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Everything posted by old-tank

  1. One more time: clean, inspect, restore, refurbish or replace parts as you take them off; then store them. This saves so much time doing all this when reassembly starts and you are not searching for parts at this time. But then what do I know?
  2. Nothing wrong with that. I researched and even found some examples and other than the jag rear conversion, none were satisfactory. On those the ride could be described as brutal: unexpected bumps, jolts and kicks...more truck-like than sedan. And those had noise and vibration problems too. One owner was always grinning while driving and after he gave me a ride it was probably more of a grimace. The jag conversion rode and handled well, but the experience was marred by the turbo 350 with a "shift kit". There probably is no easy way to convert the dynaflow to open drive. And even if you did the rear gears selected would work best at the original 3.4:1 ratio. 3.6, 3.9 would be more fun, but 3.2 would be a slug (like driving uphill). The converter stall, tires, engine hp/torque have been matched pretty good at the factory. Nobody can help with your noise and vibration without being there. Even then some or a lot of 'disassembly required' would follow. The original rear setup is different technology, but can be serviced and repaired. New and used parts are available and guidance is right here. If you decide to dive into the existing setup, post here or you can even PM to me for phone conversation. But always start with a service manual.
  3. ...and add in condensation inside the distributor cap and "dude you're screwed".
  4. Seems that the car was parked outside overnight. It was probably cold and humid in the morning. Gas does not vaporize well in those conditions (your last fill may have even been some less volatile summer blend fuel). 6V battery does not spin the engine as fast when cold and the slower it spins the weaker the spark. Add in a low compression engine... With a good battery it would have fired right up in the afternoon. If you can't wait, starting fluid and apply 12V (with those skinny cables) to the starter while cranking. Even when it starts it is hard to keep it running due to carburetor icing (internal) until hot air from the radiator is drawn into the carburetor. If driven year round in all conditions learn to deal with it like owners did when they were new.
  5. Good work! It took me 20 plus years to cram my shop full of cars, parts and junk. You did it in only 2 years! Makes me feel like and amateur. Good work!?
  6. if it's a bad bearing usually by applying the brakes will make the grinding noise go away.
  7. I saw a (small series) 56 Century with an adapted transmission and Jaguar xj6 rear suspension. Might be able to adapt the torque tube since the differential like the RR and Bentley is fixed. The Jag might be too narrow for the 55 Super.
  8. new battery and a shot of starter fluid too...
  9. Search "zinc" on this forum for much past discussion. Unless you have a high lift cam with heavier than stock valve springs, you don't need any added zinc. Oils today have more zinc than when these cars were new...zinc level was increased in the "muscle car era". There will always be those that caress each bottle of oil or additive while mumbling ritual incantations while it flows into the engine .
  10. Some of that vibration could have been from the ignition breaking up.
  11. A search for oil filter shelf life revealed "opinions" of 2-20 years with some discussion of media, seals, glues and rust and some storage hints (the best would be vacuum food saver bags in the freezer). I guess the only thing you can do is inspect after buying as needed. Never buy perishable items like hoses, belts, seals and probably filters from Rock Auto. Mostly old and crusty junk from long storage in defunct parts stores. They will issue a quick refund without asking for a return of the items...that should tell you something. They are a good source of part numbers to search elsewhere.
  12. Just find a way to seal at the filler.
  13. "Lifted in the air"...maybe that is where I went wrong. I drive the car over my service pit and stand at each wheel. I gave away my Mityvac before I destroyed it with a hammer. But I have developed a method that is just as easy and no spills to attack painted parts. Write your request for this info on a $50 bill.
  14. You will not get into trouble doing it that way. But be advised that vacuum bleeding never worked on my 55's with manual or power brakes. Your experience may be different.
  15. Thanks Ben. That may be the only way to go since it seems that canister base conversion is no longer available. I have also seem some conversions using a later base (401/425?) that attaches with 3 bolts and uses a different gasket. Do these later filter bases have a bypass valve...not prominent like the canister base? What filters are used?...are they getting obsolete and rare too?
  16. I think I finally found a fresh one. Started with a Carquest 85121 and the gasket was crumbling and paper dust came out of the filter. Bought at Advance auto and maybe that was understandable since Carquest is a defunct brand. They got me a Purolator L40124 in a dusty box and paper dust shook out also. A NAPA filter (1121) seems fine. I wonder if these filters are even being made fresh? I am considering "going to the dark side" and converting to a spin-on. Anyone done this lately?
  17. Steel belts don't stick to rubber for more than 5-7years.
  18. Joe, the service manual will tell you how. I don't know anything about the kit at Bob's. Bench work only. I have done a few: some parts and detail on my WEBSITE.
  19. http://buickrestorer.com/powersteeringhose.jpg Print this and the other picture I posted and take it to town with your existing high pressure hose and have one duplicated...ugly but effective!
  20. That's your problem. The original pressure hose (not the return hose) was choked down to a smaller diameter before the attachment to the steering gear; replacement hoses are one diameter and will be noisy.