old-tank

Check Cadillac suppliers too.

From my website HERE I use the plumbing fixture.

Ask them who the manufacturer is. Bwahahaha! When I restored the top I could not find that part so I had it zinc-plated. Like all the other parts on that convertible it was rusty and the plating process involves soaking in hydrochloric acid and maybe hydrogen embrittlement weakened the thing. Search hex head shoulder bolts. You will need all the dimensions if you call somebody.

Fastenal, Granger or Google o-rings lots of people out there selling.

housing installed with coil which means I didn't detect the leak this time. So far a different housing might be helping me. Time to finish charging and see how it works.

Probably oil on the seal there.

carbon face seal with springseal pressed into housing Seal seat pinned to shaft

What you need is a shade tree mechanic.

Something that I am not understanding. The air conditioning compressor which is a 1955 general motors A5 leaks refrigerant. I pulled a vacuum and it holds overnight and you can't get any better than that. Add some refrigerant and I'm getting a leak at the front. That is after changing the seal and o-rings twice. It seems that pulling a vacuum would leak first since it's trying to pull in relatively small molecules like nitrogen and oxygen whereas the pressure with the refrigerant is large complex molecules which would leak less. It probably leaking when it's just sitting since when the compressor is in service the seal area is under a vacuum. I didn't have this much problem years ago when I couldn't find the right o-rings. I just cut and glued them with super glue and it all worked.

Perfect!

Might be where the word Boat was first associated with Buicks? Yeah, but that dynaflow translates to "does not float"

When I replaced the tattered boot on my working power brakes, the first time I applied the brakes they stayed applied until a few minutes after shutdown. Venting the boot and it worked as designed again. If that does not work for you call the supplier.

A short piece of brake line between the shaft and the end of the boot will vent it and get your brakes working as designed.

The corrugated bellows at the front of the booster needs to be vented if it's sealed too good the brakes hold lock until you shut the engine off and it bleeds down.

There is never an end to these projects. Anyhow you will notice that the front of the air conditioning compressor is missing some key parts. "Somebody" broke a wire off that energizes the clutch on the compressor. Easy enough to change out the coil but I figured I better check to see if the rest of the compressor is sealed. Not even close; the front seat was leaking again. It was working when I took it off the car. I even put a service valve on the compressor pulled a vacuum and added some liquid refrigerant and there was still some pressure in it when I tried to install it again. Just a little more disassembly and the seal was replaced with good results. It was in the '80s here today and it cooled so good that the wife was complaining about being too cold.

Ask them. Maybe the rubber they use is compatible?

That should have been your original question. A quick search of these forums found Jim Hughes dynaflow service 419-874-2393. There are others that service dynaflows and there are suppliers that may have your part. And if it is like my 55 a copy could be make.

With all due respect, is this a trick question? 😄 It's an honest question. Nick has a 1950 Buick that's 40-some years older than he is. The answer is easily found on an internet search.

Check the pressures as outlined in the service manual.

Thanks! Use brake fluid to lubricate as an assembly lube if you are going to put it together and put into service right away. Otherwise use Sil-glyd as an assembly lube (this will prevent rusting of parts exposed to air.

40 mile run with no surprises. Runs smooth and strong with good oil pressure. Back to killing bugs and killing the planet.

No, just used compressed air to blow out residual fuel. Fuel came out of the outlet and the discharge hole below the diaphragm. Still using the vacuum assist.

Use 12 gauge wire to the electric pump. 14 gauge will give too much voltage drop and shorten the life of the pump....

The last heavy chunk to install is the air conditioning compressor. I have done this many times using the gorilla technique. With an aching back I had to come up with a different technique. Using the engine hoist was easier but took longer. It is never easy to line it up on three studs. On top of that the back brace attaches to the intake manifold and to an exhaust manifold bolt and there is interference at that manifold this time because I used a different manifold. Grind the brace to make it fit so it's perfect. Well phooey, engine running bad after I started it because I knocked the vacuum line off. On top of that the fuel pump is leaking... Double shucky darn. I've been carrying a piece of fuel line to bypass the mechanical pump and just use the electric pump so that's what I'm going to do until I get another mechanical pump. Also with air conditioning compressor installed it is much harder to change the mechanical pump. Someday I'm going to get to drive this car again.

Wix 51121 or made by Wix (NAPA 1121 or Carquest 85121); Purolator L40124; Baldwin P25 Best price is the Purolator L40124 on Zoro.