seeholmes

Not sure if you ever got an answer on this but that part is a repair part (aftermarket) to repair a broken reverse band anchor. The factory anchors had a history of breaking and causing reverse to be inoperable. That metal part wedged into the reverse band snd made it work again.

I recently lost reverse in my 61 dynaflow. As suspected the reverse band anchor broke. I picked up a repair kit which is essentially a small steel plate that locks the anchor side of the reverse band. Im having a difficult time getting the anchor, lever and strut to stay connected while I install the valve body. The lever wants to drop and then the whole assembly is disconnected. If anyone has done this repair and has any advice please share. Thanks, Craig

It has a notch in the housing like it should gave a hold down clamp. I camt see any threaded hole where one would go though. Plus i cant pull it out which is wierd since there is no clamp. I must be missing something

My speedometer stopped working in my 61 LeSabre. I pulled the cable and it looks ok. I can drive the speedometer with a srill but when i hook it to the transmission i get nothing. I also noticed the speedometer gear housing in the transmission spins freely. Im not sure what locks it in place?? I can’t figure out how to remove the housing to inspect the gear. Any ideas?

Looking for a rear 61 bumper with good chrome

Can anyone show me photos of the side cables on 1 '61 convertible? I need to figure out where they attach on both ends. I put the top down half way, can see the pockets on the top , but cant figure out where they attach.

I need to have my heads redone on my 61 364 Nailhead. Any shops in SoCal with Nailhead experience that anyone knows of? CH

Edelbrock 750

I had a chance this morning to do some testing. It seems like my issues come on at a certain engine RPM. This is true even in Park or Neutral. If I'm idling in park (17 Hg vacuum). I take it up to 3000 RPM (This is around where I encounter the drive-ability issue on the freeway). I let it return to idle and its extremely rough running (2-5 Hg vacuum). If I then slowly take the RPM up to say 1200 it smooths out and then will idle as before (17 Hg vacuum). Can this be transmission related being that it happens in park? I'm at a loss. My ignition system is pretty fresh meaning Pertronix ignition, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil. all less than 7500 miles.

Very Interesting. Thanks for the input!

What I mean is that it takes more throttle to produce power. It doesn't slip any more than before. Another way to put it was there is more parasitic loss in the transmission than before.

Got it nice and hot on my way to work and the level is a bit high. I can pull out a pint and try again tomorrow.

I put in Dex/Merc.

Just changed the pan gasket/ high and Low accumulator seals as well as drain the TC and changed oil. The old oil was sorta burnt/ brown looking. Not sure how long it has been since changed. The screen was really clean, as was the inside of the pan. It ended up taking 10 quarts (would've been more but the jack angle left some in the TC) After the change I noticed a slightly higher load in general. Slightly less power. I slight ping under load going up hill. Bear in mind I was jetted slightly lean on the primary before but it never pinged under load. I went one stage more rich on the primary and its back to how it was before. No real issue but just curious if the oil change (fresh fluid) takes more power to drive than the old stuff. Same level (Full on the stick when at operating temp). Any thoughts?

Im doing a transmission oil change and when i was cleaning the pan i see what looms like a little seal where the filler pipe goes. I thought it was just a flare fitting. Can anyone confirm if there is a seal between the pan and the filler pipe? Its a 1961...