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Everything posted by old-tank
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Research shows: "auto graveyard east of Stoyestown, PA 1955" Cars appear to have little body damage and only some missing parts; all from the same era (maybe the way the yard inventoried).
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Be sure that the VIN on the title matches the vehicle. Hopefully you did not find a title to a different vehicle.
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You need to be there to help chase it down the street π.
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54 Skylark?
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I call it too damn much.
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Clattering and no pressure after oil change
old-tank replied to Rusty rench's topic in Buick - Post War
Good advise. Some people pull the plug on a hot engine and let it drain overnight to get all of the old oil out. But most engines retain up to a quart in the galleys. Pull the plug on a cold engine and replace when a tiny stream or drip, fill and start. -
http://www.stocktonwheel.com can make some wheels using the Buick center. They will be straight, cosmetic for paint, shaped for disc brakes if ever installed in the future and have the safety ridge in the bead area.
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Are you referring to the outer torque ball retainer or the bolts at the flange of the torque ball/driveshaft connection? If a 3/8 drive impact universal (9/16 socket) does not work, then disconnect the rear transmission support from the frame and drop it down a little.
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Rebuilding nailhead engine , Buick century 1955
old-tank replied to Selim's topic in Buick - Post War
Need the high temp version: https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-high-temp-red-rtv-silicone-gasket/?locale=en_us -
Rebuilding nailhead engine , Buick century 1955
old-tank replied to Selim's topic in Buick - Post War
Disassemble and clean it correctly. -
Rebuilding nailhead engine , Buick century 1955
old-tank replied to Selim's topic in Buick - Post War
If you have to use gaskets, do it. I had some that previously had gaskets and formed rust pits under the gasket, so I had no choice. After 50,000 miles the flanges started crumbling due to overheating. Metal to metal forms a heat sink. On manifolds that look good and are straight before or after planing at the machine shop, I use a thin layer of high temperature RTV. If in doubt, assemble with the RTV and check later and if good, clean and reassemble with some RTV. -
wrong lifters for nailhead engine 322 ci buick century 1955
old-tank replied to Selim's topic in Buick - Post War
Do you have a new camshaft? -
Not really. That engine is pretty tired. Last one that I chased a vibration issue on had part of a piston skirt in the bottom of the pan; another had loose parts in the torque converter.. Just drive it until you rebuild, then have it balanced.
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If you click around on it enough you might get the option to download and then you can play it. (pain in the ass). Then you have to delete it from you computer. Best to upload to youtube...extra effort for you but easier for the rest of us. It does play on firefox on linux, but unless it is running you have to load another operating system.
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Bearings? If the originals pass visual inspection after cleaning use them. Otherwise: New Departure 909062 inner; New Departure 909065 outer. Be careful with Ebay (some sellers seem to fish them out of a creek). Shoes? Have the drums turned by a brake/clutch shop and have them reline your shoes...specify soft aggressive lining that will stop 2 tons of Buick, then have the shoes arced to fit the drum they are intended for. Set the anchor pin after installing (shop manual). Buy a brake shoe caliper to make life easy.
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So what is wrong with THIS?
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Willie , You need to show the after picture , what a little cleaner will do !!! Bill Seven years...$$$$ --- note the tree growth... better days
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I have a Ford and put a nailhead in itπ. Now it is easier to work on .
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Edit... No lecture just schooling ... Sheesh .. or it it Sheethz or however they say it in Texas?? ... Oh, and of course you being the resident structural design engineer can testify to these conversions not making any difference at all on associated component stresses and all is cool ... get real. Notice that the OP has not been back and probably will not be back...and I call that a loss for most of us. Stress? Any brake, drum or disc will lock the wheels at least once at any speed and the 'stress' will be the same.
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Sheeesh --- The man just asked for a solution to his problem, not a lecture! He has so far contributed to our knowledge base on his interesting project. Maybe the original drums and bearings are shot and by the time he sources the inferior reproduction pacific rim junk the conversion makes sense. And brakes will have no effect on suspension components. The early Corvettes used some of the same parts.
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1950 Buick Estate Wagon - Driveline Vibration
old-tank replied to Kartman01's topic in Buick - Post War
yes, send a PM -
1950 Buick Estate Wagon - Driveline Vibration
old-tank replied to Kartman01's topic in Buick - Post War
You did not see my post above? Posted Friday at 09:32 PM -
Cleaning up some 1954 Buick Kelsey-Hayes wire wheels
old-tank replied to MrEarl's topic in Buick - Post War
The trouble with those &*%$@*& wire wheels is that they have to be dismounted to detail them like that. Every time that I think about that chore, my back starts barking at me!