c49er

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Everything posted by c49er

  1. I think valve to guide clearance should be a max of .010" side to side to play get .005". 1/32" is way too much wear in any valve guide.😏
  2. Crosleys' I think are all floor shift top loaders too?
  3. The heavy dodge truck large 30" head engines originated back in the 30's....they came in several displacements.. 281, 306, 331, 377 and the last and biggest the 413 ending in 1955. Here is the 413 engine...
  4. That plate is a block off plate for a optional type accessory heater... Mounted on the Passenger side of the firewall..
  5. The contact points are almost always the issue with these 1951-54 Mopar 6 volt cars. They need to be carefully... lightly filed clean. But here is the way I bench test them.... 1) Connect the Battery charger leads -(NEG) to the BIG relay Stud...connect the + (POS) to the relay base for a ground 2) I ground one of the outer top studs (top left) to the relay base with a jumper wire.............actually connects to the Regulator or GEN "ARM" terminal on the car for the relay coil Grd. 3) I connect a jumper lead to the BIG bat cable 6V feed stud and tap touch the other end of the jumper wire to the right stud which closes the relay points making the clicking . Doing this closes the relay points sending 6 volts to the starter solenoid via the center relay stud terminal. 4) The center of the three studs is the 6V feed wire to the starter solenoid. .I connect my volt meter to that stud and the relay case ground to check that 6 volts is supplied to this center stud as the relay contacts close.."click"
  6. Open it up and clean the contacts...simple...you won't find one of those easily. Or cheaply.
  7. Chrysler came out with "Hydraguide" PS in 1951.
  8. There is an easy check for 3/5 brake fluid.... Put a sample of old brake fluid in a clear glass.... add a small amount of water... stir up ..wait 5 minutes. If there is a blob of water at the bottom of the glass...DOT 5 Silicone fluid...if no glob of clear water the water mixed in with the old DOT 3 Brake fluid.
  9. Model 392= C39-N New Yorker Body 5 = 6 Passenger Sedan Paint 3= Newport Blue "Dark" Trim 33 = Tan Leather SPEC. FO.4625 = Special order, Factory Order number....Sales and Export reference Only.... SCHED. 424 =Master Schedule Number or Special order by Dealer.... ITEM NO. 0323 = Master Schedule Item Number...
  10. That Body Build plate codes to.............. Model 382=C38 -W Windsor Body 2 =Club Cpe PA 16 = Regal Maroon Trim 15 = Maroon and Tan Broad Cloth RA 1= Philco 8 Tube Radio Model 802 AN 2 = Concealed Cowl Antenna left hand Side
  11. They all should use the same kit......although there are three different types of pistons used depending on who made the cylinders. That requires different rubber piston cups.... I'd re-sleeve or buy new. New Chinese cylinders are questionable as for fit and leakage in a year or two. Done many of these jobs over the years.
  12. Old thread but I did find the 53-54 Imperial Hdtp or convert power window motors if still needed.
  13. Tie rod and pitman arm puller is the best way to prevent shock damage through the steering gear. With those tools you can also remove good parts with out damage to the rubber boots too...tie rods and ball joints etc.
  14. Open up the starter relay and see what is wrong.... maybe it's wired up wrong or the points on the starter relay are stuck closed... maybe the starter solenoid is actually the issue....more diagnostics required... If your car was a 145" LWB Crown Imperial it would use a 12 volt system. You have the Std Imperial 6 volt system
  15. Red and tacky Lucas grease is plenty tacky. You really don't need extra sticky tacky grease to do the job... careful assembly procedure is the key as already mentioned. NGLI # 2 grease will be good enough. #0 or 00 thin is a bit thin.
  16. c49er

    Engine knocking

    Could be a chuck of carbon on the piston top. I had it happen on a 500 Caddie Eldo. Sprayed a misting of water down the carb...it went away. Pull the plug wires first as mentioned.
  17. I use only straight 30...have for nearly 40 years on my straight 8's. I tried 10/30 briefly...oil pressure dropped to 25 lbs hot idle...went back to 30W...... 40 lbs hot idle ...50 cruising. I like that. that's what it runs with 30W. That DS button will do the same as what I use but maybe a little more hand operation! Glad it makes the M-5 more pleasurable to operate and drive.
  18. Never heard of two battery's in a row having complete failure when new !!!!!!!!!!! Glad I retired working on cars for 40 years. The replacement parts business is at an all time low IMO.
  19. 1953/54 Plymouth's brake light switches were polarized.... using male and female bullet connectors on the switch...1/8" pipe threaded fitting. 1951 and back used two female bullet connectors..1/8" pipe threaded fitting
  20. I hope people were not parting it out!