EmTee

Members
  • Content Count

    1,958
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

Everything posted by EmTee

  1. Say Matt, I think the tires are likely the difference. I just replaced the tires on my Silverado with a used set LT 8-ply radials. The ride is notably harsher than it was with the old P-spec tires. It's a truck after all, so it doesn't bother me, but the change in ride quality was readily apparent. As an experiment, what if you temporarily swap the tires/wheels from the '40 Super to the '41 and go for a ride? That would at least tell you to what extent those truck radials impact the ride characteristics.
  2. 5 Volts at the + coil terminal seems low to me... I would expect 7 to 9 volts. Check again, wiggle the key (i.e., slightly rotate the switch back & forth) and see whether voltage changes.
  3. It sounds electrical to me. Check the voltage at the coil with the key ON engine OFF. How do the points look? Condenser?? Do you have another 'known good' coil? The HOT light is supposed to come on when cranking to verify the bulb. Could there be an ignition switch issue? It seems like there may be low voltage to the ignition, which improves at higher RPM when alternator output increases...
  4. The only reason would be to keep the dust off. I bought a cheap, universal fit flannel-like cover for my car for the same reason (just to keep dust off during winter storage).
  5. Well, technically it's not even full -- don't try that with a new car!
  6. ...including the distinctive concave rear window glass, exclusive to these two cars and one of my favorite design features of the GP.
  7. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Mar-Hyde-4-4-Ultimate-2K-High-Speed-Primer/?N=5002385+3293242368&rt=rud
  8. I recall my Grandfather had the same problem. He installed a heavy-duty caster under the center of the rear bumper. The caster would contact the driveway and prevent the bumper and tailpipe from scraping the driveway. It worked in both directions and wasn't visible unless you looked under the bumper. Maybe you could find a spot on the bumper, brackets, or frame to do something similar...
  9. That's a great picture -- the very definition of anachronism.
  10. You should be very proud of the work that you've done on your Buick! It looks great and I can't wait to see the gold paint on it!
  11. EmTee

    Spam Pie

    How 'bout some pot pie? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yugoFc79uh8
  12. If you decide to fix the original, buy the pump R&R kit and replace the pump diaphragm while you're in there. It sounds like there's a problem with the cam, or more likely the switch that follows the cam.
  13. I think I see a porthole...
  14. Does it eventually stop on its own? It should activate when you press the button and then operate for one cycle of the washer cam, then stop. It's not like newer cars which only activate the pump when the washer button is pushed.
  15. Well, I have seen them overhaul original drivetrains on that show too. In the case you cited, it literally was easier (and cheaper) to simply drop-in a 350 Chevy because they could bolt it in using Chevelle hardware...
  16. So, what does the engine code 'SN' on the build sheet mean? It does state 'BS' for the transmission.
  17. I'll say no. It looks to me like the shape of the leading edge (interface with the front bumper) is different. Even if it 'fits', it won't look right... However, if you look closely, there appears to be a filler strip on the leading edge of the '70 hood, soooo maybe...
  18. Maybe you can find something at the hardware store...?