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NTX5467 last won the day on April 9 2016

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About NTX5467

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    Sr Mbr -- BCA 20811
  • Birthday 12/25/1951

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  1. By observation, after the 1977 B/C-car re-designs, chassis components tended to become more "corporate". Much more so than at any prior time. The 1969 Chevy B-car with the F41 suspension package was one of the first "big cars" to use f/r sway bars, to great success. Almost all of the "Radial Tuned Suspension" packages of 1975 had rear sway bars on the B/C-cars. Station wagons, with their great proportion of the vehicle weight on the rear wheels, are a little different than the sedans with close to a 55/45 f/r weight split. The rear bars were used to decrease underste
  2. One other possibility of "no fit" is the way the rear lower control arms are angled between the body and the rear axle. I recall that Buick had changed a few things on the front suspension geomety for '70, so they might have changed something on the rear side, too? Each division had their own orientations of how to do things, back then, even some things most might not consider or sonsider to be "all the same". Enjoy! NTX5467
  3. You'd probably need to do some research in a Buick parts book, which was printed in about '70 to see what the part number was. Reason is that each GM division had their own section of the number spectrum staked out. IF the number is in the Buick section, it could be "Buick only". If it's in the Chevy spectrum, then interchange possibilities exist. BUT also understand that each divsion, back then, did their own suspension tuning. It might be that the bars will physically interchnage, but have different diameters. The other thing to look for in the parts book illustrations is ho
  4. "Passionately addicted"?
  5. The issue of finding someone who already KNOWS what they are looking at when they look at an older vehicle needing repairs/maintenance gets more real as time progresses, generally. Not that anybody can't learn, but who wants to pay lots of money for somebody's "schooling" on both parts and how to install them? Many "modern" techs can tend to rely upon YouTube DIY videos and such to determine how to work on things. Just as some dealership techs will call "Tech Assistance" for how to fix things and what parts to order to do it (usually a laundry list of parts of which few are reall
  6. I suspect the Modified market is more driven by people who want modern mechanisms in an older car they like the styling of. With the orientation that "modern iron" is more reliable than the older stuff. Possibly driven by the popularity of OEM-style crate engines/transmissions. Something the younger buyers can associate with and know how to work on themselves. I also suspect that most are done in higher-end shops that can also do full restorations, so it all comes out looking OEM-correct and such. Shops which probably charge over $100.00/hour for what they do. THEN, "do the math" to see
  7. In general, putting "hard seats" in cylinder heads is not a real issue, BUT in a NailHead Buick, the machine work gets touchy due to the location of the water jacket relative to the valve seat area. As in "very close", close enough that a bit of miscalculation in the depth of the machinework can "strike water". Consider, too, that the new seats are "interference fit", which can put more stress on an already thin area of cast iron in each combustion chamber. AND that's if there was no "core shift" when the particular head was cast! Some model years/engine sizes might be more critical in thi
  8. Considering that our ethanol'd fuel needs a bit richer jetting for its optimal a/f ratio, I think I'd just play with the base timing, check the vac advance amount, and letr that be the extent of things. Thanks for the info! Enjoy! NTX5467
  9. One other thing is that for "high altitude" vehicles, there used to be some guidance in the carb section of the service manual about adjusting the main jeet sizes downward at particular elevations to prevent a richer mixture. Model A Fords sold in CO used to have higher mechanical compression reatios to help combat the thinner air "up there", from what I've read. Some of that loss might be regained with a bit more initial timing, as one old-line service manager mentioned once. A bit of trace rattle upon acceleration at 1000' elevations, but not as he got into the higher altitudes
  10. If you don't already have one, get a timing light with a dial on the end of it. So you can use that dial to adjust the flash of the timing light to measure the running advance in the distributor, vacuum and mechanical, at idle/1500/3000 rpm levels. Only THEN will you know what's happening and how much. There should be some specs somewhere online for what your vehicle had from the factory, which you can compare to what you have. What was the orig application for the distributor you now have, determined by the 7-digit number on the side? IF the vac advance unit is afte
  11. Heat transfer from the engine itself can be an issue, as can air flow OVER the engine from the radiator fan. With the size of the carb float bowl having a secondary influence. An example would be that in the middle 1980s, when the OEMs knew that some sort of fuel injection was coming in 1987 (as with GM in particular), there had been "hot fuel handling" problems with many Camaro/Firebird V-8s which had not really had any problems before that. Chevrolet put out several TSBs to address this issue. Magazine letters in Chevy enthusiast magazines noted marginal improvements afterward
  12. The electric pumps used to be run via a key-on wiring hook-up, as I recall. Similarly, could be run via a tee-in engine oil pressure switch and relay, too. Several ways to do it. Including what Old-Tank linked to. Enjoy! NTX5467
  13. I believe that ThermoTec has some tubular heat insulation products that do more than "shield" a particular section of the tubing. But you also have to consider the "heat gain" from other sources the tube/fuel pump/carb are attached to . . . on the engien and all the way BACK to the fuel tank. Consider, too, that liquids under pressure have a higher boiling point than liquids under a partial vacuum. The volatility of the fluid can accentuate the latter. In earlier designs, putting the pressure toward where the fluid will end up made sense and could lessen possible fire damage. P
  14. Best of luck! These things were usually received by the dealershi[p from Buick, watched, then "archived" and later discarded when the next versions came in as "old news" by that time. IF they were used at all! As mentioned, eBay might be the best place to look. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  15. Guess that engine was wanting some attention as it sat there, all alone in the chassis, while the a/c stuff was being done? Now it's getting the kind attention it has desired for a while. Ought to merrily hum along when its back to normal! NOW, the next question will be "What oil to use in it to protect the cam/valve listers?" Another thread? Thanks for the updates and pictures, NTX5467
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