1967 Buick Riviera - safe speed to drive

[Deadpurpledog]

Recently purchased 67 Riviera.  Appears to have been well cared for, however, I have no idea about total miles or even whether original 430 has been rebuilt.  I’ve driven it perhaps 5-600 miles and had it to about 70 and cruised at 65.  Are these speeds reasonable for these vehicles?  Am I pushing it and asking for trouble?  Should it be able to cruise at 70-75?  Thanks!

[Steve_Mack_CT]

With ease unless something is amiss.  Speed limits of 70, 75 were the norm when your Riv was new.

[TerryB]

With good tires, fresh quality motor oil and a reasonable safety inspection of brakes hoses and belts the car should run well at highway speeds.  We really did drive that fast in the late 1960s😀.

[Deadpurpledog]

Thanks Bill!

[The 55er]

I frequently drive my 1967 Riviera 65-75 mph on the interstates. It used to be my daily driver and will do 90  no problem. I run almost new radial tires and the car passes the annual PA safety inspection. 

[keiser31]

That car should keep up with ANY freeway speeds. they are GREAT road cars.

[philip roitman]

Car will easily drive 8o - 85 MPH and more all day long

Edited September 23, 2023 by philip roitman (see edit history)

[Pfeil]

First thing you do on a used car.

Tire date code and proper pressure and balance, Brake inspection including fluid condition, wheel bearing inspection, cleaning repacking and resetting wheel bearings. Engine condition and tune-up- when was it serviced if needed-service it, trans condition and when was it serviced if needed-service it, driveshaft/U joints -check/replace or lube. Differential, when was it last serviced, don't know? Service it. Check suspension-bushings, ball joints, play and power steering, what's the fluid smell like? change it if necessary. Check all cooling system and hoses, replace coolant if necessary. If you don't know when it was done last change the hoses and coolant.

After you do the above and you are confidant in the work, like philip roitman says " you can drive it 80-85MPH all day long " and if needed or wanted short burst over 100 would never hurt the car. 

[Deadpurpledog]

Thanks for the checklist.  Have done many. . . Not all.  Will check the ones overlooked.

[Marty Roth]

2 hours ago, Pfeil said:

First thing you do on a used car.

Tire date code and proper pressure and balance, Brake inspection including fluid condition, wheel bearing inspection, cleaning repacking and resetting wheel bearings. Engine condition and tune-up- when was it serviced if needed-service it, trans condition and when was it serviced if needed-service it, driveshaft/U joints -check/replace or lube. Differential, when was it last serviced, don't know? Service it. Check suspension-bushings, ball joints, play and power steering, what's the fluid smell like? change it if necessary. Check all cooling system and hoses, replace coolant if necessary. If you don't know when it was done last change the hoses and coolant.

After you do the above and you are confidant in the work, like philip roitman says " you can drive it 80-85 MPH all day long " and if needed or wanted short burst over 100 would never hurt the car. 

As @pfiel and @philip roitman have noted, we did drive those speeds in areas where speed limits were either non-existent, or where "Reasonable and Proper" was the  guideline - and sometimes when and where we thought we could get away with it. This applies not only to the Riviera, but a great many other and even lesser cars of the era, going back to the 1950s. This is not to say that my friends or I (wink-wink - nod-nod) would have considered such a thing.

The key consideration here is that the car IS CAPABLE. On the other hand, even on a new car unexpected things can happen-

so, could you drive at "Warp Speed"? Sure, but should you? Of course not.

On the other hand, if a 12 point buck decides to bound across the pavement, what is your option - tell him "My Riviera can drive this fast all day long?

[Jubilee]

In 1956, the speed limit on the Kansas turnpike was 80 mph

[Jubilee]

I might add on the Kansas turnpike the 80 mph limit was for ALL vehicles. Anything that paid a toll.

[sagefinds]

The 67 with the 430 was such an improvement over the previous year nailhead 401,yes put the pedal to the metal,I always did with my 67.

[Trulyvintage]

The manufacturer information

regarding design & performance 

capabilities should be available online.

 

if you are not comfortable or qualified to do a complete vehicle inspection of all systems and take it to someone you trust to do that before you attempt to drive at highway speeds.

 

 

Jim

[EmTee]

 My '67 Riviera is not even breaking a sweat at 70.  Just remember to glance at the gas gauge now and then... 

[Pfeil]

On 9/23/2023 at 7:48 PM, sagefinds said:

The 67 with the 430 was such an improvement over the previous year nailhead 401,yes put the pedal to the metal,I always did with my 67.

If I blindfolded you and took you for a quarter mile trip in a 67 then a 66 or vice versa you wouldn't be able to tell the difference by seat of the pants. 

[sagefinds]

24 minutes ago, Pfeil said:

If I blindfolded you and took you for a quarter mile trip in a 67 then a 66 or vice versa you wouldn't be able to tell the difference by seat of the pants. 

Everybody to their own opinion.

[Deadpurpledog]

Great thought, Jack.  Brakes have come a long way, haven't they?

[28 Chrysler]

Keep it below 20 MPH over the speed limit.

[c49er]

That aint no straight eigjt Dynaflow Buick...

Your 67 Rivi can easily drive 80 all day long in good condition.

It's a long trip road car of luxury.

[TAKerry]

On 9/25/2023 at 12:36 AM, Jack Bennett said:

Without splitting hairs on when it became law, and when it was lifted, remember that much of the US has had a speed limit of 55 MPH for years.

If your 67 Rivera seems to find its groove around that speed, maybe it was broken in at a constant speed of 55 MPH.

That surely doesn’t mean it won’t go faster, it just means it was broken in to think 55 MPH is a good speed.

On the other hand, if the car is a Montana or Wyoming car, it may have been broken in at 120-150 MPH, and in that case just drive like hell and hope the cops aren’t watching.

When asked how fast my 1923 DB Roadster will go, I always say “up to 200 MPH” and am always scoffowed, and told I was lying. 
So I add “down a steep hill, and it will continue going that fast until I hit something big enough to stop it”.

Going fast is easy…….stopping may be a problem, so check those brakes before moving the car at any speed.

Jack

 

My 77 trans am has a sweet spot between 60-65 mph. Settles in nice, engine low'sh rpm and will cruise with ease. Then DUH, it hit me one day that the speed limit was 55 when it was built. I suppose the engineers knew what they were doing. As far as speed goes, my brother has a 1913 british motorcycle that was way ahead of its time 'transmission' wise. New it was advertised as a 60 mph bike (which is a scary thought). At shows the prevalent question is 'how fast will it go?'  The response is not how fast, but how well will it stop? (with a wooden shoe on the back and a caliper on the front wheel, not so much!)

[mrspeedyt]

January 1974. the national speed limit. 55. well remember it and the results of it.

(and how many times i violated it.) arizona highway patrol / dps fine was $5.00 if you did 65. above that and it could add up.

Edited September 28, 2023 by mrspeedyt (see edit history)

[EmTee]

3 minutes ago, mrspeedyt said:

January 1974. the national speed limit. 55.

Prior to that, the speed limit in NY was 65 mph.  Cars in the '60s and early '70s would regularly run 70 mph on the interstate highways.

[60FlatTop]

Take a look at this guy and imagine what he thought a safe speed for his '66 would be.

 

Back in 1976 I was in the Buick dealership and saw one of the the cars badged "Limited". I asked "Do you have one that is not?"

 

I'll tell you, put on a pair of Firestone Town & Country snow tires and you can't get it over 100 anymore.

[EmTee]

19 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

I'll tell you, put on a pair of Firestone Town & Country snow tires and you can't get it over 100 anymore.

The studs start flying out at about 80... 

[Deadpurpledog]

Cruised at 70-75 this week.  Temp didn’t increase and no strange noises.  Don’t feel a need to go any faster with Riviera.

[NTX5467]

ONE or two things to ultimately consider in wondering about these things, "What was the Interstate speed limits of the time?"  Specifically in Kansas, TX, and Arizona, when the cars were DESIGNED and sold to the public.  With the design stage being about three years prior to first sales of the platform and then the designers projecting from that part as to the future of private ground travel.  Don't think that the designers and such cruised around the high speed section of the GM Proving Grounds at 60mph to determine these things, either.

 

The car's components and TIRES would have to be able of sustaining such speeds for about 300 miles solid, then doing it again for another 300 miles in the 90+ degree F temperatures of "summer travel", too.  Then, following the factory service schedule, lasting to at least 75K miles before any major powertrain work was needed.  Speed capabilities with durability.

 

"Tires", of course, were a big part of these things, too!  With generally THREE levels of cold tire inflation pressures.  The first would be the "24psi smooth ride, no load, 70mph and less road speed" recommendation.  Then would come the "high speed" recommendation of "+4psi for speeds over 70mph, then the "full-rated loading" 32psi spec (with the tire load capacity cast into the sidewall near the bead of the tire.  

 

My own personal recommendations would be "30/28" for all driving with less than "full-load-rating".  I know that sounds a bit unusual, but here's why.  My theory is that with a full-load, then the back tires need more air to support the extra weight, so with vehicle weight distribution usually being in the 55/45 f/r range the front inflation pressure needed to be a bit more in the front as that was the heaviest end of the car.  Equalizing the tire pressure to reflect "axle load" had many benefits.

 

One is better steering response and cornering as the front tires were stiffer all around.  Which also leads to better and longer tire wear (as long as the front end alignment is in specs).  So the car can be more fun to drive.

 

Having the rear tire pressure at the "high speed" level, means it is also stiffer and rolls easier.  Which relates to a better firmness in the suspension and ride, but not "too harsh".  It also ensures that the tread is flat on the road, rather than being rounded, which also results in better wear across the tire's tread width.  No wear specifically in the center (too much air for load) or the edges (too little air for the load), from my experiences with 5.5"-7.0" rim widths on 4500 lb vehicles.

 

One of the ways I prototyped this pressure differential was to turn the front wheels, side to side, with the vehicle stationary, then back if off that spot to inspect the rubber pattern on the concrete.  With 28psi of less in the front tires, there would be a light spot in the middle.  At 28psi, the patch was more consistent.  At 30psi, it was solid.

 

This pressure differential works especially well for fwd vehicles, I discovered.  One weekend, I rented a Chevy Beretta for an excursion.  When I got it back to the house, I checked the tire pressures the next morning.  It had handled decently well, as to ride and steering response, but when I reset the pressures to 32/30 (as it has P-metric radials on it), it was like going from a 6-cyl car to a high-performance car in how it drove and responded to the steering and throttle inputs.  That was with just 2psi differential, as the additional weight of fwd might need 4psi to balance things.

 

Why do the OEMs recommend lower front tire pressures?  So the front tires slip first and the driver slows down before they do something flaky or hit something.  Especially on wet roadways or worse.

 

Being that the seasons are changing and remembering high school physics about "gasses volume changing with temperatures", Check and ADJUST your tire pressures for the coming cooler weather.

 

In the current times, DO inspect the chassis for worn items and make sure all fluid levels are "to spec" BEFORE driving ANY vehicle on the highway/Interstate for any amount of time, at or above posted speeds.  Plus tire pressures.   Just good sense, to me.

 

Enjoy!

NTX5467

[telriv]

Another thing to keep in mind.

10MPH or less above the posted speed limit is speeding.

11MPH or more above the posted speed limit is wreck less driving.

With fines appropriate to such speeds.

 

Tom T.

[LarryDolphins]

Thank you NTX5467 for that very informative on tire pressures.

I get a lot of great info on this forum.

[dr914]

when I was a kid in highschool, I took my Dad's 64 on an unopened freeway (ga 400) and buried the speedo needle (140 mph instrument).  I was never an abuser of cars, but had checked the tire pressure and the fluids and eased it up to that speed!

[telriv]

I've had mine past the 140 mark a couple times.

I find it amazing how such a seemingly gradual curve all of a sudden becomes such a wide curve & it takes the whole curve ++ to a whole new dimension ++

 

Tom T.

Edited November 20, 2023 by telriv (see edit history)

[JohnD1956]

While it may go as fast as questioned, and reported, I ask, why?  When I take out one of mine, I want to enjoy the ride as long as possible.  What's the hurry?

[dship]

Never mind any mechanicals possibly failing, I don't trust my own driving skills at that speed!!

[NTX5467]

32 minutes ago, dship said:

Never mind any mechanicals possibly failing, I don't trust my own driving skills at that speed!!

Agree, past about 80mph, you kind of lose perspective of just how far the car will travel AND how far the driver needs to look ahead in ONE second.  60mph is 88ft/second.  One might feel they have "sharp reflexes", but those milliseconds for a foot to get to the brake pedal and then press on it, the car can cover quite a distance.

 

The other thing is that some chassis calibrations are tuned more toward 35mph than 75mph, by observation.  One of our non-GM cars feels bored at 70mph, but at 75mph, it breaks into another phase, with the car enjoying itself.  At 90mph, that window closes as it is not stiff enough for good control should something happen.  LIke turns and dips, much less something more hazzardous.

 

But in that 75-90mph range, everything feels really nice as the chassis and engine are in their sweet spots, as a general rule.  Past that, more throttle input needed to gain a few mph of additional speed.  It CAN do it, but takes more effort.  The power drum brakes could certainly slow things down, too.

 

Even when I was younger, I knew that it would run faster, but "why bother".  On a later model with a 4bbl on it, starting at 105mph, it had a driveline harmonic that started.  I knew it would run faster, easier, but again, "Why bother" finding out as others like it were reputed to run past 120mph (and the road test figures confirmed that).  To me, it felt good going from 20mph to 100mph in about 3/10miles, and still wanting to climb, if not for that driveline harmonic (which I never investigated as I didn't know of a good driveshaft shop back then).

 

Now, with that car (and only that car), one of my fantasies was to be on a long, straight desert highway when Springstein's "Born To Run" might come on the radio, then listen to the 4bbl suck air through the dual snorkels and the dual exhausts doing their part with the throttle "all engaged".  Still haven't got "there", but still a neat dream, to me.

 

Just some thoughts and experiences. Happy Holidays,

NTX5467

Edited November 21, 2023 by NTX5467 (see edit history)

[Zimm63]

After reading all this, I have Sammy Hagar's "I can't drive 55" stuck in my head.  

That being said, ran my 63 down the road yesterday.  Ran fine at 70.  

 

[telriv]

BUT. That's what you do when your 

YOUNG & STUPID.

 

Tom T.

Edited November 22, 2023 by telriv (see edit history)