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2carb40

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  1. Suggest you get in touch with WWI MUSEUM IN KANSAS CITY MO. IF ITS TOO NEW TRY THE WWII MUSEUM IN NEW ORLEANS, LA...
  2. A friend of mine drilled a hole in the bottom of the outside tube close to the rear differential tapped threads for a 90 degree barbed fitting. He installed a length of clear tube and ran it vertically with a vent fitting at the top. Check for fluid leaking by shining a flashlight on the clear tube, red=dyna fluid, other= diff fluid. Check amount of leakage by tipping tube down to drain into container. Seasonal leakage easily seen to be monitered, emptied and dealt with!
  3. The last nos exhaust center section I personally witnessed selling a couple months ago went for $900.oo, so I will attempt to repair one. Its hard to refute video recorded success. If the metallurgy is disturbed, but the ultimate useability of the part is acheived, then I guess Id take that over ending up with the part scrapped. The potential failure of the part does not constitute a danger of a safety issue, merely an annoying noise from the exhaust leaking. If science indicates a reason why I shouldnt try, especially from a safety standpoint, that info would of course be appreciated!
  4. Breaking Bad=acid, big 55 gal plastic drum. What could go wrong?
  5. Im guessing the wrench with the circular top is correct for 1941, but will have to do more checking. Also part of the fun! No more guessing. This photo of 4,600 mile original, (not a typo),clearly shows wrench in ? So, '39-'40 at least, maybe more, for one of them and 1941 for wrench with 'loop' at top.
  6. Thanx John I just get a bit of a kik outta having correct small stuff like this when I can find and ID them correctly. You might even have been a past owner given that I bought them from a mutual acquaintance yesterday.
  7. Like Frank used to say on that old tv show "just the facts mam" I think one of these is 1940 Buick, maybe 1940 GM? The one with the round loop on top I think is a little older? Anyone researched these and know, " just the facts"? Thanx in advance for definitive ID! Want a complete tire & jack tool set for my trunk display 1940 56C.
  8. The two parts being riveted together was a main reason why I decided to use this process and the fact that I lost patience grinding away on it. Ive wanted to try this process for a while now. Seemed to be to good to be true! Not! Already took a bunch of thick hardened coating off. Details to follow.
  9. Had to dig this stuff out cuz someone was makin "I hafta have that noises!" Yes, for you sharp-eyed folks thats a two brl heat riser with flapper adapted to fit 4brl. Like most, its not an original creation. I copied the plan from my friend Scott, who did it to his 48 Roadee. Oops, bet thiss'll go to non-original area. Sorry, I fergot again,dang! Well, hope someone gets a little kik out of it! Sure cheaper and easier than tryin 2 find correct, almost always spider web cracked original! Decided to show a couple "well designed" originals. Lucky to have them with all the "puzzle" pieces! Now waiting on EZ weld tig wire ordered on Evilbay. Saw Jay Leno You Tube video with weld.com Tig man tig welding a cast iron base to an antique water heater cold(no pre or post heat!) Has 2B true, cuz it was on the internet, right? We will see! Details to follow! Tune in again for the exciting? Conclusion!
  10. Ive decide to buy a few of those special Weldeasy rods. There are so many different tig welder mfg companies out there now its difficult to hone down to one you can trust to buy. Im seeing tig machines from a couple hundred to five thousand. More you tube research. A dream would be to buy USA made.....
  11. Looked at a video posted by Jay Leno showing "Mr Tig" tig welding a cast iron base for an antique water heater with an "Easyweld" rod engineered for no preheat when used with a tig welder. Anyone used this method? Results? Thanx in advance for any, good or unsuccessful! 1952 Buick Roadmasters have an exhaust center section that usually resembles the "after" photo of Humptee Dumptee's fall! Lost causes a specialty!
  12. Greetings When I saw the chrome headliner trim on the 55 Chev belaire 2dr hts, I wanted those in my 55 Bu Cent 2dr ht. It took some research, but I found Hollanders Interchange manual,(Mpls Co.), stating Olds of the same years('54,'55,'56) and the Buick Specials& Centuries had roofs that interchanged! From that I figured the chrome headliner trim would fit, which 98 & Super 88 2dr ht Olds had. Bingo! Chev is too narrow & Cadd too wide said Goldie locks! Alternatively, you could have someone cut metal trim from a wider/narrower car& mig/tig back together at proper length and rechromed. Took my side garnish to stainless polisher who had tri-5 Chev side stainless in stock. When I laid that trim on top of mine it was Identical, polished stainless purchased, which means side trim can now be polished again if needed, no expensive chroming! Chev Nomad trim is reproduced and could be resized for your Olds, maybe? Outside the box these daze are where a lot of alternatives can be acheived! Good luck!
  13. Thanx for adding that valuble safety info! The caveat about stainless and chromium is new to me and valuble to anyone using this process! My setup is outside garage and I dont smoke, so fire danger from the escaping gas is minimized! Too bad Im not equipped to capture and fuel a vehicle when Im essentially running a hydrogen generator!
  14. Yeah, but if you send me a private message I bet you get your wish!
  15. Oh yeah, forgot, box of A&H was 2.88 at grocery store! I know, I know, that just knocked it right out of most folks budget,DANG! Add 1-1/4 cup to the 20+gals of water(no, it doesnt help you remember to post things initially). Just a few hours in & looks like swamp on top of solution! Rust never sleeps, but electrolysis doesnt either, yay!
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