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Everything posted by old-tank

  1. Was it level before these replacements?
  2. Springs not equal or bent/twisted frame. Swap springs or stack spacers on the low spring.
  3. Driving the Century is the best therapy of all!
  4. I hope this is recent work, which means you are feeling better.
  5. https://www.bobdrake.com/ Search trunk mats and insulation
  6. Check the height at the frame.
  7. Discovered a leaking diaphragm in the vacuum advance unit on my 55. I ran fine at idle, but surged on the highway. Anyhow I replaced the diaphragm and installed a lighter spring. The lighter spring is an experiment that can be changed without removing the distributor. This will keep the ignition advanced longer when vacuum level drops. It runs fine now, but may end up with part throttle detonation in hot weather. Either way it should improve the gas mileage which had been dropping off lately. While I had the distributor out I changed the points and condenser. I use old stock Standa
  8. Just want to know if it fits 55 power brake.
  9. Which car(s) did you use that pressure bleeder on?
  10. Unless you are disabled with only one good arm leave it off. And there has to be a reason they are called suicide knobs and knuckle busters. They are handy on equipment where you steer with one hand and operate controls with the other or hold your beer.
  11. Keep the mechanical fan. An electric fan that would match or exceed the output of the mechanical fan would pull more amps than your (probably) 30 amp system can do.
  12. Uncle Bill, you're spending all of my inheritance!
  13. You are sick (like the rest of us).
  14. RockAuto ships from many locations and sometimes your order will be shipped from many locations with a separate shipping charge from each location. You might pay more for shipping on those clips than they're worth.
  15. Do it yourself with pinstripe paint or take your project to a sign company for them to apply the paint or vinyl.
  16. After you get it working again, flush the fluid every 2 years and the parts will last at least 30 years. I replaced 2 of mine after 35 years but the replacement Raybestos cylinders had metric bleeders and were much harder to bleed: lots of tapping with a hammer and used method similar to Mudbone's pressure on the pedal.
  17. With my memory these days, I'd have to say I don't think so. 🙄 The car was restored some 20 years ago and suspect that is the last attention that was given to it. No decision to think about: if your steel lines are in good shape, replace all wheel cylinders and hoses and re-sleeve the master cylinder (probably less than $300). Check RockAuto for the parts or part numbers to search elsewhere.
  18. You can do it by yourself if you keep the hose under some fluid in a jar. Open the bleeder, give it 4 slow pumps, close bleeder, move on to next wheel after filling the MC. I modify that technique by using a 60cc (2 oz) syringe hung above the wheel cylinder with the nose down...4 pumps will expel 40 cc of fluid (less if air in the system) I see no logical reason to do it in any set order and I don't. Best way is to adapt a MC cap to use a pressure bleeder. If you think you need help, never ever enlist your SO!!
  19. Just smile and wave at him. In the meantime get a picture of his vehicle and license plate in case he does something really stupid.
  20. Pressure test the current tank before condemning it.
  21. The other vehicles in the photo appear to from the 1960's. Wish there was more info on that big old Buick.
  22. Maybe try to run them under, but not touching the manifold. Really hard to make that contemporary loom look good.
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