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NTX5467

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NTX5467 last won the day on April 9 2016

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  • Birthday 12/25/1951

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  1. IF you add some shims, DO ensure that the car is on verifiabley FLAT ground, as in on an alignment rack or similar. Otherwise, any small imperfections in the level of the surface might affect where and how many shims might be needed. BUT if none were there, with no evidence of any having been there, then none will probably be needed. Still tighten things down on level ground, for good measure. Enjoy! NTX5467
  2. Might look in the Buick factory service manual for that model year? Pictures of the fuel lines/system? I'm suspecting they are the spring-loaded bands or Corbin-style clamps rather than the worm/screw type? Just some thoughts, CBODY67
  3. I put "GM TSB 01-06-04-011" into Google and it brought up a Cadillac Forums posting listing which had the 5 page GM TSB reproduced there. Other listings for some other specific car forums too. Enjoy! NTX5467
  4. As far as the main frame-to-body bolts go, perhaps a circular direction of torqueing them down might be better than center-to-one-end, then center-to-the-other-end? That way, everything goes "center-to-end" all at once, in about three torque levels. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  5. Funny thing is that while several GM cars had electric air pumps, the ONLY one to generate a GM TSB about the headlights dimming for a split second every time the pump came on was the Olds Intrigue. I did happen to experience that one night in an Intrigue I'd rented. One of those "Did I see that happen" kind of things . . . blink and its gone . . . things. Never did figure out how they wired the Intrigues differently, or if just the Olds drivers noticed those things. NTX5467
  6. Thought maybe it was an incognito tap on a maple tree . . .
  7. I once had an issue on one of my cars after installing an electronic ignition kit. After finishing, I started it 4 times in a row. No problems, but the next (5th) time there was nothing. I had volts everywhere, but no start. Got a new starter relay and it did not change anything. In looking at all possibilities, I looked at the battery terminals and cable ends. Nothing really wrong, but I did spy the edges of a thin coating of gunk between the terminals and battery posts. Got out the wire brush post cleaner, cleaned both side of things on both terminals. Put it back like I found it and the starter worked and the engine ran again. End of problems. Apparently, that thin layer of accumulated gunk between the terminal ends and the battery posts would allow volts through, but no amps? I later discovered that on modern systems, dirty terminals will knock the system's volt output down about 10%, fwiw. Just my experiences, NTX5467
  8. From what I understand, the rubber fuel line material was upgraded in 1992 to handle the then-new Reformulated Gas (RFG), which included more ethanol in it. Later versions should be able to handle the current E10 fuels, I suspect, or higher ethanol contents. BUT . . . remember that ethanol is "a cleaner of oils", so might check the lines for seeps every year or so, while also keeping fuel in the lines (running the engine every so often). It will deteriorate the rubber lines from the inside outward. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  9. Search these forums for "Carb King" and send him a PM of what you need. NTX5467
  10. There are also a few "come to you (or a shop)" mobile services that do computer re-flashes and such. Elite Electronics is one, I believe? Might need to inform them of the TSB and such, before they come. I don't recall seeing that particular TSB. If you remove the air pump, unless you plug the rh and lh manifolds for the air pump exhaust manfold items, you'll need to remove the rh and lh AIR manifolds from the respective exhaust manifolds, remove the injector sleeves in the exhaust manifolds, and screw plugs into the resulting 8 holes? Or at least that's the way "people" used to do it. Otherwise, "exhaust leaks". Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  11. FWIW, there used to be a thread in here that has pictures of older Buicks pulling house/travel trailers. There were some of the later-40s cars, as you have, too. Looked like the older cars had truck tires on them rather than the normal "car" tires. I would certainly suggest an aux transmission cooler for the DynaFlow, if it is an automatic transmission car. Trailer looks good hooked to that Buick! NTX5467
  12. For the Electra, get them in white . . . but I somewhat doubt they'll clear the rear wheel opennings on the Electra. Be sure to get a 40V jack and impact to go with them! Oh, don't forget to get one wheel/tire for the spare! Enjoy! NTX5467
  13. After looking in www.rockauto.com for '57 Buick shocks, finding only rear ones, I then looked at 1958 Buick shocks, for which there were front and rears. In EACH case, the shocks fit lots more vehicles than just Buicks! So, the question becomes "What makes the '57 and '58 front shocks different from each other?" "What would it take to adapt '58 front shocks to a '57 front suspension?" Just some curiousities . . . NTX5467
  14. Wiring shorts are not heat/cold dependent, but wiring connectors might be marginally-connective during certain temperature events. "Chafed wiring", where the insulator has been rubbed away over time due to the wire vibrating against a metal part, might be operative, too. Bulkhead connector terminals are usually "out of sight, out of mind", but CAN cause some electrical issues as their terminals can corrode over time. Start at the generator and work outward from there. Just need a simple test light to check continuity of the circuit(s) involved, but knowing how many volts "where" can be good too. Take your time when you can devote a few hours to this quest, in an unhurried manner. Being methodical, efficient, and focused can be good orientations in diagnosing things of this nature. Of course, a good OEM Buick electrical schematic (Hometown Buick?) can be good to have! Please keep us posted, NTX5467
  15. What are the choices available? Of course, a matching set of 4 would be good, hopefully "HD". Just some thoughts, NTX5467
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