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The 55er

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Everything posted by The 55er

  1. It's the "bible" of interchange for automobile & truck parts. Tells you what parts interchange with what cars, both mechanical & body parts. Certain Editions cover Certain Years. I've had these for many decades. I think they're just as valuable as a shop manual, they've saved me a lot of time & money over the years. Well worth the purchase price especially if you have multiple old cars.
  2. From the Hollander Interchange, see interchange number 481. There must be a good useable set out there somewhere. Might be helpful information.
  3. I only noticed because a friend of mine saw it and was casually following it, he thought it was a pretty unusual model of a Studebaker.
  4. Yes those were for sure the years (63-64) for rusty rear bumpers on full-size Oldsmobiles. They were poorly designed with areas that trapped dirt & moisture but then again they weren't expected to have a lifespan of over 50+ years. I used to own both a 1963 & 1964 Dynamic 88, both were good cars.
  5. I can't tell you an exact application for your particular door but I can relate what the Hollander Interchange says. The the following info for 4-dr HT rear doors. The 56 Pontiac door only fits a 56 Pontiac. The 57 Chevy door only fits a 57 Chevy. However a 57 Pontiac and a 56 Chevy door are the same and will interchange. You state you have an NORS door which means it's a new aftermarket replacement and was never installed on a vehicle, correct? Look inside the door, there is no evidence of any holes that might have once been in the door to mount some trim in the past that might help ID it?
  6. Not saying that's the case here but that "cute" Kennedy bumper sticker may be there for a reason like to hide a thin or rusted out section of the rear bumper. It's definitely a step up from the traditional three horizontal strips of silver duct tape I've seen a lot of people stick on there.
  7. If you can't find a trunk cardboard kit for your particular make & model, check out Painted Cowlboard from Restoration Specialties & Supply in Windber, PA. It comes in many colors but maybe not in the correct pattern. You can always dye it to the correct shade if necessary. Cut to fit and have an upholsterer sew an edge on it to match the original. Might be shipping prohibitive though as it comes in large sheets. I've always picked it up in person at a Carlisle or Fall Hershey meet.
  8. That's a fender top ornament with turn signal indicator that mounts above the headlight, was standard on 1957 Mercury Turnpike Cruiser converts and optional equipment on other 1957 Mercs.
  9. Someone did put forth some effort into changing the color to white inside the trunk and under the hood but did a really poor job on the door jambs. The entire firewall from top to bottom should be white. A fairly nice car but I'll bet the original seats under those seat covers are toast or else they would be showing them off in the pictures.
  10. The front bumper guards are missing and there are no pictures that show the overall rear of the car.
  11. Checking, veining, cracking is bad. Those whole areas have to be stripped down to bare metal whatever kind of car we're talking about.
  12. All of the windows look like they're broken and the glass is delaminating. I used to have a glass guy from down the street come and R&R all my flat glass that needed repaired. It cost me $100 a window (the windshield would be more) and that was 15-20 years ago. Then there are extras needed like windshield & backlite gaskets..........
  13. Search the Forum Community for "Dynaflow Cadillacs" and you'll find a lot of discussion.
  14. IMO if you don't like the color it's OK to change it to another color that was authentic for that particular car. I've done it many times. There are certain colors I just don't care for. Make sure it's compatible with the interior as well and you're good to go. Just my 2 cents.
  15. Having owned a similar (red & white) 59 Catalina Vista hardtop back in the day I feel this one's a little overpriced. It might have good bones but it's got the incorrect mirrors on it and those little stars on the sides of the rear quarters & doors shouldn't be there. The front fenders have the typical lower rust spots and the hood needs resprayed from stone abrasions (it will be difficult to match). It's got some added (emission?) hoses on the air cleaner and valve covers that it didn't have originally. In 1959 GM cars came with generators instead of alternators but I guess that doesn't really detract much. There's no spare tire and no battery hold down either and with a peeling inspection sticker it's possible the car really isn't driven very often. Make sure you lift that trunk mat and check for a solid floor next to those tire wells. Again this might be a good start for a fixer-upper but I think 8-10K might be a bit more realistic provided the mechanicals (tires, brakes, suspension) are in good working order. That figure might even be a little high but for someone in the market for a real wide-track this one's worth checking out.
  16. I always contend that it can be hard to assess the true condition of a car from looking at small pictures of it on a computer screen but I don't care much for this one. The driver's door is full of Bondo under all the paint cracks. Looking at the right side 3/4 view from the front it looks wavy in the rear of the passenger door & front of the rear quarter. The finish is cracking everywhere and a good bit of the car might have to be stripped. Plus there's a "subtle" pulsing/vibration in the 126K mile engine. The front coil springs have been cut and it's not an attractive color either for a 1960 Buick. It may be a solid car like the seller states but it looks like it's been banged around somewhat. I think the bidding is pretty aggressive for the condition of the car and the high bidder might be disappointed once he sees the car in person.
  17. Price must be top secret highly classified information and will not be made known to the general public. No price, no dice. Next!
  18. You have a great looking sedanette there. I've been driving my own 1953 Chieftain 8 quite a bit over the last 11 years. It's been one of the best cars I've ever owned and I plan on keeping it for a long time. It gets routine oil changes and tune-ups. The coolant gets changed every two years. Keeping all the 6-volt electrical connections clean is also good advice. I would say just maintain and enjoy it, those old flathead Pontiacs were fine cars. There were several in my family when I was growing up.
  19. I'd be more concerned about how the engine sounds when running than how the starter sounds when cranking.
  20. You can make sure all the connections are clean but if it still drags when hot it's time for a rebuild after 64 years of service. Electric cranking motors don't last forever. If it were mine I would have it rebuilt just for the peace of mind.
  21. Whether the sell has any experience with antique cars or not, making ridiculous statements like "After 30 years storage we installed a new battery in the car, primed the carb, hit the starter and it fired right up" is total BS (no mention of the 30 year crud that was in the gas tank). I think the seller's goal is to find some uninformed inexperienced dimbulb idiot that's in the market for an old car to sell it to. You can bet that's a lot more than 108,926 miles with the non-operational odometer as well. This is likely just another overpriced worn out old car in need of a lot of restoration work. Caveat Emptor!
  22. 1951 Kaiser Traveler 2-door production: 915 Specials, 367 Deluxes. 1951 Kaiser Traveler 4-door production: 1829 Specials, 984 Deluxes.
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