old-tank

What car?

On some cars after switching to radials the steering wheel will not return to center after a turn; increasing caster is way to solve.

Thanks for posting the picture of the heater hose next to the fuel line. Driving in the winter with the heater on and using the highly volatile winter blend gas will result in vapor lock. Until I installed an electric fuel pump, I had to leave the heater off...drove me crazy! Throw your old hoses away and use THIS when replacing...but keep you pictures and description of routing.

What does the other end attach to and how long is the run?

More on the HAMB Here dude said he was doing 80 miles per hour on the interstate and his drum brakes didn't work well enough. (I can lock mine at any speed)

Gasket yes Hole yes

Service manual + just do it and learn as you go. Easy to pull engine and tranny together with the front end parts off. Leaving the engine and tranny together is easier to store until you get around to working on them.

Good idea, but be advised that gear lube from the differential may show up if the pinion seal is defective. If you find gear lube, just leave it since it will find a level below the driveshaft and is no problem. If transmission fluid or a mixture, take action at the front of the torque tube.

Now we can go to orphan car shows and meets.

Yep

I have bled brakes every way but by the book and am convinced it makes no difference. "Maybe" if on a completely dry system you might pull air from a line while bleeding another line...just bleed again. I too back off 6-7 clicks after tight and write down for each wheel; then when I adjust after 10,000 miles I know how much difference...usually 2-3 clicks. New shoes are checked every 1000 miles until stable.

Just in front of the white paint.

They came with special nuts? I've just been using nut, lock washer and washer combo On 55 for sure, yours may be different. Check your carbs for marks from the star washers.

I usually don't like the lowered look with thin tires, but in this case and photo angle it fits this car.

only one?

Not a problem. If you take the torque converter apart, you need to mark. Attaching torque converter to the flex plate: align the relief holes for the 2 drain plugs and the 3 attachment points and you will be correct; I have seen some that were attached with the drain plugs covered (somebody had their head "up and jammed"); it would not hurt to mark, but if you pay attention it is "not a problem".

It made sense at $5,000.

Not really, just be sure to retain the nuts holding the carb to the manifold (hard to find 5/16-24 with 7/16 head with internal star washers)

Ha! Not for me: 2000 miles away and and I would need it to be 30-40 years ago to consider.

Climate controlled in the bottom of a creek???

Not a problem.

Mine was much worse. Probably no welding required on this one.

Won't hurt the transmission, but now the fluid level is above the pan gasket and maybe the speedometer cable site...may leak down to correct level on its own....

Project No rust and doable by someone who has done a mid 50's before.

Beer talking?