c49er

Clutch is not disengaging if grinding into non syncro reverse gear. Forward speed gears 1st/3rd are syncro'd... So you can kinda force the gear shifter and get into the forward gears with no grinding...with a slightly dragging clutch. You have a noise in the clutch FD area and a clutch that's not fully dis-engaging. Put that on the imediate to do list!

Certain years just had two loose "L" hook clips that held the dog house down at the back...

With todays fuels you you could advance your timing 2-4 degree's for best pick up and overall performance....as long as the engine does not ping under heavy loads say going up a long steep grade or accelerating hard.

Retired several years ago.

I have and use that 49-52 tool too. I have many many old factory Miller service tools I use on the 30's thru mid 50's MoPars... Some of the smaller ones...

I now remember you do have that rare tool!

If....your clutch over center spring adjustment was done 100% correct ...(I assume you down loaded the template of the factory Miller tool).. ....then you adjust clutch pedal stop bolt adjusting the pedal arm to stop 1/4" from the underside of installed floor boards. Make same adjustment on the brake pedal so both pedals are equal height. Then properly adjust clutch fork push rod to provide 1" of free play at top of the clutch pedal movement. The brake pedal needs 1/4" to 3/8" of free play. Clutch Pedal should positively and easily return to full up and back against stop bolt. I lightly use the toe of my foot my foot to carefully feel that proper 1" of free play. It is critical for proper over center spring adjustment to obtain OE factory clutch and linkage feel and operation. Note: The lower over center spring bracket cannot be bent but exactly 90 degree's other wise your adjustments are wrong.

Keep the nails trimmed, use powder tide or Gain laundry soap. Been doing this for years...pinky white fingers, usually never need a nail brush unless doing diesel work. Way better than so called mechanic soaps.

I just fixed that same common issue on my 48 Chrysler.

Your double nut adjustment is wrong at top of the shift rod next to the steering column. Back em off a turn at a time just till it shifts into low range...road test... recheck at a stop a couple times.

You know more than 99.999% of the people here.

Six cylinder T&C's, 139" LWB 7 pass Sdn and Limo's with heavy chassis as used on all the eight cylinder cars use the 11" eight cylinder hup caps. ***Chrysler script pt. #1125077 ***No script plain pt. #1121201 Original white and stainless factory trim rings 6 or 8 in good condition for sale are extremely rare.

Hope your new VR is not a new offshore electronic...weigh 1/2 as much as an original with the wire wound resistors. And last half as long or less.😒

All this just to get a timing light to work....time to snooze.

My cars are 1946-52 MoPar 6 volt positve ground. They are Autolite "A" circuit type systems. The way I test for which is the problem...genearator or the regulator is to use a jumper lead and ground the field terminal of the regulator while the is running. Then rev the engine quickly and only for a couple seconds....if the amp meter or voltage meter shows no imediate big positive increase reading then the generator or wiring is the issue. If you do see a huge quick increase of amps or voltage then the regulator is the problem. In my 50+ years with my MoPars usually it's a faulty regulator issue causing a no charging issue.