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  1. Power steering noise is an issue I have worked on in large trucks and to some degree hydraulic systems. The systems all have similar complaints. They have Noise, heat, leaks or slow and weak performance. In most cases the noise is air entrapment in the oil, it is one of the things that is hard to get your head around why does it not leak if air is getting in the system. It can be caused by failed seals in the steering box power steering pump or hoses, I replace hoses every time and make sure fittings are not damaged. How I would troubleshoot this, if your reservoir has a removable lid make sure it is up to level start the engine do not turn the wheel remove lid check for air or foam, if none install lid and then work steering left or right shut it off and check for air bubbles in the oil, foaming oil. If you have foam in the oil make, sure hoses are tight and double check at each step make sure the lid is on enough to prevent a spill. If you have foam in the oil, does it only do it turning left or right? If the pump is new and the hoses are correct with what you have said on your other post the gear is possibly the cause seals failed and sucking air. If you have access to any test equipment like a test loop, this will help in troubleshooting the problem. One web site to check is BAB steering out of calif they have a section on troubleshooting fluids. Let us know what you find. Steve https://babsteering.com
  2. I have a parts car with the power brake vacuum pump. I have removed the motor looks as if someone has been in this in years gone by. The motor would not run pulled it apart and found the brush holder rusted out and lower bushing stuck to the armature shaft. I dropped this at a starter repair shop and they were able to come up with a brush holder and bushing. I cleaned up the vacuum motor and assembled the unit tried it and it works and pulls a good vacuum. I do have a question if a spring goes on the seat it looks to have a wittiness mark on the seat for one. I hope someone has been inside one of these. I have attached a few pictures. The vanes remind me of an impact wrench motor. To lube the vanes a wick drips oil down on the vanes through the upper shaft bushing. If anyone has any information on the vacuum brake booster please let me know. Thanks Steve
  3. Few of the summer projects around the house are wrapping up. I am getting ready for my fall and winter work in the shop. I have seen clamps on the lines on the engine on a few core engines. I have been looking and have yet to find a supplier see picture. If anyone knows of a supplier let me know. I am also working on the Exhaust hangers I have this hanger from a parts car and will most likely replace the belting and clean it up. The tail pipe hanger a few vendors have for sale is this a correct a hanger for a 53 V8 or is it a universal type hanger they sell? Thanks for any advice Steve
  4. I was at a local show this weekend I was glad to see this 55. Nice car with a fresh engine and a piston sitting by the car, not many people bring a piston for show and tell. I looked at the piston and to my surprise it was welded, I had to ask what this was all about. The story is new owner found a plug wire not attached he attached the plug wire then started the engine. It had piston noise and when he drove it down the road it smoked horribly, enough you could not see behind the car. Someone welded a STD piston then put it in a 030 over block. It sounds like he worked it out with the seller regarding the purchase in the end. I have seen many things but this is a first. Steve
  5. Thanks for the advice I will even add thread locker Steve
  6. I am looking for torque converter bolts to flexplate my bolts are in tough shape. I have looked around but have not found a source yet. 5/16 by 1-1/4" NF Steve
  7. Welcome aboard the forum is a great resource and you have a nice project. 53 Buick V8 and 12 volt was a big change back then. A few things I would consider on spark and the engine cranking over. Sounds like you have the old battery still in the circuit if so remove it and use a known good temporary battery; old batteries can lengthen time needed for troubleshooting. Once you have it cranking over reliably then move on to spark, use a voltmeter at resistor. Check values, cranking mode is 12 volt to resistor then the voltage will drop in run mode. I have seen ballast resistors fail, unhook the wires and check for an open in the resistor. The points will be oxidized. New points and Condenser would be a good plan as John said. If new points aren't handy file the the points just to get the engine to start. I have even used a small piece of fine sandpaper on points. One trick is remove the distributor cap with the points closed key on use a screwdriver and open and close points this is faster than all this pesky troubleshooting. You should see a spark at the points when doing this. Then you should have spark at the spark plugs if the cap and plug wires are OK. Fuel will be your next issue once you have spark. Follow John D recommendations, wires degrade and mice eat insulation use a battery disconnect when not at your car. Good luck Steve
  8. I installed the engine and transmission and a few other items and decided to take my chassis to a local show about a month ago. Not many people get the opportunity to see a project at this point. Now that I have my brake reservoir, I will try to wrap up the chassis this summer. Who knows I might even drive it without the body and test it before all the sheet metal is in the way. Steve
  9. Must of been some strong acid it even removed the metal splash guard inside the cap. I have what I need now and will move forward on my project. So far the vendors that have supplied services on my project have done a good job, this is the first one that went completely sideways live and learn Steve
  10. Above picture is before I had them try to plate or coat my reservoirs, now the threads are damaged to the point the cap will just lift off and the body has holes in it. I will clean my new used parts up and move forward, I do not need the heartache on this item. I have a photo of one of the damaged reservoirs so you can see why it is not useable. Steve
  11. Thanks to everyone for the help in locating my part Once the tops are loose I will clean one up and install it. I will save the second one for my other project. Does anyone know of a vendor that has just the gasket for the lid or will I need to make the gasket? I did pickup PB parts at the wrecking yard that is close I will see if the vacuum motor works soon. Steve
  12. Nice looking car and l second the welcome! When it comes to wiring do your research also look over your harnesses if they are original equipment they could be damaged from many things. Sharp edges rubbing through the outer insulation, mice and poor repair practices and age. On my last project l purchased a new harness to replaced the original, after it was out l was glad l did. Had all of the above problems and it could have caused many a problem. It is not easy if you replace your harnesses tag and mark everything, before removal then pictures. This will make a huge difference in how it goes in. You might have a battery shutoff if not put one on, l never leave my cars with the battery connected. I know you say it stops good check the brake lines the rubber and steel. lf you were in my neighborhood l would help you out on this. This is the first place l go on a project is the safety , l just need to know it will stop. Prchase manual's they are a big help. Good luck on your project Steve
  13. I have a wrecking yard a few hours from my house the owner who is up in years is not sure if he has the reservoir or not. He is also not sure if they had power brakes or not, he does have a 53 RM and possibly a 54. My parts book only lists power brakes. I would think manual brakes were standard and power brake was an option. If a car had manual brakes is the reservoir the same as a power brake car? I would like to know before driving to his yard Saturday and striking out. Thanks for any information Steve
  14. Thanks for the information, I will now include 1954 in my search. Steve
  15. My parts book goes from 1928 to 1954, it just has a listing for 1953. It says Reservoir, power brake master cylinder part # 1162601 for 1953 -50-70. Buick must have made changes in 1954 going by this book? Here is the part number for the cap gasket just in case someone needs the info #1162919, the cap is not listed separate. Thanks for the offer. Steve