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  2. Mattml430

    selling my 26 DB Sedan. How much worth?

    Here in OZ it would be worth around $25-$30k I would think, I could be wrong. How much was your tourer you just bought? Any pics of the new one?
  3. Roger Zimmermann

    Construction of a Continental Mark II model, scale 1:12

    Thanks for all to ask questions, I like it! As I don't know how to handle multi quotes, I'll answer the easy way: @jpage: the chrome thickness is about 0.01mm (0.004"), not very important. If I know that 2 plated parts are coming together, I can put some play before plating. With the 3 models I did, I had not too much trouble with the chrome thickness. However, at each model I have more problems with the paint thickness! @Martin: whenever possible, I have studs to attach plated parts or I can fix them with screws. It's not always possible, like the window reveal moldings or the belt molding. They were glued with silicone and the quantity used is important to not have too much everywhere. An advantage of the clear silicone: it can be cleaned rather easily when cured. @keiser: soon! those parts will be glued with instant glue. at another forum, somebody told me that those instant glues are not good with the time. Can be; but the name plates/letters on the Toronado are still on after about 10 years. The person who tol me that said it would be better to attach the letters with silicone. So, recently I did a test on a painted surface: 2 letters with silicon and 2 with instant glue. After 2 days, I tested how easy or difficult it was to remove them: the one attached with silicone went away almost just be looking at them while the ones offered some resistance. As the surface is tiny, that resistance is small too. This is the reason whey the letters on hood and trunk lid will be attached when everything is OK. @Jeff: compared to the letters which will come on hood nd trunk lid, those are very large! However, their shape is not easy to reproduce.
  4. Senbotsu

    '39 plate decode

    I thought about it but historic plates come with restrictions on where/when you can drive the vehicle. I have heard from others that those restrictions are generally ignored by officers. Unfortunately I live dangerously close to a county that is starving for revenue and the local constabulary are notorious for salivating at the chance to nail you for anything they can. So after consulting an attorney I decided that while I dislike giving this state any more money than I absolutely have to, I don't relish risking a $10,000 fine and a potential felony (violation of VC 4463 - vehicle registration fraud, is a wobbler in california) just because I want to dress up and drive the Buick to a blues concert or take the better half wine tasting 😃
  5. Today
  6. 30DodgePanel

    Senior Six Questions for Car and Truck guys

    Do any of you car guys have a passenger car MPB that I can ask a question of ? In regards to Cylinder head gaskets for Senior Six's, part # 200316, do you show that part # "UP TO" engine IS-21,189 or anything close to that engine number ?
  7. 1939_Buick

    For Sale '54 and '55 Differentials

    Yes, in a way, but read the tech articles. Some people replace the complete diff, with brakes etc & use the original 1941 torque tube. There are threads here on the forum about 1940's ratio changes Typical threads --> http://forums.aaca.org/topic/267259-buick-special-1948-rear-differential-ratio/ --> https://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?20920-rear-gear-swap Not really applicable to 1940 & later, but interesting http://www.1937and1938buicks.com/Technical-Tips/Technical-Tips.htm For 1939 and earlier machine work & more torque tube work is needed.
  8. 30DodgePanel

    Continental 6 cylinder used in Dodge Brothers Senior Six

    Going back to your #2 post. This has plagued me since you posted it... and I apologize for flying over it too quickly. Probably could have saved us all a lot of headache if I would have comprehended it initially. Referring back to the Dodge Brothers Club article work compiled by Bruce K Brown and John C Bittence: According to the article for Senior Sixes, on 8/23/1927 at Serial # IS-21,182 there was a new color for the Sedan. Here's where it gets interesting.. on that same day it shows Serial # being at #IS-21,277 for a change to cylinder head (on this day at least 95 units were produced). At Serial # IS-21,277 (*or engine #11,277 in reality*) it states, "Cylinder head gets 16% clearance volume. Dealers to install these on existing cars "as rapidly as possible". This does not conflict with cylinder heads designed for high altitudes". 2249s were dogs according to early reports so was this a way of sneaking in performance on the fly ? Keep in mind that the engine serial number sequence for the Dodge Senior Six started on 5/12/1927 at # IS-10000 so this change took place somewhere between IS-11,182 and IS-11,277 (there's your 11,889 misprint should be 11,189) in reality since it began counting at IS-10,000 for engine number sequence. Matching exhaust and intake #s on Senior and Trucks coincide with Continental #'s ( V-533 exhaust and V534N intake but no conrod data for Continental which you've mentioned). My bet is King has a misprint, received it wrong from DB data or Continental gave wrong data in the translation somewhere and added to the confusion. Based on this I think we can surmise that 12M was indeed the Continental engine used in the original Senior Six 2249 up until engine #IS-21,189 (11,189 in reality). After engine #IS- 21,189 later in the year on 12/06/1927 sometime after engine #24,081 the new Dodge Senior Six engines labeled 2251 were showing up in sales folders suggesting better performance (having already been in place without public knowledge since August). On 1/02/1928 the new 2251 officially begins production (with a few other DB tweaks) and the change takes place officially from Continentals 12M (2249) to Continentals 14M (2251 which then later becomes labeled 2252 by Chrysler for the Senior Six with a couple other DB tweaks). Maybe you have been saying this all along... if so, my apologies... I have to walk through it to see it sometimes. In talking to others in the DBC this is the first time seeing an effort to prove the Continental engine and next I'll try and prove how the production of truck and car engines coincide in regards to engine numbers for both. Were they produced in sequence and if so how since Car prefix began with IS and Truck began with GB. More questions, again...but I had to find the Continental engine before I could even tackle that aspect of it. Also, just making note here that Selden Unit 37 has the Continental listed as 12C according to the March King 36 catalog I have so for now, I'm going to put that to the side with a note (as the valves and other info does not match anyway). Now ? For now it's over and out again as I look for any new data/photos on 12M and 14M via Continental literature....
  9. Mr. Maok, I hope those are not the rods that you are going to use, in your new engine. All those holes that are inside the Rod bearing, that I see, and in the out side thrust flanges, is dirt in your bearing babbitt. Those particular holes, are are caused from a Dirty pour, that had skimmings from the top of the babbitt pot surface, or some Guys just heat babbitt up in a ladle, and is poured into the jig, very crude. When you do it that way, the babbitt in the ladle will burn, and the burnt babbitt will go down the the bearing, and make the holes that you see. The problem is, the holes are not just on the surface, they will go clear to the core surface on the rod. So now you have dirt, between the tinning, if there is any, and the babbitt, which means that it is not stuck, as nothing sticks to dirt. Also, look at where the out sides of the thrust, touch the rod side, if that side is stuck, it will look like one metal, soaked in to the other. If there is a crack between the babbitt, and the rod, like water on wax, it will not be stuck. I will post some pictures of what dirt looks like from the back of the bearing, and also what the side of a flange should, and should not look like. It also looks like someone took Emery Cloth, to the inside of your bearings! Thanks, Herm.
  10. mister2tim

    FLAACA TOYS FOR TOTS

    The Fort Lauderdale Region AACA The 9th annual Toys for Tots Although 2018 was #9 in the FLAACA series to support the efforts of the United States Marines in the South Florida Christmas gifting of children, it’s never an event on cruise control by any means. As with the Boca Raton concourse gala, the kickoff is to meet with Rick Case, our main sponsor to secure a date for use of his expansive KIA dealership “outside” paved parking facility. Then the FLAACA event Chairman Jim Wright starts the months long sojourn seeking the door prizes and giveaways that marked this charity event as a pre-Christmas soirée for the all the attendees. And by “all attendees” that means anyone who wants to support Toys for Tots, not just AACA members.. You see our region supports the local car culture not just for us region members but for all of South Florida, all the time. It is also our way of introducing our AACA to the older car owners who want to proudly show their old, or newer, automobiles. I should know, as I was an attendee of the monthly car cruises way before my car suddenly turned into an AACA antique. The weather was better than fine, as we had overcast “shade” most of the day. The local weatherman forecasted 50% chance of rain, but we don’t believe them much, till it starts to rain. And so, the Marines walked away happy with 2 very large cardboard boxes of Christmas toys. The FLAACA members had another great social gathering. Local car owners all walked away with memento trophies to remember their day. And of course, Mr. Rick Case walked away with a hard earned trophy for his stunning, immaculate, beautiful and concourse level “1914 CASE” antique automobile.
  11. dustybonz

    For Sale '54 and '55 Differentials

    Tons of info on the link. I read in another site that I can just change the carrier? Is the easy bolt in way you're talking about.
  12. dei

    1958 Buick Registry

    Beautiful looking car with the matching colour interior? I wonder why he put the trunk handles on that are found on the Specials? The lower chrome strip has the handle moulded into it (above the fuel door).
  13. dei

    The 2018 - 2500 Challenge

    Squeezed in another few miles today due to a new battery and wanting to feel the rebuilt transmission. The end of the year isn't over just yet you know...😁
  14. GregLaR

    1931 Packard Series 826 4 Door 5-Passenger Sedan

    Price would certainly help.
  15. I jumped the weekend by a day but it was so nice to be in the mid 40's Friday and after putting in a new battery, just had to go for a ride. So excited forgot to take pictures while out...
  16. Wow, What a challenge. Its hard enough when you have all the right parts.
  17. I'm guessing that these guys watch the auctions and say "That's just like my car." But they can't see any details so they try to get the same price. Lost their mind and have no idea where to start looking for it.
  18. Smartin

    1958 Buick Registry

    Here is Hank Deglman's Blue Mist convertible. Who knows where it is now. It had factory AC.
  19. Smartin

    1958 Roadmaster $19,500 77,000 miles

    I like the car ,but my blunt opine is that it tops out at $15k. $20k is coupe territory. Or a really nice 4 door that needs nothing.
  20. Hubert_25-25

    Starter Generator clash with the sliding gear -pre 1925

    Brad, I hope to have plenty of good documentation for you when I am done. I don't know if you know the history of my 1925 Standard, but the previous owner bought the car in 1963. It was running at the time, but the guy wanted to restore it. He pulled the body off the frame. He had another Buick in his collection (1925 or 27) that was also auctioned off at the same time my car was. He was mainly into Model A Fords. Nothing was fixed other than the frame was blasted and painted and he did have some extra rear axle parts. The owner had an extensive collection of stuff when he passed away. All this went to auction about 10 years after his death. Someone put the body back on the frame with hardware store bolts, threw parts in buckets, put the engine on an old tire, stretch wrapped the parts, and made it look like a complete car. To the unknowing (me) 1926 radiator and shell, 1922 mud pan, Ford headlight lenses (installed backwards and upside down so you could not read the Ford Script), lots of wrong rims, etc. I thought I had found correct replacements for mostly all the incorrect items. I wish I knew who got the other Buick because we could make each other happy swapping each others parts back. The fact that it came with two 283 Starter generators (1925 Standard only) - both with Master starter pinion gears on the end is very ridiculous. Even going thru the SG rebuilding, I found several critical pieces missing when I started comparing what the parts book showed to what was in the SG unit. But starting out the day thinking I merely needed to install the SG unit with 3 bolts and finding out 2 days later what really was wrong is how this entire project has been going. Always an adventure. This is a photo of my car in 1963. That rear bumper did not come with my car. Another one did, and it did not fit, but it was in with the pile of parts. Also a photo of all the parts and the body picture used in the auction. Hugh
  21. After having been delayed dealing with an issue with Mom I finally got to the Special today. I first needed to take the old battery out to use for the core charge. Guess it was time to do as I found the hold down bracket was getting some corrosion. First place I went to which has had this battery on the on the shelf in the past said this particular style had to be ordered now so thanked them for their time and moved on down the road. Went to a local Battery builder / supplier (which by the way was where I bought the last one) and once paid for and secured in my truck headed on back to the garage. I grabbed a can of black enamel spray and after sanding down the build up on the hold down frame gave it two light coats to dry in the sun. The temperature was up to 45 degrees so it didn't take too long to dry. While waiting for paint to dry I occupied myself with cleaning up the white cell caps I saved from the old battery as I didn't particularly like the flat black ones on the new battery thinking they gave it the more traditional Delco battery look. What a nice change to hear her turn over with energy till the carb got enough fuel to fire up and be on high idle! After warming up some I decided to back her out and clean up the floor as I had placed various pieces of card board and plastic to catch the transmission fluid and antifreeze that had been leaking. With now having a parking pawl that worked I instinctively reached to release the parking brake which was my practice for some 40 years... Once outside I placed her in Park and felt the gentle slight roll now locking the drive train. Man this is a different car! OK, it was just too tempting to not go for a drive and after putting it into D instead of low which I used to do to avoid any slippage, took off down the road with confidence. I went by our friends house to find him just getting out of his car and suggested I come in to see their two year old granddaughter so put the car in park, shut her off and went inside. I don't have any grand kids yet and two years olds are busy people so, kept the visit short and said it was time to go. Bob walked me to the car and I held my breath as I turned on the key and pressed down the gas pedal to engage the starter... No, not what you think I was going to say... with not too much effort from the starter, she fired right up like it should! WOW! Who's car is this anyway??? I headed back to the garage and pulled inside to spray some PB Blaster on the bolts of the water pump and the fan to take off tomorrow as dinner plans had come up and was informed I needed to cleanup! It has been quite a roller coaster ride this past year and a half dealing with getting back on the road again after a 13 year slumber but every mile right now means more every day!!
  22. Ronnie

    1949 Buick Road Master model 70 starter issue?

    I were you I wouldn't bypass the neutral safety switch if you install a push button for the starter. I would keep it in the circuit.
  23. cahartley

    Taking slack out of steering box

    You didn't have to go to all that. The output shaft is square so when you removed the steering arm all you need to do is turn the steering wheel until the square moves a 1/4, 1/2 or 3/4 turn to where the arm will slip on again in the new position. The eccentric part is best done with a helper unless you feel like climbing in and out of the car 160 times......., Bear in mind that ANY slack in the train will interfere with getting a satisfactory setting and that includes king pins. Even with a proper setting if the toe-in is out of whack it still won't steer right,
  24. Grimy

    '39 plate decode

    Senbotsu, you may not be as "happy" when you find out that The Pipples' Republik of Caleeforneeya charges you full ad valorem registration on YOM (Year of Manufacture) plates and/or conventional plates, vs. $2 ad valorem if you opt for Historic Vehicle (HV) plates. This is based on the purchase price you declare under oath when you transfer the vehicle into your name, and drops 5% per year for the first ten years. Most of us Californians use HV plates and then (unlawfully) put the YOM plate on the front--and maybe add the other one to the rear for shows and tours. A car I paid $90K for had a $550 annual reg fee until I changed it to HV plates--and that was 12 years ago before the recent drastic increase in fees.. If this isn't impactful to you, more power to you! Enjoy the car--it's wonderful!
  25. Got the clock working😃 I took a contact off a set of car points and glued it on. The conductive adhesive to glue the point contact on does not work. Next I tried to solder the contact on, not sure what the contact is made of, but could not get it to solder. Next I found a point set with the contact attached to a copper arm. I cut the contact off leaving the copper attached to it. I ground the copper backing to match the shape of the contact and smoothed it all out with sandpaper. After some time I was able to solder this to the clock arm.I filed both contacts clean. The clock has been running for 5 hrs now😎
  26. Graham Man

    1930 Graham Standard Six

    Now we are talking, great looking Graham! The colors all look original. I am guessing you are not in the US? All export cars had side mounts. The cowl lights make it a first series 46....maybe, I would need to see the front to be sure. The numbers are in the rear seat floor (three tags) right side of the car, (sitting in it) by the rear door sill under the carpet. Should be a paint code 30-XX and a vin to tell us more. I really like the colors, love the black walls. They are great cars to drive.
  27. 1939_Buick

    For Sale '54 and '55 Differentials

    It will work great 😊 Sort of bolt in, but you will probably have to use your old torque tube. Guess the length is different. Can be hard to separate the drive shaft from the pinion shaft. Lots of info in http://www.1937and1938buicks.com/The-Torque-Tube/The-Torque-Tube.htm
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