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29 Chandler

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  1. I'm not even going to ask where to order a "gozinta" 🙂 Thanks Gary that made me laugh!
  2. I confirmed that all of the grease exited the seal on the top. The one seal that has to move as the drive shaft changes its pitch relative to the joint. The rear seal is also empty, all of the liquid grease exited. I think I am going to refill with the Aero grease (NLGI #1) this weekend after I clean up the underside of the car.
  3. Gary and Ed thanks for all your thoughts on this topic. Sorry I am late to the party, living on the West Coast and working all day it takes me longer to catch up. Gary looks like you found the same thread that I found looking up this issue. The universal joints have a 1/4" x 1/8" sealing the fixed base part of the outer cover. I doubt much leaked out of that end as it was a pretty tight seal going back together. The other end that attached to the driveshaft has to move and slide on the smooth metal face connected to the driveshaft. My guess is that is where it is leaking past the seal. One reference I found from 1919 showed this as a hemp gasket which I expect is still on there from day one. My owner's manual specifies "cup grease" while a 1919 version of Dykes says semi-fluid grease. The grease I took out of there and that was not providing much lubrication for the bearings was probably wheel bearing grease NLGI 2. Is obvious now the NLGI 00 grease I tried is too thin, but probably provided great lubrication while it was in there. I have on order some Lubriplate Aero NGLI 1 that I plan to fill the housing up with. But in re-reading Terry's thread maybe the corn head grease is the golden ticket. I have a tour coming up in about 10 days so I hope I can get this sorted out before then. I noticed in Terry's thread he removed the pipe plug and installed a Zero fitting to fill the joint housing. Would that have been the way it was done back in the teens (rather with a period fitting of course)? If so I wonder why the pipe plug was used?
  4. The bushings on my Hartford Universal Joint failed. Luckily the joint housing contained the the shafts and keep it all together. I would not have known about it had I not been under the car adjusting the brakes. I wiggled the drive shaft just to check it and was surprised it had a lot of play in it. After taking it apart the PO used what looks like wheel bearing grease. Most of the grease was flung to the inside of the outer housing. My 1914 manual says the joints should be refilled with cup grease every 1000 miles. A couple of friends welded new metal back in and installed new bushings so the universal joint is as good as new now. After doing some research on the Forum I say a suggestion to use Smitty "00" grease. This is a semi fluid grease that I thought would do a better job of keeping the bearings lubricated. Unfortunately after my first drive today all of the grease got thrown out past the seals in the housing. What type of grease should I use now? Lubriplate Aero with a NLGI ratting of 1 is thicker and available at Restoration Supply. First picture shows the joint without the bearing. Second picture shows the restored universal joint Third picture show the fully installed joint with the outer housing that is meant to keep the joint lubricated and clean. The screw on the left is where the grease is inserted.
  5. Lots of good comments here. From what I have read and heard there were several factors that helped set the 1915 cut off date: By 1915 the oddities of the earlier cars was gone, most all cars have modern equipment now mass production was underway by 1915 Left hand drive is the norm brass is in the past I think there is one factor that I know is an issue today in our club and was certainly a concern in the pre-digital days of the 1940's. The club was growing in leaps and bounds. No longer was it just a group of like minded people in SoCal. With WW2 some members were overseas, club membership was over 2,000, and regional chapters had started forming across the US. The desire to control or focus growth to the older cars became more important for the club leadership. This fact alone would have driven me as a board member at the time to try and put a cap on growth.
  6. Wayne thank you for taking the time to thoughtfully and extensively add to the discussion. The main purpose for my original post and posing this question out to the forum is that our Regional Chapter of the HCCA is celebrating it's 70th anniversary this weekend and I have been volunteered to speak about the history of our club and in particular our chapter. Being one of the youngest members in the group they asked me to take a fresh look at our club's history. So I have been digging through old copies of the Gazette and just found this from 1951 directed to all National Members: In recent months it seems that the most asked question has been, "why is it that on tours, field meets, etc., cars are restricted to the 1915 period and prior?" or words to that effect. In order to reach as many members as we possibly can answer, we trust the following will fill the bill: With reference to the annual tour, it has become an absolute necessity to limit the age of participating cars because of the tremendous increase in members in the section of the country from which the tour emanates. If we were to leave the age of the car unlimited, we would have a caravan that would reach from starting point to Yellowstone Park, before we turned a wheel. Not only would this hamper the entire undertaking, but spectator appeal would be lost if cars of a later vintage were included. The earlier the car, the more unusual is its appearance and the more interest it arouses --- and after all our "Generous" sponsor (General Petroleum Corp.) has a definite purpose in mind, namely to get the public out to see something different. We feel that in all fairness to them, as well as to establish and maintain a uniform rule. That's what they said in 1951 when a 1915 car was only 36 years old (think 1985 in today's world). A lot of it jives with what has been said so far on this thread. I am still looking for when this was added to the club's by laws. There was not mention of it prior to 1945.
  7. Production numbers, that makes sense to me. I am going to do some more research. I think it's also interesting to know about when the year was selected. There is no mention of it in the early issues of the Gazette 1945 and earlier. in fact it was quite common for cars of the 20's and 30's to participate in tours and meets. Thanks guys for the input so far this is where I was hoping the conversation would go.
  8. I am not finding much information on the Internet so I thought I would try here where there is the most activity around vintage cars. Back in 1937 a small group of Automotive Antiquarians formed the Horseless Carriage Club of America (in Los Angeles). At this this point the club was open to any year of car. For reasons, some time after 1945 they chose to include only pre-1916 vehicles. I am not questioning the cut-off year, that decision was made and has stuck with us since. The Brass Era had to come to an end at some point and the Nickel Era start. But why 1915? What was magical about the year 1915? As has been well documented on the Model T forums Henry's 1916 models were nearly identical to 1915. Where there inventions that were introduced in 1916 that distinguished the cars of that year from their predecessors? Electric lights and starters were already standard equipment on many makes in 1914. Four wheel brakes would not be the norm until the 1920's. So what made 1915 the magical year? I am curious to hear your thoughts on this subject. But please limit your contributions to the question at hand. It's too easy to get this thread off topic and try to argue that the year should be changed. That is not the point of this discussion please. Maybe it was to simply distinguish the club from The VCCA and ACCA?
  9. All of our cars have some history attached to them. Sometimes previous owners value the story about the car and much as you do. When this happens you may be lucky enough to acquire documentation and old pictures of your car. We were fortunate that the previous three owners of our Chandler kept records and pictures with the car as it changed caretakers over time. Not only is it fun to look back in time but also a valuable resource to see how your car has was once configured and compare that to its current state. For restoration this is an invaluable tool. Share with us pictures of you car "then" and now. Here's our 1914 Chandler back in 1957 when it changed hands for the first time in Iowa. The second owner's grandkids are pictured in the car. My now picture was taken in Pasadena CA during a tour our chapter of the Horseless Carriage Club took to visit the homes of some of our club's founding members. This year the club celebrated 70 years!
  10. 1904 Pope-Hartford Model B, possibly the oldest Pope too. Now lives a few miles from me 🙂
  11. I second your thoughts on Bill. I live less than a mile from where Bill lived and produced the magazine. He became a friend and mentor. At the time I was working on my 1929 Chandler with the Westinghouse Brake Booster. He took one look at the Westinghouse unit and offered to do a series of articles on restoring it. He wound up doing a seven articles on the restoration of that booster. I am forever in his debit. He was a true friend of every car lover!
  12. Hi Vicente, It was nice talking with you too. These pictures sure are neat there are so many things to learn just studying the details in the pictures. I think you are correct about the belly pan. I was trying to figure that one out but did not consider it was from their car. In one of the photos there might be another car in front of the American Berliet as you can see a man standing up above the car. That would explain how they had room for three people and the hood in the car. The photographer might have rides in another car.
  13. American Berliet became American Locomotive Company (Alco) in 1908.
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