195354

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About 195354

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  • Birthday 03/13/1957

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    Male
  • Location:
    Eugene Oregon

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  1. I have a wrecking yard a few hours from my house the owner who is up in years is not sure if he has the reservoir or not. He is also not sure if they had power brakes or not, he does have a 53 RM and possibly a 54. My parts book only lists power brakes. I would think manual brakes were standard and power brake was an option. If a car had manual brakes is the reservoir the same as a power brake car? I would like to know before driving to his yard Saturday and striking out. Thanks for any information Steve
  2. Thanks for the information, I will now include 1954 in my search. Steve
  3. My parts book goes from 1928 to 1954, it just has a listing for 1953. It says Reservoir, power brake master cylinder part # 1162601 for 1953 -50-70. Buick must have made changes in 1954 going by this book? Here is the part number for the cap gasket just in case someone needs the info #1162919, the cap is not listed separate. Thanks for the offer. Steve
  4. I am in need of the brake fluid reservoir, I had a vendor try and coat mine and they are now damaged and not usable. Here is a picture of what they look like. Please let me know what you have Thanks Steve
  5. Willie Thanks for the response, the orientation is fool proof just like your 55 it only goes one way. The new torque ball seal is going to work it will ride in the smooth areas. I made some progress this weekend engine and transmission is in chassis at last. Here are a few photos Steve
  6. I have torque ball corrosion, the socket ball has corrosion to me it does not look like it is in the seal area. A torque ball retainer with the seal is on the way should arrive late this week. Then I will be able to confirm the area it runs on. If I fix this corrosion area, my thoughts are JB weld or similar product and smooth it out as needed. Has anyone run into this before, and come up with a fix? I have not looked in the manual yet it is not with me today does the torque ball have an orientation? I would think the oil hole in the bushing is at 6 o'clock Thanks in advance for the advice Steve
  7. A few pic of mine hope this helps Steve
  8. Pontiac 1953 thanks for the picture of your Brake reservoir; did you use a paint product that will resist brake fluid? My reservoir is not done at the coating company here in town I am little concerned that it is taking this long. I have been working on the right rear inner fender, need to finish sand a few spots but it is close to done. The inside needs a weld in a few places and the rubber stop mount for the convertible top welded back on. I plan to add a few more spot welds and call it good; I test fit the panel through the process to keep everything in line. The left inner fender needs rust removal and repair also but it is not as bad as the right side. Steve
  9. I have been working on the inner fenders, Right inner fender was in OK shape other than the front splash apron was in tough shape. I had a set of inner fenders from the car and a set from a parts car; I cut and welded a good set for the car. Left fender was good other than the rear splash apron was damaged in an accident back in the day and the front top was rusted and gone. I removed needed parts from the parts car fenders and spot-welded the parts on. I had to make modifications to one panel; the original has a removable panel. The parts car is at the end of production for 53. My car is early production as time marched on Buick must have made changes in these. Notice the notch in the splash pan at the front latter production does not have this; same with the removable panel, latter inner panels are one piece. They are test fitted on the chassis and ready for primer . Here are few pictures Happy new year! Steve
  10. Here are a few pictures of the vacuum check valve for the brake booster. After cleaning it out and testing it does not hold vacuum. I see a small impression were the rubber seal seats against the cover this is most likely the leak. Many years ago, I had parts that had a rubber seat repair vendor replaced the seats in parts for air brake valves, it was about this size. I will try the vendor but I doubt they still offer this service. . Has anyone had these apart and repaired them with any success, I could just put an inline check valve in one of the rubber hoses to resolve this if needed. Steve
  11. I have my chassis moving around on tires for the first time in a few years big day for me. I am thinking the factory must have added some kind of marking on the differential cover when they added oil Does anyone know if the factory had a check mark? I am also wrapping up the brake lines, does anyone have pictures that would show the clamps that go on the brake lines these are the bolt on clamps around the brake booster to reservoir. I have holes for bolts in the frame the parts book only shows two clamps but it looks like a few more clamps are in order. The line that goes to the rear axle from the brake switch is the one I think needs some type of clamp. Thanks for the help Steve
  12. Mike I agree with Al the white top is a pain to put it lightly on keeping them looking good. Black is what I have on my Chevy convertible the only downside is they are hotter than blazes in the sun but it is a convertible easy fix. One thing I should have researched is the rear window they are easy to put marks in maybe I am doing something wrong but it happens. I wish they had a zipper in the bottom panel so the window could be removed then it could be put it in some type of protective cover, or be changed it if is needed. This is one of my research projects on my soft-top project when I get to it. The rear window is one of the first things that will show use at least it does in my case, Early morning drives require the top up here in the northwest. Mike will you stick with the hydraulic system for the windows and seat, I have heard of the windows being converted from hydraulic to an electric set up. I have not seen a car converted yet. Keep posting pictures like to see how you are doing. Steve
  13. Mike Looking good I wish I could make this much progress. What color are you going with Steve
  14. I am looking for a core transmission to rebuild for my 1953 V8 322 the two units I have found are water damaged. My books do not tell me if a 54 will work; I believe a 54 is the same but with product improvements if anyone knows how new I can go it would help. Shipping to Oregon Fastenal will be best option I believe. Thanks Steve
  15. I need a little advise on the rear wheel bearing lube. The manual just has WBL called out and check when relining brakes, is this the standard wheel bearing grease? I am thinking of trying a synthetic wheel bearing lube like Mobil Mobilith SHC 007 I have used this at work and it works great, wheel end maintenance does go down with this type of lube. With modern seals I would think it would work. Has anyone tried a synthetic lube on wheel ends? Steve