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Everything posted by old-tank

  1. Vapor lock occurs on the suction side of any pump. Any pump can push fuel, but cannot always pull fuel well. An engine compartment mounted pump is useful to prime the carb on a cold engine, but is no better than the stock mechanical pump to prevent or treat vapor lock.
  2. Ok, let's get your Super ready for a road trip. First have the drums checked to see if they are still serviceable and can be turned at least one more time. Then have your brake shoes relined (clutch/brake rebuilder) with specified linings: specify softer, more aggressive material that will stop 2 tons of Buick with the least effort (over-the-counter linings are too hard). Have the new linings arced to fit specific drums and use a brake caliper to set the initial adjustment with final adjustment after assembled. Adjust again after a few hundred miles and then as needed. Replace all brake hoses and any questionable steel lines. New wheel cylinders are available at reasonable cost. Have the master cylinder resleeved and rebuilt. Clean all traces of old grease from the bearings before repacking. (modern grease is not compatible with original grease and will liquefy all over your new linings.) Change the seals in the rear axle and repack the bearings (you don't want leaks to contaminate the new shoes) Drill a hole in the bottom of the torque tube and tap for a screw so that you can drain or monitor for transmission fluid leaking past the torque ball (which can get into the differential and past the axle seals). The outer torque ball retainer can be replaced with leak free unit with vulcanized rubber along with the seal for the front of the torque tube. Have a wheel alignment done: If it is toe-out you will get all kinds of pulls to right or left during hard braking. Flush the brake fluid every 2 years and inspect the linings. You may not have to do anything else for 100,000 miles.
  3. Old tires are for museum display. The only way to check that driveshaft is to remove it and even then the CV joint may need to be disassembled and inspected. If that car has the original glued-in universal joints, take it to a driveline shop and have it rebuilt and balanced. Don't do this at home and don't take it to a local who will use a press to remove the glued universals...they will ruin it!
  4. Water temperature. Upper limit of the gauge is about 200*F. Your Super did not shut down the engine...it shut down probably due to vapor lock. All 55's need an electric fuel pump mounted near the tank due to the highly volatile available fuel. Check the temp with an IR temperature gun at the thermostat housing. Temperature will depend first on the thermostat installed and later on environmental temperature.
  5. If you are intent on doing this read (and understand) this first. Just don't use the original master cylinder like Scarebird says you can do. Any "universal" kit will require more modifications like changing the fulcrum/pedal ratio. I can help you get the stock system working better than the conversion (but you did not ask for that).
  6. Less likely to break it if you cut the gasket.
  7. If your “new and improved “ seal is a neoprene lip seal, I wish you luck. The one I tried dumped 4 quarts of oil in 20 miles. Careful checking 'after' I screwed up revealed that the seal groove in the block did not match the seal groove in the bearing cap, so the 'seal' was wiping oil to the outside. So check that the grooves match exactly (lightly clamp small pieces of cardboard between the block and bearing cap and look at the witness marks). The neoprene seal kit that I used had the lip seals and some side seals that you are supposed to expand with the supplied nail...all of those that I tried worked well on one side and was very loose on the other. Stuffing string and sealer in the cavity is messy, but effective.
  8. (probably should start a new thread on the glories of lacquer)
  9. I have a method to stop rear main seal leaks in nailheads, 263 eights and maybe others: WEBSITE Some rebuilders just squirt RTV into the cavity for the side seals where it never hardens.
  10. To be correct: bias ply with white wall starting at the rim...2.5-3" would pass.
  11. Probably would be the yellow wire. If not touching the big lug, check for voltage there...the only time it is "hot" is during cranking to bypass the ballast resistor for hotter spark. As a test you can disconnect that wire.
  12. Every time I do that they turn gray.
  13. We drive in the morning before 11am and before it hits 90*...short 40 mile trips.
  14. http://centervilleautorepair.com call, they used to supply a balancer from a 322 that was rebalanced for the 264...then you use 322 pulleys as needed.
  15. You will need the equivalent of a 3 car garage. One bay for the frame; one bay for the body; one bay for the big loose pieces like seats, dash parts, engine and tranny, fenders, hood, trunk lid.... Put the kids to work on the car and tell them it is fun play time.
  16. Yes, I use R-152a refrigerant in all the others and will eventually convert this one too. I got most of the R12 in before the spinning rocket launch...luckily my gauge set has a check valve so did not lose any from the system. We call it central heat. You cannot hold a tool at that temperature. I leave after 90* or below 50*...this is a hobby and I don't "have to" do anything if uncomfortable. That tool punctures and clamps the can from the side. Works better than the clunky R12 can tap (unless it breaks ).
  17. Or just hurry up and put it back together.
  18. I had metal one that was stolen. This plastic one is 3 years old and crumbling... and they say plastic lasts forever. And that was my last can of R12! Too hot to work in the shop anyhow.
  19. PREVIOUS DISCUSSION Using all 56 components will give the same overall length as using all 53 components...just don't mix. The shorter valves are because of the previously mentioned dome.
  20. There is an inadequate brace where the hood turns down both sides in the front. Many will crack in this location which will require welding the sheet metal and installing more bracing to bolster the area.
  21. All are flexible no bracing just learn to put up with it.
  22. Let us know which one you get and how well it works. I cannot get comfortable in the wife's 2008 Mercury Marquis with infinitely adjustable seats...and I will update if I find something first.