old-tank

I don't know but it seems probable because they rebalanced the assembly in 58 such that the splines line up differently on the front shaft going into the torque ball in 58 vs. 57. With 2 universal joints in the system there would have be some way to clock it correctly.

Probably your best bet. I did find the piece on Special 46R, but you could not afford it after I removed all the junk from the car and removed all of the trim. I was saving that chore for when someone needs the rear glass.

So that was you that made miss the light.

What model?

For the exhaust track under the carb, I stuffed (stainless) steel wool and covered with JBWeld.

Search double clutch shifting and floating gears.

Easier to get a different car: back up a few years: HERE or start in 1948 forward.

It is always good to be frugal.

Appears that you were really roughing it.

Do the pressure tests that are hopefully outlined in the service manual. The pressures are lowest at idle and sometime if very low will not come up quickly enough to keep the clutches from chattering when accelerating. Starting in Low will give a different vibration due to the low band slipping.

Is the switch pitch working?

The noise is from the valves in the vacuum section of the pump.

3rd choice unless washer head are needed...no need for thread cutting

Search 'toggle switch'.

To me this describes percolation or fuel boiling out of the carburetor bowls. ONE of the problems with volatile fuel. I solved this problem by blocking all exhaust crossing over in the intake manifold. This is a lean condition (that will not occur with an electric fuel pump) where no fuel is delivered due to vapor lock on the suction side of the mechanical fuel pump. Problem TWO of volatile fuel.

Something like THIS.

Engine RPM in neutral? Drive? Low? Reverse? Foot on brake and load up in Drive? Switch Pitch working? All speeds? Over this many years most of those transmission were rebuilt, some better than others. Substitutions, deletions, additions were done, shortcuts taken....some were know to work back then, but unknown now. Most torque converter problems show as performance issues and noise. If you pin it down to the torque converter, replace just that component with one that had not been "messed with".

GAAAAK! Please, no more oil threads!

Probably does not include the screw (bolt). Search 3/8-16 screw or bolt.

Search "cage nut' and "clip nut".

I doubt that the timing cover gasket is original. At first I thought that it is a high mileage car or one that had short trips, cheap oil, and/or poor maintenance...probably high mileage. So now you have a 60 year old car with high mileage. You should sell it to me (after you fix it up ).

Get the 12v starter and solenoid, but don't use the carb switch to directly activate the solenoid. It will fry the contact in that switch. You will need a starter RELAY and wire the system like the later 12v cars that used the carb switch: This is from a 55.

Try that first. The usual leaks are internal with water mixing with the trans fluid or water leaks from rusted hose connections. You can add a cooler in front of the radiator or like I did install a fan driven cooler up in the frame rails. I did this in addition to the stock heat exchanger because it could not keep up with slow driving in mountains.

The seats should come apart. Remove the seat back, install the belts then replace. That is the only way on my 55's.