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  1. Does anyone know how to remove the heat riser/valve on the exhaust manifold? Mine is really stiff and I need to remove in order to clean it to get it to open/closing smoothly.
  2. Thanks Ken. I have the 4 barrel WCFB carb. Sounds like I'll have to wait a while before I can get it totally right as the car is not back together and drivable yet. I'm neck deep in painting the car at this time (another first time skill development since they wanted $25-$30k). Here's some pic's to give you a feel. The body is in primer, but the hood is done. It's been a battle of killing rust since last year!
  3. Thank you all for the feedback. I'll stick with the no gasket approach and true-up the mating surfaces plus use the sealer. Only two had leaks so I'm not is bad shape - just needs some tweaking. 2nd question. I rebuilt the carburetor (first time I've ever done that) and the engine ran great during the break-in. I followed the shop manual instructions to set the carburetor. However, I see some pretty black smut in my new pipes which I believe means it is running very rich. I was expecting a grey/white burn-off. I also switched from points to a PerTronix Ignitor Ignition so I was expecting a cleaner/hotter fuel burn. Any pointers on how to adjust/lean out this carburetor for a cleaner fuel burn?
  4. When I rebuilt my 322 I bought my parts from Centerville auto in CA. They indicated "NO gaskets on exhaust manifolds were they bolt to the heads! That's right, gaskets will cause the manifolds to crack". I have successfully done the engine start and break-in. However, I have some exhaust manifold leaks that I need to resolve. I plan to gentle use a file to ensure flatness on the manifolds and head ports. I was also planning to use a copper coat gasket sealer on the metal-to-metal mount. My question: is everyone else not using exhaust manifold gaskets and what did you do to eliminate exhaust leaks?
  5. I got the seals from oldbuickparts.com
  6. Thanks all. I am in touch with mudbone now and he's helping to investigate. It is not an original part for sure and it was not in his 55 tran when he rebuilt - have his original video that he resent. Mudbone thought: "it may be a part a trans re-builder developed. My brother had a neighbor that had a trans rebuilding shop back in the 60's. He had patents on many trans tools and parts". So, I think we are all in agreement that it's not an original part to the tran. Thanks for verifying and giving me peace of mind! Even if I wanted to, I can't reinstall it without modifying it. It's forcing the anchor arm to protrude and I truly believe it was the cause of the stress cracks in the pic below. I might want to install it if we can determine what problem it was solving. My guess is that it prevents the reverse band from slipping around in the opposite direction as it takes up the open space between the anchor arm and trans housing wall, acting as a wedge. BTW, it can't be installed without intentionally placing it in it's position at the same time of the anchor arm/lever/strut install since it slides under the anchor arm.
  7. So John, that strut you have in the diagram/pic is the one mounted under the anchor/level. I don't see this other part in you book as well. It just doesn't seem like it should go there based on everything I described (cracks, causing flat mount problems of the servo/valve body, etc.).
  8. So a little more information. There were what I would describe as two stress cracks/metal tears on the body of the housing at each corner of the housing bridge that the anchor arm feeds under. When I mount this part in, the anchor are sticks up slightly above the cavity it's in which is preventing the servo and valve body to not mount flush/flat when I lay it on there. There is a strut mounted under the anchor arm and lever that matches to the picture/instructions in the shop manual. The instructions only define removal of this one strut under the anchor arm which is done simply by raising the lever and it drops out. I had a spare housing so I didn't reuse the one with stress cracks. It seems this was caused by this part being mounted per the picture and the previous person torqued the servo/valve body resulting the metal housing splitting/cracking. I would love to talk to mudbone but I haven't been here long enough to contact directly. I watch all his videos on the same year/tran and never saw this part.
  9. Hi John. It appears to be but it's not in any books, parts lists or diagrams I have which is why I was looking for confirmation. My pre-disassembly picture is my only reference. I don't get the cut outs on the part because it's a real sloppy fit and doesn't seem to align to the housing wall to be in line with the cut outs. Also not the tab riding on the edge of the housing in the pic. Is it really suppose to stick up out of the cavity and ride that edge or should it be in the cavity? Frustrated for documentation but these 55's had gapping holes or really detailed in some areas. Thanks for the help.
  10. I got not response on my last post on this and I'm really stuck. The part in this first picture came from the location circled in the second picture. I haven't found any exploded drawing with this part and the Shop Manual indicates nothing. Someone was into this tran before me and didn't put parts back on correctly so I'm looking for anyone to validate that this part does go in the picture location indicated. It just doesn't seem right for this to sit on top of the reverse band without being secured in some way. Help! Thanks.
  11. Hi Mudbone, Sorrrry to crash your post, but I can't contact members directly at this time. I just wanted to say thank you for all the past videos on all the various subjects. I've been restoring a 1955 Roadmaster for several years and I watched every video you ever made, I believe. Some are coming up "private now" on Youtube so see what that's about. Made it through the engine and had a successful engine start and break in. Have done a million other things and I'm neck deep in rebuilding the transmission - darn endplay is out of spec. Almost done painting the entire car. Other than some past history mechanical experience in my teens (now 61) almost all my restoration efforts have been a first time/new experience. Painting, full engine rebuild, full transmission rebuild, suspension, every stinking part on the car rebuild, etc. So thank you so much for documenting these tasks. I could not have accomplished all this without your video's!
  12. So I replaced both sides of my 55 axle seals at the same time. I'm in Texas and our Oreilly's Auto Parts store provides many different "free" tools. You get charged for the value of the tool when you check it out but receive the full credit if you bring it back in 5 days. I'm not sure where you are located but check with local auto parts stores on free tools they offer. It's been a life saver for me since my full car rebuild requires tools I will only use one time.
  13. So I was very cautious about bagging and tagging parts as I tore down and put back together the transmission up to the point to measure the end play. Of course, the end play is out of spec/tolerance so now I need to install a thicker thrust washer. Long story short, I have a part that has stumped me as to where it goes. I can't find it any the Shop Manual that's been guiding me (along with partial mudbones videos on the web) and I can't find any references on the web. I labeled it "Parking Gear". It's a clip. Does anyone recognize this part and can instruct me on where it mounts? Sorry, I feel like an idiot! So I have updated this and added a 2nd picture I took before I disassembled. I found where the part goes. My concern is that someone work on this transmission before and I found some parts not installed correctly. As stated earlier, I can find a reference or picture of this part in any sources. I can put it back in per the picture I took before disassembling, but I would sure like someone to verify this is correct.
  14. Thanks John. It was the rubber cushion that goes under the drive key installed in the shaft of the planetary gearset that drives the rear pump gear. Man, this transmission is kicking my butt. Just as I overcome one problem, another pop's up. I'm using a transmission rebuild kit from OLDBUICKPARTS. Didn't know it actually came from Fatsco. Now, the brand new oil seal rings on the clutch pack shaft are not staying snapped together. One broke. The snap ends are very thin/poorly designed and pop loose with minor movement. I have to get some new ones. The rings that were on there were better quality but worn. Since these came from Fatsco, is there a better source for these seal rings - requires 3.
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