ramair

That looks like a OEM REO switch?

I might suggest that the word “Yet” be added to your last sentence! I have 2 cars with starter. / generator’s and what was suggested to you and it appears you followed the suggestion could have caused a slow degradation of the armature, field and brushes. If you are able to get it to work properly please consider going back to 6 volts. I know that many people even on this forum have switched their vehicle to 12 volt and I would agree with them that with a conventional system with a separate starter and generator it will work fine for years, however in that system the 6 volt generator is replaced with a 12 so only the starter gets zapped once in a while with 12 volts, but if I understand what you have done is forced the generator portion of your combined unit to create 12 volts to keep your battery charged. i am afraid your Buick warranty is now void, with some luck it might clean up and work normally

Hi, I believe that Precision Power in Lansing might be able to source your Voltage Regulator as they did for me. I am sending you a PM with their contact info

I have recently have had an education on front end alignment 💸. I would say that the assumption that without shims on your front axle must mean that your castor is 0 degrees is probably not accurate. So many factors can tilt that axle like ride height, front spring sag, worn shackles on front springs ect. With that said if you are happy with the way your car handles, how the steering returns to center and do not hear or see any tire scuff then I am with you Hugh, why worry about it

Notice the name of the fire Department, I live in a town called Greenfield our fire engines were painted wheat land yellow, go figure 🤔

Walt, keeping with your theme of Fathers day and Packards, I also included Packards and grandchildren on Sunday

This is why I do not immediately post on a thread from someone new until I see if they revisit this site. Might seem socially rude not to jump in and try to help, but it burns me out to write a response to someone as to not be condescending, or being a smart ass or did I say something to witty like “you can’t fix stupid but you can dull it with a two by four”. Instead I try to be encouraging and welcoming. Those that know me understand how difficult that is for me to do and how many times I erase a whole paragraph and start over. Very disappointing to spend 30 minutes wordsmithing, checking my grammar and punctuation, removing anything that might be political or offensive to a new member of the forum. After all of that, I see that the new member never read my literary masterpiece and the only people that read it are the people that know me well enough to wonder why I write way different than I talk😇

I to want to commend you for letting us know, so many either forget to post their solution or don’t care. Not only is it thoughtful to do so, it also allows others to search for a solution quickly through old threads

Matt, I can’t believe whoever bought this car the first time had an issue with the color after he got it home, I mean most of us had to look away from the monitor so our eyes could adjust when we would check on the auction. My theory is that the buyer found a running or driving issue with the car. You and I both have experience with a uncooperative Twelve’s and if the cost of a complete paint would scare a potential buyer away from this car, just think how fast they would run with a engine that maybe has a little tap noise? Of course I could be wrong and perhaps the first BAT owner may have had a family emergency and needed to sell,

I would go with Ed on this one, besides the proverbial “Horses have already left”, on initial start up and break in when the engine was rebuilt you might have caught something . The risk verses reward of trying to bleed off already a limited supply of oil off the low pressure pump without starving the bearings , cam and timing gears, you would be guessing and praying that a little engine noise was not a self inflicted gun shot wound!

I recently suffered a loss of my shop all its tools and equipment along with a 1916 Buick big six, if only my shop would have been equipped with the fire suppression device that I have in another shed, all could have been saved

My question would be which 455 are we talking about as other divisions other than Olds had that cubic inch and i believe that was all they had in common. I have owned 8 Oldsmobiles from the beginning of the 455 in 1968 to the end in 1976, it is a engine that can be punished, I own a stock W-34 that at the factory pumped 400 horse, near 500# torque with 10.25 compression ratio, I also had a friend that had a GMC motorhome with high miles, punishment yes. Our local lake in the eighties had many jet boats powered by , you guessed it 455, still remember their roar!

You are right, I should have started this thread in technical and failed to do so. I should have asked for help to move it

I drove the Twelve 75 miles today and what an improvement, I would say it drove perfect except it has some 20 year old tires that has averaged 150 miles per year. I will change these out soon. I felt I could use them for the alignment as they had good even tread . Good news on the steering, I was concerned about not getting the castor to 1 degree as I wanted some return to center action, the car wants to return to center so it is not a fight after going around turns, I could live with it the way it is.other good news is after we cleaned oil pan which was not sludged up and took off the tractor oil filter add on and put it back to stock we now have 60# oil pressure at highway speeds, 40 # at slow idle hot engine. the cooling system on the car was in pretty good shape, the radiator free flows about 30 gallons in a minute, on hard pulls the car would run at 185, but since we put a reproduction coolant overflow tank and a factory replacement R-7 radiator cap which is a 4# cap with a vacuum valve to keep radiator full, also a complete tuneup, new wires, plugs, set timing, rebuilt carb and distributor now the car runs at 165 degrees on hard pulls. The reading above were taken yesterday after a 25 mile drive at 85 degree day. only time temperature goes up a little is after a hard pull if I stop and let it idle at slow speed it climbs to 180 for a few minutes. some on this forum might say that I am pushing the car to much as the speedometer is pointing to 60 mph. This car has Phil Hills 3:55 to 1 ring and pinion. I was a little concerned that it might be to high, but other than taking the car up a little faster in second gear before shifting into third it works well.

I am a Buick fan also! They don’t have the cubic inches as some of the “Thumper” engines, but they are a much lighter car and even though the bigger Buicks sell for twice as much as the small ones, I would say that are 20 cents on the dollar compared to the big boy toys. I like the 318 ci four cylinder and I have owned 2 big 6 Buick 7 passenger touring model 55. One was a 1916 and it burned to the ground and the other is a 1915 that I still have. They are Buicks first 6 cylinder and it is 331 ci. I am aware that it would not qualify as a brass car, but they do have big wheels 36 x 4 1/2, long wheelbase 130” bore of 3.75 x 5”, it easily does 55 mph and I believe it will do more but why? This is the second year of the electric start and very easy to drive. i have also driven a 1913 Oldsmobile model 53 and a Hudson six 54. These are all in the mid to upper middle price range, but for sure half the price of Pierce, early Packard, Stutz and I don’t even want to mention the rare and valuable Simplex, ghosts and Nationals as they are beyond compare. Top engine is on my 1915, bottom picture is my 1916 before it burned down in my shop fire 2 years ago.