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About c49er

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  • Birthday 09/18/1954

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  • Location:
    Woodieville, Wash


  • Biography
    Mechanic/welder do it all-er

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  1. I have have the same happen to my MoPar inline sixes and eights. Not too often but only when sitting. All with the rubber tipped needles. I just lightly rap the nose of the carb hearing the float drop. This never used to happen...might be the ethanol. I live with it. I have other things needing attention.
  2. Shipping has turned into a real killer in the instance you just posted...those sellers are real asses for not understanding your situation and will lose a possible new loyal customer.
  3. I have purchased those horse shoe clips (Brake "C" clip washers) off Ebay and from Napa. Also might try Robert's Mopar, AMS, Bernbaums, Vintage Power Wagon just to name a few. You could if you must use a "E" clip or external snap ring. I have plenty of used ones if you cannot find them. One or two hits with the hammer and the wrench positioned firmly and equally on the clip legs normally won't damage the clip. The same clips are also used on all eight wheel cylinder anchor bolts too.
  4. How many EV cars will end up dead on the roads running low on charge? Owners trying so hard saying I think I can make it... A new huge market for EV tow trucks.
  5. Was the K car a reliable well built car? Not in my opinion... But when running ok and not leaking oil they drive ok. Used to work on them back when they were relatively new. JMO
  6. Yes ...#42 drill. You will probably not find the Miller tool #C-723. Probably has not been made for 60 years!
  7. I think the adjustment pin/rod diameter is a # 42 drill size.
  8. Read the factory shop manual for setting the "sisson" choke... A special sized rod was used for an accurate adjustment but a letter drill that fits tight will work.
  9. The accelerator pump piston pushes a strong jet of fuel up that drilled passage. Running rich on cold start... Is your electric choke adjusted too rich? Is this carb on a 46-48 chrysler Windsor/Royal or T&C sedan? Getting at is it the right carb for the car. Why does it run just right now with out the ball plug.... Wrong main/step rich up jets could mask a weak accelerator jet... Just speculating...don't know This advice is worth what you paid for it..I need to get back to my E7A1
  10. The drilled passage under that ball plug is pressurized with fuel each time the throttle is pressed forcing gas through the accelerator pump jet. There is an aluminum access plug right at the end of the jet too. With out that aluminum plug or the small missing steel ball plug in place place the strong accelerator jet stream will be lost out of the missing plug and not be completely forced through the accelerator jet into the venturi. The small steel ball approx .140" is firmly pressed into the top end portion of the accelerator pump drilled passage. After it was drilled a steel ball was pressed partially down into that drilled passage and staked. Some I've seen are not staked. That accelerator jet also has a hole in the side to push fuel into that small square box cavity to mix air/fuel for emulsion of the venturi jet spray.
  11. In one of my first posts I did say the ball seals off a drilled passage way🙂
  12. The plug ball is just bigger than the hole. .It is pressed just to just slightly above the casting and staked in place. Last year I also rebuilt a carb with that ball missing...a core carb. I did measure the diameter but don't now remember the size. That is not a check ball. It must be in place to make the accelerator pump jet have a 100% strong squirt into the venturing area....otherwise fuel will spray up through the missing ball hole and do nothing but possibly cause a hesitation on quick hard acceleration.
  13. It's just a ball plug to seal off the end of a drilled passage way. Put the right size ball back in as OE. I have the same carbs on my MoPars.