Steves Buick

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About Steves Buick

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  • Birthday 07/27/1955

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    Whidbey Island
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  1. Do you need a pix of the visor hardware? I have a 32 model 90, happy to show you the visor hardware if thats what you're looking for.
  2. Looks like 16-120, or 13-108, I need to get a a master parts list, thats a great resource, Thank you.. Steve
  3. Well the other day I pulled spark plugs and saw they were heavily fouled, I know the Marvel on my 1932 96s runs rich, I've had it apart more than once. This time with surgical precision I went through it as my engine has has a slight cough at idle then sometimes a slight back fire under load, normally corrected by slightly pulling choke. I replaced my points with petronics, works well so far, put it all back together and no change, still rich and still coughing under load. Mechanical advance seems to work via timing light, adjusted the valves, its timed right at 10 degrees BTDC. Wires checked good. compression is all in mid 80's. Pulls 18.5 inches of steady vacume at idle. I didnt see anything jump off my heathkit scope. So still scratching for a solution, But the question is on my carb next to the bottom of the economizer plunger passage to the intermediate and high speed jets there is a needle valve that has no seat in an intersecting passage. The marvel overhaul manual mentions some carbs had a a check valve some where at the end of the passage??? Here's a photo, does any body know what its function is? Sorry to bring up another Marvel string, I've read all of them on the forum and didn't see this before.. Thanks, Steve
  4. Which overdrive unit did you install? I'm looking at the Mitchel , any thoughts? many thanks.
  5. I used 6volt led on my tail lights and turn signals with good success. As for your choice of adding new turn signals from Amazon, I would just ask if you have thought of looking for original parking lights that mount on the fender. I have one from a 1930 and have seen others on ebay. If interested I'll send a pix. I concur with Daves 1940 56s comments, Mine is a 32 96s. Cheers, Steve
  6. I had my tank boiled out and stripped in a turco tank, small patch and sealed professionally for $250.00, While the tanks out think about if youre going to use a different sending unit such as a capacitance type, might need to make a new hole or modify the orig. Vans metal smith machine will make you a stainless baffled tank for $1200.00 here in Seattle. Whats in your wallet? Friends here have used a por 15 type tank sealer with good results but it all depends on your tanks condition.. remember you're driving a wooden framed car, !!! Steve
  7. I'm interested if you can get it running!! nice car, good luck. Steve
  8. Looks great Bob, I'm looking fwd to more pictures, I'm shimming my doors tomorrow and dreading it as well. Steve
  9. I see your logic, my understanding is that the octane in the fuel in the early 30's was was somewhere around 35, the fuel was also fairly unrefined thus the term heavy gas or heavy fuel was comonly used. The compression ratio's of early thirties automobiles was very low as well, my 344 cu in straight eight is 4.75 to 1 producing a whopping 96 hp or 104 hp using a thiner high compression head gasket. So I believe the heat riser helped atomise the fuel for better distrubution as it was being drawn from below the intake manifold. My old tractors with an updraft sometimes need a propane torch to heat the intake manifold to start it in cold wx. So in summary low compression engines combined with low oct fuel with an updraft carb in cold weather need heat to better atomise the the fuel for smoother running until the engine warms up. Todays 87 octane fuel seems to work fine in the Buick with the riser blocked off, my riser tubes were rotten thus I had exhaust air mixing with post carburated intake air at the riser, resulting in a lean mixture requiring the use of the choke to get to run ok but not great. Now if we could only increase the compression ratio, we could make more power!! Steve
  10. Welcome Dan, nice car, its great to see another like mine out there, most have been repainted in other than original colors, and Matt just get it on the Road and drive it while you go through it, most people See it wont believe its a wooden undeerbody frame..Matt and Dan if you need any assistance or when you get stuck, after looking at the forums just pm me.. Ive been down that road of rebuilding every system except the generator ( thats next ).. A few guys to follow are Bob Shaw, Bob Engle and Endinmass Sp?? There is a wealth of info and wisdom by these guys and others on this forum.. I do have a few parts but not many, I was going to put together a call or email list of fellow 96's owners, its a short list!! Interested? Steve cell 360-320-5778
  11. Thx, the original colors were St Regents green and St Regents green dark. I can send a chip if needed. My interior was also green mohair, I only had one door panel, if you search 32 buick on you tube you will see Les Anderson's car, that's the original color. I might have a sample left, I gave my door panel to Les for a patch repair. I went with tan mohair for a replacement. Looks good and was the popular choice by the gang. The forum is full of guys with great expertise, I used this forum allot.
  12. Here's a motivation photo for you, I love my 96s. Hope you enjoy yours as well. What's your body number?
  13. Great looking project, a bit of work I'd say but when its finished its really a rare car not many people have seen. Your car is the 8th 96s that I know of. Are you going to keep it stock? Cheers, Steve