buick man

... well to confuse or relate, we know it ain't a 50 and if you do go 12volt ... perhaps this thought process flow chart is similar to your situation since a new starter is in order while keeping the push start function :

Jim: Look no further. Contact Wade and he will set up a proper and improved water pump. Ask him to give you a propeller vane with more vanes on it than stock for improve cooling capacity flow. He can even find you the right water pump with the period correct water pump for you or rebuild yours and improve upon it with a heavier bearing and increase vane. - Come back and let us know how things turned out. http://www.water-pump-rebuilders.com/contact.html

Well there are some antidotal original factory and era correct photos via articles and a service bulletin showing the tank filter unit and how to torque it properly. The actual installment of the glass filters was accomplished on the ground in real time at the dealers and at service stations. This was a change that occurred without factory oversight nor I believe an actual corrective bulletin being being sent out by the factory. There was no defective occurrences due to this setup. It was just found in the field to be inconvenient and time consuming dealing with the tank as mentioned above. Most cars as time went by changed over to the glass bowl setup as that is what was being used up till about 1964 or so until at least until metal inline filters started showing up as a factory equipped install. Below are some archival material I have on hand. The last is a jpg from an article I had accumulated somewhere along the line and it shows a factory engine with diagram highlights. Notice no glass bulb filter. In the Buick advertising campaign for 57, they really touted the all rubber line as really a neat new idea instead of a metal line that could get damaged or rust out.

Thanks brothers I appreciate your comments. Actually, as you all probably know, the 1957 Buicks if you want to be spot on correct did not come with any engine mounted filter from the factory. Buick tried a new all rubber line system from tank to fuel pump and someone in the bean counting department thought it would be a great idea to premount a filter fitted in the tank only and then just simply run a rubber line forward to the fuel pump. Kinda like a quick and sassy version of using an electrical extension cord instead of hard wiring a dedicated circuit. This would save Buick assembly line time and money doing it this way. Another rubber line went from the fuel pump straight to the carb. Quick and easy. Well it didn't take long before the dealers started to complain and the customers as well, since one would have to drain the gas tank first in order to change the only filter which was in the tank. So, at the dealers and backyards everywhere out came the tank filter, a new fitting installed to replace the fitting provided by the tank filter and as well back again came the glass bulb fuel filter attached the engine bracket. The bracket I have been told was first used as a connection point to connect the rubber hose from the fuel pump up to the bracket effectively splitting the factory jobs then another hose from the bracket up to the carb. That way it could be split if need be or a glass bulb filter installed.

Lance: Yes thanks I know of that source ... However guess I just have to feed my Fetish for All Original ! 😉 ... With that said just purchased an all original Carter unit to match my Carter 2507S but now most likely will have trouble getting a seal and filter for it ... ughh

Yes, I am searching for a factory period correct A/C Delco Fuel Filter Assembly complete with glass bowl ready to attach to engine bracket as used on 57, 58, 59 & 60. These did not have the nut on top of the unit for attaching. These years attach to the engine mounted bracket by the outlet which goes through this bracket. Really nice would be a A/C Ceramic filter to go with it. I took mine of and it is now M.I.A. . I have another one but it has the bolt at the top to hang from the bracket but I believe it is from a straight eight job. Anyone have an extra or even and NOS ... let me know.

Bill : Just a suggestion but perhaps a photo shoot session of your customized hand-made adjusting bracket or a diagram of it and what you used to begin with would be very useful for future wannabees going this route.

Just a guess and inductive reasoning task on my part looking at the boot. Chris how long have you had yours mounted and on which year Buick ? Beamon: ........ " The accelerator rod goes through the firewall and is not all that far from the exhaust manifold. " .... about 5 inches or so .... The NOS factory one I had seen some years ago was notably thicker. Of course this one I got also does not look like EPDM. Suppose for the price I could perform a heat test using my infared tool and see what happens. If I end up using with over 50 years of wrenching on cars gives me the gut feeling that at least greasing the accelerator rod with some red rubber grease is in order ...

Well the long block appears to have the brackets for the A/C compressor which would mount via these brackets over the top of the generator as pictured in the photo. But that is all we get from just the photo of the engine in the back of a pickup. The firewall on the actual Buick would have a rectangular looking box on the passenger side and most likely will have the small rectangular Harrison logo plate badge attached to it on the top of the box. That is where the evaporator is located.

BornB & Lance: Yes lacquer is soooo sexy and nice to spray out especially if you have your chops down with single stage urethanes . bc/cc jobs are the air headed street hooker looker of paint jobs ... all shine and no depth. Single stage urethanes however can be manipulated to look like true lacquer but minus the intense hue and depth but very close proximity. Just use a blending agent with the single stage urethanes and reduce heavily on the last 3 coats. Drips and runs can be cut out with a razor blade, sanded then spot painted. Clear coats are only as good as the depth of the clear coat. Bite into the base coat and you pay.

Bump ....Interesting ... A restorer would possibly like the idea of you selling both the coupe and the sedanette as a package deal.

Great it will be good to look them over. Regarding the paint on the passenger's front fender. It definitely looks like lacquer and would be an easy fix just a full days prep and to get by quickly just tape off the upper fender stainless trim as shown in the photo and paper off the surrounding areas. Wash the area well with Dove dish detergent, Wax and Grease removal applied/wiped off, 220 the surface, lacquer prime out the area and let it set for 2-weeks, wet sand 400, Dove detergent wash, Grease & Wax rub down, tack rag the surface, then lacquer paint it in shifts of 2 coats at a time leaving about 1 to 2 weeks between coats and totally prevents all those stories you hear about lacquer paint jobs being bad due to later dye back/cracking/shrinkage problems etc. Lacquer paint is not the problem it was because it was applied wrong. If you hammer on lacquer paint coats all in one session then it will bite you trapping all the solvent thinners between coats and not allowing them to evaporate ) So then lightly hit areas with 400, blow off surface, tack rag then apply another 2 coats and repeat the same process and set time till you have 10 coats applied ( 5 separate painting sessions as this will give you paint thickness needed to color sand later without sanding to primer ), then color sand, buff out. Then wait about 2 months leaving the car in the sun for the last 2 weeks with a cover over it, then wax the car. You can do all the painting outside if you have to on a low to no wind day like in the early morning hours. The biggest time consumer will be to match the color to the existing paint. TCP can do that for you and do a pretty good job of it if you have a part you can send them with the existing paint on it like a headlight rim or such. They can also sell you separate tints that goes into the paint if you need to tweak it onsite. Just have them create a match formula so you can have them easily repeat the process if more paint is needed later on.

Hey guys. Purchased the CARS Inc accelerator bellows boot for one of my 57's . It arrived as a very astonishingly "thin" rubber mil wall thickness and it is composed of what appears to be that shiny injection molded rubber that does I have found does not hold up to heat. The movement of the accelerator pedal rod through it would most likely stress and tear the bellows in no time flat. Anyone with experience with this CARS bellows ? With that said, It does not have that EPDM class dull deep look to it. So asking if anyone knows of a non copycat supplier source for a quality correct bellows boot. The accelerator rod goes through the firewall and is not all that far from the exhaust manifold. I realize back in the day they did not have EPDM but most likely made the bellow wall thick to help withstand this heated area and continued flexing of the rod action through it.

PM to you regarding parts.

Looks to us like an older aging restoration via the standards of most likely the 80's. Underbody and frame just too nice and clean for this old lady. Also, have never seen a dash of the late forties or for that matter early 50's painted the same primary color as the body if the body color was white or yellow. It would be hard to see through the reflections off the dash / windshield therefore for safety sakes most likely not factory but I could be wrong as that has been known to happen. Someone has already taken the engine out and detailed it as well. Here are a few photos for posterity of this $ 22,000 to $ 25,000 convertible that recently sold not at this auction but afterwards. 7 years ago this car would of most likely sold for double this even with the passenger fender paint condition. btw: if this is lacquer the repaint in various areas is a simple task. Lacquer melts into the existing paint and you have to color sand the coats anyways bugs, drips or what have you. Last few coats thin out 100 to 150 percent and blend in. Easiest paint to repair. I see know time consuming Arts n Crafts projects in this car ... Just drive it and stun the masses :