old-tank

A search for oil filter shelf life revealed "opinions" of 2-20 years with some discussion of media, seals, glues and rust and some storage hints (the best would be vacuum food saver bags in the freezer). I guess the only thing you can do is inspect after buying as needed. Never buy perishable items like hoses, belts, seals and probably filters from Rock Auto. Mostly old and crusty junk from long storage in defunct parts stores. They will issue a quick refund without asking for a return of the items...that should tell you something. They are a good source of part numbers to search elsewhere.

Just find a way to seal at the filler.

"Lifted in the air"...maybe that is where I went wrong. I drive the car over my service pit and stand at each wheel. I gave away my Mityvac before I destroyed it with a hammer. But I have developed a method that is just as easy and no spills to attack painted parts. Write your request for this info on a $50 bill.

You will not get into trouble doing it that way. But be advised that vacuum bleeding never worked on my 55's with manual or power brakes. Your experience may be different.

Thanks Ben. That may be the only way to go since it seems that canister base conversion is no longer available. I have also seem some conversions using a later base (401/425?) that attaches with 3 bolts and uses a different gasket. Do these later filter bases have a bypass valve...not prominent like the canister base? What filters are used?...are they getting obsolete and rare too?

I think I finally found a fresh one. Started with a Carquest 85121 and the gasket was crumbling and paper dust came out of the filter. Bought at Advance auto and maybe that was understandable since Carquest is a defunct brand. They got me a Purolator L40124 in a dusty box and paper dust shook out also. A NAPA filter (1121) seems fine. I wonder if these filters are even being made fresh? I am considering "going to the dark side" and converting to a spin-on. Anyone done this lately?

Steel belts don't stick to rubber for more than 5-7years.

Actually Oct 2016.

Joe, the service manual will tell you how. I don't know anything about the kit at Bob's. Bench work only. I have done a few: some parts and detail on my WEBSITE.

http://buickrestorer.com/powersteeringhose.jpg Print this and the other picture I posted and take it to town with your existing high pressure hose and have one duplicated...ugly but effective!

Original style hose.

That's your problem. The original pressure hose (not the return hose) was choked down to a smaller diameter before the attachment to the steering gear; replacement hoses are one diameter and will be noisy.

Did you change the hoses?

not unless you are going to remove the rear end. in this case you're just stabilizing it so you can pull from the front

Rocket science secret: come-along from axle to rear frame.

Heat with no circulation after shutdown is causing the fuel in the line to vaporize...that's the bubbling you hear.

Yep. I will be the first to tell those misguided individuals to just stay out of this forum. Keep posting with pictures of that nice car!

Ok, so it is back together and runs. Now we need a drive report, cranking compression and comparison to the previous build. You have stock 56 cam (I had been told that was the most aggressive cam in a nailhead --- sometimes causing complaints about lumpy idle from the blue hairs that drove Buicks); stock piston configuration vs the aftermarket "compromise' pistons; the 1:6 ratio rockers that replaced stock 1:5 were used again; might have to line up a drag race with a 56 Super . I am guessing premium gas will be required...hopefully the extra fun will be worth it!!

THIS might be a better choice for your Roadmaster if you want to go with bias-ply. I have used many sets of the the BFG tires and they performed well except for the low mileage (15,000 miles). I bought a set of the zig-zag tread under Coker Classic brand and they are horrible tires: Ride and drive like 8 ply truck tires at all pressures. Radials? Don't consider anything but Diamondback where you can even specify WWW width.

Easy in a 55. You need one!

There is an attached dynaflow. Dynaflow is a contraction of "does not float".

yes

Never did it any other way😀.

Try the back of the engine...may have to move the points to adjust. Just do it!

THIS beauty ring that I bought for my Ford truck was exactly like the ones that came on my Buick...and much cheaper than Buick suppliers. Caps should be easy; clips if not present are hard to find. If those Coker Classics are bias ply, you can count on another 10 years out of them unless flat spotted from sitting.