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Everything posted by NTX5467

  1. The issue of finding someone who already KNOWS what they are looking at when they look at an older vehicle needing repairs/maintenance gets more real as time progresses, generally. Not that anybody can't learn, but who wants to pay lots of money for somebody's "schooling" on both parts and how to install them? Many "modern" techs can tend to rely upon YouTube DIY videos and such to determine how to work on things. Just as some dealership techs will call "Tech Assistance" for how to fix things and what parts to order to do it (usually a laundry list of parts of which few are reall
  2. I suspect the Modified market is more driven by people who want modern mechanisms in an older car they like the styling of. With the orientation that "modern iron" is more reliable than the older stuff. Possibly driven by the popularity of OEM-style crate engines/transmissions. Something the younger buyers can associate with and know how to work on themselves. I also suspect that most are done in higher-end shops that can also do full restorations, so it all comes out looking OEM-correct and such. Shops which probably charge over $100.00/hour for what they do. THEN, "do the math" to see
  3. In general, putting "hard seats" in cylinder heads is not a real issue, BUT in a NailHead Buick, the machine work gets touchy due to the location of the water jacket relative to the valve seat area. As in "very close", close enough that a bit of miscalculation in the depth of the machinework can "strike water". Consider, too, that the new seats are "interference fit", which can put more stress on an already thin area of cast iron in each combustion chamber. AND that's if there was no "core shift" when the particular head was cast! Some model years/engine sizes might be more critical in thi
  4. Considering that our ethanol'd fuel needs a bit richer jetting for its optimal a/f ratio, I think I'd just play with the base timing, check the vac advance amount, and letr that be the extent of things. Thanks for the info! Enjoy! NTX5467
  5. One other thing is that for "high altitude" vehicles, there used to be some guidance in the carb section of the service manual about adjusting the main jeet sizes downward at particular elevations to prevent a richer mixture. Model A Fords sold in CO used to have higher mechanical compression reatios to help combat the thinner air "up there", from what I've read. Some of that loss might be regained with a bit more initial timing, as one old-line service manager mentioned once. A bit of trace rattle upon acceleration at 1000' elevations, but not as he got into the higher altitudes
  6. If you don't already have one, get a timing light with a dial on the end of it. So you can use that dial to adjust the flash of the timing light to measure the running advance in the distributor, vacuum and mechanical, at idle/1500/3000 rpm levels. Only THEN will you know what's happening and how much. There should be some specs somewhere online for what your vehicle had from the factory, which you can compare to what you have. What was the orig application for the distributor you now have, determined by the 7-digit number on the side? IF the vac advance unit is afte
  7. Heat transfer from the engine itself can be an issue, as can air flow OVER the engine from the radiator fan. With the size of the carb float bowl having a secondary influence. An example would be that in the middle 1980s, when the OEMs knew that some sort of fuel injection was coming in 1987 (as with GM in particular), there had been "hot fuel handling" problems with many Camaro/Firebird V-8s which had not really had any problems before that. Chevrolet put out several TSBs to address this issue. Magazine letters in Chevy enthusiast magazines noted marginal improvements afterward
  8. The electric pumps used to be run via a key-on wiring hook-up, as I recall. Similarly, could be run via a tee-in engine oil pressure switch and relay, too. Several ways to do it. Including what Old-Tank linked to. Enjoy! NTX5467
  9. I believe that ThermoTec has some tubular heat insulation products that do more than "shield" a particular section of the tubing. But you also have to consider the "heat gain" from other sources the tube/fuel pump/carb are attached to . . . on the engien and all the way BACK to the fuel tank. Consider, too, that liquids under pressure have a higher boiling point than liquids under a partial vacuum. The volatility of the fluid can accentuate the latter. In earlier designs, putting the pressure toward where the fluid will end up made sense and could lessen possible fire damage. P
  10. Best of luck! These things were usually received by the dealershi[p from Buick, watched, then "archived" and later discarded when the next versions came in as "old news" by that time. IF they were used at all! As mentioned, eBay might be the best place to look. Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  11. Guess that engine was wanting some attention as it sat there, all alone in the chassis, while the a/c stuff was being done? Now it's getting the kind attention it has desired for a while. Ought to merrily hum along when its back to normal! NOW, the next question will be "What oil to use in it to protect the cam/valve listers?" Another thread? Thanks for the updates and pictures, NTX5467
  12. Thanks for the updates! Looks like it's full-rebuild time. Sure, you could "ring and bearing" it, or you can do the "full meal deal" and not have to worry about it in the future. Providing Mike and Old-Tank over-see it all . . . to ensure it's done right by a competent Buick engine rebuilder. How's the DynaFlow and rear axle? Wheel bearings and brakes? Shocks? Control arm bushings, front and rear? That "slope" can be a long one unless you grab hold of a branch along the way, somewhere? How's the a/c fitmet coming? Enjoy! NTX5467
  13. I suspect that the disc brake conversion "trend" has several origins. One would be the apparent lack of replacement parts (OR where to find them) for any drum brake system, especially the Buick finned aluminum drum systems). The other one might be that the "young 'uns" know what they're looking at on a power disc system, so they probably feel more comfortable with something like that. Not to mention the hype for such conversions on the weekend morning car shows! BTAIM A Beemon discovered, the model year of '50s Buick makes a big difference in those conversion deals! Space to m
  14. NO slippery slope unless you desire to slide down it! The booster pump which Old-Tank added to his car is NOT the same pump that any EFI system would tolerate. As the EFI systems usually need about 54psi in order for the injectors to fire. NOR as expensive as the normal "electric fuel pumps" which used to be used to feed 780cfm Holleys on Big Block Chevies. Don;t forget the clothes pins! NTX5467
  15. Thanks for the updates! I believe the burlap was used as the base "build" over the seat springs. From there, the foam and such was added. Some of the GM buckets, possibly including the Strato Bucket and Strato Bench items might have been their then-new "molded foam" that was a part of the seat structure and covered from there. Your upholstery shop would know the difference. Enjoy! NTX5467
  16. One main consideration is seat width, at the seat tracks AND where the tracks mount to the seat structure. Once that is known on your seat, then you can begin the hunt for a GM car with nothing wider than your seat is wide. A seat wider than your seat is fine, but narrower is NOT. Why? The seats' actuators are run by cables from a central electric motor bundle. Thsoe cables don't stretch! Past that, you;ll need 12V power. Run a 10ga wire from "power" to a relay to run the seat. Direct wiring is ok, rather than "through teh ign switch", as many OEM power seats are
  17. Back when those vehicles were built, "truth in advertising" was more of a "gentleman's agreement", unlike in modern times when things MUST be at least as advertised. There were also acceptable production variations in power output, too. 19 horsepower might be a bit wide in that tolerance, but if one cylinder is a little weak, that might put things into better perspective. What "spec fuel" did the dyno place use? Ethanol content or not? Optimized timing? Shop exhaust system? Additionally, considering that only about 80-85% of flywheel horsepower gets to the pavement
  18. Harbor Freight has a fluid transfer pump that runs on 2 D-cell batteries. NO need for personal suction. Costs less than $10.00 USD. Rubber hose for suction side is extra, as are the batteries.
  19. Manifold vacuum check? A road-load air/fuel ratio check might indicate ethanol content being greater? Idle scfrews need any tweaking toward "richer" for higher idle speeds? It MIGHT be just that particular load of gas from the fuel terminal. As almost everything is now "splash blended" at the terminal as the fuel goes into the tanker. Unlike "back when" the oil company's OWN trucks delivered fuel from THEIR tank farms. Have you pulled some fuel out and done an ethanol content test? Is there an ethanol-free pump at the local Murphy Fuel location? Of cou
  20. On the earlier GM C/K pickups I've driven, I could sometimes feel "a .5 second? lag" sometimes on very slow movements of the steering wheel before boost happened. But on more normal move,ments, no problem. In later model years, no dissernable lag at all, just instant boost/assist as the old hydraulic systems had. BUT no belt squeals or such when using fast turn movements, as in parking and such. "Finger-easy" steering, at ALL times, with more of a "Euro feel". The best feeling power steering was on some of the later '80s GM Suburbans. A notmal power steering pump which had a s
  21. In that orientation, rockauto.com shows some Liland Global rull-aluminum radiators for that application (AND many others!) at about what the old copper/brass items used to cost, or a bit less. Just need some satin black paint on them, if desired. Also many of the newer composit-tank/aluminum core OEM-style radiators, too, at VERY reasonable costs. But IF cosmetics are important, then a quality radiator shop will be needed. From my own experiences, the new OEM-style composite radiators are much more efficient than the older copper/brass items ever could be. Much lighter in physi
  22. If you have a "creeping heat" issue, where the temp rises slowly, even at highway speeds, then the bottom of the radiator core is probably "sedimented" somewhat, which effectrively makes it a bit smaller in size. An IR "heatr gun" can be a quick and effective way to check for this! For about $30.00 USD as some of the "freight"/tool companies. At highway speeds, the fan clutch should be "idling" and letting the air coming through the radiator spin it somewhat. Agreed, with the factory 195 degree F thermostat sped, 210 is a normal temp for ANY ambient temperature. Which might bre
  23. You might be able to ocnnect ot the Internet in your Enclave, without having to use the signal from Starbucks. Most late-model GM vehicle will support up to 12 WiFI devices. Not sure if the OnStar subscription is needed for that? The contrrol that is getting warm, is doing so due to heat generated from the variable resistor in the switch itself. Might check to see if any air flow "slots" might be blocked. PLUS get it to the dealer for an assesment, just in case. I know that in the '90s, we used ot sell a lot of the rear a/c control knobs, just ONE of them, usually t
  24. The MAIN advantage of power disc brakes is their fade resistance, NOT total stopping power. It's usually that ONE/FIRST STOP that makes the difference for most driving situations, not the THIRD stop, unless you've got some load in the car in mountainous terrain. Put OEM-quality brake shoes on it, at least, though. Get the booster rebuilt by a competent entity (Booster Dewey had been mentioned a lot in these and other forums, for example, but there might be somebody closer to you), for example. Don't forget ALL of the rubber fuel line hoses, too! It'll be a good project when it'
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