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About Kestrel

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  • Birthday 10/28/1950

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  1. Interesting. Was it hard for you to find backing plates ? Did you use the same wheel cylinders ? I see repro drums out there but I don't know how available backing plates would be for a '51. I wanted to get back on the road this summer. All my basic stock components are good. Maybe a swap with someone down the road would be an option.
  2. Does anyone know if brake drums and shoes for the early post-war Roadmasters, or any other models with 2 and 1/4" wide drums, will fit on a '51 Super ? My Super has 1.75" wide brake linings but the Roadmaster has the 2.25" linings. I've read that if possible, such a swap would greatly enhance braking ability. I don't know if I'd need to change out the backing plates, too. Thanks guys.
  3. I'm thinking of upgrading from a single reservoir master cylinder to duel. I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has done this. Also helpful would be a suggested make and model master cylinder they used and the degree of fabrication skills, if any, needed. I intend to keep the system all drums front and rear, replacing remaining components with original or reproduction parts as needed. The current (leaking) master cylinder has a 1" bore. Thanks All !!
  4. GREAT NEWS ! After about 15 minutes or so, she started pumping oil to the rockers and the push rods started dancing, spinning, awash in new oil. First my mechanic friend put a pressure gauge on the oil filter inlet and got 60 lbs , then we went ahead and let her run. After several minutes, the engine quieted down slowly but steadily, eventually reaching a low pleasant hum, like the proverbial Swiss watch. Also no exhaust leaks, no oil or coolant leaks.... at least of this writing. I think I'm good to go. Now on to the brakes. They've seen better days. Thanks all for the support and advice !! I'm a happy owner once again. 😄
  5. Thanks. Appreciate the photo
  6. Several minutes ? I feel better now. I'll first make sure I have a trickle of oil. When I removed the push rod cover for painting, I recall degreasing and cleaning up the inside and around the rods. Never thought to squirt some oil back in. That step might have helped to "jump start" the lifters ? I replaced the cover with the internals clean.... but dry. 😟
  7. Thanks John. Yes, I filled the oil filter canister when I added the 6 + qts. of crankcase oil. All oil supplied to the rockers, push rods goes through that big filter canister first. The lifters are then supplied with oil through the " rocker arm shaft, rocker arm, ball stud, push rod ends, and push rod seat in lifter" so states the manual. The push rod serves as a "reservoir" to maintain oil above the lifter. This is all new to me, but the manual appears to make it pretty clear. Now I'm thinking there just wasn't enough oil to trickle down to the lifters for some yet undetermined reason. I'll check the supply lines AND squirt oil some 10w-30 down around the push rods and rockers. I'd like to know just how much oil is supposed to shoot out of those rocker holes. Gentle weep or decent stream ?
  8. After sitting for approx 5 months with all fluids drained, and now with everything back together, I finally went to start the engine. New manifold gaskets, replacing water pump, engine detailing, & general refreshing is all I did. She ran quiet last November with no apparent issues. However, immediately after starting today, it gave off a very loud tapping from the top end somewhere. Sounds bloody awful. I did not run it very long, maybe a minute altogether. The noise stayed the same. I cleaned out a suspect oil filter line going into the head that feeds the rockers because there was no oil coming out of the rocker arms. I don't want to damage anything so I I didn't re-try yet, but the dash oil gauge needle jumps to the high end of the dial so I assume the basic oil pressure is okay. Do these hydraulic lifters take a while to fill ? Maybe I didn't run the engine long enough ? I performed a lot of disassembly, cleaned dirty filters, etc., but the rockers, valves, etc I left alone. Any ideas appreciated !!! I'm currently afraid to turn the key. 😞
  9. Much obliged ! I'll have to make up an "ell" bracket.
  10. Could someone describe or post a photo of where the heat riser anti-rattle spring attaches ? Exhaust flange bolt ? I suspect the counter weight lever became bent during the repair. I have the shaft moving freely, a new coil thermostat and spring. Thank you.
  11. Rings are in and all bolts torqued down. I was in denial last night. I'm now guilt free. 😊 The Remflex gasket folks say stop at 20 ft pounds, somewhat less than the shop manual's 25-30.
  12. Thanks guys. Since I can't blame anyone else, I'll pull it off and re-install with the rings. It's just tough to find a helper when its cold and snowy. The house manager offered to help, but the attention span there is abut 5 seconds....on a good day
  13. I started torquing down my manifold but forgot to insert the 4 metal intake alignments rings into the head. How important are they ? Should I pull the manifold off and put them in ? The manifold was re-surfaced and I have new Remflex gaskets. Thank you !!
  14. I'll trust the book as well and re-install the original chain. It wasn't that big of a deal to change out if I have to go in again someday.