old-tank

My standard answer: check the ignition first. Be sure all parts are good. New plugs since fouled plugs make the engine weak. Points adjusted correctly. Get a dwell-tach to check idle speed to set timing (350rpm) and then to set idle speed at 550-650rpm. Check that dwell is around 30* and does not vary with engine speed. Next be sure the accelerator pump is working. You should never need starting fluid on a down draft carb...a couple of pumps on the accelerator and even a cold engine will fire. Be sure the choke is set correctly. Vacuum leaks? Maybe. There is only one vacuum

Got to keep the inspiration going! Just lean out the choke a little.

Is that the same as E-Z Clip System for A/C Refrigerant Hoses?

No stud on the pedal so that's good. Try it with the carpet removed since that high pile carpet may be interfering with travel of the pedal.

Yes. It pulls the carb wide open without stretching and and then stretches to allow more rotation and activation of the stator control function. Be sure you don't have a replacement accelerator pedal with a stud on the bottom...it will never work without breaking the stud off.

Maybe pictues of the hook up to the carb will help to see if any different than the original WCFB or 4GC.

Try page 72 of your service manual.

Call and ask. Cars in Phoenix need a/c; the belts are in place; the compressor has been changed (A-6 instead of the original A-5).

Pictures? Location?

John, I don't remember ever trying. I know that I will not depend on the park position to hold it! Hopefully if you get the shoes adjusted and the parking brake adjusted it will help.

As stated it is a parking brake and is usually adequate along with the park position of the transmission. On all of mine if I forget to release the parking brake, I can backup with little difficulty, but going forward it will barely move...just the nature of the beast.

On the other hand you cannot bring a car to that condition for 125K.

I have seen the primary and secondary jets mixed on Carter WCFB's that have been "rebuilt". Your service manual should have the jet number for those locations --- you will need magnification to read them.

Great idea if it must be stored. But loose body parts never fare well for long. And never store bicycles around those parts...or lawn equipment...or snow equipment...

You can do one at a time or 4. Install some lug bolts with the wheel off and use your longest screwdriver. I never did that adjustment in the past, but when I disassembled the backing plate for gold zinc plating (to mimic the original gold cad), I adjusted the pins as described and along with turning the drums and arcing the shoes it made a huge difference.

Pavement marked by spinning skinny underinflated bias-ply tires. I found that 29 psi would make a uniform dark black mark . And either someone got lucky and got both spinning or had a locking differential.

Pictures?

I was looking for pictures of your transmission and found this: HERE So, now I know what you have. What is the fluid level when off, idling and higher rpm? Maybe jack up the passenger side and stuff more fluid in or add some at the vent? You may have to move on to a different transmission (this one is kinda high priced for a "core")...there are others out there.

How did it function before the rebuild? 100 psi at idle: nothing wrong with the front pump Forget the rear pump. It turns off the output shaft only when the car is in motion. No change in function even if inoperable like I said before. I would still like to see more fluid in that unit.

Ask for the date code on each tire. That vendor often ships very old tires. Radials are a perishable product: 5-7 years even if not used. The Diamondbacks I bought were 3 months old. Pie crust: nice look, but harder to clean than the white walls.

6 v batteries take a long time to charge. Put it on a charger over night.

http://buickrestorer.com/fuelpump/fuelpump.html (was linked above: with THIS...rockauto, summit racing, and others, search the part number)

This sounds like it is sucking the pan dry when you bring up the rpm One last (probably not) suggestion: add some tranny fluid at that vent location.

The 55 is pressed in... yours may be screwed in.

THIS is what I did a couple of years ago. New pump for about $80 now. "Rebuilt" pumps don't last probably because they have been rebuilt too many times.