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Steves Buick

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Everything posted by Steves Buick

  1. Make sure you have the proper size cables, run your negative battery cable directly to the starter. I don't a real need for a 8 volt battery if everything works. I use a 6 volt optima and it's fine.
  2. Be prepared for the adjuster to total your car or give you an estimate that your body shop will not be able to fix your car for. Third party estimators are a sham job. Be tough and dig in, or you'll come out with the short end of the stick. Hate to saw it, but may consider an attorney.
  3. ED, I was experimenting with petronix, looking for a hotter spark thats it. It ran slightly better and allot of guys have used it for years with out issue despite the obvious drawbacks of electronics. I hope to meet you at the next National meet in Lisle Ill. I'll bring my 32 Buick, always appreciate your contributions to the forum. Tesla for me or anyone on this forum... highly unlikely!!
  4. Thanks Straight 8 Dave, I totally rebuilt my heat riser assembly then blocked it off as recommended on this forum. Of course I rebuilt the marvelous Marvel to spec. I dialed in the carb, and it ran fine, except for the slight richness in the center 4 cylinders. That's when I thought a hotter spark and maybe hotter plugs in those center 4 cylinders, enter the petronix and the 45000v flame thrower coil. Runs great better than new almost.. I'm thinking of going back to unplugging the heat riser as I recently pulled plugs on an untouched 96s running on ethanol free fuel. All 8 plugs had an even burn pattern, my cylinder temps are all even and fuel air mixture seems correct, I increased the spark plug gap .05 and cant tell the difference. when I get the perfect combo I'll post it. Nothing wrong with petronix, its not the heat that causes failure it the EMI. Amazon sells a remote temp sensing 4 channel unit for $35.00 if you want to see what temps are, my engine runs cool @ 130 F. So I'm thinking you're correct about leaving the heat riser operationally stock, but first I'll try balance cylinder burn with a hotter plug. This engine runs as good as any, I prefer 100% stock but if I can improve ignition and fuel delivery why not. Just striving for the best performance of an old engine, the Buick engineers deserve allot of credit.
  5. Agreed with all post, Edinmas pretty much nailed it as it was running fine before I changed coils. My center inboard 4 cylinders run a bit rich, so I was experimenting with hotter spark plugs in those 4 cylinders, outer cylinders are fine. So thats why I went to the hot coil. I'll go back to points if I have another problem. Thanks for the comments. Other note of interest, a brass era friend showed me a neat trick, he put a small piece zinc on a welding rod and hung it in his radiator. I tried it and was impressed how well it worked after a week.
  6. Hi all, just a heads up, I had installed the Petronix electronic ignition module in my 1932 96s and it ran great until I installed the .6 ohm 45000 volt flame thrower coil. What happened was that the module fried itself by Electro magnetic interference due to my mistake of leaving the solid core wires on the car. Like I said it ran fine for 200+ miles with a 1.5 ohm 6 volt coil, there is a thing called the corona effect of EMI around the solid core wires. The new coil apparently exemplified this to the point of failure. Petronix people were great and pointed out that on the instructions they state suppression wires are required, they also gave me a great deal on the second module. My mistake just thought I'd pass that along. I would recommend carrying a spare module or the old points in case of failure.
  7. Here are the pages from the spec and adjustments book. I fabbed up a crank shaft spinner for a 1/2 " breaker bar. Pull the plugs when setting points and always keep rotation same direction, ie. don't back up if you pass your mark. That removes the lash. Also can use a vom and timing light to gain accuracy. Runs well with points, but I think better w electronics.
  8. Just install a petronix module, flame thrower coil and suppression wires from the brillman company, works great and no time trying to get the points perfect. But when/if the module fails you will be dead in the water. Points can be nursed and will give a warning prior to failure allowing you to find a good spot to pull over. Just my 2 cents.
  9. I agree with Bob, my 32 had a backing plate, bolts secure it.
  10. I've found this John deere filter fits the after market canister better than anything else.
  11. They come out pretty easily, once you chissle a grove being careful to not damage the heat riser casting. I pressed some new tubing that I sourced from a muffler shop. Works great.
  12. Dont even mess with the dual points, just install the petronix module and be done with it.. mine runs great. No need to change distributers, they make one for the four lobe cam. But be sure to check your fly weights and springs before you press the rotor on the shaft. The 32 has mechanical advance dual points, the 8 lobber has vac advance I believe as in 33,34 and newer.
  13. Hi Stamm, Great advice given so far, have you taken off the float bowl cover to see exactly where the fuel level is? is your float arm straight, have you examined the rubber on your metering pin? is your float binding against the bowl wall? does it run with the float cover off? sometimes the cover may bind the float arm if its set too high. have you checked the fuel intake screen? glass bead it if you havent done so. If it ran fine and the only thats changed is a different float, then dont mess with ignition timing, have you checked your fuel source, electric/mechanical pump output? will it run with choke pulled? I scribed a line like Bob recommended and was very accurate to spec factory setting on my series 90/ fuel level and float level are 2 different things. As for ignition, I dumped the points and installed the petronix electronic, works great. I have broken the code on how to make a marvel run as originally installed, took awhile!!! PM me if I can be of more help. S
  14. Do you need a pix of the visor hardware? I have a 32 model 90, happy to show you the visor hardware if thats what you're looking for.
  15. Looks like 16-120, or 13-108, I need to get a a master parts list, thats a great resource, Thank you.. Steve
  16. Well the other day I pulled spark plugs and saw they were heavily fouled, I know the Marvel on my 1932 96s runs rich, I've had it apart more than once. This time with surgical precision I went through it as my engine has has a slight cough at idle then sometimes a slight back fire under load, normally corrected by slightly pulling choke. I replaced my points with petronics, works well so far, put it all back together and no change, still rich and still coughing under load. Mechanical advance seems to work via timing light, adjusted the valves, its timed right at 10 degrees BTDC. Wires checked good. compression is all in mid 80's. Pulls 18.5 inches of steady vacume at idle. I didnt see anything jump off my heathkit scope. So still scratching for a solution, But the question is on my carb next to the bottom of the economizer plunger passage to the intermediate and high speed jets there is a needle valve that has no seat in an intersecting passage. The marvel overhaul manual mentions some carbs had a a check valve some where at the end of the passage??? Here's a photo, does any body know what its function is? Sorry to bring up another Marvel string, I've read all of them on the forum and didn't see this before.. Thanks, Steve
  17. Which overdrive unit did you install? I'm looking at the Mitchel , any thoughts? many thanks.
  18. I used 6volt led on my tail lights and turn signals with good success. As for your choice of adding new turn signals from Amazon, I would just ask if you have thought of looking for original parking lights that mount on the fender. I have one from a 1930 and have seen others on ebay. If interested I'll send a pix. I concur with Daves 1940 56s comments, Mine is a 32 96s. Cheers, Steve
  19. I had my tank boiled out and stripped in a turco tank, small patch and sealed professionally for $250.00, While the tanks out think about if youre going to use a different sending unit such as a capacitance type, might need to make a new hole or modify the orig. Vans metal smith machine will make you a stainless baffled tank for $1200.00 here in Seattle. Whats in your wallet? Friends here have used a por 15 type tank sealer with good results but it all depends on your tanks condition.. remember you're driving a wooden framed car, !!! Steve
  20. Looks great Bob, I'm looking fwd to more pictures, I'm shimming my doors tomorrow and dreading it as well. Steve
  21. I see your logic, my understanding is that the octane in the fuel in the early 30's was was somewhere around 35, the fuel was also fairly unrefined thus the term heavy gas or heavy fuel was comonly used. The compression ratio's of early thirties automobiles was very low as well, my 344 cu in straight eight is 4.75 to 1 producing a whopping 96 hp or 104 hp using a thiner high compression head gasket. So I believe the heat riser helped atomise the fuel for better distrubution as it was being drawn from below the intake manifold. My old tractors with an updraft sometimes need a propane torch to heat the intake manifold to start it in cold wx. So in summary low compression engines combined with low oct fuel with an updraft carb in cold weather need heat to better atomise the the fuel for smoother running until the engine warms up. Todays 87 octane fuel seems to work fine in the Buick with the riser blocked off, my riser tubes were rotten thus I had exhaust air mixing with post carburated intake air at the riser, resulting in a lean mixture requiring the use of the choke to get to run ok but not great. Now if we could only increase the compression ratio, we could make more power!! Steve
  22. Welcome Dan, nice car, its great to see another like mine out there, most have been repainted in other than original colors, and Matt just get it on the Road and drive it while you go through it, most people See it wont believe its a wooden undeerbody frame..Matt and Dan if you need any assistance or when you get stuck, after looking at the forums just pm me.. Ive been down that road of rebuilding every system except the generator ( thats next ).. A few guys to follow are Bob Shaw, Bob Engle and Endinmass Sp?? There is a wealth of info and wisdom by these guys and others on this forum.. I do have a few parts but not many, I was going to put together a call or email list of fellow 96's owners, its a short list!! Interested? Steve cell 360-320-5778
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