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Everything posted by NTX5467

  1. It seems that almost EVERY, or at least MANY, automatic tranmsmission mechanics seem to know some trick or something that is supposed to work and make things work better. Sometimes, from trusted mentors, sometimes from trial/error, and sometimes from heresay. In ALL CASES, the factory service literature should be the DEFAULT mode UNLESS they are especially versed in "DynaFlow-ology". Which also means what changed with each model year and knowing what one is looking at when they see it. That's been my observations over the decades of my being around cars and people who work on them, no more
  2. Remember, too, that what we used to consider "good" now appears to be "sluggish". With most of the modern cars now having 6+ speed automatics, the low gear for them is something like 4.5-4.9 ratio, rather than the approx 2.45-2.52 of 3-speed auomatics. Much less the old PowerGlide's 1.76 "low" gear ratio! Having that much torque multiplication in a lighter car with "less engine", plus drivers in a genrally more-hurried demeanot these days . . . modern traffic just moves faster, aided the the "launch" ratio of the modern automatic transmissions. DO check the adjustment of the sta
  3. The late David Corbin happened upon a Self-Shifter Buick at a swap meet in Arlington, TX years ago. Turned out the car was sold about 65 miles south of Arlington, when new. He traced the car's history, which was amazing. BUT he also researched the history of that transmission, also used in Oldsmobiles (with rear leaf springs to asborb the shift-shocks, a key reason many more Oldsmobiles were sold with that transmissions than Buicks). From what I recall David saying about the three years of production of the Self-Shifter, he might have some differences to discuss with the author of that art
  4. Your BKF sounds a lot like C-L-R, as to removing rust, water stains, etc. There are several YouTube comparisons on how good the Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic "wax" is, compared to competitors. Even it appeared to be the underdog in a few contests, it always ended up winning in the end. I put on my new lawnmower and it looks great. Works on the cheap reading glasses I bought at WM, too! Seems like there's a dedicated wire wheel brush that somebody sells? Or a similar foam cone, that goes onto an electric drill. Might need protective gear to use them? Will the
  5. Interesting! What would the ads "say"? Considering the price of custom work, would these ads be attracting younger people (in this case, "younger" might be <45 yrs old, respectfully) or just more BCA members into a particular niche of the BCA? Granted, there always have been many great customized Buicks over the years, since George Barris cusromized his first Buick. Just curious, NTX5467
  6. Don't forget to re-bush the rear suspension parts, too. Especially the track bar. Enjoy! NTX5467
  7. Seems like the "1" in a city address, was the main post office for that city? In areas with only ONE delivery zone (as in smaller towns), there was no number between the city and state. As time progresses, telephone area codes have increased in number as each code apparently can only include so many numbers. With these increases in phone numbers, the geographic area of the larger area codes shrinks. Notably so as things progressed in TX. NTX5467
  8. Might a bit of fancy, super-temp lube on the appropriate items allow the use of a smaller bar and less emissions? NTX5467
  9. You can follow Stoneberg's thread for a guide of how a "factory-look" kit can be done. Or you can do an aftermarket-for-when-the-car-was new a/c kit, which would have been an under-dash unit, which would be easier to do and usually gave good results. Of course, you'd need the bracketry to mount the modern a/c compressor to the engine, and all related plumbing under the hood. At this point in time, even a complete OEM system might be advisable if you are going to chase show car points and such, but a well-engineered/finessed after-market system that works well, with readily-availa
  10. For good measure and accuracy, drive the vehicle, of possible, about 10-15 miles on the highway before starting the diasnostic/tear-down operations. Check for off-idle hesiations/sags, lean surge at 50mph or so, how eager things tend to happen, etc. Making sure the powertrain is at full operating temp BEFORE any adjustments are made can be important. Just because the coolant temp gauge says they coolant is up to temperature, does not mean that EVERYTRHING in the engine is full to operating temperature, stabilized, too. Just some additional thoughts, NTX5467
  11. You can do the "cylinder balance test" via the shadetree method, by making sure that each of the spark plug wire ends, either at the distributor or at the spark plug, can be easily disengaged from the cap/plug easily to check for the rpm drop with that wire unplugged. Which ever one is easiest to do. Just make sure to not be close to the car body when you pull the wire off! Or with a heavy rubber fender cover between any part of your body and the car's metal. As the spark can try to jump to ground, even through YOUR body. Such things can give the operator some extra excitrement/jumps, by
  12. On ANY factory 2x4bbl set-up, there is a primary carb and the secondary carb. In normal driving, the primary carb is what runs things AND has the automatic choke on it. Looks like you have TWO carbs with automatic chokes, there! The secondary carb will have an idle speed and mixture screws on it, I suspect, to keep fuel flowing into the engine to help ease the transition into when the secondary carb comes into play. With, as mentioned, a progressive linkage that engages the secondary carb past about 1/2 throttle, typically. Check the carb numbers to ensure you have t
  13. The other side of the "arcing" deal is to not cut the drums, as a matter of course, unles there is a reason to. As if a slight metal-to-metal situaon happened. Especially if there were no brake pulsations present. In any event, getting the new shoes "bedded-in" is very important for best performance and lining life. It's not hard to do, just a bit lengthy sometimes. Key thing is that you don't knowlingly get into a situation where a full panic stop is necessary before the process is completed. Seems like some of the main name brands of brake shoes used to state that
  14. I suspect you'll have to seek out a shop that still has a means to machinme brake drums. Which might also lead you to some truck service shops. Many big trucks still use drum brakes. As with disc brakes, the resulting surface finish of the friction-contact area of the drum will need to meet a particular smoothness spec. Being machined, regardless of how well or fine the finish cut might be, there will still be some roughness and the spiral cutting pattern that will need to be re-suefaced before teh drum will be useable and not grab when the friction material touches it. Finding
  15. In the realm of non-wide whitewall titres, as widths from the mid-60s, I came across some interestring things a few days ago. I downloaded the Hankook Master Catalog for 2020. Hankook nad previously had a few lines that had the .75" in wide (or so) whitewalls as a matter of course, even a few 14" sizes. But they seemed to vanish when that model line was replaced by a newer-orientation product. BUT, that apparently has changed! There new Kinergy ST line now has some whitewalls in the mix, 15" sizes and their Optimo H724 line is full of whitewalls (with the narrower tread widths
  16. When ever an OEM comes up with a different and interesting color, we never really know why. One thing that has been hidden from normal view is the "Fleet Colors" for some vehicle brands. I discovered this in the 1980s in the Chevrolet Dealer Order Guide. In the very front, where new information normally went, would be a page-chip chart of "fleet colors", colors used by natoinal fleet accounts (only available on vehicles these major customers might order, to prevent mistakes in ordering as they had their own order codes. It took a sales volume of at least 1000 units, or there-abouts, to get
  17. NO intention of hi-jacking this thread, but to Bhigdog's homeless comments . . . over the past 10 years, there have been many large non-profits formed in Dallas, TX and a few other large metro area to help address the issue, especially homeless veterans. Help, job search counselling, AND a stable address they can put on a job application. And it has been working, but just too many potential applicants. Homelessness also extends into the ranks of high school students, who sleep/live in their cars and have a part-time job. Seems like there were about 50 such students, locally, a
  18. Possibly thinking about Kelsey-Hayes wheels rather than the Kelsey Tire Co (Goodyear repro tires)? Just curious . . . NTX5467
  19. "NEW Texas weed killer" Pour concrete pads/roads/driveways on top of them. NTX5467
  20. Considering this is in a Buick, be sure to have some empty hi-ball glasses to catch the ice with. A non-alcholic beverage of choice ready for addition. Maybe some sparkling mineral water from the TX Hill Country? NTX5467
  21. In many cases, instrument panel illumination seems to decrease with age due to dust accumulation on the internal reflectors and the lights themselves. A simple dust-off/cleaning CAN make more difference than suspected. Plus ensuring that any wiring harness connections are clean, too, to reduce voltage absorption before it gets to the light bulbs. One other issue with LEDs is the shape of the light itself. How the emitters are arranged, such that a uniform light results, rather than highly-focussed/targeted. The more recent versions seem to be better than the earlier ones in thi
  22. In the realm of :slots" or "holes" in the bearing for oil-feeding purposes, the slot would be preferable as it would allow more gradual "pressure spikes" of oil to the bearing area. But for the demands these engines typically had placed upon then, probably NOT a big deal either way. The other deal is that such differences could have been a VISUAL identification of which engine got what parts on the engine assembly line. Especially if the journals might have been different diameters. It could also be that when the service manual for that model year was being configure
  23. LOTS of weight slinging around in that engine!
  24. LEDS? Gonna need sunglasses to drive at night? Glad to see the project is progressing nicely! NTX5467
  25. Cast iron will crack/shrink with age. Be sure to use some "heat washers" under the bolt heads so a bit of movement is possible during hot/cold cycles. Some of the stainless steel "end locks" can work, too. Conventional wisdom usually indicates "nailing tings down tight", but that's usually when the cracks happen, by observation. NTX5467
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