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seeholmes

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  1. It has a notch in the housing like it should gave a hold down clamp. I camt see any threaded hole where one would go though. Plus i cant pull it out which is wierd since there is no clamp. I must be missing something
  2. My speedometer stopped working in my 61 LeSabre. I pulled the cable and it looks ok. I can drive the speedometer with a srill but when i hook it to the transmission i get nothing. I also noticed the speedometer gear housing in the transmission spins freely. Im not sure what locks it in place?? I can’t figure out how to remove the housing to inspect the gear. Any ideas?
  3. Looking for a rear 61 bumper with good chrome
  4. Can anyone show me photos of the side cables on 1 '61 convertible? I need to figure out where they attach on both ends. I put the top down half way, can see the pockets on the top , but cant figure out where they attach.
  5. I need to have my heads redone on my 61 364 Nailhead. Any shops in SoCal with Nailhead experience that anyone knows of? CH
  6. I had a chance this morning to do some testing. It seems like my issues come on at a certain engine RPM. This is true even in Park or Neutral. If I'm idling in park (17 Hg vacuum). I take it up to 3000 RPM (This is around where I encounter the drive-ability issue on the freeway). I let it return to idle and its extremely rough running (2-5 Hg vacuum). If I then slowly take the RPM up to say 1200 it smooths out and then will idle as before (17 Hg vacuum). Can this be transmission related being that it happens in park? I'm at a loss. My ignition system is pretty fresh meaning Pertronix ignition, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil. all less than 7500 miles.
  7. Very Interesting. Thanks for the input!
  8. What I mean is that it takes more throttle to produce power. It doesn't slip any more than before. Another way to put it was there is more parasitic loss in the transmission than before.
  9. Got it nice and hot on my way to work and the level is a bit high. I can pull out a pint and try again tomorrow.
  10. Just changed the pan gasket/ high and Low accumulator seals as well as drain the TC and changed oil. The old oil was sorta burnt/ brown looking. Not sure how long it has been since changed. The screen was really clean, as was the inside of the pan. It ended up taking 10 quarts (would've been more but the jack angle left some in the TC) After the change I noticed a slightly higher load in general. Slightly less power. I slight ping under load going up hill. Bear in mind I was jetted slightly lean on the primary before but it never pinged under load. I went one stage more rich on the primary and its back to how it was before. No real issue but just curious if the oil change (fresh fluid) takes more power to drive than the old stuff. Same level (Full on the stick when at operating temp). Any thoughts?
  11. Im doing a transmission oil change and when i was cleaning the pan i see what looms like a little seal where the filler pipe goes. I thought it was just a flare fitting. Can anyone confirm if there is a seal between the pan and the filler pipe? Its a 1961...
  12. The front of my car is pretty bouncy. I replaced the front shocks with some cheap Pep Boys shocks and it road exactly the same. Im wondering if there are better shocks for this car or perhaps my springs could be bad? Anyone have suggestions? Thanks
  13. Just to circle back on this issue and what I've found/done to address. While inspecting the exhaust for damage I started wondering how well the single exhaust can perform with my 364. The exhaust had 1.75" Y pipe to 2.25" intermediate pipe to an OEM style muffler. This should be a maximum of 400 CFM. That seemed close to the 375 CFM intake I was getting from my "primary only" carb arrangement. I decided to do a 2" dual system with higher performance mufflers (still fairly quiet). The difference in power is astounding! I immediately hooked up the secondary side of the carb, re-tuned metering rods and jets. The butt dyno says I added 50-75 horsepower. The "hill" that I was struggling on (hard to go faster than 75mph full throttle) can now me taken at 80+ with less than 50% throttle position. Thanks for all the input. It certainly helped to vet this issue with you guys. Craig PS the 750 Edelbrock performer carb ended up with the power stage of the metering rods 1 stage leaner than factory, the secondary jet ended up 1 stage rich. The accelerator pump arm was moved to the lowest position (biggest shot). It truly drives like a different car. I also realized while working on the car that my driver side motor mount is shot. This weekends activities are: Replace both motor mounts R&R oil pan and gassket R&R tran pan and gasket new high and low accumulator seals New front wheel bearings (inspect brakes and service if needed)
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