Walt G

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Walt G last won the day on December 20 2018

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About Walt G

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 06/13/1949

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  • Location:
    long island, NY
  • Interests:
    pre war custom coachwork,classic cars all makes, especially 1930 Packard 7th series , pressed steel toys, Chrysler products of the 1930s/1940s, Packard,Buick & Cadillac 1925-1941, car mascots, old factory and dealership buildings, automotive history pre war

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  1. Walt G

    1936 ornament

    Joel. Great advice! I do hope you get inspired to recreate the mascot as you suggest it be done. And YES it would BE COOL indeed.
  2. Walt G

    My new 32 Buick Victoria - pictures

    The 80 series Buicks of this year are recognized as "full classics" by the Classic Car Club of America. They have an outstanding quarterly magazine and Bulletins are issued several times a year. I was active in the club for many years until recently.
  3. As far a s I can remember the Franklin company assets ( ie rights to build cars etc) were sold to a fellow/company in Ohio who had a tendency in the early 1950s to buy defunct automobile companies , the Franklin files (blueprints) Paul mentions were eventually bought by one of the founders of the Franklin club and he kept them for decades , as he got older and before his demise the files went to the Franklin club. We are all fortunate that these still exist and are available. they are indeed incredible period factual information used at the factory to build the cars. All professional engineering drawings. I had the pleasure of knowing for many years the chief draftsman for the Franklin company , Leo Gerst, who was responsible for a good quantity of their creation . In the early 1970s many of the Franklin employees still were alive and were invited to the annual Franklin club meet in August and the club bought them lunch. The stories they had to tell were amazing. I helped organize those annual luncheons with one of the former employees who kept in touch with as many of the fellows he worked with as possible. I interviewed all of them as well as corresponded with them to record their memories. I still have all that correspondence. I hope this winter to read through it all again and put it into context with recorded facts of the era and then do several stories about this.
  4. Brakes - keep in mind you are dealing with a 75+ year old car, Brooklyn - compare how your Dodge or Buick stop compared to your modern car that has disc brakes. You may need a little extra space and time to slow down compared to how fast you are going. The series ll cars used a transmission mounted brake band in connection with the driveshaft etc. Works very well , but compared to the 1928-34 Franklin 4 wheel drum brakes , the series 11 brake seems a bit less effective - and is so as far as timing to stop goes. I am not implying that the series 11 doesn't stop, they do, and do well and are a great car to drive. you just have to respect the era and ability that the car had when new. To many comparisons to newer cars. Brass era cars stopped well when compared to other brass era cars not to a 1940 era car. In the decades I owned my Franklin I had the opportunity to drive many different years and models of Franklins from 1904 to 1934. All great driving ( very very easy to steer) cars but you have to have a mindset of what you are driving and the technology available and in use at the time. Once you have the brakes done, inspection perhaps twice a year to see if they need adjustment ( think how much you use it) is fine. With the cars with hydraulic brakes just check the fluid level. All general maintenance activity.
  5. Walt G

    ALMOST New Mustang sells for $500,000.00

    John, I completely agree with you!!! The general public only sees and hears the price , so anyone who has an "old" car must be wealthy beyond description while everyone else is poor and has to work for a living, just to make ends meet ( and then spend what they earn on what may please them - new cars, extended vacations at world class resorts etc) Most of the public, unless they possibly have the opportunity to talk to someone ( and really listen to the answer) who has an older car could possibly appreciate what it takes us to get the car or cars we own to the level they are. People believe the hype promoted by the press. The thousands of hours that it took to get the vehicle to the level it is is never really commented on .
  6. When I learned to drive a standard transmission in the mid 1960s my Dad taught me, he said you can't loose or make a noise if you double clutch and learn to hesitate a bit between shifts. Once you stat and "do it" you "get the feel" and it all goes in with no problems. Do my current pre war old cars need this method all the time - NO , but the very small extra motion is a habit I am in and doesn't need to change. Besides as you age it gives you more exercise for your left leg muscles and that can't hurt either😉
  7. the one rear light is also a brake light , there are several bulbs in that light, most often one for the brake light, one for the license plate ( clear class at the bottomon of the light) and one for the light itself when you turn on the headlamps that light goes on as well. For Franklin I bleieve that 1928 was the first year that a extra light was offered at the rear so you colud have two lights - hel;ps today as moist drivers do not know about carts with one rear light. Turn signals, Franklin never had them, hand signals - if you use hand signals now be prepared to have people wave "Hi" back at you as they think you are being friendly ( SERIOUSLY) In my pre war cars if they didn't have turn signals I had them wired in, if I had a new harness for the entire car I told the harness maker to run extra wires for this before he had the cloth wrapped/woven around it. A simple turn signal switch can be mounted on the bottom edge of the dashboard or you can get a strap on lever/handle to mount on the steering column , many NOS units can still be found and bought at flea markets or on line auctions. Advance and retard of the spark was a way you started the car in that era. most of the time now that can be set up and left, but it is a simple task usually done when the car is cold and has sat for some time. It is not a big deal and the instruction book will inform you of when and how to set the hand levers. Most horns are a button at the center of the steering wheel. Re air distribution - Franklin engineers sorted this out for you, nothing to worry about and you won't fry a cylinder because it is further back in line. Have you ever really looked at the size of one of the fans on the front of a Franklin? It is mounted to the end of the crankshaft , a very effective unit. Death Valley Scotty did not ha]ve a problem with it in the desert proving that Franklin's did not over heat. One of Franklin's sales efforts had a kid sit on/straddle the hood of a Franklin and then they drove around town in the car with him there and holding a sign that said "I ain't hot".
  8. Fellowship is what it is all about. Paul and I have been friends for 40 years. He knows his stuff and is a skilled craftsman. Old cars give us the pleasure and relief from all the everyday stuff we have to put up with, have to cope with - the old cars are the "fun" thing we can always count on to give us pleasure , even when they get a bit difficult to sort out. We have great respect for stuff that has survived several world wars where they could have wound up in scrap drives for the materials that they were made from. All old cars in some way are unique and great, and of course we all have our favorites. AACA recognizes cars/vehicles 25 years old or older and thanks to them a lot of machinery is being preserved. I can appreciate post WWII era cars very very much, love them. but if it comes down to a point where you can only keep one old car then some of us "seasoned" collectors ( substitute 'old buggers' for that if you want) still think that "Running boards rule".😏 Walt G.
  9. I no longer own my 31 Franklin but do not recall any modifications - absolutely no eletronic fuel pump! Keep it the way the factory built it, they got it right the first time around! SOme Franklin owners say they use oil, well they don't actually "use" it , most often the nuts at the bottom of the push rod tubes which are external on the right side of the engine are not tight enough or perhaps looen up because they were not tight enough to start with. There are several people that specialize in working on Franklins mechanically and it may be worth the $ to have them look at your car once you buy one if thats what you decide to do. Get it sorted correctly before you start to extensively use it and you wil have decades of great motoring ( that applies to any old car not just Franklins) My perspective is from someone who has drive pre WWII era assorted makes - most;ly Franklin and Packards, over a period of 50+ years and well over 100,000 miles. Never frustrated nor disappointed because I did spend the time and/or the $ to "get it right" the first time. Think about it, it is like living in a house of the same era, until you sort out the electrical, heating, roof etc for any issues after 80+ years you can't complain about it if it doesn't work exactly the way it did when new. Other cars I have owned and really liked and if I had the space and $ to own all of them still would - 1933 Chrysler Royal 8, 1941 Packard 120 ( column shift car that after many years would need to have the shifting fork at the bottom of the steering column sorted for wear) and just to touch upon my current toys 1930 Packard std eight ( big car that is just so easy to drive and stops on a dime,) , 1940 Buick Roadmaster - very very fast car, yikes. Just from personal experience and interchange, the Buick Club people are as nice as the Franklin Club people are. Packard people are great too. My 1930 Packard is a national senior AACA car, finished by someone nearly 40 years ago and then stored in a heated garage and really not driven , I never have it judged as I am not into awards of any kind at all. The 1931 Franklin I owned is now with its new owner who not only drives it but shows it as well and it has won all kinds of CCCA and AACA awards. Pretty cars that aren't driven are just , well "Pretty" ,but for me personally , going down the road with a car full of friends , even at night is just such a wonderful experience, here is an 80 - 90 year old car functioning as it did when it was new despite perhaps a lot of neglect over the years .
  10. I just read through some of the earlier comments I hadn't had a chance to for a few days. The 1925 thru 1927 series 11 cars had a transmission brake, not four wheel brakes. Four wheel drum brakes started in 1928 series 12 cars. The series 11 is a great running and driving car but best if driven at about 40 mph, stops well but of course 4 wheel brakes stop better. I woud suggest before you buy anything , any make, any year is to see if you can find someone with a similar make , year model, and ask to go for a ride of some length. In response to the comments regarding the 1931 Derham bodied car I had, I wanted to buy it from Jack Edmunds but he sold it to a dealer from Briarcliff Manor, NY , then known as The Imperial Barn. . I bought it from them, not him. I wanted to buy it from him but he decided to sell it to them because they had the cash and it would have taken me longer to come up with that by about a week. this was all 40 + years ago so perhaps his memory was a bit foggy. Three of us restored the car - me, Paul Fitzpatrick and Bob Patchke most all of the work completed in Bob's garage at his house in West Babylon, NY. .
  11. Franklins do not have temperature gauges and I vaguely recall that they run about 70 degrees hotter then a water cooled car. I owned my 1931 series 153 for 40 years and never gave any thought to how hot it was running, didn't need to. Never ever overheated, if you read my previous posts I drove it in 80+ degree weather in August every year to the Franklin club meet from long island to just south of Syracuse ( about 300 miles) and never had any issue. Usually drove it a total of 1,000 miles that week. The 1930 - 34 cars can travel all day long at 50-55 or more all day long and get about 13 mpg.
  12. Walt G

    What's Going On in Macungie?

    There is an annual truck show there around Father's Day I believe. I have never been but have been told by relatives and a friend that have attended that is is spectacular.
  13. Walt G

    Murphy Color Samples

    Since the one Murphy color book I have is dated 4th edition 1924 I am assuming it means the 4th book i 1924 so possibly was issued in the Fall of that year copyright is 1924. the earlier 1921 book states 2nd edition 1921 but is copyrighted 1920. No mention of any spraying technique in the 1924 book only brushing, so although spray guns were available as early as the date you state I do not believe they were seriously used in the industry until 1925/26 . By 1928 just about all cars were painted with spray gun systems. The labor and time involved in brush painting varnish was tremendous , and the time frame /process mentioned in the Murphy books I have is endless. It took days to paint a car as the varnish had to dry. Lacquer of course "flashed off" and dried much faster. I am really enjoying this exchange and hope the readers of the forum are as well. Lets get the facts and information out there that is based on period accounts and material from the suppliers; there always seems to be an current "expert" who tells all and sees all but it is only an opinion on what they are guessing at as to what really happened.
  14. Walt G

    Murphy Color Samples

    Spinneyhill I can agree with you to a certain extent, your point is well taken , but it depends upon the original period item you have to view. If it is in well worn condition I agree that the colors may be faded and the paper may have contributed to this as well; but to make that a blanket statement for every pre war color sample book I can not agree. If the item is in near perfect or perfect condition with no fading to covers, spine etc and when you open it up the colors are bright and pages are crisp with little yellowing etc. then I only have to guess that the item was received, looked at when new and looked at very little since then - yes even over 90 years. I worked as Librarian for the Long Island Automotive Museum back in the 1970s for several years, Austin Clark's library of many many assorted items had conditions of all kinds from broken spines and brittle pages to the first copy of the Horseless Age magazine printed prior to 1900 and that copy had to be in a unlit room and covered by something for untold decades as it looked as bright and good as if it was printed yesterday. I have custom body souvenir salon catalogs in my collection that look like they were picked up at the salon, looked at and then put on a shelf in storage in a closet. Looks like new. Just because something is 70+ years old or older doesn't mean it can't be in remarkable condition and give a true color of what the item was when new. Sorry , I just do not believe that statement is true, at least for what I have had the opportunity to view over the past 55 years or more. The 1924 Murphy color sample book I have is about as new a copy condition wise as one could find, I have had archival conservation experience so can make a reasonable judgement on that condition wise. Not everything old is faded or not true to what colors were when new. You can't convince me of that. Mr. Higgins, the color book you have and show photos of mentions enamels for paint, so I am guessing it is possibly late 1930s or even early post WWII. the color samples and color manual ( Murphys description) I have does not mention enamels nor even lacquers but only refers to the colors as varnishes. ( all of which it explicitly states were applied via a brush) It gives step by step instructions on how to apply the varnish - to get the purple shades a layer of one of their blue colors was applied first then the purple glaze applied over that with instructions of what to thin down ( there were color varnishes and pale varnishes) and often lampblack Ground color was applied first then the color varnish then the colored glaze or clear glaze. To much information to really try to retype or even scan and post on this site. But it seems the purple was a three step process ( lamp black ground, color varnish, glaze varnish, with everything thinned down to let it flow). Keep in mind what is being discussed here is looking at color varnish samples that in this current day will be duplicated in lacquer ( nitrocellulose or acrylic or?) to restore and spray on not brush on as the cars were painted prior to the invention of reliable and stable air compressors with a constant feed of air pressure to power the spray gun. The sample colors measure 1/2 inch tall by 2 1/2 inches wide and are varnish, not lacquer, so possibly would not fade or be affected as much as a lacquer sample would be as described by Spinneyhill? Hope all of this didn't go on to long for all of you , I tried to condense and somewhat simplify what the books I have state. Walt
  15. Walt G

    Murphy Color Samples

    Some great comments here , I agree with John that the paint formulas that may be with the colors on the color charts/samples will not be compatible with modern systems, interpretations etc. I taught art for over 35 years and have my masters degree in art as well. I am very sensitive to what colors old cars ( ie pre war mostly) are painted, - old cars with modern colors - . I can understand the frustration car owners have who want to return their cars to the exact color of what it was when new. Period colors give the car a period look. I looked in my library/archives and found two hard cover books issued by the Murphy Varnish Company "manufacturers of Railway, Motor car and Coach varnishes and colors" they were located in Newark, NJ and Chicago ,Ill. and were associated with the Dougall Varnish Co. Ltd of Montreal, Canada. Because the books are hard cover the pages with the sample colors on them remain as they were when printed, were not exposed to light of any source for any length of time like separate color chips or color chip pages may have been. I believe the colors to be about as accurate as you will find. Note that it is a VARNISH company - this is before lacquer was invented/popular to use. the varnish was brush painted on the body then sanded and rubbed out. It took quite some time to have a car painted between the coats of varnish drying. Fenders were usually black and those were most often dipped in vats to get them painted if it was a production car with larger quantities being ordered. One book says 2nd edition 1921 the other is 4th edition 1924. One book is 81 pages the other 85 pages. In the 1924 book page 53 lists Murphy Purples and shows Heliotrope. The 1921 book says that Purple was created by adding a Purple tint to a Blue base and explains how to do this, again it was all brushed on. No Purple colors are shown in this 1921 book. As mentioned here, fluorescent lights will affect the way a color looks - I had this issue when I was taking oil painting class when in college decades ago, I did the painting in natural light at home, took it to class and under the fluorescent lights the colors changed dramatically. Trying to locate an original Murphy ( or any other makers) color book will be a very difficult task. The pages can not be removed and if you do have one will the fellow mixing the paint treat the book with respect ? not to get it splattered or damaged with his paint infested fingers? Perhaps scanning a page is not the greatest way to go, but if you do get someone who will be willing to do this with their copy tell them it is worth the $ cost to go to the best art scanner possible. We are talking about a 95 year old color book here. Someplace I do have other similar color books ,but they were not with the two I mentioned and used as reference. That would require lots of time to search to locate them and right now I am in the middle of 3 or 4 research projects and need to write stories from the information and images I have found so any further time spent devoted looking for color information can not immediately happen. Hope what I have mentioned here puts a better picture into what the colors for motor cars were in the 1920s. WG