NTX5467

Possibly if you give credit from where you found the image (i.e., "Not my image, from the Internet" and add the web address), you might not have issues to deal with? Seems that much of the Internet is considered "public domain"? Plus a blub about removing anything the owner might not approve of. NTX5467

Personally, we know that the particular vendor had to get the HEI from some place, as they normally don't build such, just re-sell other people's stuff. Which is why I wondered what was so special about that item. The HEI, like any other GM distributor, can be re-curved as needed. Add an adjustable vac adv can and that part is covered, too. Their dialogue is pretty flowery. The stock HEI GM coil will fire a .075" gap, with good plug wires, or even a bit wider. Put a good aftermarket module with that and things are better than factory. Yet the prior points systems would fire a .040" plug with no issues. Which makes the only reason for an electronic ignition the reliability and spot-on timing of each plug firing. Which the various levels of Pertronix can supply under the stock ign cap. IF you wire it inconspicuously, nobody's the wiser. In theory, if you add a Pertronix unit, use some good OEM-look magnetic-suppression plug wires, and add Iridium spark plugs into the mix, that should make an "Ignition system for life". As modern OEM Iridiums should last between 100-150K miles. Even the prior "single-Platinum" OEM plugs were rated at 50K mile change intervals. Provided the fuel system doesn't have some richness issues. At 3K miles/year, how many years would that be? Enjoy! NTX5467

How much different are the electronics than any other replacement HEI unit? Looks pretty normal to me. NTX5467

The Turbo 200s were bad about the lock-up switch failing and the cars stalling every time they came to a stop. About a $30.00 switch at that time. Sold lots of them in the 1990s. NTX5467

My observation has been that the number stamped on the sensor is to match the gauge upper limit rather than the ohms max. Seemed to correlate to me as being "pressure". FEW people understand "ohms", but they know about "pressure". BTAIM I've found factory gauges (of any brand) to be two things. Accurate enough and "for reference". BUT you have to check them to see what they are doing! Happy Spring! NTX5467

The letter(s) after the rim diameter and width specify the style and height of the outer rim edge. Might find a tutorial/explanation in Wikipedia? NTX5467

I suspect the sender might be a "will fit, looks like it will fit" rather than what it really needs. You might go into www.rockauto.com and input your vehicle information for a new sensor (what GM calls it) and see if any of the markings on the unit match the part numbers of the brands RA has in their product listings. Not an exact situation, but about the only thing I can think of except using a manual gauge to verify your readings. No banging should be the ultimate result. In some cases, the part number is stamped on the hex where the threads are, or at least the max psi for the gauge calibration. Might need a mirror or use your phone to get a picture, carefully. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

If it is an electronic-controlled transaxle, there could be a pressure switch on the valve body that is not working. Usually, each "gear" ahs a pressure switch to shift into the next gear. Need to see a competent transmission shop for such things as "some disassembly required" for that repair. Plus a new fluid and filter. If it is a non-electronic shift transaxle, then it could be a governor and/or valve body issue. Again, "some disassembly required" by a competent transmission shop. Regards, NTX5467

Although they were all 3.8L displacement, there were several generations AND some generations where they were pretty much a completely different motor with about the only parts interchanges were motor oil and gasoline. All "3800s" were balance shaft motors. NTX5467

IF you can remove the door trim panel, you can get already-keyed cylinder pairs from RockAuto or similar for about $15.00, which is much less expensive than a locksmith will do the deal, by a long shot. On the glove box door, in that cyl, there should be only about 1/2 the number of tumblers in that cyl. So using that as an easier to get to cyl to cut the key only gets you half way there. But it can verify which letter-code key blank to use. I suspect you are using the keyless entry remove to lock and unlock the doors? Just some thoughts, NTX5467

@Smartin, thanks for your consideration and work on this subject. Thanks, also, to all who contributed to the final outcome. My observation is that y'all have done well. Willis Bell 20811

Looks pretty good, @Smartin. Might there be some way to reward those who kept the Nailhead rather than using a different GM motor? Just a thought, which might celebrate "Buick" more than "GM". Take care, Willis Bell 20811

I know that carb kit prices have increased a bit, depending upon the source and quality thereof. I can understand an increase in labor rates, to an extent. I can understand environmental issues with cleaning fluids. For THIS price, I would expect above perfection. Even a full re-cast with all design issues fixed and finessed beyond perfection. Even a stainless steel sleeved power valve bore and thick secondary air valve cam! Neither of which are mentioned! QJets have always been more expensive to rebuild than an AFB, but that price can get close to TWO NEW AFBs. Wonder what he pays his employees, to justify those prices? NTX5467 NTX5467

That hot soak re-start issue would have depended on where it happened. Phoenix in the summer, probably. Phoenix in the winter, probably not. Even with the gas the car was designed for, when it was a "used car" or over 1 year old. Pumping the accel pedal just put fuel into the intake manifold, not "gas to the carbs". NTX5467

"Barefoot polishing"?? (Gasp!!) No flip-flops which are "garage only"?