dodge28

I took the wheel off my 28 DB senior to Barry Welding Services in Ann St. in Barry Ontario. He made one to fit. 200 hundred dollars Canadian .

Just install the cylinders as they are given to you and use DOT 5 .

I think the engine has the incorrect combination of parts. The Chev engine needs a 4 barrel Carter Carb and needs to run on 93 Octane. I owned one of those in the 70's. Worked great until this 10 percent Ethanol was introduced in the fuel.

Fly overs are too costly both land wise and money wise. Takes too much land. Traffic is steadily increasing . Owning a car has become increasingly expensive to own and drive. In 1975 there was one car in my family of 4 . Today my 2 sons have a car each, my daughter in law has one and my 2 grand daughters have 1 each. That is in a space of 47 years. What is the projection for the next 40 years ? The highways are becoming creeping parking lots.

If I remember correctly the BB1 use an adapter 180 degrees on the manifold. these adapters are sort of home made. May be the flanges are not sturdy enough or not completely flat for gasket fit. I am having the same problem at present . The idle screw has no effect. I will have to do the propane test when I get the car running.

After use all acids must be washed with clean water and blow dry.

My suggestion is making your own cleaning flux. Take a pint of muriatic acid . Pour in a fairly wide receptacle and add pieces of galvanize tin. The acid will boil. Keep adding galvanize tin until the yellow acid becomes white. THAT IS NUMBER 1 soldering flux. Use a light flame about 350 degrees and warm the area and brush with the flux. repeat until the area gets clean. You will also notice when the existing old solder begin to melt. A 1/2 inch brush works fine.

I am subject to correction . In those days the ignition coils did not have oil in them. The coil inside were filled with a black stuff like bitumen. Even lighting ballast were filled with that stuff. (very Heavy). If the ignition coil in question has that bitumen stuff there is a fellow in Punta Gorda Florida who just repaired mine for a 1928 Dodge Senior. Return time is 2 weeks. Check him out. Cost you nothing. George Skip Haney, 29436 Tara lane Drive, Punta Gourda Florida33982 941 637 6698, 941 505 9085

The question is why do you still want to use the 6 volt starter to begin whit ? If it is the physical body make up of the starter to fit the vehicle then get the starter rewired to 12 volts instead of various kinds of gadgets all over the place. Both generator and starters can be re wired to suit any voltage. Even starter solenoids.

One simple way to check for vacuum leak. While the engine is running , however you get it running with choke in or out, use a propane torch ( not lighted ) open half way and point it around the manifold and any place you suspect vacuum leak. The engine will speed up when you hit the offending spot or spots. The vacuum leak at any one point will suck the propane gas . Another way is to spray Easy Start around but that gas is volatile and dangerous. May cause fire.

diagnostic ? contaminated oi;/water ? put some of the oil on a tin sheet and put some heat under it. If water is present it will pop ,pop under the heat.

Can it be a worn cam shaft ? I am looking forward to what you find wrong.

Mark Gregush, you are correct. It has limited effect on lime. Absolutely no effect on grease.

After repairing the rad it is time to put it to test. There are special cone shaped rubber plugs of different sizes on Amazon. Plug the lower outlet and use a rad pressure tester . Pump to 18 pounds and hold for 5 minutes. Watch for needle drop.

Jim Bolman, most leaks in engine blocks are in the frost plugs. The frost plugs holes are really for casting the block and not for frost. They are easily removed and replaced.