Riviera63

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About Riviera63

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 03/26/1954

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Stevens Point, WI 54482
  • Interests:
    Working on our Buick Riviera, reading, watching my Green Bay Packers and Wisconsin Badgers, walking and do-it-yourself projects.

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  1. I am assuming that is a check valve. It was on there when I bought it. If you look at the cap that is on my car now (NOS original) the first picture. You will see there is a hole right in the very center of the cap. The cap that I took off and no longer use (3rd & 4th Pictures) does not say vented either. You can have that cap for free if you want it. Just pay the postage, which I would assume would be 1st class. Bill
  2. For sale is a very nice right/passenger's side front wheel opening molding. The molding has been polished to a beautiful shine with no rust, scratches or dents. The mounting holes are intact. There are some VERY minor use/wear marks that are not visible unless under very close scrutiny and even then hard to discern. This is a really nice piece. I am offering this to Forum members before I list it for sale elsewhere. $90.00 plus shipping and handling. Please PM me if interested. Thanks. Bill
  3. First picture is of my gas cap. Vented as you can see. Picture number 2 shows my venting hose configuration. Right or wrong I don't know. The 3rd and 4th pictures show the gas cap that was on my car when I purchased it . Also a vented cap. You are welcome to have it for postage if you would like it. Bill
  4. I agree with Tom. I have an NOS gas cap on my 63 and am pretty sure it is vented as was the one it replaced. I have the large loop around the filler neck as well. I fill my car to the brim and have never had a leaking problem. The only time I ever had a problem is when I parked with a full tank on a backwards incline. This is when the low filler neck came into play as Winston mentioned. In that situation I had gas leak out around the gas cap. Bill
  5. Steve, It is a molded set for the front.Don't search by model and year. Do a general search for "run channel mohair liner" on the Steele website. The other sites probably have something similar. I think you will have to cut to fit. Bill
  6. Tom, Have you actually taken an armrest and just drilled holes and made it fit the 63 seat frame? I don't think so. There is no way the rail on the 63 seat frame is wide enough to drill holes and have the armrest fit. Again, the extra brace and arching makes a fit impossible. Plates also have to be added with the mounting holes. As stated in my previous post I said that some reconstruction and/or the replacement of the seat bottom with a 64/65 seat bottom would be necessary to make it work. I did not say it was impossible but, problematic. I guess that offering possible solutions to make it work is not using ones imagination. My only intent was to give a 63 owner the benefit of my personal experience and let them know that this install is not as simple as it may seem. This project can be a significant output of time and money so knowing what is ahead for someone contemplating this project is important. Bill
  7. Tom, It is not as simple as just drilling holes carefully. That is what I was led to believe when I bought my armrest. As you can see there are two cross braces in the 63 seat frame which if I remember correctly are arched. This does not allow the center armrest to sit where it should. Again, if I remember correctly these would need to be flattened/removed and reworked then plates added with holes drilled for the attachments as the side rails are not wide enough on the 63 frame to match up with the armrest holes. Believe me, after all of the work I put in to refurbishing that armrest I looked very hard and long as to what it would take to make it work. Bill
  8. I have seen all of these trim pieces and they are all in pretty nice shape. Bill
  9. As the guys above said, bolt in for 64 & 65. Would need major modification to add to a 63 or you would need to swap in a 64 or 65 seat bottom in case anyone is thinking of adding to a 63. I found this out the hard way. I restored a center armrest over the winter a few years ago to put in my 63 thinking it was a bolt in. Very disappointed when I saw that it was not a bolt in. My fault for not looking my seat over first. I decided it was too much trouble and sold it. Probably not too bad for someone with welding skills. Bill
  10. That was 6 years ago. I have dealt with Jeff personally and he is a great guy and a friend to Riviera owners. He is a busy guy and I sure it was just an oversight that he did not update this post. I bought one of these just a couple of months ago from CARS. No problems getting it. They have them listed on e-bay right now. Bill https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-Buick-Riviera-Tri-Shield-Hood-Emblem-OEM-1360069/182044982842?fits=Year%3A1963|Model%3ARiviera&epid=655372514&hash=item2a62b9fe3a:g:d3QAAOSwo0JWPzbn
  11. Bob, I know the track bar bushings can be put in and removed by hand as I have done it. We changed the bushings in my car in the garage of my brother-in-laws friend when we drove out to Colorado Springs for the 2014 ROA Convention. They were the poly bushings and with the supplied grease slipped in fairly easily if I remember correctly. The hard part was cold chiseling the metal sleeve of the old bushings out of the track bar. Bill
  12. 7/64" as nipples are 1/8". Found mine on e-bay. 25 feet will be plenty as far as length. Ed is referencing the rear cardboard piece that runs along the rear. The box that encloses the lock mechanism needs to be bigger as you are adding a piece to the lock mechanism. You will have to buy a whole new cardboard set to get what you need. Bill
  13. Also has 65 ribbed rockers added. Concur with Pat. A very nice color combination. Bill
  14. I did the same with my 63 and got the same results Pat is talking about. Bill
  15. Hi Rich, I am not the Joker but, I can give you some insight as to replacing the door felts on your car as I have done them on my car. The first thing I will tell you is that the installation of these is not hard but, time consuming. You will have to do panel removal if you want to do the installation correctly and more easily. Once you have a panel off removal of the old felts is much easier as is the installation. These felts were not intended to keep water out. Water does pass through. This is why it is important to make sure the drain holes beneath the windows at the bottom of the car are open to allow water to drain out. If these are open to allow water to pass through you will not have problems. When these are plugged that is when you have problems possibly resulting in rust as the water is trapped inside the various panels. In the rear you need to remove the inside rear quarter panel. This is somewhat time consuming as you need too remove the rear seats to remove them. Once this is removed it is much easier to remove the old felts and install the old ones. If I remember correctly the replacements fit exactly like the OEM felts. If not, you may have to drill some new holes to attach the new felts. Now that you have the rear quarter panel removed this is a good time to adjust the rear window and/or do any other maintenance that requires this panel removed such as putting in new rear door windlace. In order to do the installation on the front doors you will need to remove the inside door panels(you do not need to remove the outer door skin to remove the inner door panels) and the outer door skins. Again, this is not hard but, time consuming. Once these are removed it is much easier to remove the old staples holding the old felts on and install the new ones. If yours have rivets then they have been replaced before. You will have to drill new holes to attach the new felts with the new staples. The new felts have holes pre-drilled. Clamp the new felt in place while drilling the new holes so that it does not move. Put the new staples in as you go to help keep the felt in place as you drill the other holes. The staples will not be be visible as they will sink into felt hiding them when tightened. The outer felt attaches to the door chrome. When drilling the new holes make sure you put something to protect the chrome on the inside. This will keep you from putting dimples in the chrome when the drill bit punches through. As hard as you try to keep the bit from hitting it, it will. Again, with the inner and outer door panels removed is a great time to adjust, clean lubricate or replace other worn items. On a separate issue somewhat related to this. The original felts on the front doors were both fuzzy. Most of the sets being sold have a rubber V on the inside which is not correct. It is a minor thing and to many this does matter. I am picky as far as being correct so it mattered to me. The other issue with the inside felts being produced is that they have a bend in the chrome where the felt hits the vent window. If I remember correctly you will also have to trim some metal off of the front bottom where the staple holes are under the vent window. Look at your original and you will see what I am talking about.This is not correct as it should be straight. Again, this may not matter to some and the felt can be installed and will work. I bought mine from Repops and they worked with me and made me correct inside felts after I pointed out to them the inside ones were incorrect. If detailed all of this in another thread if you want to see in more detail what I was talking about. It is a time consuming job but, is very rewarding when you have finished. I hope this helps. Bill