NTX5467

For supercharger information, the fwd Pontiac Grand Prix people probably have more information on them than Buick operatives might. Seems like the front piece used to be available from NAPA, as the complete rebuilt superchargers used to be? GM had a special "Supercharger Oil" that goes in the nose piece. Might still be around, too, but if you get it from a GM dealer that does not stock it, might have to buy 6 to get one. Check with your local dealer. IF they don't stock it, they can look on their locator to find a dealer that does. Then go into that dealer's website and order it. Prices can vary. I put "1999 Pontiac Grand Prix Supercharger" in to Google and came up with lots of listings. Used units, including on eBay. Scrolling down farther came some actual businesses who sold parts! Then what might be (what I consider) a good hi=perf Buick 3800 V-6 website www.3800pros.com . Same engine in the Grand Prix GTP as the Rivieras and fwd Regal GS used. There should be a Regal GS forum, which is good, too, but the GP operatives seemed to be more about hi-perf than others. www.RegalGS.org ? Enjoy! NTX5467

Valve covers rather than an intake manifold runner. Either way, IT was on the engine, usually "in plain open sight". Thanks, NTX5467

I never have done it, yet, but I've always wondered if the firing orders were really the same, as to cyl-to-cyl sequence other than which cyl is designated #1? Idle thought, NTX5467

(If an old car is "Old enough to smoke", might the a/c compressor be "Old enough to covertly and uncontrollably expel gasses"?) Perhaps the shaft wear might be the issue? Or did the super-glue formulation change? NTX5467

Look on the intake manifold runners. Usually, the firing order of the particular engine is cast into it. There should NOT be two firing orders for a Nailhead engine, period. But that NH firing order could be different from later Buick V-8s. NTX5467

Might it be the human competitiveness orientation? Sometimes good, sometimes otherwise? Over the years, to me, the BCA National Meets have grown to a "Really BIG Shew", as it probably should be to celebrate everything Buick. A "people event" and a "vehicle event" combined for everyone to enjoy and participate in to their desired level of involvement. Awards are just ONE part of the whole situation. To me, the shows should celebrate the vehicle marque and those who own them. Plus a sharing of knowledge such that vehicular knowledge horizons are expanded, openly swapping tips of how to do things, for a better Buick ownership experience and appreciation of the engineering which went into them. With a very diverse Buick family, spanning the World, there can be LOTS of tips to swap and things to learn about! As "How I Love To Drive My Buick" plays in the background (physicall8y or mentally). (It's on YouTube, too) NTX5467

Distributor should be ported vacuum from the carb base. Brake booster will be a larger hose hooked to either the back of the carburetor of a rear intake manifold runner, directly. Heater control valve will be (probably) the same size as the vac advance hose, but also from a manifold vac source of the same size. It can also go first to a vacuum can reservoir/check valve before it goes through the firewall. Once inside, it should go to the contrl valve on the instrument panel's rear area. THEN from there, the hoses will go to the various vac actuators that run the valves which open and close the several doors in the hvac box. There should be a vac map in the service manual for these hvac-specific hoses. Usually, they were a hose material with more silicone in them, possibly with a color stripe on them. In general, the size of the vac tap is the same size as the tap of the end location. Same size hose at both ends. Hope this might help. NTX5467

There is an adapter (plastic or similar) to adapt the smaller air cleaner "circle" to the larger 1968+ "Holley" size (which is the common size for all 4bbls built after the 1967 model year. Otherwise, a common "Corvette-style" open element air cleaner which is available from many sources. DO check for hood clearance in each situation, BEFORE you close the hood. Might need to "deal with" the hose from the valve cover, though. Check local speed shops or some auto parts stores (O'Reillys or AutoZone). NTX5467

What is your concern regarding the vac lines? Just curious as they were so simple when compared to anything of the 70s and newer. NTX5467

I was thinking she had passed. My apologies for that error on my part. I had known that Ed had passed, though. Original post edited. NTX5467

Howdy -- In reading the "President's Message" in the April 2024 BUGLE, there was a mention of a proposal to implement some changes to National Meet Judging. To include items done to vehicles not allowed in the normal 400 Point System, but not to the level of putting the vehicle automatically in the Modified Class. First, the Integrity, Status, or Importance of the existing 400 Point System does NOT and should NOT be compromised, diluted or watered-down, or other wise diminished in any manner, period. Yet there are some vehicles which cannot participate in the 400 Point System which have some changes which do not automatically place them in the Modified judging and apparently disqualify them for other classes, so they might end up in the Modified Class as a result. "Day Two" Restoration orientations were mentioned. In reality, these were really more like "Day 30" or "After the first oil change" items, to me. Things that were done later that would not compromise the new vehicle factory warranty. Adding a tachometer and gauges might wait a few weeks to ensure what the factory did was holding up well, for example. Adding dual exhausts and/or a larger carburetor would need to wait until after the factory warranty was completed, lest it be voided and needed. A different wheel/tire combination might wait until tires were needing replacement, for example, rather than sooner. I can see where these could be "Day Two", but usually not, although that is how they are termed for restoration purposes. Using non-OEM used interior fabrics/vinyls was mentioned, too. In doing these alterations, it would be hoped that the highest degree of execution was striven-for, rather than not. End result would be that the vehicle is more pleasant to drive on trips and other excursions. When the Driven Class was originally proposed at the General Membership Meeting at the 1999 BCA National Meet in Kokomo, it was my understanding that such vehicles would find a place in the Driven Class. As the Driven Class ended up being implemented, it was more like a 400 Point System class that was not specifically a 400 Point System class. Not allowing alternators in place of generators, for example. Or even adding aftermarket air conditioning. I heard of these things a few years later at the first BCA National Meet the Driven Class was first operative at. When our North Texas Chapter hosted our first BCA National Meet in Plano, TX, at that time, a hot topic was allowing halogen headlights in the 400 Point System judged class as a "no-deduction" situation. It was quite by accident that I discovered why they should not be allowed, although other clube allowed them. I heard Val Ingram state, as a part of a discussion, that (paraphrased), The BCA was the ultimate Buick car group and cars at its shows should be judged to a standard of "End of the Assembly Line", correct for the model year of the vehicle. Which is how the 400 Point System should be oriented. When I heard that statement, it made perfect sense to me that halogen headlights, like radial tires should not be allowed on vehicles they could not have been factory equipment on from the factory (not dealer-installed prior to the purchase of the vehicle). Back to the mention of "changes in judging", in The BUGLE . . . For vehicles with modifications not to the level of the vehicles not being put in the Modified Class . . . I would propose that the Driven Class be expanded to allow for previously non-allowed items AND also be split into "Driven Display" and "Driven Judged". Leaving the Archival Class to be the driven, patina'd, and more correct vehicles in the non-400 Point System judging. I would also propose that "Driven Display" could also include Modified vehicles which are not judged, unless a "General Display" or "Car Corral" designation is available at the national meet. As to the Driven Class, there would need to be some criteria for participation in that class, at either level. One would be a wheel diameter which aligns with what was factory-available on the car when new. Factory wheels not required, although welcomed, but of the OEM wheel diameter only. The INTENT of the owner would be to maintain the vehicle "as stock", but with some changes. To large would be "Modified". Keeping "chrome" to an appropriate minimum, mimicking what the factory had available, for example. Too much would be "Modified". "Level of Execution" would be KEY in these changes. Different upholstery fabrics/vinyls than stock, sewn in the same general pattern. Fine. Aftermarket seats, that's "Modified". "Used car lot-ized" bench seats, not good. A comprehensive list if changes could be formulated to determine when a Driven vehicle would need to become a Modified vehicle, too. In the powertrain realm of things, replacing the stock automatic transmission with a more modern 3-speed automatic, or even a later 8-speed automatic, with needed driveline changes, would be possible provided other aspects of the Driven Class were adhered to. Similar with modern-style EFI, or perhaps such EFI vehicles could be in a sub-class of Driven. NO deductions for rock chips, bug splatters, or "use degraded" bright trim. I wanted to make this posting to ensure BCA and other car club members might learn of the proposals mentioned in "The BUGLE", with some comments on this subject. Solutions rather than otherwise. Perhaps it can become a "sticky" at the top of the page? Just some thoughts, Willis Bell 20811

A "GT"? My definition of "Grand Touring" is a vehicle that has better brakes, handling, road manners, and power above what a normal vehicle might have. Those Rivieras had style, comfort, smooooth performance, and good fuel economy. "GT" of a different orientation? NTX5467

It might be unusual for the lamp harness grounds (one on each side, for each corner) to both be bad, but check for general principles.

Glad things are progressing! Rather than Town Cars, you can also investigate 2005 Impalas and LeSabres. Pretty inexpensive to operate and repair. Just passed 300K on the Impala (with one GM reman transaxle, which could have been avoided with a pressure switch group change). In my driving, Michelins last about 90K miles or so. The LeSabre, being related to the DeVille/DTS platform, is smoother and quieter. Being mine is a Limited and was a Hertz rent-a-car from Hawaii, it has everything except 16" tires/wheels. The RainSense wipers are neat, once you figure out their programs. Mine has leather, too. Prices on these cars are still very reasonable for what is received. Estate or pre-Estate sales can be placed to find them. A former work associate was a retired Police Chief near Rowlett. He said that Ford approached them to take their Crown Vics back, completely refurbish/rebuild them (engine, trans, axles, etc) for $10K each. He said that was a real no-brainer! And it worked as they said it would. Which explained why we saw Crown Vics around for years after they were out of production! Enjoy! NTX5467

If I wanted to go to the dealer, I would have to make an appointment (sometimes two weeks in advance!). At Valvoline, I can drive up without such. Might have to wait for others in front to get finished, though, which is fine. If I see two cars already there, I can come back later. They also want to check tire pressures (on a hot tire), battery, wiper blades, and such. I decline those things as if they were not good, I could not have gotten there. I also suspect the "workers" might change from time to time, too. I feel their products are a bit higher-priced, but that is to be expected, which is the reason for the discount coupons. I know what oil costs at WalMart, plus a filter, too. Then figure in the hassle of dealing with the old oil and such. With the discount, it all works for me. If they wree not there, I'd either be at Firestone, Goodyear, or a private shop that does oil changes (mostly). Plus later formulations of their oil are supposed to have more Moly in them, compared to other brands and earlier times. The engines sound better on it than the GM oil that used to be in them. Whatever works, NTX5467

I understand the reason for desiring to find the OEM harnesses for these things. What might be questioned is just how well they have aged? Related to the integrity of the connections of the wiring and terminals, specifically. Wiring might not degrade very fast, though, but without the terminal/wiring interface not being soldered, might those interfaces possibly develope added resistance with time? If the correct insulator colors of the respective wires can be obtained, in the correct (or slightly more robust) gauges, plus correct solderless terminals, maybe even the insulators for such, might a better result be obtained by producing it yourself? Or by another "engaged individual"? With these things "done", then you can proceed with other projects, it would seem. Especially with the next "car season" or activities quickly arriving? Just some thoughts, NTX5467

When I got my first fwd car (a 2000 Impala in 2007 or so), that was "new territory" so I started going to a Firestone place a friend and former parts customer was running. That was good, even if i was not a fan of the oil brand they used. I figured it was "good enough". Later, gravitated back to the dealership I worked at. As I neared retirement, I gravitated toward a new Valvoline Oil Change location in town. They had a $15.00 coupon on the back of some Albertson's and WalMart cash register receipts, which put things at $55.00 for their mid-level oil change (Valv High-Mileage "red bottle" oil). That still works. Then I started to get discount cards from them in the mail. I later discovered they also have AARP discounts. Looks like that's where I'll stay for a while. They have a set procedure to do their oil changes. With the main person calling out the filter number and oil to the person below. Plus the amount of torque for the drain plug. Seems to work well. Last time I was in, they somehow got the impression it was time for a new air filter element, although I had not approved such OR was asked about it. I let them do it anyway as it had been a while. One of the top-side guys was excited that underhood, my car was similar to his later-model Impala. So I figured he knew how to take things apart. Things were good. The car ran better, yet after decelerating down the off-ramp, the engine stopped, but quickly re-started. Seems he did not get the rubber duct seated all the say onto the throttle body. Hence, less air going through the mass air flow sensor. Engine thought it had stopped when it didn't. I decoded the code and then discovered what had happened. I repositioned the duct so all air went through the MAF and all was great again. KEY thing is that you have to know the limitations of which ever repair shop you might choose to use. Not being the guinea pig for their learning curve. Now as always. Valvoline seem to get around some of this with "procedures" rather than otherwise. Enjoy! NTX5467

Was just remembering how some oil changers used to screw the filters on so tight that an air ratchet was needed to remove them, rather than oil the rubber gasket and then tighten the filter the additional 1/2-3/4 turn past contact to tighten them. When I started doing my own oil changes, I bought the band wrench our service station guy used with no issues. Didn't work for me. Ended up stabbing the filter with a screwdriver several times before it broke loose. Got a good end-cap wrench after that! But normally, you wouldn't be doing an oil filter change on the side of the road. Enjoy! NTX5467

Going to continue to do so?

Can you find one for a '80 Riv with an Olds 307 in it? Probably might not make any difference, though. NTX5467

Do your own oil changes, too?

I hope your Dad's last days are enjoyable for all. Mechanically, other than the powertrain, the car is a 2-dr version of the Olds Aurora. Same platform. Olds didn't like to admit that, back then. Plug-ins on the back of the radio? On top of the radio case, there is a wiring notation of which wires go where. There is a single wire which runs the memory in the radio, which is hot all of the time. "Clock memory". To me, the issues with the radio sound like dirty switches that stick. At one time, the Buick stereos ran the steering wheel control volume with an apparent servo motor in the radio, which physically turned the volume knob, up or down. I think yours might be a bit newer than that. Is there evidence of somebody molesting the wiring before y'all got it? Bad thing is that GM went Internet-based on their service manuals in the 1990s, but you might check with Helm, Inc. to see if they might have some paper versions with wiring schematics. Using Google searches for the issues mentioned might help too. On some of the Buicks back then, the "upgrade suspension" amounted to stiffer-sidewal Eagle GT tires and a bit larger sway bars. The stiffer tires got the valving in the struts activated quicker for a bit firmer feel. KYBs can be a cost-effective choice and be about 20% stiffer than OEM. Get the complete strut/spring versions. Wet-sanding is a lot of work! Use a good, fine compound with an orbital buffer instead. Do NOT want to cut through the clearcoat! A clay bar might help, too. Then some quality wax to finish things off. Value? Unfortunately many Rivieras, once they got past their initial "used car" stage, don't have the book value it seems they should. Good if you are buying, otherwise if you desire to sell. BTAIM The "good thing" is that depreciation has already happened, so you've got some classy wheels that will retain what value it has if you take care of it and keep it looking nice. Hope this might help, NTX5467

Which THEN means the stud and lug nut are now "prevailing torque", all of a sudden WITHOUT paying extra for such. Most of the service station guys I knew, back then, knew full well the FOLLY of having an air ratchet set to that level. Choosing, instead, to dial things back to prevent damage from an inexperienced user that might end up using them. Better to wait for the ratcheting action to start to move things than to force it with higher torques. Even so, sometimes the lug nuts were too hot to comfortably hold. With all due respect, NTX5467

Thanks for that link! Neat how things happen, sometimes. I really enjoyed the interview at the end. NTX5467

Did the anti-seize take the squeak out? Seems like all of the thread torque specs I've seen have mentioned "lightly-lubed threads", with motor oil? Ever feel the heat in the wheel stud where the nut came off slowly with an impact? Or the heat in a lug nut that is too hot to hold? NTX5467