Hans1

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About Hans1

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  1. I have them, but a dedicated person can use a long needle nose pliers or a tongue depressor ( like Dr office ) or piece of coat hanger wire. Just straighten the tee and pull it up.
  2. info previously provided: He should use info to help others identify if they might have needed parts. also Ebay has Dyneto book with pictures of parts was previously informed of, (NOT MINE ) ///////////////////////// Posted February 8 I hope this helps with your search DIXIE FLYER 1919 model HS Serial numbers 5001 to 7000 Ignition Connecticut Starter Dyneto Model DA Bendix drive Generator Dyneto Model CA ///three styles of generator with same ID of " CA " ///////////////// ...........................3rd brush as on Dixie Flyer 1919 to 20 ...........................3rd brush as on Moore 1917 to 18 Model 30 ...........................3rd brush as on Crow-Elkhart 1917 to 21 series H,K and L ////////////////////////////////////////// other info that might help with interchange: 1916 to 17 Serial numbers 3500 to 5000 Ignition Connecticut Starter Model Dyneto UA Bendix Generator Model Dyneto VA vibrating regulator //////////////////////////// 1915 to 16 Serial numbers 1000 to 3000 ignition Cinnecticut Starter Model Dyneto MG Generator Model Dyneto MG ///////// source Standard Auto Electric Manual fo previously provided: He should use info to help others identify if they might have needed parts. ///////////////////////////////
  3. My old Dykes Manual has the fix: Use a spare tire, and "Tap or Rap " the end of the motometer on it until the RED fluid is at the base.
  4. Well, I would think that a working switch is sooooo much better than no switch. Any driver will learn the order of the light/switch sequence. On one of my cars, sequence is Off, cowl light, bright head light and dim head light. The add for the switch had two other manufacturers preferences.
  5. Why not buy them all, and modify them to help others
  6. Here is one on ebay now for 35 dollars, buy it now NOT MINE I saw it the other day and then saw your note a Chrysler product so some mod needed but its there and reasonably priced https://www.ebay.com/itm/1934-DODGE-CHRYLSER-DESOTO-HUPMOBILE-CLUM-ROTARY-LIGHT-SWITCH/283371209684?hash=item41fa3d83d4:g:fzgAAOSwIntbtApV:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true
  7. Looks like a tag on the starter and a partial tag on the distributor. That is possibly our beat chance to identify it.
  8. Any numbers on distributor tag or starter tag? Any thing that might be an engine serial number? Interesting looking motor, Over head valve or valves?
  9. Hans1

    Dixie Flyer

    1. Bjornv, do you have a starter? ( what is your actual need ? ) 2. If in need of a starter, or repair of one then the booklet previously listed as being on Ebay has pictures and parts listing. ( not my book ) 3. Personally. I am always collecting information about things I am interested in.
  10. Hans1

    Dixie Flyer

    I hope this helps with your search DIXIE FLYER 1919 model HS Serial numbers 5001 to 7000 Ignition Connecticut Starter Dyneto Model DA Bendix drive Generator Dyneto Model CA ///three styles of generator with same ID of " CA " ///////////////// ...........................3rd brush as on Dixie Flyer 1919 to 20 ...........................3rd brush as on Moore 1917 to 18 Model 30 ...........................3rd brush as on Crow-Elkhart 1917 to 21 series H,K and L ////////////////////////////////////////// other info that might help with interchange: 1916 to 17 Serial numbers 3500 to 5000 Ignition Connecticut Starter Model Dyneto UA Bendix Generator Model Dyneto VA vibrating regulator //////////////////////////// 1915 to 16 Serial numbers 1000 to 3000 ignition Cinnecticut Starter Model Dyneto MG Generator Model Dyneto MG ///////// source Standard Auto Electric Manual
  11. we hope others will chime in to help you identify your neat car. Initial observation is that of an Essex Sportabout, or also called a Boat Tail body. the Grill shell certainly resembles a 1928 Essex shell. Rad Shell is mounted higher with a filler strip added to meet Hood. The cowl has the hole for the Saddle Cowl lights. The hood louvers are at an odd angle to the hood hinge line, perhaps metal added. Front and rear fenders are a different conformation than I am used to, they look very European and the fender light looks "MG like. Essex Serial Numbers 337845 to 439752 (1st series) 439573 to 499999 (2nd Series) wheel base 110½ inches. / Serial number of 405213 seems to fit into the earlier set of numbers for Series 1. / Now it would be much better to have pictures of engine and transmission. The length of the wheel base from hub cap to hub cap, will be more meaningful. On right rear frame horn to spring support, there should be a serial number stamped into the forging part. ////////////////////////// There is too much to note in comparing this picture to what is familiar to me. 1.Windshield is a style used in 1928 by several car lines including Essex and Hudson. 2. Bead line on hood and cowl are similar to Essex 3. radiator shell appears similar to 1928. ( 1926 had a peak at top center of shell ) 4. the length of the drivers door from front to back 5 Picture of dash 6. additional pictures of body from sides and rear. 7. Are there front wheel brakes? ///////////// A lot of things come to mind and if car was campaigned in races the body may have been put on another chassis. I know several people will be looking forward to your responses and additional pictures. Hans
  12. GRIZZ Just reflect on the wonderful amount of information that is provided with the help of so many AACA helpers. That is what is so good about our AACA people. I wrestled with the same thoughts, and decided to obtain a 2 Post, 10,000 lb, Challenger. Had it installed by local Rep distributor of the company. At 79 crawling to adjust arms under car is not bad, the best part is having most any part at the height I want. Let us know what you decided to do
  13. Number on Distributer or other items like starter or generator?
  14. a movie of the Tupelo facility http://www.tvraaca.org/tupeloautomobilemuseumi.htm#