old-tank

And there needs to be a breather on the oil fill tube, not a cap.

The meet is one thing, getting there is another. My 1200 mile trip will (hopefully) have fuel availability, but depending on restrictions there may not be easy to find accommodations or dining.

Yes, it is just a switch like the points. The coil is wired through the ballast resistor. The diagram in your service manual shows the original wiring.

You need to replicate that technique...it works.

When the starter is cranking it bypasses the ballast resistor to deliver a little extra (left over) voltage to the coil. If the ballast resistor is bad, it will fire but not continue running. If you use Pertronix wire it through the ballast resistor same as the original points. If wired directly to 12v the hotter spark will burn the rotor. And use a stock coil, not the one from Pertronix. Burn the rotor...literally! This unique rotor has a carbon rod between the center and tip and will catch fire and burn.

Drive shafts are different.

Tip: The top bolt on the starter is the hardest to access. Remove it first. I use a short open end wrench, others use a thin wall box end wrench with a curve.

Pictures?

Sleeve? Then how will you install the bolts to the torque ball?

You will be just chasing your tail. When my 55 with original upholstery was about 60 years old the foam turned to power and had that replaced. Not long after that the the seams started opening due to rotten thread...had that repaired. A year later the actual seat cloth upholstery started tearing and separating and the the vinyl developed a sticky surface which could be cleaned but lasted only a few weeks. I worked with SMS to get some original fabric and vinyl and that for sure will outlast me!

I thought that 'PC' meant "personal computer"....not "politically correct".

yeah, right Bob....those parts are old stock USA pieces and i only have to do it every 30,000 miles (my pertronix lasted less than 5,000 miles)

Looks like it was driving (too) fast on a muddy road, probably following another bootlegger.

"Buick engine test facility at the Buick plant in Flint MI October 1954"

Ebay...look up by part number. No supplied grease. I use Silglyd on the cam. These points have a wick that supposedly supplies lube.

If adding shims on the left side does not help, you may have to take it to a frame shop. I replaced the springs on the rear of my 76 Olds royale with no change in the unevenness. Turned out that the frame was twisted (found out later that the car fell off the train or truck and they 'fixed it' and sold it to me anyway)

Was it level before these replacements?

Springs not equal or bent/twisted frame. Swap springs or stack spacers on the low spring.

Driving the Century is the best therapy of all!

I hope this is recent work, which means you are feeling better.

Yes

Simple Green

https://www.bobdrake.com/ Search trunk mats and insulation

Check the height at the frame.