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About Kestrel

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  • Birthday 10/28/1950

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  1. Jerry, The cylinders on my '32 194 engine were about the same condition as yours before my rebuild. The rebuilder went with .030 over and I recall getting the pistons and pins from Kantor in NJ. Whatever way you go, try to nail down a definitive completion date with the shop. Mine took a year longer to finish than first estimated. And don't lose faith. It will all come together someday and you're young enough to make sure it does ! Hey, it was great meeting you at Hershey ! Too bad we didn't get a picture of you , me and Ted. 😃 Charlie (Hardaground on the VCCA forum)
  2. That your brother discovered this issue BEFORE the Hershey trip is beyond fortuitous. Last thing you want is a structural failure hauling that Olds. Murphy's law is always lurking...😃
  3. I like that idea. Then simply use a flashlight to check for any rising fluid ?
  4. That looks real solid. I'd go grab it. Here's a photo of my father's first car. A 1922 Dodge Sport Roadster. That's him in the drivers seat with 7 happy passengers just after he graduated from pharmacy school in NYC in 1927. Has a busted shoulder too. Unknown how but maybe trying to crank the old girl.😁
  5. I've seen threads referring to drilling and tapping a small hole in the torque tube to check for and to drain off any escaping ATF into rear end. My car's a '51 Buick Super with Dynaflow. Could someone advise where is a good location for this hole and any other considerations in this effort ? I imagine somewhere aft of the E brake bracket ? I don't like drilling holes in general and want to do it right the first time. Thanks !
  6. Thanks Tank. I removed just under half a quart or so with a syringe through the dip stick hole. She reads just over full now. Good old leaks will do the rest. 😁
  7. Quick question. I just changed out the tranny fluid in my Buick Super. After re-filling with 8 and 1/2 qts. ATF and following instructions the shop manual I went for a 2-3 mile road test drive. The fluid now reads (engine running) about an inch over the full line on the dipstick. There was no foaming or anything and it ran well. Would you guys drain off this apparent excess ? I don't want to blow out any seals or damage the clutches somehow. There is the usual slight leak in the torque tube/tranny connection that over time I suppose would bring the level down. Any thoughts appreciated !
  8. Just for fun I looked at your first post. I think you should re-paint it a flat yellow. Ha ha...just kidding. It's a real piece of sculpture now !! I don't know how tight side mount tires are supposed to fit in the fenders, but on my '32 Chevy I have stress cracks in the paint where the tires are wedged in against the fender. Maybe they should be under inflated to be safe so as not to create any stress on that new paint. Just something that came to mind after looking at the above photo.
  9. Along what 'pac kick" said, , speedometers in state police cars, at least in NYS, were calibrated using radar guns. They were all off slightly from what the needle said. It was this calibration card that was used In court to win trials. So you could make up your own card and paste on the panel somewhere. 👮‍♂️
  10. Yes, headliner and doors are original. It looks like the headliner was originally grey. When I removed the antenna mount it was grey underneath. Now it's all brownish tan. The Trim No. is 64. Paint No. is 25 as appears on the body tag.
  11. I'm also restoring a '51 Super Riv. Model 52. I bought a front and rear carpet set from Newark Auto. It's a decent quality, easy to install, not too much money. I can provide a few close ups of the doors if you desire. Have fun !
  12. This spring I performed a complete stock rebuild on my '51 Super's brakes including new front and rear axle seals, EXACTLY like Old Tank suggested above. Instead of rebuilding my master cylinder, I installed a repro one from CARs inc. in NJ. She stops great. I see no need to "upgrade" anything. I just keep an eye on all components and drive defensively, like riding a motorcycle. After reading Old Tank's post I do intend to drill and install a fitting this winter to monitor any tranny fluid leaking though. That sounds like a clever idea. Good luck.
  13. Thanks John. I had one of those on my Chevy but it fell apart after a few years. Maybe it was a cheap knockoff. I'm no electrician but I've read whatever is used, it be rated so as not to add any undue resistance in the starting circuit. Cranking amps on 6v systems are higher and need the best ground possible. Your switch is certainly the easiest solution. I wonder if there's a way to ascertain its rating.
  14. The idea was to prevent an accidental electrical fire during storage for either short or long term. The wiring is mostly original and there are some circuits that are hot all the time. Until I can upgrade the harness, my thinking was a switch was easier than keeping a wrench nearby to constantly disconnect the terminal. Also, while working on the car, I'd be inclined to use it more. So far, I've been using 61polara's method described above. I don't worry about theft protection. The pros would probably bring their own unmarked trailer.