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About 195354

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  • Birthday 03/13/1957

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    Eugene Oregon

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  1. Thanks I did not see this when looking at Bob's. I will purchase this and post a picture for all in the future. Steve
  2. I am looking for a picture or any information regarding the knob and hardware that is used on the end of the trip meter reset cable. I have looked in my parts book and a reset knob is listed no other information I will add a few pictures of my reset cable. Thanks Steve
  3. Time to start on the dash I would like to find gauges that are in better condition than mine are. The top was down or rotted sun and water damage on the gauges. The key switch is also in tough shape the ears show marks from plyers a better core would help in these areas. One question on the key has anyone had any success removing the chrome from the tumbler for plating? The speaker cover has tabs that you can remove they have lighter air vent & lights on them anyone have these that are in great shape? I would also like to find the chrome that goes around the ashtray and radio opening; mine are pitted and will likely take more work than a better example. A good hinge with the spring will be a big help also. I will add a few pictures of my seasoned parts. . I do have a good clock I need the rest of the gauges. Send me a PM if you have parts that will fit my project. 53 RM and Super should be the same. Thanks Steve
  4. The radiator strap has rusted where soldered to the upper tank. I had this repaired about a year ago; I am surprised to see this. Should I clean it up, use a rust encapsulator, and paint over this area? I now need to locate or source all the correct bolts and washers needed. I am trying to locate all the needed parts when I take a break doing rust repair. The paint I used on the inner fenders is not very tough. I can scratch it very easy. After I have the body ready and installed I might paint these with a different product. Part of the learning curve I guess. Steve
  5. This project is my therapy after working. I am trying to keep moving steadily forward it is has more twist and turns then I expected. Learning paint is a new experience . Thanks for all the positive comments Stee
  6. Quick question on the hoses for 1953. Did the OEM just use black heater hose, did it have a logo? If it has the logo what vendor sells this hose. Thanks in advance for the help. Steve
  7. I haven’t posted anything for a while thought I would update my slow progress. Rolling chassis is complete other than bleed brakes, and inner fenders, radiator, and hoses. I then hope to take short drive. I repaired a few more places on the inner fenders and painted them first time I have ever done paintwork. From what I can tell, the engine compartment should not be gloss paint. I have also went back at rust repair, trunk is now in place 100%. I am now going along and fixing all the other rust damage. It is closer than it was but still a ways before it is back on the frame. Steve
  8. I have located the needed mount, I want thank everyone for the help Steve
  9. Kimrod Thanks for asking the pictures don't show how bad this car is rusted. The panels don't even make good scrap the car is all but gone saved the power items and drivetrain and radiator Contact Mr Earl and see what he has he is most likely closer to your location Steve
  10. Mike Your project is looking great! Here are a few pictures of the clip, the two on the side that are not on the tack strip have strip seal added. The other snaps must use the tack strip as the sealer. I had all philips screws holding in the snaps. Steve
  11. Thanks, for the comets I almost used the big fine hammer for the modification it would have been easier. I have one more question on the exhaust system. The hanger over the differential, Buick calls this #3 hanger in parts figure. I have no examples of the hanger for comparison in my treasures. I do have one from a 54 Roadmaster and it is ready for use if it is correct. I have attached a picture with the holes that are available in the frame the 54 uses a hole closer to center of the chassis. This is position #2 in the photo. When I look at the view provided by Buick, I tend to believe 53-used position #1 for the hanger. My parts book stops in 53 is this the same hanger in 54? Why does the 53 frame have 2 threaded holes in this area? Little detail questions inspection plate for torque converter is this just a flat plate with no stiffening ribs, is it black? I will most likely fabricate one. I have never seen on still with a car. The cover to access the torque converter, the examples I have had no paint was it painted at all. Thanks Steve
  12. Thanks Willie, I have twisted and turned pipes and even tried two different pipes and never could the clearance needed. The new pipe would not fit it was not even close. I ended up using a good used pipe and making a little modification. I now have plenty of clearance at the pass through and along the frame. I believe the header pipe is not correct but this little change on the pipe to muffler did the job. Steve
  13. Installing the exhaust system on my 53, the car came with an exhaust system it looks like it should fit. I hope it is for this car and it can be used. My question is the pipe at the inlet hits the frame. I had one from a parts car, it cleaned up nice and I was going to use it, but it rested against the frame on the right side pass through it would not take much to make it clear. I tried another pipe that came with the car after I realized it was for this car it will fit but the contact is much worse. The new system has no part numbers. I installed the muffler flat this looks correct to me. The other question is the tail pipe outlet should it line up with the right frame rail. I can make a pipe clear the pass through easy enough if needed. I do have some adjustment on the tail pipe before it is clamped in place. Does anyone have a picture or two of their exhaust systems or ideas regarding the install. I have a few pictures attached. Thanks Steve
  14. Still searching I need the mount on the Dynaflow and the clamp Steve