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Everything posted by old-tank

  1. Sounded like a good idea. All I get is 20 minutes of distorted music.
  2. Worth the asking price if they would just put the carb back on it to demonstrate that it runs and drives and cools...
  3. Mostly all ofMudbone's videos Probably stick with 56 if assembling parts. The service manual is detailed enough unless someone else has been in there and "messed with it" before you. The only "hard parts" I have replaced that were not in the kits were front and rear pumps and one input shaft along with a few universal joints. These were easy to find used or from David Edwards or Fatsco. Take it apart carefully: I have found missing bushings, wrong gaskets, substituted parts (on my 55 we found that a 56 clutch drum was used that needed 6 clutch pairs and did not work with the 5 clutch pairs for a 55s) If possible do the pressure checks before removing.
  4. Will show day for the Concord portion of the national meet be at the race track again?
  5. Now that I am interested, don't go private.
  6. That motor may work with the treaded shaft (but I would still rather disassemble, clean, lubricate and paint the old one )
  7. Please don't. Last time I looked inside a dynaflow there were no internal seals to leak; just the lip seal at the front pump and that is an external leak. Most likely you have worn parts with clearance problems and some low pressures. Do the pressure tests and report back. (the chemicals in B-12 Chemtool would make a good paint remover)
  8. I hope you have a fantastic report. The thermostats that I have been using work as designed, but (and it may be some other problem with the cooling system design) my factory air cars do not like speeds faster than 65mph if the outside temperature is above 95*.
  9. It is a chore, but doable. From my website: if you do pull the column, just use the plumbing fixture...that'a all I use now.
  10. I took mine to a lawn equipment repair place and had them duplicated.
  11. Well, ain't that special! I would still have to drive through 95-105* to get to either meet in July.
  12. Probably your best choice. Last year I bought parts from David Edwards to reseal the front of a dynaflow...good quality USA made parts.
  13. Check HERE and HERE. i bought one long ago from David Edwards and it appeared to be tarnished bare metal.
  14. I had one of those fail after 3 months: the rubber detached from the metal and also was swollen and slimy indicating the rubber was not compatible with oil! That vendor's response was just a middle finger (that was the last product I bought from them). Thirteen years ago and 70,000 miles the replacement from Bob's Automobilia is still in service. It could have been worse since I had to replace it right before a trip that would have me up to 2000 miles from home.
  15. Direct replacements are hard to find unless Pete has one. But most of the time they can be disassembled, cleaned and lubricated.
  16. I have seen them on show cars and they look nice. They are not made by Coker. Same tread as Goodyears that we used on a 55 Special back in the 1960's. Drive to the Summit store in GA (call first) and check date codes. Less than 5 years old on bias ply would be acceptable.
  17. One more thing. Bias or radial? Depends on how much you drive. Bias will last 15 years or 15,000 miles; radials will last 5 years or 60,000 miles. My last set of Silvertowns (5th set) lasted 2 years. The next set from Diamondback radials lasted 5 years (35,000 miles). Now if you smoke the tires a lot, then just get some cheap ones from WallyWorld.
  18. Coker or owns Universal tire and they are the same tire as Coker classic except for the label on the side.
  19. The DB' are 225-75R15 that were ordered with 2.5" whitewall; mounted they are 2 3/8 which gives the visual proportions that I like. I think the default is 2.75". My wire wheels on the convertible are Vintiques and are tubeless with 760-15 Silvertown bias. Are you sure they make a Firestone in 760-15? The Coker Classics with similar tread are junk: whitewall width will vary and they ride and handle like truck tires. If you want bias, go with the Silvertowns. The DB radials have a smaller diameter/circumference and to get my speedometer accurate again I had to use a driven gear from a 55 Special, which means that my effective gear ratio changed from 3.4 to 3.6 (your stick Century will go from 3.9 to 4.1). 235-75R15 will get closer to original diameter, but may rub in turns and will be heavier increasing the unsprung weight.
  20. You are lucky to have a charging problem at home or close by. All of mine happened in hot weather far away. It was never the voltage regulator although that is the first thing I changed because it was easy. Check the voltage at the battery with the engine off and then running 2000 rpm and report back.
  21. Possibly the rear lever shocks were engineered for the increased unsprung weight of the torque tube, but may be unable to cope with heavier tires.