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old-tank

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Everything posted by old-tank

  1. Better to do it this year while the gas is cheaper.
  2. Holes or just pits? Pits: If painting good old Bondo will serve you well; if power coating then Alvin Products might work.
  3. To avoid injury or death, turn your flashlight on when around the garage. Then you can read the SIGN.
  4. Well that is a real bite when you have to modify the car or good parts to make an inferior part fit. Consider applying a rosebud torch while prying away from the frame and tightening the flange. I would be about ready to take a cutting torch to that POS crossover!
  5. No! That is not a Riviera specific topic. It is about brakes and all of our car have brakes. And it is about a disc brake conversion that maybe for once can be made to work.
  6. Gray fluid is bad! Put a drop on a very hot exhaust manifold: it should just smoke if trans fluid; if it sizzles there is water present. If water remove and plug the hoses to the cooler, drain the torque converter and remove the pan for cleaning. It is OK to drive locally for 10 mile trips. Repeat until no more water. If you leave the water it will sludge up and rust to the point that even a rebuild will not fix it. I had one like that and it was not even good for parts. If no evidence of water then some internal parts are being ground into fine particles (a magnet or filter paper
  7. Last 2 tanks Shell and Valero...suspected previously before I checked.
  8. I spent the last week (about 30-40 minutes every morning before it got hot) trying to figure out why my blue/white 55 is getting lousy mileage. It is getting 12-13 mpg and the expected mileage should be 14-16 for the same trips. It runs flawlessly. Ignition: plugs and wires good; timing good; vacuum and mechanical advance working; dwell good. Carburetor: dry outside and inside even with the electric pump running; rods working as expected; fuel pressure with and without electric pump good; electric pump has become necessary most of the time due to vapor lock and boils the gas out
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  10. Put GM (19311544) in google search...lots of offers for sale.
  11. And if the flicker rate varies with engine rpm, it could be the generator, voltage regulator, distributor, wires, etc...I have no idea how to fix.
  12. Yikes, they still cannot make 'em right. My 'adventure' was with Kepich. I thought I got lucky and tried to attach it to the manifolds with it on the engine stand...did not fit. I took it off and took to muffler shop where they expanded one end. Got it to fit with the other end one inch into the expanded end. Clamped 2 pieces of split exhaust pipe and took back to the muffler shop to weld. Fit well now and good to go, right? Wrong! After installing engine and crossover, the flange angle to exhaust pipe was wrong. Cut a wedge out and clamped again and back to muffler shop to weld. It
  13. Don"t let them tell you that flushing will fix it. The only way to service a radiator is to disassemble and rod out and if it cannot stand up to that then a new core. And 210* is not too hot. With a good pressure cap it will go over 250* before boiling over. If the temperature rises in traffic consider a new fan clutch.
  14. YOUR service manual indicates 10-15 ft lbs
  15. And dual exhaust (loud). You may need to relocate the steering box and/or use a mini-starter. Less trouble than the 235 and less work since you will not change back to the straight eight.
  16. Drunk! That's what happens when you spike the gasoline with ethanol!
  17. In Texas we would call that an Aggie joke!
  18. Another choice for WWW? HERE They are less expensive than Coker and Diamondback, but I don't like the choices of tire to put the whitewall on. For those that like the radial ride and handling characteristics, but don't drive much, it could be a good choice?
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