NTX5467

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Everything posted by NTX5467

  1. NTX5467

    56 engine questions..for those who know LMK

    From what I've observed others to have mentioned over the years of watching these discussions, you pretty much have to duplicate what's correct for the pre-'57 Buicks and their engines, UNLESS you do a large amount of extra work to use the incorrect model year items. Old-Tank knows the '55 Buicks inside-out and sideways, by observation. NOT book-larnin', either! Additionally, some things that might be suspected to not change between model years DID change and need to have coordinating parts to go with them . . . no mix-n-match in so many cases. On the issue of pistons, I've seen a listing for "Export" pistons for Specials. Something like a 7.5 compression ratio? IF that matters. The best way to know what's really accurate for the vehicle, with respect to GM-Buick parts, is to have the first edition of the particular model year parts book, which came out in the fall of the year for the new model year just beginning. It normally used to have a front section of parts that were new for that model year, to allow parts managers to see what new parts they might need to order. The later editions of the same book, printed after the first of the year didn't have these things. By the time the later model year books are out, the earlier cars' part listings will reflect part number changes and even part application combinations. As to the noted cylinder heads being superceded into just one part number, that seems a little unusual, to me. If the 'earlier heads were designed for the 264, I would perceive that the port sizing was good for that engine size. IF the same head could work well with a 322, then it should be over-sized for the 264 from the start, possibly. In reality, the smaller ports (IF that is the actual case) of the 264 head would possibly (with the same CR) make a bit more low-end torque response but hinder higher rpm power a bit. Which might explain why the "smaller" heads were superceded to later work on the larger 322s and nobody noticed. Back when it was starting to be fashionable to have an OHC motor, in the earlier '80s, a Buick rep was quoted as saying "For our customers, acceleration ends on the other side of the intersection." No real need for higher rpm power, typically. In the case of the particular model year where all engines were 322s, I suspect the main power differences between the Specials and the other Buick cars, other than the noted camshaft issues with manual transmissions, was due to the 4bbl carburetor, with a little help from the higher compression ratio for the higher-line cars' engine. BUT you'd probably need at least 1/2 throttle to feel any difference, in normal driving. IF you could modify the intake manifold to use the larger Rochester 2bbl (the 1.69 throttle bore size which some Pontiacs used back then), it would possibly have as much real air flow capacity as the 4bbl had . . . which would make it an incognito upgrade, of sorts. Might need a Pontiac air cleaner, which might have some cosmetic differences, though. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  2. Seems like I remember seeing them in the old JCWhitney catalogs, early ;'60s time frame. Like some of the other whiz-bang things they sold back then. WHAT design changes/features made these items obsolete on later model year Buicks? Curiously, NTX5467
  3. NTX5467

    1969 Electra, reference engine paint

    In the USA, where I ran across the Pantone chart was when we were getting some T-shirts printed for a car show I was involved in. It's also more prevalent in the sign world, too, I suspect as accurate colors can be very important in the advertising and company logo realm of things. Red was a somewhat common engine color in the '50s and '60s. Whether on particular engine options in some brands of cars to farm tractor/industrial engines. They were ALL different, although similar. And, of course, GM had spray cans of engine paint for these things, back then. Most were discontinued when that engine family/option was no longer in production. Finding a "Buick Red" paint might be tricky as I doubt that GM has licensed it to any other paint supplier to sell. Some of the normal spray paint suppliers might say it's "Buick Red", but no guarantees that it's accurate for your car. Which gets back to the "custom mix" or "close-match" situation, unfortunately. In the USA, by observation, DupliColor is the company that builds all of the current GM touch-up tube paint, for GM. It's also the main supplier of touch-up paint, period, by observation, whether with the OEM brand or their own brand on it. They also have other OEM-related colors for wheel paint and such, too. You might order up the particular DupliColor paint listed above and see how it goes. With DupliColor's OEM connections, you might see if a supplier more local to you might be able to procure it, but getting them to order a single can might be tricky, minimum order quantities being what they might be. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  4. NTX5467

    Power brake upgrade ideas needed

    Isn't somebody reproducing the aluminum drums? An Australian entity? For the street rod/roadster market? NTX5467
  5. NTX5467

    1969 Electra, reference engine paint

    Howdy. I presume your "RAL" number might be similar to "Pantone" colors? Where a particular Pantone shade is issued a standardized number that can be reproduced anywhere? One resource might be a sales brochure for your car. Many times, there were engine pictures in there, of some sort. Might not be the best resource, as the color might appear to be a little "dark". Some of the old paint books used to list engine paint formulas in them, but that was a hit/miss situation, by observation. Other than the correct shade of red, the engine paint's main function is to cove the bare metal such that surface rust doesn't happen. At the engine plants, their purpose was to just get coverage of the paint, NOT in a concours manner at all. Unless your existing color is too deep, too crimson, or too orange . . . for a red, then leaving it as is is a good suggestion. How did you arrive at using that particular color of red? Just curious. The factory engine paint was usually a basic enamel, not related to "car paint" per se. GM was using acrylic lacquer for the car paint back then. It's not unusual for the paint on the intake manifold to "cook" in the area of the heat crossover passage, on each side of the carb. Once you find the shade of paint you like, or is the most correct, then a paint store can match it for you. Single-stage would probably be the best as BC/CC paint on an engine is very much overkill, to me. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  6. NTX5467

    The Grinch

    Few people realize that GM (and others) do (or used to have) fleets of vehicles that are driven by factory reps. Parts reps, service reps, new car sales reps, etc. that use these cars to make their rounds between the dealers in their assigned areas. These fleets are usually "turned" to the OEM's dealer auctions for resale, along with their lease returns and such. Various terms, as "factory rep cars" or "brass hat cars" have been attached to these vehicles. Once, our parts rep showed up in an extended cab 1/2 ton Silverado . . . with a Borla cat-back exhaust system under it. The Borla systems were a new GM Perf Parts item, so they were using the factory fleet to use to show these systems to the dealer network. After a few months, when the mileage limit was hit, it went to the auction. Another time, our vehicle sales rep was driving a 2nd-gen Reatta Convertible. Our Finance guy took a fancy to it, so we made arrangements to get that car when it got turned in. When the lease-return cars come back to GM, they can be used to gauge durability issues. As the use of DexCool in particular, in the later 1990s, was something that was paid attention to (with regards to why some vehicles seemed to have no problems and others did). A rolling research fleet, of such. After reconditioning, then off to the dealer auctions. At one time, GM would take their year-old "fleet" of cars, completely refurbish then (tires included), then internet sale them to the dealers as "Front Line Ready". At that time, in the earlier 2000s, the Intrigues and Regal LSs were all $15996.00 and had about 15K miles on them. NOT a bad deal at that time. What impressed me was that if the car needed "H"-rated tires, it got them, for example. Everything was "to OEM production specs", when some dealers wouldn't go quite that far. A great deal while it lasted! NTX5467
  7. NTX5467

    The Grinch

    A few years ago, one of our body shop customers, out in a rural/ranch part of the state, related a situation of one of his customers. The guy had a late model Ford King Ranch HS2500 4-dr pickup truck. He was out in the pasture and got too close to a tree. Knocked one of the outside mirrors off. He came in to Jeff to see about getting it replaced. Jeff called his Ford dealer parts guy and priced the mirror. The mirror was about $700.00, for the part, plus labor and such to install it. The pickup owner thought that was outrageous! He couldn't believe it. Jeff didn't cut him any slack. "You own a (then) $60,000.00 pickup and are complaining about a $700.00 mirror for it?" After the owner got his money together, he got it fixed. Back in the '90s, a guy came in wanting to price an outside mirror glass for his Suburban. The VIN verified it was a heated mirror. That one was $150.00. He didn't know he had heated outside mirrors, which was a part of the higher-level option package. The normal mirror glass replacement was $20.00. Guess which one he bought. You can tell what's selling by the number of variations in models and equipment levels, for USA brands. In GM 4-dr pickups, there are TWO cab lengths, THREE bed lengths, and trim levels from spartan to ultra-luxury. Plenty of tech stuff, too! The larger 4-dr cab has limo-like rear leg room, with the 5.5' bed. The normal 4-dr has the 6' bed. We could probably sell every GMC Denali 4-dr Crew Cab HD2500 Duramax we can get. AND then put a 4" chassis lift on it, too! Between the $400K house, the $70K pickup, the $80K Escalade, and such, I'm not sure how everybody's financing this stuff! Much less living expenses and such. I happened upon a website for some upscale apartments in Fort Worth a while back. New, but not in a currently hot location. $3500.00/month lease. Lots of amenities and space, but $3500.00/month? They ARE close to downtown in a quieter place. Would probably mean an income of $70K/year for that lifestyle? Not sure where that's all coming from. But they are getting leased and more are being built down the street from them. In 1978, when a fully-loaded (with sunroof) Caprice 4-dr just topped $10K MSRP, I thought that was stupid. Why buy a Chevy for that price when other nicer cars could be had for similar money? A valid point, back then. And 40 years later, Cadillacs can top $100K with far more post-space age stuff than is really needed to get to the grocery store from home. "The mess" is getting worse with time, it seems. Enjoy! NTX5467
  8. NTX5467

    The Grinch

    A year or so ago, they advertised them as "The Most Tech You Can Buy for Under $20K". When they came out, the base car has a slightly larger 4cyl, but the higher level models had a small 4cyl with a turbo for about 10 horsepower more, as standard equipment on them. As things are evolving with "low speed pre-ignition" on the smaller GDI turbo motors, the base engine might have been the better deal, as the cars age? NTX5467
  9. NTX5467

    The Grinch

    We live in a more diversified world now. City dwellers (as in NYC) pay huge amounts to park cars for their apartments/condos, etc. They don't need to really own a car. Public transportation, if it works for them, usually works fine. Others pay the price and own a car. Being car-less has benefits and also some "crimps in style". If you need to go out of town, a car rental company can do that for you. You buy their LDW (or have a credit card that does the same) and enjoy. If you live in the TX panhandle, you need either a 4-dr pickup truck, SUV (of any size), or a smaller car that's big enough to not get blown off the road by a big truck. If you live in Dallas or Houston, or similar, and head out to the country every so often, but mainly stay in town or in populated areas, then a Volt or similar might work. IF you live in a "Home Depot World", then you need something to make trips there. A 2010 Impala will easily haul 6' lumber, as will the earlier ones, too. Put the rh frt seat laid back, and you can to limited amounts of 8' lumber, too. But few people know that. Plywood or bulk lumber, get a pickup truck with an 8' bed. Or a Dodge Magnum. Or a used minivan and remove the seats? Self-driving cars work as long as the GPS mapping system works! A few years ago, we got GPS "surveillance" on our work vehicles. I was watching it as I was in a more remote rural area near a major lake. The road I turned onto was a two-lane "park" road, which connected to another state highway. That Park Road was not on the GPS map, so the image on the unit showed me just turning off the main road and going out into uncharted territory. How many times have we heard of people getting lost in the desert or mountains by relying on GPS directions? Even at this advanced date, more work to do in the non-metro areas. Volvo announced a year ago that their next-gen of vehicles would be hybrid or full electric, probably for this reason. The unrealized truth is that GM, as a global entity, will soon need more electric-tech vehicles in Europe as larger cities have been banning gas/diesel vehicles of a certain age from their inner city locations. Paris, France is one. Others will follow. On the "sedan" issue, just not enough room to haul "stuff", even for a college kid who changes apartments every so often and doesn't want to hire a moving company. Obviously, a Chevy Sonic or similar might sell better in NYC than in OKC, but an SUV of smaller proportions can go "everywhere". Consider that the Chevy Eqiunox is one of their best selling CARS, over the past few years. I have a female cousin who's a single mother. She moved back to "west of Pyote, TX" to help oversee the care of her mother. She bought a smaller Hyundai "sedan" for the gas mileage. Then she managed to have a tire problem "out there, on the road". Had to call a tow truck as the car had a can of Fix-A-Flat and not spare tire. She traded it for a mid-size SUV and is happy with the added security of some kind of spare tire in it. She's willing to give up a few mpg for that security and larger size, too. So, as some cars have gotten too small for many people's use, 4-dr pickup trucks have gotten too TALL and expensive, existing "sedans" can't really fill the needs of a typical customer, as they used to do. So that leaves the Chevy Equinox/GMC Terrain size of vehicles that can work for them. Mpg has improved a lot, too. Small cars aren't as cheap to buy as they used to be. A Chevy Malibu can cost almost as much as an Impala used to cost, say pre-2015. Why buy the Malibu unless you needed something that size. I suspect that many opted for the larger Impala with basically the same mpg and "a few dollars more" MSRP. The success of the new Chevy Colorado surprised many, including FORD. Ford has the Mustang and their F-150s. BUT they will be coming out with a new mid-size SUV-style vehicle. Smaller than an Explorer, possibly between the Equinox and Traverse, to fill the void between 'stangs and "trucks". Chrysler had to discontinue their mid-size 200. Too much competition from the import brands who were "already there" in that segment. Not that the 200 and similar Dodge were not good vehicles, they were in a very tough market segment that USA brands had previously shown much weakness in. Sometimes, it seems that some car magazines wield too much "weight" in what cars sell and don't sell! The #5 or #6 cars are still good cars, and will work for many customers who have a good dealer in their area, but everybody looks to the #1-3 cars instead, when considering which one to purchase. In reality, many of the cars which GM will delete were vehicles that, in their last redesign/update, got too expensive compared to what they replaced (Impala, Cruze) or were not well-conceived with "tech" that wasn't right for that segment (CT6 and its innovative body construction AND expensive tech, even with a turbo 4cyl in a CADILLAC?). And, thiere will be some companion vehicles, too. Which leaves Cadillac with CTS and Escalades? I strongly suspect that the vehicles which GM comes out with will have both autonomous and manual driving versions. They could be just physically smaller than the current Impala, but roomier inside with some carrying capacity cargo space. I know we all hate to see the Buick Lacrosse leave, but one of its companions is the Impala and XTS, I believe? But to me, that particular car was not executed very well. What, you say? When I first sat in one, when they first came out, I was surprised how narrow the passenger compartment was. My right leg was against the console! The car just was not as wide inside as its outside size might indicate. A 4-passenger car. Well, maybe 4 normal people and a kid in the back? I will admit that the last versions looked nice, but that interior width, and lack thereof, combined with a not very user-friendly way to change the radio controls, worked against it. The later verisons where everything would go through the touch screen were probably better than the earlier models. Possibly too much infotainment for a typical Buick owner? As sales of the smaller Buick SUVs set records. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  10. NTX5467

    Spam Pie

    We needed that!
  11. NTX5467

    Spam 🥧?

    In the original Charles Phoenix website, there was a picture of a medium-sized group of party goers getting ready to dive into a buffet of sliced Spam "pie" on a serving dish. There was a long thread on the "Spam Pie" subject. Lots of other neat pictures (with cars) from 1960s Los Angeles in that old website, too. Seems like SPAM was an ultimate convenience food, in an era before "cold cuts" had proliferated? A while back, I got some Underwoods "potted meat" at the store. Not even enough in there to feed a finicky cat! But I remember it had a lot of buzz about it in the '60s? Now, wondered what the real buzz was about. LOTS of flavors of SPAM, now . . . NTX5467
  12. NTX5467

    How would you fix this car?

    Tolerance of "cost" probably should be in the "Should it be . . . " discussion, too? I know that "anything can be done, for a price". As I look at the cars I have accumulated (and I drove for years), I'm now wondering if "fond memories" might be best? As long as they go to an appreciating home. Perhaps this is an "advancing age" situation? NTX5467
  13. NTX5467

    Bet you've never seen one of these!

    Interesting! Never knew of a stretched wagon. Probably the fastest 6-door car this side of a Grosser Mercedes limo, circa 1969. Thanks for the link. NTX5467
  14. NTX5467

    Any one else watch Perry Mason?

    Thanks for posting that video, Bernie! Neat stuff. Always watched Roy and Dale, back then. NTX5467
  15. NTX5467

    Any one else watch Perry Mason?

    IMCDb listings certainly seemed "restricted", for some reason.
  16. NTX5467

    Any one else watch Perry Mason?

    Well, as it seems, my memory of Perry's cars was not as good as I thought! I first looked at the IMCDB.com website and found a "search" for "Perry Mason". Lots of information, there. But the ultimate car list of the first three seasons was at www.perrymasontvshow.com , click on "The Cars". Apparently Paramount put out a 3 DVD set of the first three seasons, somewhere along the line. The '57 Ford Fairland 500 Skyliner was listed, as were similar '58 and '59 models (all three years of production). There was also a '57 Buick Special convertible. But there were also '57-'59 Cadillac Series 62 convertibles in that mix, too! Paul Drake was in a '57 Corvette, then a '57 T-bird, followed by his seemingly constant '58 T-bird convertible. There was a nice article at MeTV - Chicago on the "Cars of Perry Mason". Same content on another website, too. In the '65 model year, there was a light blue Lincoln convertible, which was reputed to be stripped in the show. One of the color episodes. Some interesting stuff out there! Google "Perry Mason Cars" and lots of stuff comes up! Enjoy! NTX5467
  17. NTX5467

    Any one else watch Perry Mason?

    Around the time of Y2K, I got off work at midnight. At that time, there were THREE sets of Perry Mason re-runs on at that time of the morning. That's when I saw him with the '57 Ford Skyliner, in black. In the later '50s, there were some shows that were moving advertisements for GM cars. Tragg was in a black Buick Special 2-dr sedan. Perry and Della showed in in one scene in the Cadillac convertible. The "good guy gone bad" was in a '56 Pontiac. It also seems like the '59 episodes were where Paul Drake started driving T-birds? 1962 had Perry in an Electra 225 6-Window Sedan, I believe. Then Lincolns after that. Always liked that show. Justice was always done, even if it looked like it wasn't going to happen. "Expert Witnesses" were really experts, by observation. Never did read the books, just watched the tv shows. The cars weren't bad either! NTX5467
  18. NTX5467

    How would you fix this car?

    Don't know that I'd want to rely on the solidity of a big tree, personally. It might have been appropriate from the middle '50s, in some cases, but no real reason to risk doing something that can't be reversed in this day and age of laser measurements and modern frame tables. I would highly suspect the rear frame rails are bowed somewhat, plus the rear crossmember (at the rear of the frame) would be deformed, also (as expected). From there, look at the kick-up over the rear axle and look for any changes in the radius of those curves. Even flaked paint/dirt, as evidence of something moving. Then inspect the body mounts under the rear seat area, for bolt angles and evidence of the rubber mounts moving, of late. IF the rear doors still open and close well, plus being in alignment, that's probably as far as the energy was dissipated/absorbed. Then inspect the deck lid gap at its front area, under the rear window. Any bowing of the deck lid upward? If it still opens, look at the deck lid hinges and mounting area for deformation. What about the trunk floor and related fuel tank mounting/retention issues? I'd strongly concur about a parts car, probably one with the front end crashed and the rear of the car still good. I'd lean more toward getting the frame issues assessed and then worry about getting the sheet metal taken care of. As the frame is moved back into place, some hammer/dolly work on the metal could happen at the same time? Of course, having a "new" deck lid to put into place as all of this is going on would be good, too. Deck lid hinge work could be variable, unless the complete hinge was swapped with the parts car, too. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  19. NTX5467

    Power brake upgrade ideas needed

    There are some street rod power boosters that do fit under the floorboards, BUT from reading Beemon's posts and that of another person in Germany, there are clearance issues under there. I believe that Beemon ended up with some later model wider drums from a salvage yard on his '56. There should be some threads in here on that. I'm curious if a GM Hydroboost system might be adapted? A maze of pressure hoses, that would be hard to hide. Especially with an existing power steering system! NTX5467
  20. NTX5467

    Ethanol damage after 4-1/2 years

    My comments were in reference to oil change intervals from "short trips" and/or engine operating temps that are too low. No more, no less. If I remember correctly, the '56 Buick uses a 160 degree thermostat? Rather than the 180 degree version? If it does use the 160 as normal equipment, is that to catch any engine heat rise before it gets too high? Will the "better alloy mix" in the Nailhead's cast iron better tolerate the allegedly greater cylinder bore wear at the lower temps than other brands with lesser alloy blends, which need a 180 degree thermostat to minimize cylinder bore wear? The reason I mention the cylinder bore wear issue is that back in the "76 time frame, a friend wrote to Edelbrock about ways to get more power from his '64 Ford 352, including using a cooler thermostat for more power. Vic wrote back that engine wear increased using the cooler 160 t/stat than the normal 180, so to use the 180 for the best results. Using my recent experiences with the GM OLM to indicate that (sooner oil changes with lower engine operating temps, below the 180 degree level, with a 195 degree thermostat). If the engine temp is not high enough for long enough, the oil needs to be changed sooner. The computer on my '2005 Impala proves that, too. NTX5467
  21. NTX5467

    Ethanol damage after 4-1/2 years

    Yes, and even a malfunctioning thermostat, which is open too much of the time, resulting in lower operating temperatures. Like only 1/4 gauge rather than 1/2 gauge, which triggered the "Change OIl Soon" message (and a related "Check Engine" light code, earlier) at 3000 miles instead of longer, as it had been doing. NTX5467
  22. NTX5467

    Ethanol damage after 4-1/2 years

    Agreed, a drain plug has to function to be useable. Might be better to attach a pump to the fuel line where it attaches to the fuel pump? The common suspicion that if the coolant is hot, everything else is too. Only thing is that oil temp takes much longer to get to that coolant temp level than you might suspect. It's got to get at least that hot to cook out the condensation it has accumulated (through no fault of its own). Starting the engine for a few minutes, to let the oil pressure come fully "up", to move the other fluids around, probably won't put enough heat into the coolant/oil to really negarively affect things. Nor build enough heat for the oil to drain off too quickly. But condensate will happen somewhat anyway, just with temp swings, I suspect. Remember the old oil change "severe use" maint schedule? Trips under 10 miles at a time? Change the oil sooner, as a result? In reality, many people were under that recommendation and didn't realize it. In the moderate-sized town I grew up in, all of the main stuff was within a 2 mile radius from the house. 10 miles at a time would have been "out of town". NTX5467
  23. NTX5467

    Ethanol damage after 4-1/2 years

    Yep, seems that the two fuel tanks that started to seep had perforations on the bottom of the tank, not the top. The first one had a patch brazed onto the outside, by the radiator shop. The other one, I took a larger sheet metal screw, a piece of rubber, and some sealer. I put the screw through the rubber, applied some sealer, plus a larger washer under the screw head for support, then installed the screw into the main seep perforation. Tightened firmly, not too much. Both of these were done in the later '70s. No problems or seeps after that. NTX5467
  24. NTX5467

    Oil change noises

    (break) . . . er you mean "stop it"?
  25. NTX5467

    98 lesabre White wall question

    Always best to buy tires away from the repro tire vendors, so the price stays more reasonable for what they're being used for. The tires that can still be had in whitewalls are usually toward the lower end of the current product rankings, compared to the "top line" tires. BUT even at that, they are probably better tires than what came on the cars when they were new. I believe that the last whitewall radial that Michelin built was the Symmetry radial whitewalls, but that was nearly 20 years ago, now. The Hankook H724 whitewalls have had some favorable comments in other forums that I look at. NTX5467