old-tank

Yikes! You are going to bend it! You need a puller like I made: HERE If you don't have a spare torque tube to make a tool, I can loan mine.

Right. Check the run-out again after cleaning the crankshaft flange of any paint or rust. Same the the flexplate. Bolt it up. You only have to check at the 3 mounting points with a dial indicator. I have one but it is loose and cannot be checked. And you should find one in Canada vs the horrendous shipping charges from south central Texas.

Nope. The primary jets are the largest. I have the jet numbers somewhere, but I cannot read them anymore. I use Autolite 85 in all my nailheads.

Whatever driveshaft you choose to install (NOS, used, original), have it checked for straightness. Also have the pinion checked for straightness...I have seen them bent during install or removal of the driveshaft. By the way what is your method of remove and replace?

https://www.martinjohnsonvintageexhaust.com/

Call and ask for measure.

Looks good until you take it apart for cleaning and inspection (nastiest job around). Replace the idler arm bushing along with internal parts and the tie rod ends.

This is what you need: Buick Farm --- also what my interchange manual says.

Look at what you have now. The original outer torque ball retainer was copper coated steel that rode on the torque ball and the tension was set with a trial and error routine using shims (see service manual); the upgrade will have rubber that seals and rides on the torque ball (no setting tension with shims is needed.) Look into "road force balancing "

Squirt a little tranny fluid or marvel oil at the valve guide/valve stem interface. The only time I have seen sticking valve in a nailhead was when the machine shop set the clearance too tight.

Your driveshaft can be straightened and balanced by a competent shop. The balance will be adequate if you get all of the transmission fluid out. I went through all that you did and until the bushing in the torque ball was replaced (actually a NOS torque ball). Your outer torque ball retainer will allow vibration if too loose or too tight...not usually a problem if it has the vulcanized upgrade, but replace it while you have it apart.

I agree that the Carter is a better pump, but whatever pump you use (12v) use 12 gauge wire for that long run back to the tank. With smaller wire the voltage drop will shorten the pump life.

Get the electric. Any NOS or old rebuilt will soon fail. Those old diaphragms are perishable.

Looks like a healthy engine that was using modern fuel and lubricants since the last rebuild. That cylinder ridge may just be carbon. Measure the bores.

Yep. It will become much easier with practice and then you will find that it behaves differently with cold vs hot tranny fluid. And eventually you will learn how to slip the gears without a clutch!

So, you are not going to play with your organ anymore?

Sometime during storage the black part of a tire was touching the white. Don't count on getting it off since it is deep in the white. Be sure the vendor pays for mounting and balancing when they replace. Hopefully you or the tire shop did not do this. Lotsa luck!

But only one pair is shiny.... You don't know that for sure...

My standard answer: check the ignition first. Be sure all parts are good. New plugs since fouled plugs make the engine weak. Points adjusted correctly. Get a dwell-tach to check idle speed to set timing (350rpm) and then to set idle speed at 550-650rpm. Check that dwell is around 30* and does not vary with engine speed. Next be sure the accelerator pump is working. You should never need starting fluid on a down draft carb...a couple of pumps on the accelerator and even a cold engine will fire. Be sure the choke is set correctly. Vacuum leaks? Maybe. There is only one vacuum

Got to keep the inspiration going! Just lean out the choke a little.

Is that the same as E-Z Clip System for A/C Refrigerant Hoses?

No stud on the pedal so that's good. Try it with the carpet removed since that high pile carpet may be interfering with travel of the pedal.

Yes. It pulls the carb wide open without stretching and and then stretches to allow more rotation and activation of the stator control function. Be sure you don't have a replacement accelerator pedal with a stud on the bottom...it will never work without breaking the stud off.

Maybe pictues of the hook up to the carb will help to see if any different than the original WCFB or 4GC.