old-tank

Is the blower motor missing?

I was concerned too when I put in a reground cam in one of my 55s. Measuring it with only 0.020 difference from the old cam. I did not have a problem and lifters should be able to tolerate it at least 0.050 to 0.080 variation. Maybe if you had worn push rods worn rockers warn rocker shaft and shorter than normal valve stem height and a thick head gasket you might have a problem.

You have a defective diaphragm.

Any of the non-glossy paints are harder to clean. Even bug spatters will stain permanently. If you drive it (and you should) apply powder coat or glossy paint with hardener. You will lose little or no judging points and no one is going to help you clean it after a 20 mile trip to the show.

I have used the Proto 6524 sending unit socket working under the car with good results. But this time it wouldn't budge and I was afraid I was going to snap off the stem of the sending unit again. Looking over the fender I was thinking I wonder if... 30 inches of extensions and it worked perfect. If you're tall and skinny with long arms you can do the whole job without getting under the car.

See if your radiator can be rodded and flushed and repaired; check the local price of replacement core. Aluminum is harder to fit, especially the original fan shroud. Aluminum cannot be cleaned as easily if plugged.

Correct.

Cool weather this time?

The rubber fuel lines were installed just as a test. In addition to being ugly they're probably not safe either. I made a convoluted adaptation so I can retain the original fuel line case somebody wanted to change it back. WTH?!?! That ain't no wcfb! The new carburetor runs just as good as the wcfb but it does not percolate dumping fuel into the intake manifold after every shutdown. When I worked on the engine a year ago I found the consequences of that percolation. Deposits on the backside of the intake valves and and in the intake runners. So far no hint of percolation with this carburetor. Sorry Ben still no fuel injection!

That might have been one of the dynaflows that I worked on.😗

Make one.

Those glass fuses were made by or invented by Lucas.

Never activate the starter until you have demonstrated the engine will turn. Try the crank bolt first. If no turning try prying between the ring gear and the block. If still no turning remove the rocker assemblies in case there are stuck valves. If it is still locked... check back...

And a 1960.

I have had that problem with old and new glass fuses. That is why I checked before chasing the circuit to the back.