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NTX5467 last won the day on April 9 2016

NTX5467 had the most liked content!

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About NTX5467

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    Sr Mbr -- BCA 20811
  • Birthday 12/25/1951

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  1. IF the original pipes connected via a "ball joint" connection, "ball" on one side, "socket" shape on the other side, then NO gasket was needed, just tighten the two flanges with the bolts. IF the ball has some corrosion that will not clean up with a file, then Walker makes some "muffler cement" that might fill in the low spots and seal when things are tightened. A somewhat common way to do things, even on mid-'60s Chryslers. If the ball-side is too far corroded to seal (even with the fiberous cement), then head down to the paarts store and ask for an exhaust donut for a '80s-'90s
  2. In some truck-based driveshaft slip yokes, at the cap end of the yoke (the cap screws onto the yoke itself, as a part of it), there usually is a felt "seal" backed by a white-type plastic backing plate. Usually about 1/8" thick or so. It and the felt have corresponding splines cut out of them, so they slip right over the splines easily. Not sure of what's supposed to be inside the torque tube mechanism, but what you describe (and its location) seems to coincide with the plastic seal-backer I've seen in the new (older model) slip yokes. Might look for it in the Buick parts book u
  3. I would suspect that the gauge will come with its appropriate sending unit and universal wiring. Key is to determine where you will be mounting it and if the size of their sending unit will be coincide with available mounting possibilities on your engine. What is wrong with your current gauge set-up? Might be best to purchase a quality infra-red contactless "heat gun" to coincide with calibrating your current gauge to actual thermostat housing temps? Those are easy to find and read in body "F" and "C" temp ranges. Doing things this way might be less expensive and easier to do i
  4. 1968 New Yorker hardtops (2-dr and 4-dr) had strainless steel lower moldings. Not exposed paint for the world to see, below that lower body contour. Hardtops only, according to factory litersture at www.hamtramk-historical.com . The C-Pillar vinyl insert is probably colored to complement the body color, not to match the interior color, I suspect. IF the wheel change was done to use more-obtainable 15" tires of the correct size, that's one thing. But some 15s6 Magnum 500s would have looked better. Nice car with lots of options. NTX5467
  5. I might be incorrect, or not totally correct, but in order to receive those (or similar from any other vehicle brand), a dealer had to add the name to a mailing list (which the dealer funded) to Buick to receive the magazine. Which is why these or similar publications can be so difficult to find. The "subscription" usually went for a year or two, then mysteriously ended. This was all funded by a particular dealer, not the corporation OR customer. Many went to businesses as an advertising venture for the dealer, I suspect. Doctors' offices, beauty shops, and other places they would be seen
  6. Am I seeing that flange held together with spot welds??? Rather than the continuous "stitch" weld of an '80s OEM fuel tank? If so, no wonder it is seeping fuel. IF the new tank has the same thing I think I'm seeing, it'll probably be no better than the one you have. BUT considering the issues with welding on a tank that's got fuel fumes in it, get the "warranty" tank and then take it to a radiator shop that also fixes gas tanks. Get them to put some interior sealer in the tank and then pressure-test it. Or see if they can braze that seam to completely seal it, which ever migh
  7. I guess "Park" still works? NTX5467
  8. I see a high-tech transmission holding fixture, there, too. NTX5467
  9. BUT . . . how long before it went away? Ours was pretty much gone by the time the sun got up, much less some later-sleepers. NTX5467
  10. A long time ago, when premium multi-grade motor oil was about $1.00/qt, I decided that to get all of the old oil out of the pan (as on most pans, the drain plug is slightly above the bottom of the oil pan), that after the main draining was almost done, I'd then pour an extra quart of new oil into the engine, to flush out that last bit of used oil. A small investment in a complete oil change, I thought. Then, when the last strings of oil are almost done, the drain plug would go back in and the normal amount of new oil would be added. On vertical-mount oil filters, I'd also fill them and let
  11. I walked out the door last night about 9:45 and saw white, fluffy flakes falling. Just enough to cover the grass and put some on the cars. Temp indicator on the LeSabre said "33". Now, this morning, it's leaving slowly at 7:45am. Just on the eastern fringes of what happened. Enjoy your first day of the New Year! NTX5467
  12. Get out the vinyl LPs and the portable stereo phonograph with the fold-out speakers for that New Year's Eve garage celebration! With some "red Solo cups", for good measure. Happy New Year 2021, NTX5467
  13. Presuming the new spark plugs and ignition points have the correct gaps? Just checkin' NTX5467
  14. On hydraulic-lifter engines, sometimes an extended drain period will allow air to get into the oil galleys, which may not fully purge/escape when the oil filter floods the system again. Earlier 1970s Chevy 454s had such an issue, even on a normal oil change. Noisy lifters that would not quieten down quickly. The factory fix was to put a .020" hole in the two screw-in, front oil galley plugs for the hydraulic lifter galleys. The holes let the air out and also provided some additional lube to the upper timing gear and timing chain. Initially, a TSB was issued and the particular galley plugs
  15. Perhaps not in the oil filter per se, as many filters now have a silicone anti-drainback flapper valve in them. The pressure relief valve in either in the oil pump or, in the case of the spin-on-oil filter Chevy engines, the housing the filter screws onto. When you look at the filter prior to installation, if you can see "rubber" just belot the ojuter ring of holes in the mounting plate, that's the anti-drainback valve, usually. The pressure relief valve is there to keep from blowing uo the oil filter when higher rpms out more flow into the system than the filter media can flow.
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