ramair

Terry Y, 1. Not at all. I try to choose my words wisely, but sometimes after🍷all bets are off. I usually read and reread my posts so that I do not sound like a know it all, if I do I am depending on the team to call me on it. 2. Thank you 3. actually my shop burned down a little over a year ago and we are putting the finishing touches on the final plans now. The shop you see belongs to a close friend who happens to specialize on Prewar classic cars. I am lucky as I can help with the restoration, more in the capacity of research librarian and parts procurement, not to mention problem solving or is that problem maker! 4. a early Holsman, not mine 5. thank you again (blush, blush) 6. Right on 7. I like the way you think, kind of like if you want to boil a frog you turn the heat up a little at a time or else it jumps out. 8. It started out as a king pin problem and escalated from there. I will start a thread in restoration section 9. I have a 1968 Oldsmobile Toronado with the factory W-34 package, Olds called it forced air induction, after I explain it to most people they say Oh it has Ramair! 10. thank you again 11. I am sorry I can’t divulge anything about the other cars in the shop as they are not mine, only thing I can say is even Eddie would be impressed, think big brass and big cubes. 12. The bottomless pit was another Twelve, a true artist prepared the car for me to buy it, just remember you can put lipstick on a pig but it is still a pig! I will talk more about this one at a latter date 13. this question tells me a lot about you and others in this hobby. We really have a generous and helpful group of people. 14. Thank you.

I use corn head grease in some of my farm machines, I have yet to see it used in a John Deere gear box of any type. We use it in chain drive boxes with double row series 80 chain. For those not familiar the double row chain is driven by 2 sprockets close together it looks similar to a timing chain just simpler with way less parts to the chain. These drives can be used to speed up or slow down shaft speeds, also to remote power to different height levels on a big machine. I have one on a machine called a Pickett one step bean cutter / wind rower that transmits a lot of power and it gets really hot and the grease liquifies . I think it’s a great product, but in my opinion in a car you would have to pipe in heat somehow to get it to work either in steering gear or transmission. I remember reading about how people would forget to change the oil in their transmission and rear axels in areas that have sustained temperature below 0 and I believe Packard explained to its customers that they where causing a great deal of damage the first couple of miles until it could flow and lubricate

Well it did not start out that way. When I test drove it I felt it handled pretty good, 25 year old tires with 90% tread and no side wear, we were able to put it up on a rack and we had a lot of king pin wear especially on the drivers side. Once I took delivery came the tear down, that’s when we saw the decomposing rubber. We decided to take care of all , luckily I had some of the rubber in stock, however when I added up front and rear rubber for stabilizers, shocks, engine mounts it all lists for $3,000.00, we are just lucky that it is available but still it do add up

A.J, I may create a thread over in “My Restoration” like I did for my 36 GMC, even though it’s not officially a restoration. I responded to this thread not to be a “Debbie Downer”, only to caution a would be new owner that the “slippery slope is not only treacherous it is now deadly. Eddie has been cautioning us for some time now that after you buy a prewar classic car, you can spend an additional $30,000 to $50,000 to get it right, of course I thought I would be exempt as I would buy a car with no running , driving or cosmetic issues. Some would say that I am trying to scare would be collectors from undertaking a great project and I say that my fear is that someone will buy a nice car and think they can fix it and drive it for $5,000.00. Afterwards when serious issues come up and they do not have the talent, equipment or money, then we have another disassembled project car on Craigslist. Full disclosure, I have one project car that I will never complete because the slippery slope became a free fall into a bottomless pit, ultimately I put it in permanent time out for misbehavior. I now hate that car and realize that I would always think of how it betrayed me. Now you could luck out and not have hidden Gremlins and it is possible for someone to do all the work themselves as we have all seen a lot of amateur restoration work that is every bit as good as the professional shops. A.J you are probably saying, there he goes again with ”do as I say , don’t do as I do”! Hey it’s an illness we should form the CCA, Classic Cars Anonymous. When it comes down to it we are all over 21!

Recent experience has taught me that even when you buy a prewar classic that has no fatal flaws you can spend a lot of time and money not only on all the deferred maintenance but trying to find unobtainable steering, brake, suspension and tuneup parts. As some of you have heard me talk about my latest buy, a 1939 Packard twelve, a low mile original rust free car with a older paint job that has held up nice, near perfect chrome, a engine that started instantly, did not leak (by prewar standards), did not overheat, great brakes and a velvet smooth clutch. I am now approaching 500 hours along with $7,500 in parts and this is without finding any ugly surprises. Could I have spent less time and money, probably, but do I want to take the grandkids out in a 6,000 pound car at 60 mph with brakes that probably have not been apart since the Kennedy administration. The good news is that I still love the car, probably because when it came apart all major systems were not screwed up with a sabotage hack job. Knock on wood the classic car gods have been kind to me, this time! most of us followed Matt’s Lincoln twelve story which is a reminder that the “Improved Murphys Law” works like this, if there is a 50/50 chance of something going wrong, nine times out ten it will!

I would be most interested in what material people have used for anode rod? On the internet there seems to be conflicting recommendations on materials, go figure!

I like the way you think! Hopefully someone here will share some experience with its use in an antique car coolant system. Something I am curious about, when the twelve was originally built the heads and timing cover was made with 1930 technology aluminum, which most likely had impurities, add in the likelihood that from the time it was near new the proper coolant maintenance was not done and even if it was, it is doubtful that coolant chemistry took in to consideration electrolysis. So fast forward to the last 30 years or so, what has changed, I will guess that a vast percentage of the drivable twelves now only have a new aluminum timing cover as a lot of owners have switched out the heads to cast iron. Could it help to have less aluminum content in the cooling system as far as electrolysis? Perhaps I am worrying for no reason, if it took the engine approx 30 years to fail with several things going against it and I remove some of those, in theory it should last forever, right🤔 below is a picture I have of one of my old covers, unfortunately the corrosion is not visible

I have had some not so fortunate experiences with the Packard twelves in the past. So when I bought this one I reached out and talked to one of the regular contributors on this forum that restores prewar including twelves. I asked about availability as I heard that the gentleman in Washington that made them for years past away. I was told they are still being made by a capable machinist. After I bought the car the previous owner said that my new car had the new timing cover in it, so my job as the new caretaker is to keep that timing cover in good shape. For those that are not familiar with what we are taking about it is not just a simple casting it is a very complex piece that takes days to machine and very difficult and labor intensive to change with engine in car, probably $12,000 to buy and do the job , but not to worry because if it fails and you do not catch it before you start the engine you will have to completely overhaul the engine, this could be a $70,000 mistake, like they say you choose. About the Green globs, I would flush again and try a different brand of coolant, it sounds like contamination either from the Evaporust or a bad batch of coolant, either way the next step would be the same

This is great info on the Valvoline-Zerex G-05 as I have a 1915 and a 1928 Buick that both like to foam, I have made sure my water pump seals are good and have even slowed the flow with a restrictor that I made out of a washer and installed in upper hose. I keep my antifreeze solution at about 20% and it’s livable. I will try valve line and see what happens, thank you

I am unsure of Cummins small displacement engines as I only have one, but the large engines have a spin on filter that has a slow release additive. I have dozens of John Deere between 200ci up to 466 ci they recommend just using their premix💰💰coolant and depending on usage somewhere between 3 to 5 years before change. These are wet sleeve engines and the area around the liners with the automotive type coolant would pit so badly that water would eventually enter the crankcase, another area that was common to eat through is The backup plate for the water pump, of course this did not cause a total melt down like the first. Engine overhauls in wet sleeve engine up until recently were affordable. We use to do in frame overhauls on our Caterpillar D6d with the 3306 engines in one day, start at 6:00 am and be back in the field the next morning for less than $10,000. They would bring an exchange head, gasket set, liners, pistons with reconditioned rods and new bearings and a rebuilt turbo, ah the good old days. Last engine I did that needed everything including crankshaft damage was approaching a full blown Packard twelve engine job💸💸💸💸

Hi all, I read the thread on adding cutting oil with great interest and I did not want to hijack it as my question is not about the merits between cutting oil and antifreeze, my question is between the different modern antifreeze that is available has anyone seen a difference in certain properties like foaming our suppression of corrosion with dissimilar metals? I am putting the finishing touches on a 1939 Packard twelve that I bought last year. The car came to me with “green” coolant, the car did not overheat on several mountain climb test drives, however the vehicle had a lot of deferred maintenance that needed attention, one of which was the coolant overflow tank was missing. Amazing to realize that the Packard twelves were early adopters of what many of us would consider a modern accessory. In order for it to work it requires a pressure cap which Packard modestly kept at 4 pounds, the cooling system holds 10 gallons and the water pump runs at 40 gallons per minute ( yes Ed I know the Pierce runs at near 50 GPM). I put a reproduction tank back on and started thinking about what was the greatest contribution to the cooling system . The 4# cap didn’t raise the boiling point much, but maybe keeping the top of the radiator full of coolant does not allow air in the cooling system, which must help preserve the either expensive or unobtainium timing cover and aluminum heads ( mine have been replaced in the past with cast iron). So here is what has happened to me at my day job, I have a lot of farm and construction equipment and recently I have had 2 diesel engines go down needing major overhauls due to internal corrosion. All my rigs get coolant changed out every three years and I have always used the “green” stuff. Our water that I blend with is neutral PH and is fairly soft. One engine was a Cummins and the other was a John Deere, both dealerships told me to use their proprietary pre mixed coolant which ironically is the same color of yellow. The John Deere dealer told me that every time one of their tractors come in with all of its coolant in the oil pan, the remaining coolant is the old standard “green”. He also added that there are all kinds of dissimilar metals in these engines that just want to corrode.I just wanted to know if others have tried anything else and if there is any positives or negatives

I am not well educated on this particular era Oldsmobile, but I do like the car, surprised myself as I am not a fan of brown or beige and yet this car looks great

All the hard work already done! Ready for mild reconditioning and assembly ! Makes you wonder if people that advertise on Facebook have a roulette wheel that has various insane dollar amounts? I have a similar wheel that I spin after I make a purchase, it usually lands on “Bankrupt” 💸💸💸💸💸💸💸💸💸💸💸💸

Grimy has the best idea, you can look around and maybe find something close, but then you get to deal with 2 issues. 1 is adapting and the other is dealing with rust, leaks on a hundred year old tank. Best money you will spend is having a new tank fabricated

I can’t understand if it is valves or rings or head gasket shouldn’t the compression very a little bit. i would think if they are close at 60 # perhaps the cam is off one tooth?