old-tank

Use the original system for heat, defrost and vent. For a/c under dash unit will cool best. There is limited room for a clean install of those combo units.

FEL-PRO FS7613SH2 High compression 0.015 embossed steel. These gaskets have a coating the aids sealing, but I spray with K&W 401612 Copper Coat Aerosol. Never have needed to check torque.

Fan belt off...don't want to run the water pump dry. Usually 2 minutes will get the cylinder head up to 150*. Another reason for doing this is that if there is a problem and reason to tear into it again, there is no water or coolant to deal with.

I've always done it that way since my mentor long ago said to do it. The idea is that the cylinder head will get hot and expand and push against the gasket and there's no water in the way to compromise a seal. Never a failure.

Set it at 5-7 and call it good. And move on to other projects.

An old Chiltons manual says 375rpm. Anyhow, apply the parking brake, chock the wheels, carb off the fast idle cam, put it in drive and you will be close enough. (just don't forget and rev the engine at this point)

That works too.

I forgot about hand cleaner. "the difference between a mechanic and a surgeon is that the mechanic washes his hands before going to the restroom"

Very short list. Gasket set, main bearing set, timing chain, solvents, sealers. 3 months. Tools made: valve spring compressor, bearing shell extractor. Less than $500. But good to have an old friend back in service.

Linkage return spring. May have to lengthen throttle rod. Pic of spring connection?

Measuring dwell with electronic ignition is meaningless. The vacuum gauge fluctuations are probably due to unequal lobes in the distributor. Idle down? Engine dies before the idle gets down to that RPM or physically cannot turn screws to get it down to that RPM. Return spring location incorrect?

these are the Remflex gas gets used on a 1955 Buick. Make note of the numbers so I don't have to look it up for you in my files since they aren't listed on their website for a 55 Buick. And if you don't of course I'll cheerfully look them up for you. 😁 Looking up at the exhaust flange where the gasket goes. In the past I've used tape or adhesive to hold the gasket in place while I assembled the exhaust pipe. So why didn't anybody tell me to use a rubber band?

All assembled except for the air conditioning compressor so it's time to start it. With a fire extinguisher and pressurized hose nearby I hooked up the battery and there was no smoke or sparks. Activated the electric fuel pump ...no leaks. Turned on the ignition and pressed the gas pedal and... Clunk Again clunk (WTH)... I had just rolled engine over to verify the timing marks with the distributor. Activated the starter from under the hood and there was sparking at the battery: loose battery cable. Corrected that and it fired on the first piston up. I let it run for a couple of minutes to expand the cylinder head against the gasket and then after a little cool down I added water. With water in the system I ran it for another 30 minutes no leaks, system pressurized. And this time good oil pressure! Idle is a little high so I need to check for vacuum leaks and set the timing and take it for a test run. Find my friends again put the hood on so I can take it out and drive it like I stole it.

Harmon Classic Brakes used to sell all those parts that you need.

I worked and worked to get mine sealed up tighter than a bull's ass in fly season. I was happy with the results until I opened the vent and then it was screaming like a banshee. Try without the vent or try cracking a window.

6 volt batteries require a longer charge time usually overnight versus 2 to 3 hours for a 12 volt battery. The later 320 engines used a smaller belt and pulley, maybe you can find some to swap.

Looking at the car I have only a couple of days work to get it finished which will turn into two weeks.

A few comments on the install. I was lucky enough to have a couple of friends come over at the same time. Both are knowledgeable on tools and cars and everything went smoothly. One asked what size the tool needed for the engine stand to engine was. I went to get a power tool to zip it off and when I turned around he already had it loose and the other guy had the engine swinging over the car. A little dancing with the transmission jack load leveler, engine hoist and frame jack and it was mated and the lower bell housing bolts were installed. The hood which is on top of the car was moved to saw horses and the car was pushed out of that bay to the bay that has my service pit. All that took less than an hour and since they came over early I didn't even want any beer.

I'm afraid to ask.

Richard

There is another word I could have used, but it is a little raunchy for this forum.

Y'all probably think that I spent my time installing those parts yesterday. Wrong again Buick breath! The time was spent dinking around with the accelerator and stator control linkage and the &$#+@ driver side exhaust manifold which installs from the bottom on power steering cars.

I'm not going to paint anything this time just repair what's broken. Couldn't stand it.

Magnets

I was actually able to get into the engine compartment on top of the engine to install the upper bell housing bolts... And remarkably I was able to get back out.