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Everything posted by telriv

  1. I have been using 225/70/15 for over 25 years now. Tom T.
  2. Markus, As to your thermal problems. Since you are having thermal problems it could be the carb. since it was originally for a 350 carb. the engine is running extremely lean being it was originally for a 350 carb. Its not normally in the capacity of most to make the nec. mods besides jets & metering rods. So taking to the list Jon provided you only have a choice of two, early & late. So you need to do a little research to determine IF your vehicle is early or late. Part of the nec. info is on the tag, aluminum plate attached to the firewall, that has the build date on it. Your next question is that does this info early or late. Next is the number stamping for the actual carb. build date to match the vehicle build date of the carb. which can be up too one week or four months before the actual build date of the vehicle. Can you understand what I have said??? Tom T.
  3. Mitch, As you know I've been into the "Nails" for many years & it appears there is no rhyme or reason why some have 1" or 1 1/8h. inch bolt heads. They are both the same 3/4 bolt thread size. I agree most/many 425's are usually 1 1/8th but have come across other 425's that are 1". Tom T.
  4. Drew, Hirsch also sells the paint in quart cans. Use a foam brush to apply 1- 1 1/2 inches wide. It flows out nicely, leaves NO brush lines/marks & the can of paint will last for a long time IF you turn the can upside down. I have a quart can I've had for about 3 years now. IF the paint is thick just add some thinner. It states on the can what to use. Tom T.
  5. Bob, Funny how that works. Drive yourself crazy looking for something & it's found in the least likely place. Tom T.
  6. I buy ALL my engine paint from directly from Bill Hirsh
  7. Did this problem arise BEFORE or AFTER the installation of the U-Joint??? Tom T.
  8. Steve, The balancer bolt in most cases is 1 1/8th. inch, but I have seen them also at 1" on untouched originals. Tom T.
  9. Most of those kits that contain many parts are usually of inferior quality & will probably wear out before the old parts they replace.
  10. I believe they are. James at best offer counts has the new bushings available now.
  11. For sure that is true for the A-Body cars, but I don't think so for our Rivs. Tom T.
  12. I don't believe ANY Rivs. came from the factory with a rear sway bar. The pic that was posted is of the rear track bar/panhard rod. This bar was attached to the rear end on one side & the frame of the car on the other side. Tom T.
  13. Bill, Thank you a HUGE amount for your testimonel. As you & others have found out this is such a HUGE change in the way the vehicle rides & handles that most/many don't believe it. I can't stress enough the diff. it makes & good reports from others is justification that doing such will improve drastically from stock & will NOT detract from the stock appearance. Tom T.
  14. John, I have the track bar & strut rod bushings in Poly in stock. I mod the inner strut bushing to allow for more positive Caster. I have the front & rear sway bars also along with an "808" P/S steering box with 2 1/2 turns lock-lock. I can also get you the shocks as George supplies. The heads of those 7/16ths. x 14 bolts need to have a 5/8ths. 6 point head or else it will be very difficult to tighten with a socket or wrench. Tom T.
  15. John, Originally a '64/'65 the bolt sizes were 7/16ths. x 14. We can get your '63 Riv. to ride & handle like a new car & NOT a '63 car. Although for a 1963 vehicle the Rivs handled extremely well for the time with the way weight was distributed. The improvement is amazing & you won't know the benefit until you've done it. Ask others who have done the mods to their cars. Best part is that it DOES NOT lose it's appeal as nothing other than a stock '63 Riv. Tom T.
  16. Markus64, Use a relay that gets powered up by the resister wire. The other goes to a 12 volt source with the key in the run position. The Yellow wire for the electric kick-down is a good & close source. IF it doesn't work out for you you can just dis-connect the wire & relay & go back to the way it was. No muss, no fuss. Trying to keep it as simple as possible. Just my thoughts on the subject. Tom T.
  17. 1st. thing that comes to mind is a clogged fuel filter.
  18. Dennis, Like I said in the PM all you really have to do is drill the two holes for the '64-'65 center support. It will be excatly in line with the original bolts for the '63. The frame is thick enough to be able to perform this small mod without doing any harm to anything else. Since the ENTIRE drivetrain has been completely swapped out in essence you have a '64. Don't put yourself through the aggravation & all that may entail. Just my thoughts on the subject. Tom T.
  19. One of the very 1st. things I'd check is to make sure the vent that goes to the vent hose is not rotted out from age at the tank. Since it doesn't have A/C there is no return line to the tank for by-pass. I haven't had any problems like you mentioned & I've also owned my '64 since new. The Cat Pee they call gasoline today has 10% alcohol added to it so it has a tendency to evaporate much faster. After you've gone for a ride let it sit outside until it completely cools off then bring it into the garage to see how things stand. Tom T.
  20. Dennis, It's just two u-bolts holding the u-joint to the diff. like your more than likely seen on other cars in the past & are accustomed to seeing on other cars. Tom T.
  21. Make sure your e-brake cables retract all the way 1st. before doing anything. Tom T.
  22. I believe that started in '69-'70 when the key was mounted on the coloum.
  23. The '63 driveshaft has only one CV joint at the rear. A '64-'65 has 2 CV joints. One at the rear & another at the center support bearing before the center support bearing. The '63 center support bearing/bracket is longer & as stated the bolts are farther apart than '64-'65. The '64-'65 support is also shorter. Do a search on this forum as the sizes & bolt spacing is discussed in length. Tom T.
  24. It's supposed to put out a heck of a lot more amps.
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