Jump to content

195354

Members
  • Content Count

    127
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

160 Excellent

About 195354

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 03/13/1957

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Eugene Oregon

Recent Profile Visitors

2,007 profile views
  1. 1953 RM need chrome surround for ashtray and radio. My surrounds are in tough shape I do not really want to send these out for plating. I am looking for better examples to send out for plating. Thanks Steve
  2. I did a VIN inspection in my home state of Oregon a few years back. The DMV pulled a book from the shelf and looked up 53 Buick. It listed the location of the serial number on the frame also serial number location attached to the body and body tag location. In 1953, the reference material the state used noted Phillip screws held on the body tag and body serial number. I have also parted a few 53 Buick's and this is what I have found on those units. In 53 the serial number on Chevy cars is stainless steel and spot welded to the left doorpost about vent window height. Makes me wonder why one b
  3. I am trying to position the tab that welds on the floor for the power seat. I never had a good way to make a pattern on this before I removed what was left of the floor. If anyone has a picture and a few measurements on the correct location, it would be a great help. I have looked at my parts book and what I have for the track and I do not see how the seat track works, I must be short on a few key parts. Once this tab is in place I am done with the lower rust repair. Then I have rust in a few other places that need repair it is all high window frame and trunk upper seal area. M
  4. Thanks I did not see this when looking at Bob's. I will purchase this and post a picture for all in the future. Steve
  5. I am looking for a picture or any information regarding the knob and hardware that is used on the end of the trip meter reset cable. I have looked in my parts book and a reset knob is listed no other information I will add a few pictures of my reset cable. Thanks Steve
  6. Time to start on the dash I would like to find gauges that are in better condition than mine are. The top was down or rotted sun and water damage on the gauges. The key switch is also in tough shape the ears show marks from plyers a better core would help in these areas. One question on the key has anyone had any success removing the chrome from the tumbler for plating? The speaker cover has tabs that you can remove they have lighter air vent & lights on them anyone have these that are in great shape? I would also like to find the chrome that goes around the ashtray and radio opening;
  7. The radiator strap has rusted where soldered to the upper tank. I had this repaired about a year ago; I am surprised to see this. Should I clean it up, use a rust encapsulator, and paint over this area? I now need to locate or source all the correct bolts and washers needed. I am trying to locate all the needed parts when I take a break doing rust repair. The paint I used on the inner fenders is not very tough. I can scratch it very easy. After I have the body ready and installed I might paint these with a different product. Part of the learning curve I guess. Steve
  8. This project is my therapy after working. I am trying to keep moving steadily forward it is has more twist and turns then I expected. Learning paint is a new experience . Thanks for all the positive comments Stee
  9. Thanks for the tip Steve
  10. Quick question on the hoses for 1953. Did the OEM just use black heater hose, did it have a logo? If it has the logo what vendor sells this hose. Thanks in advance for the help. Steve
  11. I haven’t posted anything for a while thought I would update my slow progress. Rolling chassis is complete other than bleed brakes, and inner fenders, radiator, and hoses. I then hope to take short drive. I repaired a few more places on the inner fenders and painted them first time I have ever done paintwork. From what I can tell, the engine compartment should not be gloss paint. I have also went back at rust repair, trunk is now in place 100%. I am now going along and fixing all the other rust damage. It is closer than it was but still a ways before it is back on the frame. Steve
  12. I have located the needed mount, I want thank everyone for the help Steve
  13. Kimrod Thanks for asking the pictures don't show how bad this car is rusted. The panels don't even make good scrap the car is all but gone saved the power items and drivetrain and radiator Contact Mr Earl and see what he has he is most likely closer to your location Steve
  14. Mike Your project is looking great! Here are a few pictures of the clip, the two on the side that are not on the tack strip have strip seal added. The other snaps must use the tack strip as the sealer. I had all philips screws holding in the snaps. Steve
  15. Thanks, for the comets I almost used the big fine hammer for the modification it would have been easier. I have one more question on the exhaust system. The hanger over the differential, Buick calls this #3 hanger in parts figure. I have no examples of the hanger for comparison in my treasures. I do have one from a 54 Roadmaster and it is ready for use if it is correct. I have attached a picture with the holes that are available in the frame the 54 uses a hole closer to center of the chassis. This is position #2 in the photo. When I look at the view provided by Buick, I tend to believe 5
×
×
  • Create New...