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Everything posted by NTX5467

  1. Might look in the Buick factory service manual for that model year? Pictures of the fuel lines/system? I'm suspecting they are the spring-loaded bands or Corbin-style clamps rather than the worm/screw type? Just some thoughts, CBODY67
  2. I put "GM TSB 01-06-04-011" into Google and it brought up a Cadillac Forums posting listing which had the 5 page GM TSB reproduced there. Other listings for some other specific car forums too. Enjoy! NTX5467
  3. As far as the main frame-to-body bolts go, perhaps a circular direction of torqueing them down might be better than center-to-one-end, then center-to-the-other-end? That way, everything goes "center-to-end" all at once, in about three torque levels. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  4. Funny thing is that while several GM cars had electric air pumps, the ONLY one to generate a GM TSB about the headlights dimming for a split second every time the pump came on was the Olds Intrigue. I did happen to experience that one night in an Intrigue I'd rented. One of those "Did I see that happen" kind of things . . . blink and its gone . . . things. Never did figure out how they wired the Intrigues differently, or if just the Olds drivers noticed those things. NTX5467
  5. Thought maybe it was an incognito tap on a maple tree . . .
  6. I once had an issue on one of my cars after installing an electronic ignition kit. After finishing, I started it 4 times in a row. No problems, but the next (5th) time there was nothing. I had volts everywhere, but no start. Got a new starter relay and it did not change anything. In looking at all possibilities, I looked at the battery terminals and cable ends. Nothing really wrong, but I did spy the edges of a thin coating of gunk between the terminals and battery posts. Got out the wire brush post cleaner, cleaned both side of things on both terminals. Put it back like I found it and the starter worked and the engine ran again. End of problems. Apparently, that thin layer of accumulated gunk between the terminal ends and the battery posts would allow volts through, but no amps? I later discovered that on modern systems, dirty terminals will knock the system's volt output down about 10%, fwiw. Just my experiences, NTX5467
  7. From what I understand, the rubber fuel line material was upgraded in 1992 to handle the then-new Reformulated Gas (RFG), which included more ethanol in it. Later versions should be able to handle the current E10 fuels, I suspect, or higher ethanol contents. BUT . . . remember that ethanol is "a cleaner of oils", so might check the lines for seeps every year or so, while also keeping fuel in the lines (running the engine every so often). It will deteriorate the rubber lines from the inside outward. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  8. Search these forums for "Carb King" and send him a PM of what you need. NTX5467
  9. There are also a few "come to you (or a shop)" mobile services that do computer re-flashes and such. Elite Electronics is one, I believe? Might need to inform them of the TSB and such, before they come. I don't recall seeing that particular TSB. If you remove the air pump, unless you plug the rh and lh manifolds for the air pump exhaust manfold items, you'll need to remove the rh and lh AIR manifolds from the respective exhaust manifolds, remove the injector sleeves in the exhaust manifolds, and screw plugs into the resulting 8 holes? Or at least that's the way "people" used to do it. Otherwise, "exhaust leaks". Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  10. FWIW, there used to be a thread in here that has pictures of older Buicks pulling house/travel trailers. There were some of the later-40s cars, as you have, too. Looked like the older cars had truck tires on them rather than the normal "car" tires. I would certainly suggest an aux transmission cooler for the DynaFlow, if it is an automatic transmission car. Trailer looks good hooked to that Buick! NTX5467
  11. For the Electra, get them in white . . . but I somewhat doubt they'll clear the rear wheel opennings on the Electra. Be sure to get a 40V jack and impact to go with them! Oh, don't forget to get one wheel/tire for the spare! Enjoy! NTX5467
  12. After looking in www.rockauto.com for '57 Buick shocks, finding only rear ones, I then looked at 1958 Buick shocks, for which there were front and rears. In EACH case, the shocks fit lots more vehicles than just Buicks! So, the question becomes "What makes the '57 and '58 front shocks different from each other?" "What would it take to adapt '58 front shocks to a '57 front suspension?" Just some curiousities . . . NTX5467
  13. Wiring shorts are not heat/cold dependent, but wiring connectors might be marginally-connective during certain temperature events. "Chafed wiring", where the insulator has been rubbed away over time due to the wire vibrating against a metal part, might be operative, too. Bulkhead connector terminals are usually "out of sight, out of mind", but CAN cause some electrical issues as their terminals can corrode over time. Start at the generator and work outward from there. Just need a simple test light to check continuity of the circuit(s) involved, but knowing how many volts "where" can be good too. Take your time when you can devote a few hours to this quest, in an unhurried manner. Being methodical, efficient, and focused can be good orientations in diagnosing things of this nature. Of course, a good OEM Buick electrical schematic (Hometown Buick?) can be good to have! Please keep us posted, NTX5467
  14. What are the choices available? Of course, a matching set of 4 would be good, hopefully "HD". Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  15. (Any updates since returning from Auburn?)
  16. Back then and well up into later decades, GM sold the ducting as "roll goods" rather than already cut to length items. There were probably about two or three different sizes to cover all of the models. Under the orientation that should a replacement be needed, some sort of pattern would exist from the particular vehicle which could be used to determine the length of the tubing. Some vendors might have lengths already "cut to fit", but GM never did supply it that way. As all of the parts book illustrations were "to scale", some approximation of the tubing length might be made using the sizing of the heater box to relate to the tubing length? Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  17. There's no denying that the car LOOKS like a '55 Buick, which is good. There's no denying that the current and prior owners sought to remake that car in what they desired to have, BUT . . . the heart and soul of the car are definitely NOT '55 Buick. The smoooth-riding chassis of the '55 Buick is long gone, as is the beloved torque tube and DynoFlow transmission and Nailhead engine. In the times when that "1950s car" was designed, produced, and sold, EACH GM brand had their own identity which went far deeper than just sheet metal and paint (as modern vehicles tend to not have in the same degree). NO generic corporate engines, transmissions, chassis calibrations, or styling. Things which gave them their "flavor" and differentiated them from the other GM cars and also those of their competitors from other manufacturers. Things which made a Buick a Buick, a Chevy a Chevy, or a Ford product a Ford product. And, in so many "street machine" (as this is a post-war vehicle) situations, it is THAT part which has been changed. In many ways, the vehicle is more modern (with the add-on modern a/c system being one example) and is what many consumers would now expect from a vehicle, but that original Buick "feel" has been lost, too. As good as the THM700 might shift, it is not the same as the CVT-like smoothness of the DynaFlow, but with better torque multiplication or "more gears" of the modern transmission. The "Chevy" 502 RamJet motor certainly has lots of torque, in numbers and the ability to lay rubber, but it lacks the feel of "Buick Torque" which complimented the DynaFlow and otherwise smoothness of the torque tube/coil spring chassis. Torque numbers on a dyno sheet are one thing, how it pushes you back in your seat from off-idle to highway speeds (and beyond), the "feel", is what makes the Buick powertrain unique. In more recent decades, it's what makes driving my 2005 LeSabre feel so effortless when compared to my 2005 Impala with the Chevy 3.4L V-6. Just 20 horsepower less in the Chevy V-6 compared to the Buick 3800 V-6, with the same gear ratio in the transaxle, but as soon as the throttle is cracked on the Buick V-6, it MOVES and keeps on moving effortlessly until Interstate-level velocities are reached. To me, what I'd like to see is somebody do similar changes to a 1955+ Buick using a Buick 430, 8L90E GM 8-speed automatic, full electronic engine controls (with EFI), with the necessary torque-tube eliminator kit, and some nice HD shocks and f/r sway bar upgrades. Additionally, electric power steering and upgraded disc brakes, and a well-integrated a/c system. Then package all of that to look like "it came that way" in 1955-1962. Then add some Buick chrome wheels and modern rubber of your choice. I like and appreciate what many people do with their 1955+ cars to modernize them. It's far easier, usually, to install modern powertrains (with appropriate fabrications), something you MIGHT buy parts for at the local chain auto supply, BUT I also better-appreciate it when a builder/owner seeks to do the same things with the NATIVE powerplant-famlly engine under the hood. BUT that's just me. As Old-Tank has/is proving with his '55, getting the engine machined correctly during a rebuild, doing it "right", then adding modern lubricants into the mix, along with an upgraded roller timing chain, might well result in an engine that would run for over 500,000 miles with no breakdowns. Reason I say that is that, as the verification of "cylinder wall hone marks" on Old-Tank's motor proved, if I can get 625K miles from my '77 Camaro 305 engine (with a roller timing chain set at 92K) that far, the superioir metallurgical mix that Buick used in their blocks and heads back then, a Buick 1950s Nailhead might well be a "forever engine". Making sure that the particular combination of things happens correctly, can be a contributing factor, though. I, too, chose the same brane of 20W-50 motor oil as Old-Tank did when I changed the oil in my Camaro at 3000 miles, back in late 1977. I'm NOT going to condemn those who "street rod" 1950s vehicles, as it kept that vintage vehicle from being a crushed block of sheet metal for recycling, appreciating the costs they went to to do what they sought to do, but sometimes I wish for a greater desire to retain MORE of the original vehicle's identity in what they did. As in keeping this vehicle more "in the Buick family" in how things were done. Or similarly "in the family" for other vehicle brands. FWIW Just some thoughts and experiences, NTX5467
  18. You can also put them on the outside of the pan, where they won't be knocked off. Also, somebody in the racer area used to have circular ones that would stick to the outside of spin-on (engine) oil filters. NTX5467
  19. What about adding the magnets into the inside of the oil pan, as OEM did?
  20. Transmission production codes will also relate to the vehicle's "as produced" rear axle ratio/tire size combinetion, too, not just the internals. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  21. (PINT of atf). The question might be "How close to full were those levels prior to the trip?" NTX5467
  22. Thanks for the description. When the car does not want to accelerate, with the added throttle, does the engine labor or does it rev too-freely before any vehicle movement happens? Probably best to get the vehicle to a competent automatic transmission shop for a look-see, possibly one that is reasonably close by. A shop where they are more attuned to the older 2 or 3-speed automatics, although most of what they might see are the "gazillion-speed" newer ones. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  23. There are TWO switches on the SP transmissions, as I recall. Many times, both on the carburetor, for vehicles with a "rod" throttle linkage (i.e., not a cable). One switch is on the idle side and the other switch is on the WOT side of things (which might also double as the Kickdown switch on THM400s?). When the car is at hot, base idle, the "front"/idle switch is activated. This puts the converter in what might be termed "high stall" position, for less creep in gear and less load on the motor, as a result. When the accel pedal is depressed a certain amount, that switch is deactivated and the converter then goes into "low stall" position, for a tighter throttle feel and more efficiency in power transmission. When the throttle reaches WOT/kickdown, the rear switch is activated and the converter then goes back into the "high stall" position for a bit more torque multiplication and power. The reason I term it "WOT/kickdown" is that on a THM400, which has an electric kickdown function, the switch might do both? In reality, the differences in the torque multiplication between low stall (about 1.9?) and high stall (about 2.6?) might not make that much difference in throttle response unless you know what you're feeling or not feeling. Reason is that normal torque converters usually had a 2.0 torque multiplication and maybe up to 2.2, back then. IF you have the ST300 2-speed automatic, then the differences might feel greater, with the 1.76 low gear ratio, I suspect, but the car would still move decently well, just not quite as well as it would with the SP working correctly. ONE thing which is not usually considered in an older automatic transmission is "valve body seepage" between the circuits. Which can cause two holding units to partially apply together, when one should not be applied. To fix/diagnose this, a competent transmission shop would be needed. Usually, though, this is most apparent when a shift is made, as in the normal 1-2 shift, not on initial "breakaway" activities. Some other issues might be the rear axle ratio on the 2bbl car vs the 4bbl car, with the 4bbl car possibly having a lower ratio than the 2bbl car, as 2bbls were usually geared for highway fuel economy. The difference between a (2bbl) 2.56 and a (4bbl) 3.08 would make the 4bbl feel better in normal driving, for example. First thing would be to get a test light and check the continuity of the idle and WOT switches at the carb location, to verify their correct operation. Might also check the wiring going to and from the transmission connectors, too, plus checking the integrity of all of those electric plug-ins. Then go from there. Is the transmission fluid still a deep crimson color with a pungent smell? Or has it darkened with a more-burnt smell? Just curious. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  24. Grease??? From motor oil or atf? I discovered than an oil-base cleaner works well at disolving such accumulations under one's finger nails. Natural-source sun tan oil works, too! Enjoy! NTX5467
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