ron hausmann

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About ron hausmann

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    ronaldhausmann@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Birmingham Michigan. Cars in Pontiac Michigan
  • Interests:
    Kissel Restoration and Exhibition. Owns the largest private collection of Kissel Kars and Kissels that exists. Specializes in "nickel-era" Kissels from 1916 - 1927, Models 6-38, 6-45, 6-55, 8-65, 8-75, 8-126. Also owns the most extensive cache' of spare Kissel engines, chassis, trim, wheels that exists anywhere.
    Also specializes in Yucatec Maya Archeology and 12 Grandchildren.

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  1. Here is the first set of restoration pictures for this project from this week. Frame selection and disassembly is underway. Unstacking car frames one at a time by one person with a shop crane is tricky. Need to keep cell phone on ones self in case of mishap. I’ve selected a complete 1917 Kissel frame which has its original vehicle number from 1917 on it. It’s rusty, very rusty, but all there including hard-to- find brake drums and mechanism. Will have to do ally of brakefree soaking to get parts off. I’ll also start sorting thru my Kissel parts stash to select pieces that will complete the chassis, hood, cowling, dash, etc.i have an unequalled stash of Kissel parts - useless to most everyone, but priceless to Kissel guys. Once disassembled, axles, frame, and many other chassis parts will be commercially blasted and black powder-coated. Ron Hausmann P.E.
  2. All, Well I finished my 1918 Kissel Gibraltar Sedanlette and am embarking upon my next challenge - a US Army Truck. I have accumulated four - five Kissel Model 6-38 frames, engines, and parts over the last five years. Although I don’t have complete bodies for them, nor enough parts to do complete cars, I DO have enough parts to do complete Kissel light trucks with wood bodies. Kissel did make US Mail and US Army tricks but none have survived. Some were based upon car frames. Pictures of these have survived. I am therefore going to build a 1917 Kissel US Army Truck, bodied as a troop carrier, using the below pictures as guides. I can also use Kissels contemporary sales pictures which sold complete chassis as guides. Maybe this one can be done in two years! The last one took over five, but I built a big house at the same time. Stay tuned. Ron Hausmann P.E.
  3. Hmmm. I guess you either like E & J Model 20 lights or not. Also, either you like those gun-handled Fyrac spotlights or not. Well I do like both so I'll chime in. On the E & J lights - - - One post above talks about these E & J never being standard Kissel factory issue - to my knowledge, yes that is initially correct. However, they were then dealer-installed by Kissel's dealer in Hollywood, California where (yes!) most Kissel Gold Bugs were sold. Below are pictures of two such cars which appear to have had these dealer-installed as standard in Hollywood. E & J Model 20's may sit for sale because folks price them high. Ives seen them offered for $3000 a poor pair - too much. If you've got an unrestored pair, you can get $1200 - $1500 right now. Contact me . On the pistol-grip Fyrac or Clymer spotlights - - - - These either look great on your 1920's car or crappy. They do look good on Kissels. Kissel used Clymer types as factory options. These are easily found on ebay. Unrestored ones go for $35 to $140, depending upon shape they are in and completeness. There are a dozen different handle and light tub variations. Beauty is an opinion, not a fact. Take care. Ron Hausmann P.E.
  4. All - Please somebody buy it! I want to start my next Kissel Kar restoration but just plain have no more realistic work space! Thanks, Ron Hausmann
  5. Well here’s another Of my Kissels, a 1924 Victoria Coupe, which is supposedly original. It has this tail light, WITH the jewels. So apparently kissel used both styles. Learn something every day. Ron
  6. There is no evidence of any pin striping on her. Ron
  7. Still for sale. Need the space for my next car project. Price reduced to $ 8,700. Good deal for that car in that shape! RON HAUSMANN
  8. Thanks Chris, Al, followed up but it was sold. thx. Ron
  9. yaghtflame - 1. my first thought is I've used JB Weld successfully on Stewart tank bottoms to seal leaks. the one in the picture is JB Welded. I think it could work equally well on tops. 2. My second thought is to just buy another top "with the guts" off of ebay. Those are usually listed and either work or not. RON
  10. Still for sale $9,000. Ron Hausmann’s
  11. Al - I’m actually looking for a Kissel truck frame, 1915-1925. Does your friend still have it? thank you. Ron hausmann
  12. Leroy, I’m sorry that I can’t answer your questions about the Daniels. I haven’t had much ability to view them. I suspect however that they were wood framed as most cars back then were. The Kissel has windshield braces behind the windshield for stability in my opinion. The big bolts that hold the windshields to the top of the cowls on both the Daniels and Kissel windshields Would produce quite a “moment” force or torque if you pull laterally the windshield top. ( I’m a structural engineer) . I think the angled brace reduces those stress probabilities by at least half. Maybe Daniels used more bolts or just gambled on fewer people pulling on the windshield. Finally, the windshields on nearly ALL Kissel models are different and sometimes different year-to-year. I myself as a Kissel expert, am just amazed at the variations that Kissel offered in their array of models. Hoods, door handles, cowls, lights, tail lights, and yes windshields differed model to model. These variations are also shown in the rare Kissel Parts Manuals which do exist. I have these manuals. They show a dazzlingly confusing assortment of model differences. If you restore Kissels, it is very, very hard to amass the correct parts to do a “correct” restoration - however, there are so few people, and fewer judges, who are aware of these many differences. Thanks, Ron
  13. Keiser31- Good eye. yes, temporarily there are two. The correct one with muffler comes out the back. But it’s not connected to engine yet. The temporary one under the running board is still on the exhaust manifold before the muffler - I need to fiddle a bit with the over engineered kissel connection. Ron