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Everything posted by old-tank

  1. For sure use fire proof material, not just fire resistant. Some of the stick built stuff with the 'artsy' interiors will soon be 'crispy critters'...along with the cars.
  2. Usually the same material as the headliner. Darker material probably same vinyl that was used somewhere on the seats or door panels.
  3. Nah, new cam and lifters in addition to hone and rings. Probably only last 200K vs 300K if total rebuild.
  4. A 2 ton Sanden system will cool just as well since it recirculates the air. The A-6 was cooling outside air. Some systems had a 'max air' which recirculated, but only had a super high fan speed.
  5. An electric fuel pump is not just a convenience issue it is a safety issue! Think about it: there are times and places you really do not want to be disabled.
  6. That way you will be forced to have a fuel pump back at or inside the tank.
  7. Hopefully all you need to do is remove the filler plug with it hot and drain out the excess.
  8. Install an electric pump at the tank. Vapor lock occurs on the suction side of any fuel pump...any fuel pump will push fuel and any vapor in the line, so all those wraps between the fuel pump and carburetor are useless. Vapor lock is worse this year since (my research shows) the EPA is allowing the highly volatile winter blend fuel because of covid. And that winter blend boils at 100*F. Install an electric pump at the tank. You can turn it on 'as needed' or full time like I have to do this year.
  9. The Buick suppliers like CARS, Bob's Automobilia, Fuscik should have "chain-link" material, but no patterns. It might be possible to make patterns from pictures of a correct trunk (my cars all have factory AC with a big ol' evaporator in the trunk.
  10. Better to do it this year while the gas is cheaper.
  11. Holes or just pits? Pits: If painting good old Bondo will serve you well; if power coating then Alvin Products might work.
  12. To avoid injury or death, turn your flashlight on when around the garage. Then you can read the SIGN.
  13. Well that is a real bite when you have to modify the car or good parts to make an inferior part fit. Consider applying a rosebud torch while prying away from the frame and tightening the flange. I would be about ready to take a cutting torch to that POS crossover!
  14. No! That is not a Riviera specific topic. It is about brakes and all of our car have brakes. And it is about a disc brake conversion that maybe for once can be made to work.
  15. Gray fluid is bad! Put a drop on a very hot exhaust manifold: it should just smoke if trans fluid; if it sizzles there is water present. If water remove and plug the hoses to the cooler, drain the torque converter and remove the pan for cleaning. It is OK to drive locally for 10 mile trips. Repeat until no more water. If you leave the water it will sludge up and rust to the point that even a rebuild will not fix it. I had one like that and it was not even good for parts. If no evidence of water then some internal parts are being ground into fine particles (a magnet or filter paper
  16. Last 2 tanks Shell and Valero...suspected previously before I checked.
  17. I spent the last week (about 30-40 minutes every morning before it got hot) trying to figure out why my blue/white 55 is getting lousy mileage. It is getting 12-13 mpg and the expected mileage should be 14-16 for the same trips. It runs flawlessly. Ignition: plugs and wires good; timing good; vacuum and mechanical advance working; dwell good. Carburetor: dry outside and inside even with the electric pump running; rods working as expected; fuel pressure with and without electric pump good; electric pump has become necessary most of the time due to vapor lock and boils the gas out
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