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  • Birthday 03/13/1957

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  1. Promised pictures My computer has been retired and working on a Mac now bit of a learning curve. I have other pictures just need to locate them. These units are not that complex, save all the parts in some kind of small parts container with dividers as you take it apart look for witness marks and take pictures you can put a few parts in backwards. It will have small springs and I recall a ball bearing, I dropped mine and it was where is Waldo hour. I just cleaned the armature enough for a test. I used paper clips on the brushes to hold them in place when I installed th
  2. I thought I would add to this subject on the safety side. Fuel tank leaks and repairs we all just do it and safety needs to be brought up. When the tank is empty it is just a bomb looking for an ignition source. We all just do things and once and awhile read about an unfortunate incident like a fire. When working with a fuel tank. Check for static it is rare but happens go ahead and discharge the static in your body just to make sure. Do you have any pilot lights in your shop or garage that are on, if you have any spillage the fumes will find the ignition source. When drain
  3. I have taken these pumps apart and found corrosion at the brush to armature it causes no contact so the motor will not operate. The Vacuum side on mine was gummed up I cleaned it freed up vanes and the unit worked. After I had it working and new it was worth the time, I had an electrical shop that repairs starters and generators turn the armature and install new brushes. They installed the vacuum part and even tested operation. With all the pictures here, locate an electrical shop they might do this for you. I might have pictures of mine as I dissembled if needed. Steve
  4. 1953 RM need chrome surround for ashtray and radio. My surrounds are in tough shape I do not really want to send these out for plating. I am looking for better examples to send out for plating. Thanks Steve
  5. I did a VIN inspection in my home state of Oregon a few years back. The DMV pulled a book from the shelf and looked up 53 Buick. It listed the location of the serial number on the frame also serial number location attached to the body and body tag location. In 1953, the reference material the state used noted Phillip screws held on the body tag and body serial number. I have also parted a few 53 Buick's and this is what I have found on those units. In 53 the serial number on Chevy cars is stainless steel and spot welded to the left doorpost about vent window height. Makes me wonder why one b
  6. I am trying to position the tab that welds on the floor for the power seat. I never had a good way to make a pattern on this before I removed what was left of the floor. If anyone has a picture and a few measurements on the correct location, it would be a great help. I have looked at my parts book and what I have for the track and I do not see how the seat track works, I must be short on a few key parts. Once this tab is in place I am done with the lower rust repair. Then I have rust in a few other places that need repair it is all high window frame and trunk upper seal area. M
  7. Thanks I did not see this when looking at Bob's. I will purchase this and post a picture for all in the future. Steve
  8. I am looking for a picture or any information regarding the knob and hardware that is used on the end of the trip meter reset cable. I have looked in my parts book and a reset knob is listed no other information I will add a few pictures of my reset cable. Thanks Steve
  9. Time to start on the dash I would like to find gauges that are in better condition than mine are. The top was down or rotted sun and water damage on the gauges. The key switch is also in tough shape the ears show marks from plyers a better core would help in these areas. One question on the key has anyone had any success removing the chrome from the tumbler for plating? The speaker cover has tabs that you can remove they have lighter air vent & lights on them anyone have these that are in great shape? I would also like to find the chrome that goes around the ashtray and radio opening;
  10. The radiator strap has rusted where soldered to the upper tank. I had this repaired about a year ago; I am surprised to see this. Should I clean it up, use a rust encapsulator, and paint over this area? I now need to locate or source all the correct bolts and washers needed. I am trying to locate all the needed parts when I take a break doing rust repair. The paint I used on the inner fenders is not very tough. I can scratch it very easy. After I have the body ready and installed I might paint these with a different product. Part of the learning curve I guess. Steve
  11. This project is my therapy after working. I am trying to keep moving steadily forward it is has more twist and turns then I expected. Learning paint is a new experience . Thanks for all the positive comments Stee
  12. Quick question on the hoses for 1953. Did the OEM just use black heater hose, did it have a logo? If it has the logo what vendor sells this hose. Thanks in advance for the help. Steve
  13. I haven’t posted anything for a while thought I would update my slow progress. Rolling chassis is complete other than bleed brakes, and inner fenders, radiator, and hoses. I then hope to take short drive. I repaired a few more places on the inner fenders and painted them first time I have ever done paintwork. From what I can tell, the engine compartment should not be gloss paint. I have also went back at rust repair, trunk is now in place 100%. I am now going along and fixing all the other rust damage. It is closer than it was but still a ways before it is back on the frame. Steve
  14. I have located the needed mount, I want thank everyone for the help Steve
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