telriv

I don't trust ANY of the electrical gauges. too many variables'. Mechanical ONLY in my opinion. Tom T.

On EVERY carb. I rebuild they ALL go through a process. Reason many of my re-builds seem to be costly. Re-bushed throttle shafts IF NEC. In MANY cases only the primary shafts need to be re-bushed. Seldom the secondary's, BUT sometimes also. Seized up throttle shafts, etc. Rusted linkage beyond recognition. Water intrusion corroding internally. EVERYONE is installed on a running/driving '64 Riv. I have & use for this process. DON'T need a problem with an overseas carb. as shipping back & forth can get to be quite costly. Ask those I've done rebuilds for & ask them/those questions & whether satisfied or not & their impressions. Tom T.

Even when new IF they sat for awhile, a week or more, you would have to crank them for awhile. Way back when they were a newer car & more than likely a daily driver so you didn't run into these problems. AGAIN, I would rather crank it over for awhile to get oil flowing RATHER than a dry start. Todays fuel with alcohol evaporates even faster with the normal heat of the engine. Tom T.

Even when new IF they sat for awhile, a week or more, you would have to crank them for awhile. Way back when they were a newer car & more than likely a daily driver so you didn't run into these problems. AGAIN, I would rather crank it over for awhile to get oil flowing RATHER than a dry start. Todays fuel with alcohol evaporates even faster with the normal heat of the engine. The cure install an electric fuel pump or fuel injection. Now we're back to the dry start situation. Which would you rather have??? Tom T.

How about shining a light in the opposite end???? May help to see inside. Tom T.

Yes John, I'm returning them. Tom T.

I just bought 2 kits from my local NAPA jobber. Are you sitting down. They listed for $187.00 + each & cost me 107.00 + each. Time for a change. Tom T.

Hoping to be there Also. Would be GREAT to meet you after all these years. Tom T.

NO, AND it is NOT replaceable as far as I know. The tube has some kind of restriction inside of it to slow down the flow of hot air or else the incoming air would not be hot enough to heat up the choke coil. One reason some replace the hot air choke coil with an electrically operated choke coil. IF the system is working correctly, is, you will feel vacuum at the source where the rubber hose connects to the top of the carb. IF everything is sealed correctly. Tom T.

On my '64 I bought new the number on the engine & the top of the cowl should match to be a numbers matching vehicle/car/engine. Example: the engine number stamped on the block in front of the valley pan, in my case, 7K1076554 is the same as on the cowl. Again: 7K1076554 Which also has the engine code of KW which relates to a '64 with a 425 4bbl engine. Hope this helps. Tom T.

Or buy one of my bolt-in NEW Mini Starters for your Nail. Problems now solved once & forever. May even cost less than having yours professionally built to high torque specs. Tom T.

TO ALL. Most ALL of these headliners start out white & are dyed/sprayed the color of your choice when ordered. On a hidden part of the headliner clean off the top layer & you will see White underneath. Just a FYI. Tom T.

I am in total agreement with Bernie. I've had my '64 Riv. since new in '64. 60 years later I still enjoy it as I did the 1st. day I drove it home off the dealers lot. Like myself we are both getting a little long in the tooth, but still ENJOYABLE. Tom T.

That component, looks to me, is a factory installed reverberator. Kinda rare. I installed a Motorola reverberator in my Riv. in '64 & it still works. Tom T.

Carl. I usually bias the grease fitting towards the bottom. Not quite center. All you are trying to do is get as much grease on the center of the ball as possible. Try not to drill in one step. Try to keep the chips from entering the cavity of the joint so there are no or very little drilling chips in the link/ball stud area as possible. Tom T.

You are correct. Thanks for catching that. My bad. Tom T.

Just a caution. Make sure the shop you pick uses the proper listing wire & NOT COAT HANGERS!!!! Tom T.

Just for information for those looking to do there own seat repair. DO NOT use coat hanger as it will shortly deform after you start sitting on it. USE THE CORRECT LISTING WIRE as it will NOT deform over the passage of time. The CORRECT stuff is cheap as opposed to other parts as are used on our Rivs. Tom T.

At least my memory is correct to a certain degree. As have been found to be somewhat true. Tom T.

To ALL with 1st. gens. Remove the center link WITHOUT destroying it. Once you have it removed turn the stud protruding 1/2 turn. This will now put the ball stud on a mostly unused/less used portion of the ball stud. Carefully drill a hole on the side of the draglink/centerlink & install a grease fitting. You are now using a less worn part of the ball stud which MAY save you some $$$. I have done it for some who didn't want to spend the $$$ & were happy with the results. I wouldn't say it's a lasting repair as it will just tighten it up better. Just my thoughts. Tom T.

AS MANY of you know I rebuild MANY of these of AFB's. I have been rebuilding them since I bought my Riv. new in 1964. As I remember the tags never had a number on them. The tags were all a certain color which denoted/identified the particular carb. that came on an original car/body. MAYBE some of the earlier AFB's had numbers on them, but not as I remember. In an answer to your question I remember they were mounted in the rear. Looking at the carb. standing looking at it from the front the screw is mounted on the right rear at the is 2 O'clock position. Tom T.

I've owned mine since new with Black interior & the headliner was & still remains Silver. Tom T.

texdave, Just add a pint of DEX111 bake fluid. Will do the same thing by swelling the seals & is less costly than the sealer. Tom T.

The rear dipstick trans. tube is normally held on by a bellhousing bolt. Tom T.

The A/C bracket bolt is a 1/4" longer. The P/S bolts are standard length & have a stud. Tom T.