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Everything posted by NTX5467

  1. "No stinking dwell meter"?? In an old service manual I saw years ago, it mentioned that the way to adjust the points on a GM "window" distributor was to raise the metal cover, insert an appropriately-sized Allen wrench, turn the wrench one way (with the engine running!) until it mis-fired. Then turn it the other direction until it mis-fired again . . noting the number ot turns of the wrench between the mis-fire points, then turn the wrench BACK from the second mis-fire point, but only 1/2 the number of total turns. THAT would be the correct point adjustment, they claimed. With the dwell m
  2. The OTHER issue would be that "they should have expected an old hose and NOT treated it like it was a 3 year old car". NTX5467
  3. There was a 2-dr coupe concept car that appeared just after the 4-dr Avenir concept. It was designed by two younger new-hires with the approval of their supervisor, "on their own time". It could easily have been produced on the existing Camaro platform, too. It would have made a great halo car, far better than the Avenir could have been, I suspect AND use an existing platform to boot! As GM's "mind" was obviously "somewhere else"! But, like the Avenir, it was "Don't expect it to happen". I suspect those two designers are now somewhere else? With one great, production-ready co
  4. Guess that means "she's a classy lady"? NTX5467
  5. If needed, be sure to use an adequate transmission fluid cooler in front of the radiator! Probably a magnetic temp sensor on the trans oil pan, to monitor atf temp, keeping it below 270 degrees F, which is where atf starts to break down. If you're concerned about torque capacity, the '65 401 DFs would probably be better than the 1955 versions. NTX5467
  6. Before you do any additonal wiring, you might first get a factory wiring schematic and look at the voltage feeds for the fuel gauge circuit. On my '77 Camaro, it seems that the volt gage and the fuel gauge work off of the same voltage feed. If the voltage on the volt gage is not correct, the fuel gauge reads lower. Might be something similar with the instrument cluster lights on the earlier cars? Usually, there's a ground on each side of the front and rear lamp harnesses. Start with them. Then look at the bulkhead connector for gunked-up terminals, which you can clean for bett
  7. Do those point sets have the little vial of point grease with them? Hopefully not dried-up from age? Any particular place you generally find these NORS items? NTX5467
  8. Most coil springs have a "top" and "bottom" and in many cases, the "bottom" as to correctly engage with the lower control arm/mount area. Probably moreso on the front than the rear? As mentioned above, do NOT tighten any rubber bushing without the car sitting on the ground and at ride height. You can put them in an pretty much snug them enough to keep them in place, but NO final torque with the car suspended and the wheels dangling. When the bushing get its final tightening, you want the bushing to be in the center of its pivot/travel, which it should be when the car is on the g
  9. How about "prevailing torque" threads? Designed to so the same as lock washers under the screw heads, but without using them. GM used that situation on exhaust manifold-to-pipe studs/nuts in the 1990s. On the nuts, they were "squashed" a bit or had a 3-way pinch. On the studs, the center threads were not as deep as the outer threads, for that "interference fit" action. Just make sure the gasket and sending unit are in the correct place BEFORE you do the final torque on the screws. So you don't have to remove the screws once everything is all torqued. I suspect the
  10. I believe that Old-Tank's "Buick Restorer" section might have an installation of an electric booster pump on his '55 Buick? NTX5467
  11. IF the original pipes connected via a "ball joint" connection, "ball" on one side, "socket" shape on the other side, then NO gasket was needed, just tighten the two flanges with the bolts. IF the ball has some corrosion that will not clean up with a file, then Walker makes some "muffler cement" that might fill in the low spots and seal when things are tightened. A somewhat common way to do things, even on mid-'60s Chryslers. If the ball-side is too far corroded to seal (even with the fiberous cement), then head down to the paarts store and ask for an exhaust donut for a '80s-'90s
  12. In some truck-based driveshaft slip yokes, at the cap end of the yoke (the cap screws onto the yoke itself, as a part of it), there usually is a felt "seal" backed by a white-type plastic backing plate. Usually about 1/8" thick or so. It and the felt have corresponding splines cut out of them, so they slip right over the splines easily. Not sure of what's supposed to be inside the torque tube mechanism, but what you describe (and its location) seems to coincide with the plastic seal-backer I've seen in the new (older model) slip yokes. Might look for it in the Buick parts book u
  13. I would suspect that the gauge will come with its appropriate sending unit and universal wiring. Key is to determine where you will be mounting it and if the size of their sending unit will be coincide with available mounting possibilities on your engine. What is wrong with your current gauge set-up? Might be best to purchase a quality infra-red contactless "heat gun" to coincide with calibrating your current gauge to actual thermostat housing temps? Those are easy to find and read in body "F" and "C" temp ranges. Doing things this way might be less expensive and easier to do i
  14. 1968 New Yorker hardtops (2-dr and 4-dr) had strainless steel lower moldings. Not exposed paint for the world to see, below that lower body contour. Hardtops only, according to factory litersture at www.hamtramk-historical.com . The C-Pillar vinyl insert is probably colored to complement the body color, not to match the interior color, I suspect. IF the wheel change was done to use more-obtainable 15" tires of the correct size, that's one thing. But some 15s6 Magnum 500s would have looked better. Nice car with lots of options. NTX5467
  15. I might be incorrect, or not totally correct, but in order to receive those (or similar from any other vehicle brand), a dealer had to add the name to a mailing list (which the dealer funded) to Buick to receive the magazine. Which is why these or similar publications can be so difficult to find. The "subscription" usually went for a year or two, then mysteriously ended. This was all funded by a particular dealer, not the corporation OR customer. Many went to businesses as an advertising venture for the dealer, I suspect. Doctors' offices, beauty shops, and other places they would be seen
  16. Am I seeing that flange held together with spot welds??? Rather than the continuous "stitch" weld of an '80s OEM fuel tank? If so, no wonder it is seeping fuel. IF the new tank has the same thing I think I'm seeing, it'll probably be no better than the one you have. BUT considering the issues with welding on a tank that's got fuel fumes in it, get the "warranty" tank and then take it to a radiator shop that also fixes gas tanks. Get them to put some interior sealer in the tank and then pressure-test it. Or see if they can braze that seam to completely seal it, which ever migh
  17. I guess "Park" still works? NTX5467
  18. I see a high-tech transmission holding fixture, there, too. NTX5467
  19. BUT . . . how long before it went away? Ours was pretty much gone by the time the sun got up, much less some later-sleepers. NTX5467
  20. A long time ago, when premium multi-grade motor oil was about $1.00/qt, I decided that to get all of the old oil out of the pan (as on most pans, the drain plug is slightly above the bottom of the oil pan), that after the main draining was almost done, I'd then pour an extra quart of new oil into the engine, to flush out that last bit of used oil. A small investment in a complete oil change, I thought. Then, when the last strings of oil are almost done, the drain plug would go back in and the normal amount of new oil would be added. On vertical-mount oil filters, I'd also fill them and let
  21. I walked out the door last night about 9:45 and saw white, fluffy flakes falling. Just enough to cover the grass and put some on the cars. Temp indicator on the LeSabre said "33". Now, this morning, it's leaving slowly at 7:45am. Just on the eastern fringes of what happened. Enjoy your first day of the New Year! NTX5467
  22. Get out the vinyl LPs and the portable stereo phonograph with the fold-out speakers for that New Year's Eve garage celebration! With some "red Solo cups", for good measure. Happy New Year 2021, NTX5467
  23. Presuming the new spark plugs and ignition points have the correct gaps? Just checkin' NTX5467
  24. On hydraulic-lifter engines, sometimes an extended drain period will allow air to get into the oil galleys, which may not fully purge/escape when the oil filter floods the system again. Earlier 1970s Chevy 454s had such an issue, even on a normal oil change. Noisy lifters that would not quieten down quickly. The factory fix was to put a .020" hole in the two screw-in, front oil galley plugs for the hydraulic lifter galleys. The holes let the air out and also provided some additional lube to the upper timing gear and timing chain. Initially, a TSB was issued and the particular galley plugs
  25. Perhaps not in the oil filter per se, as many filters now have a silicone anti-drainback flapper valve in them. The pressure relief valve in either in the oil pump or, in the case of the spin-on-oil filter Chevy engines, the housing the filter screws onto. When you look at the filter prior to installation, if you can see "rubber" just belot the ojuter ring of holes in the mounting plate, that's the anti-drainback valve, usually. The pressure relief valve is there to keep from blowing uo the oil filter when higher rpms out more flow into the system than the filter media can flow.
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