buick man

Thanks Lance but I'll go with this one. The older NOS ones may or may not have internal or paper issues due to age or latent storage issues.

Thanks guys, I purchased the Baldwin P-25 filter. I have run Baldwin on my other everyday cars due to their overall specs. Did not know they even made these canister filters for our cars. I'll see how they look and work.

I found a Baldwin P-25 canister element that uses Hydro-shield technology for improved supposedly performance better than just paper based. Anyone tried this one : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HJJZY?tag=oilfilter-text-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1&ref_=nav_youraccount_switchacct&returnFromLogin=1

I went through may shelved stash of oil filter canisters that lasted me years now I need to restock. I had some NAPA GOLD USA Made p/n 1121 canisters. Currently, I found on ebay a canister filter that the seller reports to be made by WIX. Comes with corked ends just like my NAPA ones had. Of course all the A/C, Napa and WIX filter units are paper based. Also at this time, I am not interested in changing over to spin on filters although I do have a 59 base filter boss for the adaption sitting on my shelf. So short question is what are you " period correct " guys using for a filter source ? Thanks in advance

... I would try an electric pusher fan first if overheating or fuel issues are present. I think a lot of shrouds were installed at the factory around the same time air conditioning and clutch fans and such become prevalent and more common because of the varying draw and drag idle characteristics of the fan clutch.

Well with a little more research and for all you curious minds out there ... yes there is a gasket called " oil pump gasket " group no,. 1.652 which is also the oil pump rebuild kit which contains the gasket. However the gasket itself is part no. 1174285. It has 1 - large center hole for the oil flow, 2- outer holes for the bolts, and a offset smaller hole for the vacuum pump function. The 1955-56 only had a 2-hole gasket because those years did not have the vacuum pump attached to the oil pump like the 1957-58 only combo vacuum/oil pump setup had.

Looked it up in my factory parts book and apparently there is a gasket listed which I assume is suppose to go between the mount end of the oil pump and the block boss area. 2-bolts secure it and I believe they are 9/16 heads. I just don't recall a gasket being there when I removed the oil pan and pump and my NOS oil pump rebuild kit did not come with one. I left the 2 bolts there and if there would have been a gasket I would of left that too ... just something I do. Any info on this - thanks in advance, Dave

Late to the party but fellas, come on your a tuff room to work ... The car is a dedicated survivor and at 30k to boot. Many bonus points here throughout the car with minor fixes required. If you want a car with a max of replaced parts and items then buy a fully restored car but then again it wouldn't be a 30k survivor. The car is not selling cause no one in this market has disposable cash during these times and are hunkering down. Go over to bat and that crowd has too much disposable cash and love to buy such things like 7k trunk luggage sets and 4k timer watch sets and an assortment of shiny plastic European rides ... so go figure. Just my little mini rant 🤔

Well original interior, good rubber seals, original trunk ... a lot new parts going for it all there and pretty much an unmolested car. Just get rid of the mod deep dish wheels. But $12.000 is for low fruit pickers not serious buyers.

Let's go for little moonlight drive - Fasten your seat belst when you climb into this 57 Roadie Coupe cause it could get a .... well just a little swervev !!!! Just dig that color man.

Gosh the last time I did this on another about 14 years ago it was a hard find parts safari ... So the Jersey Boys have them. Lancemb was it a complete match-up I.D. and O.D. and thickness wise ? ... Seem to recall that was the non-match problem I had back then. Dave

Hello All .... Hoping to find a source to obtain the required front Strut Rod Bushings and Rear Radius Bar Bushing. According to my Master Chassis Book, 1956-60 All, Group 5.384, PN 1170039 ( 2 each ) for the front Strut Rod Bushing, .... And for the Rear Radius Rod Bushing, ( aka Bushing Track Bar ) Group 5.417, PN 1941-58 All PN 1305839 ( 4each ) So if anyone has replaced theirs with the above correct bushings, please let me know who and where. I thought I would post this before going on an extended Parts Safari .... Thanks in advance, Dave

Hello All .... Hoping to find a source to obtain the required front Strut Rod Bushings and Rear Radius Bar Bushing. According to my Master Chassis Book, 1956-60 All, Group 5.384, PN 1170039 ( 2 each ) for the front Strut Rod Bushing, .... And for the Rear Radius Rod Bushing, ( aka Bushing Track Bar ) Group 5.417, PN 1941-58 All PN 1305839 ( 4each ) So if anyone has replaced theirs with the above correct bushings, please let me know who and where. I thought I would post this before going on an extended Parts Safari .... Thanks in advance, Dave

And gotta love that Space Commander Instrument cluster and dash board. Fasten your seatbelts were getting the signal to launch !

... and I wouldn't hesitate to agree. Nice, Nice.

Thanks guys for your input. That is what I was thinking as well about the date of the parts book. No doubt an older book should list the fronts. I have NOS Delco's for the front but the earlier version not the Pleasurizer line which was greater in diameter and had superior valving etc.

I have a 1960 Buick dash mounted clock but without the base and fuse line ( 1-amp ?? I'm guessing) . So if anyone has the dash mount base with the fuse line intack that would be great. BTW what is the amp of the fuse to the clock. They were tiny ?

I got hold of Delco Pleasurizer P/N book that goes up to 1970. It states for the 1956 the fronts would be P-1006 and the rears P-1011 and for HD P-2006 Front but no P/N for rears. For 1957 just a dash for fronts and for rears the same as the 1956 P/N P- 1011. Now I am no expert on 56 Buicks but realize the 56 had no ball joints and a different upper and lower control arm configuration and perch so the shock inner guts would need to be different as to length of travel etc. What does this dash mean and/or by 1970 the 1957 fronts were NLA ??

Curious as to what u are attempting to do with this seat solenoid ?

Not so quick ... rust free car, just a little "keep it that way " patina on paint, great chrome and dash, shows decent charmed engine bay preservation ... and if the bottom is as well cared and preserved then I'd say a solid 10k ride at least unless someone is looking for low hanging fruit just may have to look elsewhere as we think the seller has a pretty good idea of what he has.

We bid you all Buick Brethren ... A Happy and Fulfilling up and coming NEW YEAR - May you complete, preserve and or cherish all of what needs or has been done and to be free to continue and move on.

Yes all everyone says has truth and meaning yet if it is indeed completely rotisserie as stated and the photos prove this, then it is indeed worth what is asked. If tin can 911 P-cars can go for this as a # 3 ride then this this should do well IF there is someone where this rocks their boat. Classic cars hold personalized classic memories for those who can identify of that time and place and were there at some point and can truly appreciate the car for what it is. A personalized time machine and as such can also be said of the classic car hobby as well. Though truth be told one would have to be in their late 60's by now at a minimum to have any such personalize memories and that market grows smaller every year.

Kasper ... Here is the story behind the size change instructions. The resonators were installed from the factory on dual exhaust equipped jobs only. The factory early to mid run jobs all had 2-inch I.D. exhaust systems all the way from front to back. Then apparently some customer exhaust noise complaints begun what with the combination of the higher lift cam and higher compression the Century, Super and Roadmasters 364 came with and produced too much idle lump and launch exhaust noise or so in the subjective opinion of a good amount of new car owners. So to appease those complaints the factory sent out a bulletin advising that a replacement system would now be produced with 1-3/4 inch I.D.end pipes in an attempt to quiet the exhaust output and thus the factory instruction sheet you have posted was made available along with a new 1-3/4 I.D. tail end piece. This was done in an attempt to " quiet " the claimed exhaust noise and complaints until the factory could produce the entire exhaust system in 1-3/4 inch I.D. from front muffler to resonator to end tail pipe. For 1958 jobs all the systems front to back were 1-3/4 I.D. On a side note, one may if real lucky still find the early job NOS factory front mufflers ( A dual paired muffler ) that are in the original 2-inch I.D. configuration along with the rear resonators but are by this time very rare and I have only seen perhaps 2 or 3 available NOS factory front mufflers ( 2-inch ) for sale in perhaps 12 years. The 2-inch I. D. resonators however are still popping up from time to time as NOS aftermarket units now and then but predominately as 1-3/4 I.D. units.

Nice ride. Yeah apparently the manufacturers had a lot of government surplus green paint bought on the cheap to use up during and a couple years after the Korean Conflict in the early 50's. At no other time frame were so many cars minted out the door in green of one tone or another.

O.K. ... So I see how it works now with the sub link at the top of the actual Buick Buy/Sell page. I did not find that Link last night and instead went to the AACA forum table and found that Not Mine link which included every make and model. True, having the Buick Buy/Sell Parts and the Buick-Not Mine postings all on one page co-mingled as it were, was most convenient. However, now understanding that those listing for selling or wanting to buy parts should not be overwhelmed by NoT Mine listings and pushed down the preferences of pages created created a struggle. So in retrospect I believe Lamar was right in creating an easy sub listing link at the top of the Buy/Sell page if someone wants to just be intertained while still giving the sellers and want to buy folks their due quality of time for page space.