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About Zimm63

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  1. I think you have scared the OP off, he has not been back. Easy to flip a $1,000 car for $500. Not $500 profit, $500 loss. Given the elementary level of the questions, that would be the expected outcome in my book. Never could figure out why people think TV is real.
  2. If you are working on a 63, that brake light switch can fail. Mine did.
  3. Ummmm. I'm a little foggy on this right/wrong thing, but end up wrong a lot of the time. Tom- can you be more descriptive of how the gaskets can be installed incorrectly? Knowing that, I assume the correct way is simply not the wrong way as there are only two choices.
  4. Interesting car from a bad era. Not much from the middle 70s was very good as GM tried to figure out how to deal with emissions, mileage, etc.
  5. Fat retaining ring is now in my pile of interesting stuff that might find another use. NOS ring was installed as per the original: Wide part toward the bearing.
  6. OK, test drive done and improvement noted. Still not perfectly smooth, but with the cam in the motor I'm not sure it ever will be. What is gone is the vibration in my butt that was bothersome. I did check the endplay on the axles and got 14-15 thousands of movement on each side. Only theory I can come up with is that's in the bearing for reasons stated above. I wasn't able to feel anything in the bearing before it was assembled, but the axle gives more purchase and leverage to detect movement. Chasing this down involved a couple little things beyond the driveshaft. None of them may have been the problem, but its good to have them fixed. To recap: Center bearing was bad- replaced in revulcanized mount from Steele. Found bad yoke on rear driveshaft- yoke replaced with used one and rear half balanced. Drove the car for several months and was noticing vibration at 50-55 Changed out 8 year old tires- no improvement in vibration, but it was time for them to be gone. Rebalanced drive shaft as a unit- no help. If anything that made things a bit worse. While pulling the driveshaft back out, noticed there was play in the front yoke to the transmission. Measured out at 20 thou + Replaced front yoke with new, replaced rear bushing in transmission. Rebalanced driveshaft with new yoke. Tech noted that there was movement in the rear section that he had to resolve. Had trans mount revulcanized by Steele. Refurbished one was 1/4" thicker than the oily squished looking original. Pulled rear axles to check bearings- right one was dry, noisy, and had detectable movement with finger pressure. Replaced both rear bearings with NOS parts. That brings me to today. All of this took a number of weeks as parts were sourced, Steele did their thing with the mount, etc. The trans yoke even had a brief trip to Hawaii thanks to the USPS. I may still set up the tools and measure the alignment of the driveshaft as described in the manual. I have the tools, so why not? May as well take some time to see if I can get this thing dead nuts on. Buick obviously didn't think much of the set up as they changed it in 64. Wonder why the 3 U Joint shaft was Riviera only to start with? Probably never know. Thanks for the help and advice. Couldn't have gotten this done without it.
  7. One thing that has been bugging me overnight, and I want to recheck before road testing is axle end play. When putting things together yesterday, I noted a minor amount of end play in the left axle. Thinking about how this thing is put together, there should be no opportunity for end play except in the bearing itself. Inner race is pressed to the axle shaft and secured with a locking ring. No opportunity for movement there. Outer race is tight in the axle housing and retained by the plate. I checked the manual and don't see a spec for end float on the axles. If it was a TR3, it would be dealt with using shims. More later.
  8. Yes, bearing was marked 88128. Car is back together and ready for a test ride tomorrow. We will see what we see.
  9. I will echo that this is a time consuming and finicky job. I used fuzzies supplied by Clark's and don't remember considering throwing a rope over a beam. Stop for a beer, maybe. But that was about it.
  10. OK, second bearing is in hand. Its in a Federal Mogul box and appears to match the other one I got in a GM box. Neither matches the original bearing in that the outside diameter of the inside race is 2 1/8" and the original one has the same dimension equal to 2 1/2". That isn't a critical dimension, but the original locking ring outer diameter matches the inner bearing race, and the replacement does not. The locking ring (middle) is very different than the original and the GM replacement part, shown on the right. The thickness is 11/16" vs 3/8". Diameter is 2 5/16" vs 2 1/2" The additional thickness of the Federal Mogul ring would appear to be enough to interfere with the seal. My thinking is use the original GM ring and that the mismatch between the outer diameter of the ring and the inner race is not an issue. Am I overthinking this, or is there something I am missing?
  11. I would suspect that the average WVA farmer didn't have electricity in his house in the 1920s. Rural Electrifiction didn't really get going until the late 30s, with the REA.
  12. Seals and gaskets are from CARS, not NOS. I didn't check for numbers, but bearing #1 came in an original GM box from Buick Farm. Had the correct part #.
  13. Which carrier bearing did you end up using?
  14. The 63 manual describes a test to isolate driveline vibration from engine related vibration. Check, but I think this is it. Determine the speed at which vibration is noted. Divide that speed by 1.8. For example- 60 mph / 1.8 = 34 mph. Drive the car in low range at 34 mph. If you have the same vibration, look at engine related issues as Ed described. If no vibration, look at the driveline. Since you have changed out the dynaflow, figure out the rpm where it vibrates in drive, then run it at that speed in a lower gear.