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seeholmes

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About seeholmes

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  1. Can anyone show me photos of the side cables on 1 '61 convertible? I need to figure out where they attach on both ends. I put the top down half way, can see the pockets on the top , but cant figure out where they attach.
  2. I need to have my heads redone on my 61 364 Nailhead. Any shops in SoCal with Nailhead experience that anyone knows of? CH
  3. I had a chance this morning to do some testing. It seems like my issues come on at a certain engine RPM. This is true even in Park or Neutral. If I'm idling in park (17 Hg vacuum). I take it up to 3000 RPM (This is around where I encounter the drive-ability issue on the freeway). I let it return to idle and its extremely rough running (2-5 Hg vacuum). If I then slowly take the RPM up to say 1200 it smooths out and then will idle as before (17 Hg vacuum). Can this be transmission related being that it happens in park? I'm at a loss. My ignition system is pretty fresh meaning Pertron
  4. Very Interesting. Thanks for the input!
  5. What I mean is that it takes more throttle to produce power. It doesn't slip any more than before. Another way to put it was there is more parasitic loss in the transmission than before.
  6. Got it nice and hot on my way to work and the level is a bit high. I can pull out a pint and try again tomorrow.
  7. Just changed the pan gasket/ high and Low accumulator seals as well as drain the TC and changed oil. The old oil was sorta burnt/ brown looking. Not sure how long it has been since changed. The screen was really clean, as was the inside of the pan. It ended up taking 10 quarts (would've been more but the jack angle left some in the TC) After the change I noticed a slightly higher load in general. Slightly less power. I slight ping under load going up hill. Bear in mind I was jetted slightly lean on the primary before but it never pinged under load. I went one stage more rich on th
  8. Im doing a transmission oil change and when i was cleaning the pan i see what looms like a little seal where the filler pipe goes. I thought it was just a flare fitting. Can anyone confirm if there is a seal between the pan and the filler pipe? Its a 1961...
  9. The front of my car is pretty bouncy. I replaced the front shocks with some cheap Pep Boys shocks and it road exactly the same. Im wondering if there are better shocks for this car or perhaps my springs could be bad? Anyone have suggestions? Thanks
  10. Just to circle back on this issue and what I've found/done to address. While inspecting the exhaust for damage I started wondering how well the single exhaust can perform with my 364. The exhaust had 1.75" Y pipe to 2.25" intermediate pipe to an OEM style muffler. This should be a maximum of 400 CFM. That seemed close to the 375 CFM intake I was getting from my "primary only" carb arrangement. I decided to do a 2" dual system with higher performance mufflers (still fairly quiet). The difference in power is astounding! I immediately hooked up the secondary side of the carb, re-tuned metering r
  11. ST400 from 64-66 Buick is what you want. You will need a crank bushing, flexplate, new starter, different driveshaft, move the trans cross member. Also need to figure out how to switch the electrical switchpitch as compared to the mechanical dynaflow. Then there is the shift linkage also as the dynaflow pattern is P-N-D-L-R and the ST400 is P-R-N-D-L1-L2. Also I assume the spedo gear would need to change to get accurate speed. Ive considered this swap a few different times but keep ending up with keeping the dynaflow. Its a big part of the cars "personality". If your set on switchi
  12. https://www.gener-nator.com/ Give this guy a call. He hand makes whatever you need. I have used his solid state regulators on multiple vehicles. They are very reasonably priced. You can send him one to be modified or he may have that model on hand. I have send him NOS GM regulators in the past, just depends on how particular you are in how it looks. Cheapo parts store regulators make excellent donors if your not concerned with originality. All the guts will be replaced anyway. Hope that helps. Craig
  13. The exhaust is still the OEM single. Funny you should mention it, Im considering doing a new dual exhaust system this weekend (at a local exhaust shop). As far as the trans linkage goes, the switch pitch is hooked up to engage per the user manual. The rod starts moving at about 70% throttle and is full range at 100% throttle. I think I would have been much better off had I selected a 500cfm but I keep hearing that nailheads love big carbs. In some respect Im sure thats true but with a giant car and a dynaflow maxing out at about 4300 rpm I doubt a huge carb is doing me any favors. On my 31 M
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