old-tank

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Everything posted by old-tank

  1. There is an attached dynaflow. Dynaflow is a contraction of "does not float".
  2. Try the back of the engine...may have to move the points to adjust. Just do it!
  3. THIS beauty ring that I bought for my Ford truck was exactly like the ones that came on my Buick...and much cheaper than Buick suppliers. Caps should be easy; clips if not present are hard to find. If those Coker Classics are bias ply, you can count on another 10 years out of them unless flat spotted from sitting.
  4. For that car, just remove the end plugs to remove from the car. Disassemble, clean and inspect. About the only thing that goes wrong is broken springs. When adjusted according to the service manual there will be some "play" due to compressing of the springs.
  5. On some cars after switching to radials the steering wheel will not return to center after a turn; increasing caster is way to solve.
  6. Thanks for posting the picture of the heater hose next to the fuel line. Driving in the winter with the heater on and using the highly volatile winter blend gas will result in vapor lock. Until I installed an electric fuel pump, I had to leave the heater off...drove me crazy! Throw your old hoses away and use THIS when replacing...but keep you pictures and description of routing.
  7. What does the other end attach to and how long is the run?
  8. More on the HAMB Here dude said he was doing 80 miles per hour on the interstate and his drum brakes didn't work well enough. (I can lock mine at any speed)
  9. Service manual + just do it and learn as you go. Easy to pull engine and tranny together with the front end parts off. Leaving the engine and tranny together is easier to store until you get around to working on them.
  10. Good idea, but be advised that gear lube from the differential may show up if the pinion seal is defective. If you find gear lube, just leave it since it will find a level below the driveshaft and is no problem. If transmission fluid or a mixture, take action at the front of the torque tube.
  11. Now we can go to orphan car shows and meets.
  12. I have bled brakes every way but by the book and am convinced it makes no difference. "Maybe" if on a completely dry system you might pull air from a line while bleeding another line...just bleed again. I too back off 6-7 clicks after tight and write down for each wheel; then when I adjust after 10,000 miles I know how much difference...usually 2-3 clicks. New shoes are checked every 1000 miles until stable.
  13. They came with special nuts? I've just been using nut, lock washer and washer combo On 55 for sure, yours may be different. Check your carbs for marks from the star washers.
  14. I usually don't like the lowered look with thin tires, but in this case and photo angle it fits this car.
  15. Not a problem. If you take the torque converter apart, you need to mark. Attaching torque converter to the flex plate: align the relief holes for the 2 drain plugs and the 3 attachment points and you will be correct; I have seen some that were attached with the drain plugs covered (somebody had their head "up and jammed"); it would not hurt to mark, but if you pay attention it is "not a problem".
  16. It made sense at $5,000.
  17. Not really, just be sure to retain the nuts holding the carb to the manifold (hard to find 5/16-24 with 7/16 head with internal star washers)
  18. Ha! Not for me: 2000 miles away and and I would need it to be 30-40 years ago to consider.