c49er

Those tank strap nuts are not a regular nut. They are hex at the top and about an 1" of tubular threads below the hex. I have removed dozens of those nuts and straps. Most break the top of the strap even using vise grips, penetrate etc. I cut them off at the strap threaded portion leaving at least 1/4 to 1/2" below the tube hex nut. Then remove the strap and nut. Using only an oxy/ acetylene torch heat the nut red hot...apply candle wax to the inner nut with threads and immediately remove the broken remaining threaded strap bolt from the nut. I think "moparpro"

Old Leather seals tend to trap moisture at the contact surface and over many years causing pitting on the shaft that won't polish out. ...speedi-sleeve required if possible with modern rubber lip seals. Otherwise use the leather seal soaked in oil on a slightly pitted shaft that cannot be replaced.

Some huge fines to pay if the DOT finds one or more violations. They usually find something.

It can be done...the last one I did was a 55 Plymouth boot. Used grease and teo people to push and pull it through the bell and around the pin. Was hard to do.

I like "Lavalier" floppy's...both short and long...Chrysler jewelry at it's best.

The 1947 Chrysler choke on the manifold is called a "Sisson" choke. Shown above is the 6 cylinder choke unit. The 323 eight cylinder Sisson choke units look similar but have a rectangular black box cover on top and are very hard to find new and costly. The choke unit mounts over an asbestos heat controlling gasket on the exhaust manifold. Prevents the choke plate from opening too soon. Adjusted correctly these choke units are and very reliable.

Relay contacts are dirty. Open up relay...bend cover retaining tabs....remove cover carefully clean contacts. That relay is near impossible to find.

And did you replace the flex hose at the fuel pump? They crack and cause a vacuum leak...decrease of fuel supply to pump.

The metal Oilite filter is attached to the end of the fuel tank pickup tube. A round flat disc looking thing. No way to remove it or clean it other than making sure fuel easily flows thru it. When the tanks are cut open most remove that factory filter.

Maybe look at... ***Oilite filter in the tank ***Rubber hose at fuel pump...cracked old ***Fuel pump ***Small insulated wire in distributor grounding out as breaker plate advances

Someone in the national Chrysler Club with a 1941 non FD Chrysler OD would be able to answer that question. John Meslow back east might know the answer.

The Chrysler fluid coupling is just that... No torque multiplication is produced with the Chrysler Fluid Drive coupling sorry to say. Chrysler first came out in 1951 with the Fluid Torque Drive....a rear torque converter coupling. Excellent acceleration from a dead stop! Unlike the typical Fluid Drive equipped Chrysler cars with the M4,5 and 6 hydraulically operated transmissions.

It's been out of the car for 10 years and needs to be pulled out of a storage bldg. It's a core engine pretty complete less the Fluid Drive and bell housing. I would use a backhoe to move /load it.

It's a 1948 Chrysler Windsor engine. $50.00...you come and get it.

Chrysler "8" manifolds don't weld repair. As said already. I've seen and heard of several failures. I only replace then with good used. Even then there are a few things to do before installing a used manifold on one of these engines. Long engines require the manifolds to be able to "creep".