Jump to content

old-tank

Members
  • Content Count

    6,804
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    24

Everything posted by old-tank

  1. Describe or take a picture of this item so I know what you are talking about. Describe your procedure for bleeding brakes.
  2. Disconnect the vacuum advance set with the engine idling as low as possible (300rpm). Mine likes 7 degrees with the available fuel. Valves are not adjustable. Disconnect the coil and crank with the throttle wide open. Follow directions on YOUR gauge pertaining to hook up. Record findings.
  3. Yes, really: it is a stupid ugly vehicle
  4. Pressurize the tank with low pressure air which will push gas to the pump and carb or show leaks that are keeping the pump from pumping.
  5. Just change jelly-bodied to jelly bean.
  6. What does your service manual say? Replace the gasket and use the one that was functioning on the the car. The original WCFB is best for your car.
  7. WHEN it pops out again, you can limp home: just tie a string at the carb and feed it through the vent window. After a few miles you will get the coordination down like you did it all your life.
  8. Give me a flashlight and some knee pads and I will look at it to be sure it is correct.
  9. Anything 'dug up' is junk like yours and will soon fail like twice on mine (far from home). I used something like this: HERE I cut and treaded the end of the old rod...
  10. Is that transmission pan stock for that car or did I miss the upgrade?
  11. Smart or lucky that you kept the original carb... Too many times when I bought 'rebuilt' units, it turned out that I was buying someone else's trouble, and especially true of carburetors.
  12. Take a break and go for a drive in your other one...then dive in! Sanding off the guide coat means it is 90% finished.
  13. Have you found the starter relay? Contacts can stick and cause cranking anytime the key is on. High resistance at the rivets inside will result in less than optimal voltage to the solenoid causing those contacts to stick causing cranking without input and even cranking after running. I usually go to the carb switch first, but seldom find a problem there...it is usually the starter relay.
  14. That bumper amplifies the "sad face" look.
  15. I found wires inside and outside the distributor HERE. You have to search or call.
  16. You described a solenoid sticking which is due to a low voltage condition. Be sure all cables, connections and grounds are good. It may even be due to defective starter relay if equipped. Also 6 volt batteries are slow to charge: 12-24 hours with most chargers.
  17. The meat's gonna spoil before you get it home.
  18. Also with Chevy suppliers never ask if it will fit a Buick; never tell them you want to try it on Buick; never tell them you tried and it and did not fit a Buick. The hassle of returns on their end is not worth it for them.
  19. Sure, but everything needs to come out the rear...and the driveshaft separated from the pinion. Fix the tranny leak into the torque tube and any gear oil leakage is easy to fix.
  20. Fix the leak at the torque ball to torque tube interface, drill a hole in the bottom of the torque tube (tap and install a machine screw) at the rear to drain or monitor fluid in the torque tube, change the rear gear oil. Do not try to replace the pinion seal unless you have a reason to service bearings or gears: the whole rear needs to be disassembled. Even with no pinion seal the gear lube will find a level in the torque tube below the driveshaft. Any external leaks can be addressed with a bead of RTV after cleaning. The original lube was 90 weight; I use 85w-140 with good results.
  21. Service manual states to set initial timing at 5*...I set mine at 7*. Set with it barely ticking over (300 RPM)with the vacuum advance disconnected. Bringing up the rpm should get another 10* (approx from the centrifugal advance) and connecting the vacuum advance another 10* with total advance not to exceed 30* unless you have some obscure cam grind and timing. That MSD distributor may have additional instructions.
  22. At 975 rpm the idle mixture screws will have no effect. Idle it down to at least 600 rpm then adjust the idle mixture screws to smooth the idle. If no joy then check for vacuum leaks as Ben noted. Do this of course after warmed up, with it off the fast idle cam. What carburetor?
×
×
  • Create New...