Jump to content

2carb40

Members
  • Content Count

    151
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

117 Excellent

About 2carb40

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Nice work Ken. Good to know progress is happening!
  2. Posting a photo would help immensely! Part should have some interchange. Just a swag, but Im guess'n 54-55 Spec/Cent anyway?
  3. Hey Gary On the 54-56 Olds, which I found fit my Buick, the bows are number stamped. I found the numbers on the back side of one end the "fork" with slots for attaching to the car with screws. The front bow had the two digit number 70, 2nd 71, 3rd was 72. I hafta think GM had assembly line orientation in mind as a reference for 2dr vs 4 dr ht etc. Hope that helps! Good luck!
  4. On my 1940 Super coupe there was an interesting circular pattern stamped in the trunk floor right above the circle of bolts needing to be removed to take the sending unit out of the tank. Used a hole saw to remove trunk metal and made a circular access panel for servicing sender and wire when and if needed, rather than having to deal with weight and bulk of tank removal. Covered with trunk matt. Adjust centering drill bit on hole saw to just barely enuff sticking out. Hole in trunk metal yes, hole in top of tank, no! Good luck! Run drill in reverse when using holesaw in sheet metal.
  5. You can buy a cheap bore scope from Harbor freight store or online. It will allow you to look thru spark plug hole and possibly see the problem. If the cylinder head has to come off make sure you have help or a hoist. All the pushrods can be removed easily, except the one at the very back. When pulling that one it will hit the overhanging firewall. Cyl head must be pulled up part way then moved forward some with pushrod held carefully part way up to prevent it being bent while moving cyl head up and forward to remove. Good luck with repair! Machine shop can check head for flat. If it needs to
  6. Pm sent. Did U find an ex manifold? Expiring minds one two no!
  7. I cant carry a tune in wheelbarrow, so its lucky cash worked this time!
  8. Just a suggestion or 3. You can upgrade considerably, but not w/o $s and labor. A 263" later engine is not only more powerful, but also better fuel economy and more reliable with insert bearing connecting rods and better oiling. Ditch the Chevy 6 weak trans for a 6 bolt large trans from a 320" engine, Roadmster etc. First gear is lower ratio on that little itty-bitty weak trans! Check the rear gear ratio. If you find U need 2nd gear halfway thru the intersection its geared to low. Good for 1941, not now! You could maybe find a dyna the right length not to cut driveline, but they are pretty HP
  9. I posted about this in the past, Carl on the east coast did my shocks for 169.00 each including shipping one way. Turned out great and you can talk directly to him on the phone. "If I only have one life to live let me give it to learning every aspect of repairing it never to live long enuff to enjoy driving the dang thing! Heehee! Sure wish there was a resource/data section with an easy search feature! Computor nerds/experts please step forward!
  10. That number prefix is possibly an "RE" not BE. Buick started an engine replacement program since rationing made cars very hard to obtain. The "RE" designation was stamped in the block by the starter on my RE engine. The pad was left blank so the original engine number could be stamped to retain connection to title as many states used engine # to register vehicle. Ive seen many where # was not restamped leaving subsequent owners stumped about strange numbers on paper. Clean and inspect carefully and you may find the RE # on the block. If it was registered with the engine # originally and that #
  11. C.... Of the 40s has convert parts for 40-41 cars one of the few things common to Buick &Chev is the vacuum top cylinders. They advertise top operation reprint manuals, but Ive not seen much print on repair. Good luck with the repair! Missing letters hevs! Its the name we dare not speak!
  12. Factory bumper guards really trip my trigger. Specially the rear fold down. Fairly easy repair on the stainless trim between grilles. Gettin kinda tuff comin across those. Ornament has a chip, but adequate and shiny till my ship comes in! Gotta watch spelling there. Edit to read; cheap insurance using the front grille guard. As can be seen in the first photo, that bent front vertical stainless trim is an example of expensive front damage potential. Back in the day these were obviously great "push bumpers", once you got the one with this on it runnig, the others could be push started rather tha
  13. Mounts were redesigned for 1941. Buick cast extra holes in the case right below the belhousing for the wide trans mount to bolt to. 1940 wont have a place to bolt rear mount. '41 up to '49 should have that casting. Best to check parts book for the years the trans mount fits to know how far up trans will fit.
  14. Are these grilles part numbered in raised cast numbers or some other method. Since I dont know how to ID I may have a '65 grille, which wont work in my '64. Thanx for feedback!
  15. Well, maybe someone else can benefit from the info. Its not easy to find all that!
×
×
  • Create New...