buick man

Great points ... what I have done for at least the last 15 years is when winterizing in the fall I have a couple 5 gallon cans of real gas (non alcohol) that I get from either the marina or local municipal airstrip and put my favorite cocktail of fuel enzymes and stabilizers mixed well into it. Then hook my external fuel extractor unit to the detached incoming steel or rubber line of the fuel pump to it. It sucks most if not all the fuel out of the tank. Then reinstall the line and fill the tank up with about 2 gallons then start the car up and let it idle for about 5 minutes. This flushes the complete system. The external fuel extractor I use is battery operated and has a 1/2 id open hose with adaptors on one end and a hand held dispersal nozzle on the other end. I can use it to suck gas out of the vehicle tank as noted or use it to suck gas out of jerry cans or fuel containers to fill up with. Works simple and quick. But yes corn-a-ol wanna be gas gummy bears, coats, dissolves, separates and corrodes on a linear time basis meaning it worsens as it sets longer with time. In the spring the fuel is still fresh, no dried gaskets etc. just prime, spin and then start.

91vert: We would recommend : 1) Using this source for the carb rebuild parts for a multiple of reasons : http://www.daytonaparts.com/kits.html 2) Ideally, either recondition and reuse your original leather accelerator push rod get your hands on a leather replacement accelerator plunger and not a -plastic one. 3) Get your hands on 5 gallons of real gas not ethanol gas to do your startup after rebuilding the carb to spec as ethanol has a way of changing the fuel volumetric's to that of real gas that the original carb was spec'ed for. Makes getting everything set right before you put it into service then you can either recurve the distributor or tweak the idle circuit to accommodate the gas-o-hol volumetric's by way of adding an electric pusher pump near the gas tank. ... just a few nods of advice.

Just picked up what was reported to be an NOS torque ball boot for the 57 Buick. Received it but there are no markings nor part numbers anywhere on the rubber. I seem to recall some years ago I had one with the box and it had numbers embossed on the side. Could this even be the right one or worse a NORS one ? I did not get the box with the sale as I thought I would ... Anyone ? Below is the sale photo:

Here's a variety of 1957 heavy metal rides on this episode of Highway Patrol ... Buick, Dodge, Mercury, Ford and others ... pick out your favorite. It seems they all were equipped with posi traction and even when new these cars appear to have quite a bite and bark to the exhaust tone .... what with the 57 Police Special Buick having a possible beef'ed up 364 10:1 in it and this 57 Dodge with that tel-tale solid lifter 392 Hemi chatter. The 55 fords have their distinctive hollow Y-block sound and the Mercury is predictably throaty with what may be a 430 in it ?

... This is great and thanks for taking the time to post this which I think many perceive this whole process as daunting at best ...and with a video to boot ! Some of us here are challenged in just attempting to post a photo ... ; )

Just a note, another culprit for mimicking this kind of cascaded movement can be in an incorrectly tension set outer wheel bearing or even a sudden internal fated failing wheel bearing while still rendering no noise when checked with a quick outer jerk or spin of the tire. If you cannot discern aberrant improper seated ball joint movement, then I would tear down that wheel's spindle components and remove, check and repack and make a point of properly torque seating of that outer wheel bearing once again. As this has happened to me and found it worked out even though I had worked on that wheel/spindle just a couple months prior and assumed everything I had done was proper because I had done this operation many times before over the years. Sometimes we get interrupted during the teardown / reassembly process and then all bets are off.

Exactly lance ... guesstimate 1 full Saturday and possibly part of a Sunday ... put on stock hubcaps and do a number on the existing chrome bright work and it would look like a different car entirely. Looks like it sat and sat inside somewhere for a good stretch. That haze on the passenger's side is most likely the lacquer that has sweated and powdered. Cut and polish. Forgot to grab the price and the seller's phone or email.

Here is the listing: https://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/d/clayton-1950-buick-super-eight/6849535359.html

Yeah it is absolutely really nice car for sure and saw this episode years ago. One comment I have is the guy says .... "unrestored just the way I found it" ... If that is the case, and definitely no bad intended to the owner, ... If this car indeed sat for any length of time before he got it and even regardless if it had not and only had been driven 1 mile a month since new, I doubt seriously if the engine bay would present with such clean shiny painted surfaces especially on the valve covers considering old single stage factory enamel would surface fade and easily chip with the heat, wear and tear and compounding years. So my guess is the engine bay has definitely been massaged and prep'ed more than just a little.

.... great find Ed and what a comparison. Some years back the secret sauce in WD40 wash fish oil believe it not .. and none of these are actually oil base but are fluid based. It is interesting to see good ol' ATF which is no surprise but with acetone mixed into it that puzzles us. Acetone which of course is a very volatile ketone, which one would expect to evaporate within minutes once exposed to air is accredited to this mix. It would be interesting to see what the torque difference would be with just ATF alone without the acetone mix. In the past I have used ATF as a stand alone for removing oxidative blush off of metal surfaces, now I use M. Mystery Oil which again is actually a fluid and not an oil, as my go to for surface oxidation tasks. For example, like when you get that old car home the first day and the engine bay area components have all blushed with dull pink surface oxidation. Just spray a heavy load over all the surface areas under the hood and then walk away. Come back in a month or so and open the hood. The engine compartment will have that driver car used everyday look, just like as if you have been running the car full time and just shut it off last week as all the surface blush will have vanished.

These are truly gorgeous and what a really priceless find indeed. The 51-52 club man should not pass on these. Eric if you can try and make a xerox copy of these instructions and post them in the library to posterity.

... so can anyone tell us all what should the best kit be composed of and where would one get that best most complete kit ?

... well truth be told my take is I don't really use WD40 on anything anymore cause it causes rust just ask anyone who has owned and lived on a boat like I did for 15 yrs can tell you; As for PB Blaster it should have a skull and bones emblem on the front of it ( the smell alone is a clue ) ... so the real GO-TO for this guy is LU103 made by Sprayon T.M. . It works like a blow torch in a silk glove and it's pleasantly Vanilla scented as well. Here is the link : https://www.sprayon.com/product/lu103-high-performance-rust-penetrant-rust-breaker/ After getting to a point in time and starting to react to nouscious crap I had to find something that would work and not have the neighbors calling the EPA so found 103 and haven't looked back.

Wow this is one great nice retro collection you don't want to miss ... gee now I want my shop to look like some of these and the stairs that say BUICK is at the top too !

well regardless what kind of lubricant you use or how much heat one would think for sure just standing there and beating against your nuts will get them off real fast but ya gotta be careful, after all you could damage them, so if your real careful you can keep em in good condition and have them ready to use over and over again if'in they're not all scraped up gouged and damaged.