Riviera63

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About Riviera63

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  • Birthday 03/26/1954

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Stevens Point, WI 54482
  • Interests:
    Working on our Buick Riviera, reading, watching my Green Bay Packers and Wisconsin Badgers, walking and do-it-yourself projects.

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  1. I'm pretty sure that Buick sent out a service bulletin to dealers to route the cables this way. I would assume that at some point they would have started doing it at the factory as well. I know I have seen other diagrams showing the cables routed in this manner. Bill
  2. Here are some more reference shots. With all of the examples shown you can get a pretty good idea of how your engine compartment should look and be painted. Bill
  3. Replaced mine with one from NAPA 4 years ago. It has never missed a beat. In fact with my old fuel pump I was getting 9-10 mpg city or highway. With the new fuel pump 13-16 mpg depending on the type of driving. Bill
  4. When I ordered mine from Clark's Corvair it came with directions for installation copied from the Body Manual that were pretty complete. If you haven't done so get the Chassis and the Body Manuals. These are an invaluable resource. The installation directions will be in the Body Manual I believe. This job can be done by yourself however, an extra set of hands makes the install much easier. Bill
  5. Scrolling through the TV Guide today and saw that the Motor Trend Channel (formerly Velocity Channel) program Wrench'd is customizing or butchering (depending on your point of view) a 1963 Riviera tonight at 8:00 CST with a repeat at 11:00 CST. Bill
  6. You can contact one of the many great vendors listed in the Riview. I am sure that any of them could hook you up with a nice original. Clark's Corvair also has repos part # R275. Bill
  7. Yes, they sell windlace. I bought a set for the rear of my 1963 and was very happy with it. It is on page 11 of the paper catalog. I don't know if this corresponds with the on-line catalog. 1964 Windlace Pair is R182 and 1964 Front Windlace Pair is R182F. You will need to add the color code to the end of the part number. Bill
  8. That is the size I used when I installed on my 1963. The nipple on the back of the pull vacuum in the glovebox and the nipple on the trunk lock are 1/8". The 7/64" is inside diameter of the hose. I bought a 50 foot roll on e-bay very cheaply. I used half and sold the other half. Bill
  9. If I remember correctly, I'm pretty sure this has been discussed before on the forum regarding the proportioning valve, that it is not necessary. Bill
  10. I did this conversion several years ago following Jim Cannon's (he is the 1963 Tech adviser for the ROA) conversion. Use the master cylinder for the 1967 Riviera, it is a bolt on. You can find either of the versions at your local auto parts stores. I got mine from NAPA. I kept the original booster as you are doing. His conversion is pretty straightforward and simple. I have not had any problems whatsoever. Like anything, there are multiple ways to do it. Here is what I recommend: Keep the factory distribution block on the frame. Remove the line going to the rear axle and plug it. Connect the port on the block that goes to the stock MC up to the FRONT port of the dual MC. You need to fabricate a line to do this, with double-flared ends at both ends. Put some slack in the line by making a Z-shaped portion or a coil The tube nut size on the front MC port is different from stock MC, but is easily obtained. That takes care of the front wheels. For the rear axle, you want to fabricate a new line that goes from the REAR port of the dual MC down to the frame in the vicinity of the distribution block. Include a coil or a Z for slack. Use a T-fitting style union made for brake light switch to connect the end of your new rear line to the existing rear line that come off of the original distribution block. The 2 union-type ends will be tube fittings. You connect the line to the rear axle to one of them and the line up to the dual MC to the other. It is equivalent to a straight-through union. The T-part of the fitting is 1/8" NPT, not flared tubing. The stock brake light switch screws right into it. The wires on the stock wiring harness are long enough to reach down to the frame by the distribution block. You do not need to splice any electric or cut anything. To keep the lines from vibrating against each other, I tied the lines to each other with a couple of small zip ties. I got the 3/16" tubing, the master fittings STN-7 and STN-5, the T-fitting BS-01(the T-fitting comes with a new brake light switch attached) and everything from Inline Tube. I might have gotten the plug from them, I don't remember. Call them. You do not need a proportioning valve for the drum-drum system. Crude proportioning is already included in the wheel cylinder cup/piston diameter difference between front and rear. Connecting lines as I describe will maintain the factory proportioning, for better or for worse. (I used to design brake systems.) The brake light switch is hard to bleed air out of. Fill it with fluid before screwing into the T-fitting. Try to keep it contacts down until you bleed the system, then invert it. Regarding which dual MC to use: You need to remove your stock MC from the car and look at the end of the piston that the booster pin presses against. It will be either a (roughly) 1" deep hole or a 1/4" deep dimple. The new dual MC that you install needs to have that same depth "hole". It will be either one or the other. Trying to put the wrong one in will not work. If you are keeping your STOCK booster, you need to put an o-ring on the neck of the new MC where it inserts into the booster, or else you will have no boost (due to vacuum leak at the neck). Either move the original o-ring over to the booster or get a new o-ring. The only guy I know that sells this special o-ring is Booster Dewey out in Oregon. You might try NAPA or other places and find it. If you were to "cut" the o-ring and look at the cut surface, it would not be a circle. It would be a small square. So it is not really a conventional o-ring. It is specific to this application. The write up on the ROA website is essentially the same as what Jim outlined but, somewhat more complicated. With the above method you don't have to replace the distribution block and fabricate a mounting bracket, your original distribution block is utilized. Also, if you are doing this on a 63 you do not have to mount and rewire a new brake light switch as outlined on the website. An original style brake light switch is included with the T from Inline Tube. The wires that ran to the switch on the original master cylinder are long enough to reach the new switch in the T. Hope this helps. Bill
  11. Bob, All is well with the water system. We just need an 8' X 4' section of sidewalk that needed to be removed to do the repair replaced when spring rolls along. I hope your repair goes well. Bill
  12. Sounds good. Let me know as soon as possible. I have it for sale on other venues as well. Thanks. Bill