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Everything posted by old-tank

  1. Diamondback tires are a good choice. I use them on one of my cars that sees 5000+ miles a year and last twice as long a bias tires. The previous tire was Coker silvertowns like your car has. There will be very little difference in ride and handling if all steering and suspension components are good. The tires on your car are about 12 years old and are by now hard and maybe flat spotted and out of balance. Your car does not have power steering and radials will increase steering effort. On some cars like my 55 the radials changed steering response: after turning a corner the steering whee
  2. How do you keep primer dust off??
  3. Yes. That is the way most of them are done. Some have upper body color everywhere except for the actual door skin below the door molding...and I have done them both ways.
  4. Pictures? Unique to 57?
  5. You can see some of it in the circle. use a flat blade screwdriver or nut driver with a flexible shaft and access it from the back. The upside down one is the fast idle screw while the choke is engaged.
  6. It is a screw with a long 3/8" hex accessed from the back under the weight hanging and near the carb start switch. I love my WCFB carburetors, but this is a feature that could be improved on.
  7. Thanks for the reply. I learned something: earlier cars had that valve in master cylinder. If you think the valve is bad, you may not find parts unless it is universal, but then you would have to buy a MC kit for something like a 55. Check Summit Racing for a "residual pressure valve" that you may be able to adapt. Actual bleeding technique? vacuum bleeder? Assistant? Will it pump up at all?
  8. Describe or take a picture of this item so I know what you are talking about. Describe your procedure for bleeding brakes.
  9. Disconnect the vacuum advance set with the engine idling as low as possible (300rpm). Mine likes 7 degrees with the available fuel. Valves are not adjustable. Disconnect the coil and crank with the throttle wide open. Follow directions on YOUR gauge pertaining to hook up. Record findings.
  10. Yes, really: it is a stupid ugly vehicle
  11. Pressurize the tank with low pressure air which will push gas to the pump and carb or show leaks that are keeping the pump from pumping.
  12. Just change jelly-bodied to jelly bean.
  13. What does your service manual say? Replace the gasket and use the one that was functioning on the the car. The original WCFB is best for your car.
  14. WHEN it pops out again, you can limp home: just tie a string at the carb and feed it through the vent window. After a few miles you will get the coordination down like you did it all your life.
  15. Give me a flashlight and some knee pads and I will look at it to be sure it is correct.
  16. Killing bugs and killing the planet. (While I still can)
  17. Anything 'dug up' is junk like yours and will soon fail like twice on mine (far from home). I used something like this: HERE I cut and treaded the end of the old rod...
  18. Is that transmission pan stock for that car or did I miss the upgrade?
  19. Smart or lucky that you kept the original carb... Too many times when I bought 'rebuilt' units, it turned out that I was buying someone else's trouble, and especially true of carburetors.
  20. Take a break and go for a drive in your other one...then dive in! Sanding off the guide coat means it is 90% finished.
  21. Have you found the starter relay? Contacts can stick and cause cranking anytime the key is on. High resistance at the rivets inside will result in less than optimal voltage to the solenoid causing those contacts to stick causing cranking without input and even cranking after running. I usually go to the carb switch first, but seldom find a problem there...it is usually the starter relay.
  22. That bumper amplifies the "sad face" look.
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