Morgan Wright

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Morgan Wright last won the day on December 28 2015

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About Morgan Wright

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    1k+ Senior Member
  • Birthday 11/05/1955

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    Providence, Saratoga County, NY
  • Interests:
    Old Buicks

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  1. When I rebuilt my clutch, Hubert_25-25 (and I am forever in his debt for it) sent me a nice 37808 in superb condition, and now my car runs like Usain Bolt with a fresh lube job.
  2. Part 36153, the driven disc for all these clutches, started with the model 49, which came out in Jan of 1917 as the E-49. All 5 of the driven discs were part 36153. All the other 1917 Buicks were carry-over D models from 1916, and used the old cone clutch. The 49 had the new clutch and the new, much more powerful 242 engine. In Aug of 1917, the other E models were announced with the new clutch, and with the new 49 engine, and were called 1918 models, as were all successive E-49's. What happened was the early cars with the new clutch and the new powerful 49 engine were coming in for repair with the clutch all busted, the front-most driven plate had warped tabs. The other 4 driven discs were fine, only the front one was messed up. So Buick engineers strengthened the front driven plate as part number 37808, and released it for the rest of production year 1918 and following years, with 36153 for the back 4 driven discs, and 37808 for the front one. My car, being one of the early 49's with this clutch, when I opened it up, I found all 5 of the driven discs were part 36153, and the front disc warped, and the car was put in a barn for 90 years. When I took the clutch apart, the front driven disc looked like this (this is an actual pic I took of my driven disc). Some of the tabs were actually broken. The other 4 driven discs were fine, only the front one had warped tabs: .
  3. It's a huge job but if all you want to do is inspect it, there is an inspection plate on the tranny than comes off, just 2 big screws, and you can see the whole clutch. You can inspect for mouse nests or rust, and check the thickness of the plates. That's also how you grease the throwout mechanism, there are 2 grease zerks in there (on my car, two grease cups, my car was built before zerks)
  4. I made of video of rebuilding the clutch on mine. I must have done it right, it works perfectly now. .
  5. Yeah, the extra weight and axle load in the front increases friction on the tires, and prevents the tires from skidding, so the front brakes do more work.
  6. During the past month only? Has it been cold the past month in Minneapolis? My car starts without the choke in the summer. Never touch the choke. In the past month I have had to use the choke to get it started. It was 30 the other morning, no start at all, until I used the choke, then it started right up.
  7. Check for leaky intake manifold. If the compression is good and gas isn't getting into the cylinders, maybe air is leaking in at the intake manifold.
  8. When you check compression, you aren't really checking compression. You are checking the rings and valves, and you are checking them to check the intake vacuum for each cylinder. Fuel won't get into the cylinder without vacuum. Your spark plugs are dry which means fuel is not being sucked into the cylinders during the intake (vacuum) stroke. But if the compression is good that means the rings and valves are good, and if the rings and valves are good, the intake vacuum is good. So check the compression.
  9. Two of the tires were Miller Tire Co, which went out of business in the 1920's, and the other 2 were Cooper Tires. I still have them but they are pretty messed up.
  10. After all that trouble I found the other original one. Good news, and now I have a spare. .
  11. I guess synthetic rubber doesn't get hard like natural rubber does.