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old-tank last won the day on February 3 2019

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  1. Usually I can just file the points and sometimes I need to spark it from a power source to get it going; the adjust for a nice nasty tone that is reproduced every time it is activated. Let the vibration liberate the dust along with compressed air before putting back together.
  2. What I see of how they attach to the floor, they are not original. Any 2-door Special or Century (hardtop, sedan or convertible) will work, but would need the correct upholstery and pattern done.
  3. My understanding is that they are just a simple pipe plugs, shaped for a special location. Use sealer on the threads (Permatex aviation or equivalent) never teflon or thread lock. Warren oil makes some good lubricants, but the type A is not one of them...better choice is their Dex/Merc with a better additive package and leave the type A for the Dollar stores.
  4. Original seal was leather...either way it needs to be replaced Transmission fluid will sometime get into the driveshaft through imperfect welds at the rear. It will come out the same way it got in, but don't be surprised if you fluid in the torque tube for awhile ( you did drill a hole for draining and inspection didn't you?)
  5. ...and be sure to remove the old gasket before installing the new one...
  6. There is a number on the lock cylinder: door, trunk, glove box; that number plus locksmith and you have a key
  7. How can you resist poking it?!
  8. Thanks Marty! We had good participation individually from our trumpet section of the local community band. My interpretation is HERE. Simple tune that I have never played perfectly...just too much emotion.
  9. Mine comes out through a hole in the floor...almost as fast. I got to where I could change out the shredded cluster gear in a couple of hours (if i did not lose some needle bearings in the dirt). The 4-speed has never been removed after installation, but 2 six cylinders and 2 flathead 8's and now the nailhead.
  10. You probably had the light 3 speed with column shift. Mine is the 4-speed (granny gear) as used in the biggest trucks. Those spur gears make almost as much noise as the exhaust. It pulls hard but "it takes awhile to shift" when double clutching it. Even the original flathead destroyed all of the available transmissions in my area. (there are a few on these forums that can give a "ride report")
  11. Short video: HERE I have to look for some "in progress" pictures...
  12. Dry will work, but I use high temp RTV (small amount!!!) and after cleaning they can be re-used. In the past I used copper coat spray with good results.
  13. Hi Juan, sorry I missed the part where you have a 55 (maybe start a new thread with a specific title) Anyhow I have two model 63 four door hardtops for 55. There is a formed piece of rubber held by a stainless strip, screwed to the door. Send me a PM and I can supply the body manual. Both of my cars are late production and both made in Dallas, TX There were two different mechanisms on the first year four door hardtop.
  14. Change one thing and you create three new problems (more or less). That was the advice a friend who builds hot rods gave to me when I announced that I was going to put a nailhead (264 from a 55 Buick) in my 51 Ford F-1 truck. Getting the nailhead and refreshing it was easy. I installed it with an adapter made to mate a nailhead to the early Ford transmission. I was proud that I had it sitting on motor mounts that I fashioned and it looked like all of the front end sheet metal would fit. Then my friend came over and popped my bubble. "What about the brake pedal that is going to hit the bellhousing?" "The steering box is occupying the space where the starter should sit". (guess I need brakes and a starter). I got another friend to bring his oxyacetylene torch to bend the brake and clutch pedals and I moved the steering box out and forward using piece of donor frame and using a mini-starter I was back in business. So, I completed it and it has been a fun ride although scary with double the horsepower. Next project: install A/C so I could be comfortable year 'round. Success! with minimal hacking. A few years and the start of 2020 and the fuel pump is leaking. No big deal...I know how to change a fuel pump on a nailhead. Just move the A/C compressor and bracket out of the way and... Not so fast since it (Lesson) seems that some dumb sumbeach did not leave enough slack in the hoses to move it! So I parked it over my service pit and worked from below. Installed a rebuilt pump and was ready to fire it up until I decided to check the oil. Lots of oil all the way up the dipstick. Drained about 4 gallons of gas diluted oil. Pulled the fuel pump, installed a block-off plate and added an electric fuel pump to use full time. (Lesson: don't use the mechanical pump low on the block if it is below the level of the fuel tank behind the seat, because when it leaks --- not if it leaks --- you get a crankcase full of gas). Some good news: the filter canister had only oil in it and actually came off with no interference with the custom dual exhaust. So now it is back to terrorizing the neighborhood in addition to killing bugs and killing the planet. It is easier to restore than to modify. Change one thing and you create three new problems.