c49er

We will agree to disagree then🙂 I have done many vintage car brake jobs...a lot of modern linings can be grabby or not so... The late 30's thru mid 50's MoPars with lockheed brakes have some special brake adjustment requirements...Ammco 1750 or Miller MT19 tools and a shoe arcer which I use on all the brake jobs....a must to make the brakes right from the start. Most of todays modern linings on the Lockheed type shoes don't give a safe feeling when stopping and are weak at best under. Can be grabby upon 1st few stops and after heating up too soft and weak under hard braking. JMO

I strongly suggest asbestos shoes as mentioned^^^^..not the modern slow and soft stop lining material probably made in a far off country of clay and charcoal.

The designation for the above Chrysler marine straight "8" also known as the "Royal" Chrysler marine M-43-S engine. The Chrysler straight "8" industrial engines also have a brass ID tag generally on the right rear of the block .. Industrial 8's will have a IND9, IND12, OR IND12A Stamped tags...could be a couple more designations too. The industrial 8 shown above is a IND12.

DOT 5 CANNOT be used in any newer cars with ABS systems... Most all modern cars specify 3 or 4. No way I know of to tell the difference between them DOT 3 AND 4 fluids. I have to check for DOT 3 AND 5 fluids in vintage cars quite a bit when doing brake jobs..The customers don"t know!

Is your wife's car an antique car? If it's a typical modern car all it should have is DOT3 or 4...never DOT 5 silicone. If an old car DOT could have typical DOT3/4 or silicone DOT 5 which doesn't mix with 3 or 4. To tell which type is in a car.. Put some water in a glass..put a few drops of the brake fluid in the water.. Stir..wait couple minutes..DOT 3/4 will mix in with the water Silicone DOT 5 will be seen as a oil blob at the bottom of the gallery of water.

Old dead thread...but you cannot easily swap in a later 1946-49 TipToe trans in place of the 1951-42 Simplimatic transmission. The wiring,vacuum and electrical controls are completely different between the two.

Not good.

Check for vacuum leaks...throttle body gasket leak?

Add .002" cold....That's what I do on all the MoPar new flathead rebuilds... Then...adjust them HOT... Depending on year/model .008",.010" intake .010",.012" or .020" They must be adjusted hot as a final adjustment..

I'll check back in a year for progress.

The vacuum tank is a large reserve tank to supply extra needed vacuum for the frame mount brake booster and wipers when under a heavy load. Leave it. The booster might have it's own fresh filter air intake or use the air cleaner for filtering intake air to the booster. The frame mount booster requires both fresh intake air and full checked intake manifold vacuum. Leave the oil bath air cleaner as it is good at filtering air but also acts as a carb air intake silencer. Drive that bus for a bit without the air cleaner and you will see how loud the carb sucking noise is going up a hill!!!! Really loud. Get a factory service manual for your bus if you really want to understand how and why it operates.

Great addition to this thread^^^^^

You need new pistons and rings and a valve job.

That radiator # 1494469 is for a 1953 to 54 MoPar V8 car. Reason is that 1494....came.out in 1953 and comes close to matching the numbers in the MoPar parts books. I found your rad # was updated to 1494643 in the 1961 MoPar Superceded parts.list book. That's all I can find on it. I think it's for a 53-54 chrysler V8 car myself. A lot of times the number on the part last few numbers never matches the parts books numbers..off by three.

No total thickness specified but shows each asbestos plate thickness as .133" This for a 9-1/4" 1937 Ply clutch. National Data Service Book1948