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  2. I talk to a old Kaiser members looking to sell his kaiser darrin.. It has not run in the last 6 years.. and has some cracks in the paint. Price 90k. sold as is.. It was once owned by Vern Hunt and restored in the 80 by Fred Walker. Vern pasted away 32 years ago. I thing the color is white.. I do not have any pictures.. Just a price..
  3. I am one of those purists, but.... When you upgrade as you mention you have just created a one off unique car. This may be OK or not... If the upgrade fails on the road you will not be able to band aid fix it to get you home with a few low cost spare parts and a minimal tool kit. Just my $.02. Your car so it is your choice.....
  4. Today
  5. Most everything has already been said. One other possibility is a bad battery. It is possible that the internal connection to the positive post is bad. Best test for this is to try a known good battery if you can.
  6. @Matt Harwood, You did very well. The best thing to do to assist with machining, grinding or shaping any rubber part is to chill it first! At the very least put it in the freezer overnight and then work quickly. You may need to refreeze if it needs a lot of material removed. If you really need to do precision work or many parts liquid nitrogen is your best friend. It is very quick to cool and easy to use. JUST BE VERY CAREFUL!!! Liquid nitrogen is very unforgiving if it spills or splashes. Gloves and face shield is a must for safety.
  7. Was the entire cable hot? Or just an end? If it heating up right at the post, the outside of the post or the inside of the hole is dirty (scrape). If that doesn't fix it, and it still gets hot at the post the connection where the clamp is crimped or cast to the wire of the cable is bad. If you can isolate a spot that gets hot, the problem lies there. If the whole thing is getting hot, maybe the starter draws too much current and needs attention. That could also be the engine's fault if it drags too much, but that is less likely.
  8. I think we need a prewar photo about now? This one showed up in the model T forum a few days ago (Thank you Rich B). So far, no really good guesses what it is/was. Certainly an unusual car. My first thought (for about two seconds) was Hupmobile, long chassis model 20 of 1911 or 1912. However, clearly it is not. While the car appears to be rather small, relatively speaking, the hood is too long, hubcaps and several other details are not right for a Hupp 20. The long chassis Hupp 20 was usually a touring car, of small proportions. Based upon the size of the men, it does appear to be about a
  9. Here's a car puzzle to kill some time https://www.jigsawplanet.com/?rc=play&pid=3d0d590efe03
  10. For sale on Craigslist: 1981 Buick Riviera in Kernersville, NC - $8,750 - Call Greg: 336 671 92 two two Link: https://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/cto/d/kernersville-1981-buick-riviera/7309826381.html Seller's Description: 1981 Buick Riviera condition: like new cylinders: 8 cylinders transmission: automatic odometer: 32,000 title status: clean Selling my 1981 Buick Riviera with only 32,000 original miles. Slate Firemist metallic with matching vinyl Landau roof. I'm the second owner. The car is totally original - paint, engine a
  11. That type of front brake system was only used on two years of Chevrolet - 1928, and 1929. 1930 went to a cable type system in the front. The springs if original to the axle look like 1 ton springs which would make it 1928. Art
  12. Yesterday
  13. Keith do you still have your 56 Road master, i was assistant chief judge there at the time, i may try and dig up a photo of your car,,----im thinking about coming to 2023 national as well, love to meet you all.----regards.
  14. Today I rounded up some steel and hardware. I went to see my hobby-machinist friend. We tag-teamed a bit to build this con-rod vise. It should allow me to install, torque and crush the rod bearings. Then measure bearing to crank journal clearances. Fairly accurately I think. Better than plasti-gauge I think? It was a fun project. Bonus working with my buddy too. All for the ‘38!
  15. i might do this.first question is why did he use a core support from a caddy?unless they all are the same.
  16. I'm seeing '73 Electras online with rally wheels, but I'm having trouble figuring out how that can be made to work. It appears that '73 Electras were only sold new with the basic hubcap or the wire wheel cover. So, it looks like putting rally wheels on Electras was something their owners must've done later - did they all do this using the rally wheels made for the Estate Wagon? It appears that Electra wheels were 15 x 6 and that Estate Wagon wheels were 15 x 7 - is this true? Can 15 x 7 wheels be put on an Electra? I can't find any current aftermarket rally wheels that leave enough backsp
  17. Awesome, thanks! I know the rest of the hubcap is up there, will have to grab it when I can go up next.
  18. I do like AMC cars but never could get behind the Gremlin or for that matter, the Pacer.
  19. So are you talking about a dead battery or an engine knock wile running or something else? I am a little confused about what you are trying to describe. Can you be more specific?
  20. I boult and sponsored this car in the 80s. Took 2nd at the Nationals in Bristol. 409 Small heads Big cam 650 Holy 2 barrel. Power Glide. 4000 stall Trans brake 2 piece drive shaft Camaro 12 bolt 4.88 3600lbs with driver Over 1000 runs and only one break down. Electric fuel pimp gave out. We would race the car and after the race, we would park it and go watch the races. Only open the food at the beginning of the day to jet the carb if needed. Owner Mike Zubal out of Dearborn MI. Passed away in 2006
  21. Sorry guys. I have hunted high and low but have not been able to find that Fedco plate. Go ahead and sell yours 24Chry48. If I do find mine, I will let Sasha39 know regards Rick
  22. I have the stock manifold and 2bbl Carter, but the engine in the car has a Holley manifold on that fits this carb. It'll be good enough to fire it up when the time comes, I'll clean it up. Phil
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