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About ramair

  • Birthday 06/22/1958

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  • Location
    Greenfield Ca.
  • Other Clubs
    The Packard club, Pierce Arrow society, VCCA, HCCA, Buick club, Allante club, Old GMC, Toronado club

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  1. My question would be which 455 are we talking about as other divisions other than Olds had that cubic inch and i believe that was all they had in common. I have owned 8 Oldsmobiles from the beginning of the 455 in 1968 to the end in 1976, it is a engine that can be punished, I own a stock W-34 that at the factory pumped 400 horse, near 500# torque with 10.25 compression ratio, I also had a friend that had a GMC motorhome with high miles, punishment yes. Our local lake in the eighties had many jet boats powered by , you guessed it 455, still remember their roar!
  2. You are right, I should have started this thread in technical and failed to do so. I should have asked for help to move it
  3. I drove the Twelve 75 miles today and what an improvement, I would say it drove perfect except it has some 20 year old tires that has averaged 150 miles per year. I will change these out soon. I felt I could use them for the alignment as they had good even tread . Good news on the steering, I was concerned about not getting the castor to 1 degree as I wanted some return to center action, the car wants to return to center so it is not a fight after going around turns, I could live with it the way it is.other good news is after we cleaned oil pan which was not sludged up and took off the tractor oil filter add on and put it back to stock we now have 60# oil pressure at highway speeds, 40 # at slow idle hot engine. the cooling system on the car was in pretty good shape, the radiator free flows about 30 gallons in a minute, on hard pulls the car would run at 185, but since we put a reproduction coolant overflow tank and a factory replacement R-7 radiator cap which is a 4# cap with a vacuum valve to keep radiator full, also a complete tuneup, new wires, plugs, set timing, rebuilt carb and distributor now the car runs at 165 degrees on hard pulls. The reading above were taken yesterday after a 25 mile drive at 85 degree day. only time temperature goes up a little is after a hard pull if I stop and let it idle at slow speed it climbs to 180 for a few minutes. some on this forum might say that I am pushing the car to much as the speedometer is pointing to 60 mph. This car has Phil Hills 3:55 to 1 ring and pinion. I was a little concerned that it might be to high, but other than taking the car up a little faster in second gear before shifting into third it works well.
  4. I am a Buick fan also! They don’t have the cubic inches as some of the “Thumper” engines, but they are a much lighter car and even though the bigger Buicks sell for twice as much as the small ones, I would say that are 20 cents on the dollar compared to the big boy toys. I like the 318 ci four cylinder and I have owned 2 big 6 Buick 7 passenger touring model 55. One was a 1916 and it burned to the ground and the other is a 1915 that I still have. They are Buicks first 6 cylinder and it is 331 ci. I am aware that it would not qualify as a brass car, but they do have big wheels 36 x 4 1/2, long wheelbase 130” bore of 3.75 x 5”, it easily does 55 mph and I believe it will do more but why? This is the second year of the electric start and very easy to drive. i have also driven a 1913 Oldsmobile model 53 and a Hudson six 54. These are all in the mid to upper middle price range, but for sure half the price of Pierce, early Packard, Stutz and I don’t even want to mention the rare and valuable Simplex, ghosts and Nationals as they are beyond compare. Top engine is on my 1915, bottom picture is my 1916 before it burned down in my shop fire 2 years ago.
  5. That’s why you should get the car for free!
  6. With some luck I expect to have some more miles on this weekend. If I think it is safe I will be taking it on the Earl C Anthony tour down on Highway 1 to Hearst Castle the following week. I will report back here and thank you Ed and everyone for suggestions and advice. Once again I learned more about the pre war era classic’s , how overly complex they are and over built, who would have “thunk” to use needle bearings in the front suspension? Of course the most valuable lesson I never seem to learn is 💸💸💸💸💸💸💸💸 even though Ed has been trying to teach me that there is no way to avoid it!
  7. Ed, a good idea, but unfortunately my son in law had other errands to run and when he got back the Packard was already down off the rack. He did take a few pictures of a modern car on the same rack. He also put 300# in front and 350# in rear which stayed in car for the whole alignment, note front height was down 7/16” and back was down 1 1/16” from factory specs. Good news/ bad news on today’s alignment check, we solved the major issue with the bushings that were torn loose, however the shop owner was not happy with the rebound or reset of the suspension, he suggested rechecking after the newly rebuilt suspension wears in, he said he was speculating that it would get better, although he obviously has not done dozens of Packard twelves. Now that I have studied how this suspension works I believe that the tight suspension was what was responsible for giving me a different camber, castor and toe in after each test drive last week. The shop owner explained that when the car won’t go back to it’s standard riding height he has a trick to get the numbers close, he pushes the car and rolls it forward and back several times as far as he can on the rack this will relieve the pressure that could be forcing the tires against each other, then he attaches his instruments and takes the reading, basically we are pretty close to .06 positive camber, 1/8” toe in and unfortunately we ended up with .05 negative castor with 1 shim 1 degree in both sides. The question I was asked is if it is allowable to put in a extra shim as the manuals do not talk about that, the alignment guy was concerned that maybe the centering pin on the thrust brace may not allow for it and my concern is the tight distance between front tires and their to leading edge of front fender. So now I will go back over all pivot points and shock alignment to see if I can find the problem. In his opinion both sides are reacting the same. A list of things rebuilt or replaced is front shocks professionally rebuilt , lower arms, new bearings, shafts done set and shined for proper drag, king pins, bushings shined for proper drag, new center bearing, set for proper drag and all new stabilizer bushings. Car was test driven on various roads at 55 mph and it handled well and did not have any Death Wobble. Only negative is it only mildly wants to go back to center after a turn and I think we can detect the slow rebound of suspension which appears when you are driving straight and you hit a big chuckhole as it will want to drift for a couple of seconds and then as soon as it settles do it feels glued to the road
  8. Ed, Good to know, I was concerned about one wheel seems to have the wheel bolts recessed maybe a 1/8” farther in than the other three, I have a rim that served as a spare tire for my “parts car”, I will have that repainted Indian maroon and get it pinstriped, that should solve the issue. My son in law is leaving in a few minutes with our enclosed trailer and the Packard to deal with Bay Area traffic for its front end alignment. It’s going back to the shop that quickly found the problem last Thursday. I printed out the shop manual pages that you sent me as they explain about the castor shims that are tapered and how you rotate the thick side for more or less castor. I for the life of me can’t wrap my head around that as I would think just any increase would tip the bottom part of the wheel forward which would increase castor. Thank you again for your help and advice.
  9. I decided to go with metal shims for now, I picked up different types of rubber sheeting, soft plastic, hard plastic and canvas backed rubber conveyor belting, the only one that looks like it won’t distort and mush out was the hard plastic and it was not going to give at all so the only feature would be prevention of squeak in the future over metal. I have the measurements of the thickness I need and I am open to suggestions of what I should try, not a horrible amount of time to relieve a small amount of pressure to remove bolt. On another note my lug bolts have a very small head and are worn and the wheels on the car which are thick and heavy have a slight amount of wear in the countersink area, not Wollowed out, question was anyone ever traded out the small headed lug bolts for the modern replacement which is one wrench size bigger and the head has the same angle beveled as original, but there is more surface ?
  10. 💸💰💸💰💸 =. 😡😡 = 🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃
  11. 💸💰💸💰💸 = 😡😡 = 🍷🍷🍷🍷🍷
  12. Does anyone have any ideas for a rubber, synthetic, polyurethane sheet? that is about 1/4” thick that I could make a washer 1 1/16” ID and about 2 1/4” OD, I would still have to use a thin metal washer next to the bushing as it has a thin sharp shell that might be a cookie cutter on the rubber
  13. I found something interesting today that I did not notice before. The modern upper bushing replacement has slightly more exposed steel bushing on one side, granted it’s only a 1/16” longer . So as I go to install I think I will put the longer side towards the front which should help me achieve positive castor without a bunch of castor shims, not to mention it will give me a little more gap between front fender leading edge lip. Here are pictures of new bushings, I have been experimenting with different shims, still not happy with all metal, hope to find something to cushion it.
  14. nsbrassnut, thank you for taking the time to explain what you did over the years to keep it driving straight down the road, pretty much none of the front end parts interchange with anything other than the 1507-8,1607-8 and 1707-8. I have 2 comparison photos, the one in the bottom is the original bushing and even though it is beat up it longs up pretty straight. The upper picture is the completely rebuilt front end, every shaft , bearing and bushing replaced less than 100 miles ago with the destroyed encapsulated rubber/ metal bushing. I am playing with different ways of using shims, the best might be a hybrid approach by using a thin metal washer next to the sharp edge of the outer body or shell then use some sort of polyurethane chassis bushing cut to fit for cushioning. A few twelve guys said they have just filled the gap with washers, but I worry about road shock
  15. Thank you I will use that as a starting point, What Say You on camber?
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