Rick George

Best place to buy replacement pedal pads for clutch and brake pedals?

I believe my wizard is die-cast. I also believe it is missing components. Here's the best pic I could find.

One of the black trumpets was broken into two pieces and jb welded back together. I would love to find chrome trumpets for this car.

My cowl has an indent which I believe confirms it is a 57. Yes? I agree the 2nd tag might have been removed for the heater installation. There's definitely a rivet hole visible. I'm not sure I've seen the wizard valve during my rebuild. Where would I find it? Colors are brown and tan. Likely a repaint. I paid a repair shop to work on the clutch plate. They got it drivable. It was misbehaving when warm, lots of sluggishness and backfiring. A friend recommended a new coil. That seemed to do the trick. It starts, runs and stops well now. It had an electric fuel pump that I plan to replace because it is so loud. I'm looking for recommendations if you have any. I'm considering an Airtex e8011. My last concern at this time is that it's consuming water. It was down about 1/2 gallon after 40 miles. My oil is clean so it's not getting into the oil. No puddles or drips at the radiator. I see a little green water under the water pump. Do you know anybody who rebuilds these? Thanks to everyone for their input. This is fun and I love the car.

I have 2 tail lights and chrome headlight stanchions. But my horn trumpets are black.

Per your request.

I will provide pics when I get home again. Here's a pic of my firewall.

I was under the impression that my car was a series 50 model 57S. I've included a photo of my firewall tag. It doesn't mention model number. A friend shared their firewall tag which clearly says what it is. How can I confirm what I have?

Unlikely but possible. We're all human. How can I tell if the Disc is facing the correct way?

Good evening. As some of you know, I removed my 32 57s engine to have a connecting rod repaired. By some miracle I was able to put it back together and get it running. Hooray for me. However, now the clutch doesn't disengage. I've tried adjusting the clutch pedal bolt, but I can't get it working. I'm 99 percent certain that the clutch plate was installed correctly. I labeled it when I removed it. Still, I could have made a mistake. How can I tell if the clutch plate is installed correctly? Also, should I be looking at any other possible solutions to my problem? Thanks in advance.

Some have said that excess oil in the rear axle could have a negative impact on the brakes. Can anybody elaborate on that? What was the damage? What was done to correct it?

As the new owner of this car, I want to replace the oil in the rear differential. The 1932 Reference Book says it takes 3 pints (1.5 quarts) of oil. That doesn't seem like enough. When I removed the plug to inspect the current level of the oil, it started to pour out of the hole. I can't imagine how they got oil into the read differential housing above the fill hole, but they did. So I put the plug back in while I'm investigating. The cover on the differential housing is circular. I wondered if perhaps it was installed in the wrong orientation. The fill hole is currently at the 6 o'clock position and the fluid level would be below (or just level with) the bottom of the axle housing. I'll include pictures so you can see what I mean. I know I have to open the housing to drain the old oil. Can someone confirm the proper orientation of the cover so I can put it back properly? Also, can someone confirm the quantity of oil it should accept? I bought 2 quarts, but I can buy more if needed. The diagram from the book makes it look like the fill hole is off to the side. Hard to tell. Thanks in advance for your advice.

Following

I need a source for a replacement spring for the rocker arm assembly on my 32 Buick 57S. Its 1 inch in diameter and 1.25 inches long. update: i actually just found a spring that will work. Thanks.

Good evening. I've got my main bearings and connecting rods all installed and torqued. I see there are holes in the connecting rod bolts. I assume this is for a cotter pin. I just looked back at my "before" pictures and there were no cotter pins on these bolts when I disassembled the engine. Are they needed if the nuts are torqued properly? Is it recommended that I include cotter pins? Is there anything special about the cotter pins that I should be aware of? Size? Material? Thanks in advance. Rick 1932 Buick 57S