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Steves Buick

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About Steves Buick

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  • Birthday 07/27/1955

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  1. Here are the pages from the spec and adjustments book. I fabbed up a crank shaft spinner for a 1/2 " breaker bar. Pull the plugs when setting points and always keep rotation same direction, ie. don't back up if you pass your mark. That removes the lash. Also can use a vom and timing light to gain accuracy. Runs well with points, but I think better w electronics.
  2. Just install a petronix module, flame thrower coil and suppression wires from the brillman company, works great and no time trying to get the points perfect. But when/if the module fails you will be dead in the water. Points can be nursed and will give a warning prior to failure allowing you to find a good spot to pull over. Just my 2 cents.
  3. I agree with Bob, my 32 had a backing plate, bolts secure it.
  4. I've found this John deere filter fits the after market canister better than anything else.
  5. They come out pretty easily, once you chissle a grove being careful to not damage the heat riser casting. I pressed some new tubing that I sourced from a muffler shop. Works great.
  6. Dont even mess with the dual points, just install the petronix module and be done with it.. mine runs great. No need to change distributers, they make one for the four lobe cam. But be sure to check your fly weights and springs before you press the rotor on the shaft. The 32 has mechanical advance dual points, the 8 lobber has vac advance I believe as in 33,34 and newer.
  7. Hi Stamm, Great advice given so far, have you taken off the float bowl cover to see exactly where the fuel level is? is your float arm straight, have you examined the rubber on your metering pin? is your float binding against the bowl wall? does it run with the float cover off? sometimes the cover may bind the float arm if its set too high. have you checked the fuel intake screen? glass bead it if you havent done so. If it ran fine and the only thats changed is a different float, then dont mess with ignition timing, have you checked your fuel source, electric/mechanical pump output? wi
  8. Do you need a pix of the visor hardware? I have a 32 model 90, happy to show you the visor hardware if thats what you're looking for.
  9. Looks like 16-120, or 13-108, I need to get a a master parts list, thats a great resource, Thank you.. Steve
  10. Well the other day I pulled spark plugs and saw they were heavily fouled, I know the Marvel on my 1932 96s runs rich, I've had it apart more than once. This time with surgical precision I went through it as my engine has has a slight cough at idle then sometimes a slight back fire under load, normally corrected by slightly pulling choke. I replaced my points with petronics, works well so far, put it all back together and no change, still rich and still coughing under load. Mechanical advance seems to work via timing light, adjusted the valves, its timed right at 10 degrees BTDC. Wires check
  11. Which overdrive unit did you install? I'm looking at the Mitchel , any thoughts? many thanks.
  12. I used 6volt led on my tail lights and turn signals with good success. As for your choice of adding new turn signals from Amazon, I would just ask if you have thought of looking for original parking lights that mount on the fender. I have one from a 1930 and have seen others on ebay. If interested I'll send a pix. I concur with Daves 1940 56s comments, Mine is a 32 96s. Cheers, Steve
  13. I had my tank boiled out and stripped in a turco tank, small patch and sealed professionally for $250.00, While the tanks out think about if youre going to use a different sending unit such as a capacitance type, might need to make a new hole or modify the orig. Vans metal smith machine will make you a stainless baffled tank for $1200.00 here in Seattle. Whats in your wallet? Friends here have used a por 15 type tank sealer with good results but it all depends on your tanks condition.. remember you're driving a wooden framed car, !!! Steve
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