29 Chandler

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  1. Thanks Mike You might say Harold has been whispering to me. I would love to come up and help with your two Chandlers. Just promise we can go for a ride in your Lozier.
  2. MikeC5 thanks for your added information. I wanted to double-check my facts as I don't want to spread any false information about this engine. I finally found a line in one of the the original brochures that refers to the crankshaft bearings like this "Liberal sized bearings of white bronze." The men who designed and built the Chandler car were a group of seven men (executives) who worked for Lozier. They knew how to make well built luxury motor cars, but at Lozier they were not allowed to make a mid-priced car that could compete on a grander scale in the market. The Lozier Model 77 is what my car was modeled after. They left Lozier and founded Chandler. Our 1914 Chandler is one of the few left that represent what Chandler first produced before they started designing and created new designs and engines. Below is an early 1913 Chandler ad that tells more about the first Chandler cars.
  3. No babbit here. This is a pressure feed and dip system and meant to be run with very low pressure, In fact for the driver there was no gauge or sight glass for you to use. To check for oil flow you were expected to open the hood and look at the small sight glass on the side of the block. The added gauge is a nice add on. I am replacing the modern gauge with one from a Chandler of the 1920's. Still modern for the car. Here is the difference in the oil pump before and after. Quite a difference, you can see through the screen now. We have had the car for about a year now and it has always run very well, a testament to the previous owner who cared for it for almost 60 years.
  4. Thanks email sent to Olson's for the crush gaskets which my parts manual says I need 12 of.
  5. Interesting I did not know there was supposed to be a gasket there, more research to do. Incidentilaly the engine I am working on is a Chandler and Williams made the wrenches that Chandler recommended to its customers. I am looking at buying a Williams #471 adjustable spanner wrench (3/4" to 2") as the diameter is 2".
  6. Thanks guys, now I know what to look for.
  7. Looking for some hose clamps like in the attached picture. ID is 1 1/4" for the hoses. Thanks
  8. In order to clean and lap the valves on this 1914 engine I need to remove these caps. There must have been a common tool for this purpose. Can anyone share a picture of one or let me know what it is called?
  9. Thanks for the reply Mike. I did check the side clearance on them and all where 0.003 tp 0.005. Got the pan back on and oil back in this week. Car started right up. The previous owner had added an oil pressure gauge that seemed to work most of the time with a box of 5 psi at times. We really never knew how much oil pressure to expect as the owners manual does not give a rating. After the engine warmed up we saw between 3 and 10 psi on the gauge depending on engine speed. So thankful that we took off the engine pan and cleaned it out!
  10. A few more pictures. Chandler used three imported chains to drive the cam, generator, water pump/magneto. Hope I never have to replace those.
  11. Doing some regular maintenance on my 1914 Chandler Light Weight Six. The engine pan is an enormous 40" long aluminum casting. I have cleaned the entire pan and now sealed the inside with Glyptal and sealed the outside with POR-15 aluminum engine paint. Now before I put the pan back on I figure that now is a good time to inspect the bottom end. A little background here on this particular car. From new it has about 16k miles. The previous owner restored the car in 1960. I don't believe much has been done since then except tours and routine maintenance. My goal is to clean it up and seal the pan to try and prevent oil seepage. When I dropped the pan the oil in the pan was in pretty good condition. I expected a lot of sludge, but was happy there was not much. Aside from some old gasket material I did not find any traces of metal in the pan. I have looked at the cylinder walls and all are smooth with no scoring, yeah! It was suggested that I check the rod journals while I have the pan off. On initial inspection each has a bit of movement fore and aft on the crank. Before the pan was removed the engine was running smooth and quiet. I took the family for a 30 mile drive around town before I started the tear down for the pan cleanup. What should I check before putting the pan back on on the bottom end? Here are some picture of the project so far:
  12. So today I spent part of the day removing the studs around the engine pan.With the added thickness of the string there was no way to slide the aluminum pan off. So with jam nut and a lot of patience I was able to remove the pan, probably for the first time in 60 years. Very glad I did as the metal screen that serves as the filter for the oil pump was pretty clogged with dirty oil. The good news is the rest of the engine look to be in perfect shape. The cylinder walls have a nice glassy polish. The sediment in the pan was really not too bad either. On another note is also looks like there is not a gasket for the engine pan. I'll double check my parts list for 1914-1915 Chandlers, but I don't remember seeing one listed.
  13. Thanks I'll be using a modern sealant when I put the engine pan back on. Hopefully it will do a better job than the string.
  14. Here's a picture of a stud with the string wrapped around the stud under the lock washer. There has been oil dripping down each one of these studs for quite a while now, hence part of the reason for taking the pan off. I also am very curious to see how the bottom of the engine looks. It was probably last taken off in the early 60's when the car was completely restored.
  15. No, this is a short piece of string wrapped around each stud. There is no gasket, just gasket sealer.