kingrudy

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About kingrudy

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/12/1950

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    mikebs06@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Asheville, North Carolina
  • Interests:
    Dogs and Cars - 1940 56S

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  1. Ken, Excellent choice in the color and top (I am biased). The color looks the best, in my opinion, in bright sunlight. It can appear to be more towards brown in dark lighting. Fantastic looking work so far, can't wait to see the final product. Mike
  2. Wish I could weigh in on this, but my engine compartment was altered by the previous owner. Maybe Matt Harwood could give you some direction. Ken Greene also might lead you in the right direction. Mike
  3. Neil, The work that you are doing looks great. I know there was quite a discussion about the engine turning of the dash. What is the plan in that regards? Also, can you tell me (now that your dash is mostly disassembled) how is the dash secured to the car? Thanks, Mike
  4. I think that there is some sentimental value to this car as it belonged to his dad and he spent several years hoping to get this car on the road. My car spent seven years in the hands of a "restoration shop". I am finishing the car myself, but I sure feel your pain. It is tough to be objective in this type of a situation, but if you price the car too high it will be a burden for a long time. Best of luck to you in this tough situation.
  5. This was my first car. Had a great ride and loved to drive it. Unfortunately body work sure looks questionable not to mention the drive train. Would be a nice car when finished, but too much to take on for me.
  6. I would like to purchase one. Send me a PM and we can work out the details. Thanks.
  7. I have a '40 Super also, but I have the later wire cover with the vents and I would like to change this. Do these look right for your Super?
  8. I believe that 2CARB40 has an interchange manual, maybe you could reach out to him.
  9. Just a brief comment on the freeway topic. I lived in Southern California for many years and living in the valley (population 1.75 million) there was no need to travel the freeways. There was a car show or some kind of event all spring, summer and fall going on. I now live in Asheville, North Carolina (population 400,000) also no need to travel freeways. I would much prefer a leisurely drive on the Blue Ridge Parkway, especially in the spring or fall.
  10. Additional information that may be useful to someone else.... The difference between the two regulators is due to the manufacturers. In 1940 Ternstedt Manufacturing which was a subsidiary of Fisher Body made the original regulator. General Motors several years later bought out Ternstedt and folded this into GM. The chart that I added below shows the regulator as GM 40 and cross references it to the original part number. I believe that is why the NOS part looks a little different, but all of the relevant measurements are identical to the original.
  11. After much work trying to get my drivers door regulator to work right, I finally through in the towel. I purchased a right side regulator on ebay listed as a 1940 window regulator 56 Super or 76 Roadmaster coupe convertible. Markings on the regulator are stamped GM-40 and the seller stated that this was NOS part #4113941, so I got out my Master Parts Catalog found the part number and cross referenced this to the body style. According to the book this part number is for a 1940 56C or 76C, or a 1941 56C or 76C. I was not deterred. I measured my regulator on six different points and they are an exact match. The fan looks a little different, but the span across the teeth is exact and the ends of my old regulator are a little wider than the new one, but all the important measurements are right on. I installed the new one today and it works great. Before you start this process remove the lower stop/ brace from the door. (A) 1. Removed the old regulator and put a 2'x4" cut to fit so the window would not drop down. Manual says remove the glass, but it wasn't necessary. (B) 2. Removed upper and lower glide channels. 3. Installed the new regulator with just the four large screws to hold regulator in place. 4. Slid glide channel into roller and secured this with two large screws. 5. Slid lower channel into bottom rollers and attached channel to bottom of window with four #6 machine screws. 6, Finally re install the lower brace/ stop and set to proper height of window, so your window will not travel too low.
  12. Normally I would not post on this as some people get their feelings hurt, but here is my take on this. I own a '40 Buick and when it is restored, I believe it will be worth about $20,000. I wouldn't sell my car for that, as I really like my car. I once read that a car is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for and I don't think that is very realistic. Nice looking '41, but I would be surprised is he sells it for the asking price. Best of luck.
  13. Looking for a drivers side window regulator for a 1940 56S. I believe that the 76S will work as well. Saw one on ebay, but it is for a convertible. Any response would be greatly appreciated.
  14. Just got the car back from the glass shop and installed the gravel deflectors today. I was surprised how much they stiffened up the rear fenders. These parts are getting hard to find because if they were on a car for a number of years they took quite a beating. The first picture is the 5/16 bolt to the upper section of the body. The second picture is a black 1/4" bolt as it would have originally been installed . The third picture is the tall one on the drivers side that protects the fuel filler. The fourth pic is the passengers side. Last pic shows the gravel deflector in the Master Parts Catalog, part 8.214 deflector.
  15. Picked up the car today and the windows look great. No gaps or wrinkles, I would now drive this car in the rain, if I had the wipers working. Next window regulator regulator repair and install stainless on the stream board. Might do those gravel deflectors too.