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lump last won the day on January 5 2017

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About lump

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 11/26/1953

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  • Location:
    Xenia, Ohio
  • Interests:
    Old cars, hot rods, race cars, fishing, hunting, billiards, grandkids, collecting many things, flea market shopping, etc


  • Biography
    I own a 1923 Hupmobile touring, attended AACA events as early as 1956, when I was 3. Also own 1970 LS-6 Chevelle

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  1. I see the cowl sides, which indicate 1930 or 31, and the radiator shell which is obviously only 1930. But unless my old eyes deceive me, I don't THINK I see the two-piece splash aprons which I thought were indicators of 1930 vehicles. I didn't see any pics of the instrument cluster, which is different in the 31 model year (I believe). Are there other indicators which verify this as a 1930 model, and not a '31? I'm no expert, but I'm wondering if this one is put together from parts. Still is a gorgeous old car/truck. Wish it were mine.
  2. Welcome, Rusty! Love those 39 Buicks, for sure.
  3. I have driven my 1923 Hupmobile Model R 4 cyl touring all over the place, including interstates. It is happy at 55 mph, but anything faster than that is too much. Yet, as I've grown older, I am more cautious. Those 2-wheel mechanical brakes will lock up on demand, but you have only two tiny rubber footprints in those rear tires. I've been riding around in this car since my parents bought it in 1962, and in their previous antique cars before it. I distinctly recall riding from our home in Dayton, Ohio to Cleveland and back in one of the antique cars, but now I cannot recall which one. But it is true that traffic is much more congesting now than it was then.
  4. I have an old manual for my late '23 Hupp Model R. The manual lists more quarts of oil than this engine will hold, without spilling out everywhere. It has a float-gauge instead of a dip stick, and I eventually learned to just fill in new oil until the gauge reads full. But this requires screwing the gauge assembly in and out repeatedly. How much oil is actually correct for my 4 cylinder Model R, and has anyone else encountered this conundrum?
  5. KrazyKat, I have 1923 Model R touring with wood spoke wheels. I'll try to remove a bolt and wedge and photo them for you. Unfortunately, I do not have any spares even for my own car. Let me know if you need other photos, etc, as I am about to mount new tires on my car. -----Jim
  6. My 1923 Hupmobile 4 cylinder used Westinghouse ignition system and components. Decades ago my dad began experimenting with ignition points intended for other vehicles, until he found something which worked. I recall him telling me long ago that he used points out of a 1961 Pontiac 4 cylinder. But after he was gone and the car was suddenly mine, I discovered that he must have replaced the points again...this time with points for an aftermarket Mallory dual-point racing distributor. The points from one side of that distributor fit perfectly. You should be able to test fit lots of different point sets until you find some that will least parts of them. Most condensers will work, and like Rusty says...if the points burn too quickly, try a different condenser. But in my experience with my Hupp, the first condenser I tried has worked fine for years (keep in mind that the car is not driven thousands of miles each year). Good luck!
  7. Go to the Garage Journal forum, and look for their forum on vintage floor jacks. LOTS of info there.
  8. lump

    Brooklyn 1930

    The sedan looks a bit like a Hupmobile Model S, 1929 or 30.
  9. I recall when I was a street racing teenager in the early 1970's. I thought those were the single-most unattractive cars of that era. But today they are unique, because very few survived, and because the look so "different" from everything else. A red colored two door hardtop would be a pretty special car, for sure. Mechanical parts should be easy to find. Body and upholstery parts...not so much. Very little reproduction stuff exists. Interestingly, for these very reasons, cars like this can sometimes bring surprisingly high numbers at the big name auto auctions...especially when they are desirable colors and 2 doors hardtops like this one. Good luck with it!
  10. lump

    1964 Ford Galaxie

    Good sheet metal has been gone for decades for the big Fords of the 1950's and 60's. Fortunately, a company near Atlanta, Georgia is currently stamping out reproduction body panels for 1963 and 1964 Galaxie 2 door hardtop models. I visited their shop several months ago, and saw sample new parts myself. I think the first thing they made was rear bumpers for 1964 Galaxie cars, because those bumpers rusted out badly when new. You can find them online. Their name is Auto Metal Direct (AMD). Good luck with your project. Below is a photo of a prototype quarter panel for 63 Galaxie. Those things are HUGE.
  11. Most exhaust systems definitely rust from the inside out, as Bloo said. Just because a muffler doesn't show much rust on the outside, doesn't mean it isn't badly rusted inside. One day they may just fall off due to corrosion...yet even in that state they often look really nice on the outside...except a few small places where it rusted right through. By the way, you can paint over galvanize with zinc chromate primer, then your favorite top coat. But it will stink to high heaven until all such paint is fully baked on.
  12. Ryan, I used to be a sheet metal worker in the building trades in the Dayton, Ohio area. I got out many years ago, and pursued an entirely different career field. But I still have friends in the sheet metal workers local. One of them plays on my pool team, and he overheard me griping about that rusty tank one night, and saying that, "back in the day," when I worked in a shop with all the tools and equipment, I could have made a new tank myself. He offered to do the job for me, and did an amazing job. (That's the SS tank he made in the photo in my post above). He installed baffles exactly like my factory tank, and welded in reinforcement patches where holes would be cut for fuel lines, filler neck, etc. The above photo shows the newly arrived tank before the filler neck, gas gauge fitting, and drain petcock boss had been installed. A famous old drag racer and close friend of mine in the area fabricated those components for me...all of stainless steel. Then I had it painted and installed it. My drag racing friend (Paul Frost), also spent time repairing the impossible-to-find gas gauge/fuel pickup unit for my tank. It was originally made of zinc diecast, and it broke when I tried to tighten threads on the fuel line fitting. He does amazing work. I am thrilled with the results. If you can't find anyone to assist you, I can put you in touch with Paul. He can get one made for you. NOTE: Keep in mind that my tank had only single radius compound radii. This made it much simpler for fabrication at an industrial sheet metal shop level. If your tank has compound curves, etc, that would add another layer of difficulty. Cheers!
  13. The externally-visible gas tank on my 1923 Hupmobile was having internal rust issues back when it was still my parents' car...and they passed in 1978. Of course things just got worse year after year. Twice over the early years that I first owned the car, I removed the tank, and carefully followed the instructions on two different well-known aftermarket "gas tank sealers." Eventually, both of them failed (it took a few years, but it happened nevertheless). So I took my tank off and shipped it off to that company which advertises in HEMMINGS, "Gas Tank Renu," I believe. When the tank was shipped back to me, it was badly warped and distorted, apparently from the heat of their ovens. Regardless, I just painted it and re-installed it...even though you could see the warped panels when installed. I was that desperate to be done with rust in my fuel system. Ugly as it was, it functioned ok....for about a year. Then one day the engine starting sputtering again, just like it used to do when it starved for fuel. I checked the clear inline filter, and sure enough it was full of rust specs again. I stuck a little mirror inside, and saw badly rusted areas, which must have been missed by the sealer those folks had used. Desperate, I had a brand new gas tank fabricated. It was made of stainless steel this time, and painted the correct factory black gloss with special paint designed for stainless. AT LAST, my rusty fuel system problems were over. To each his own, but IF I could easily buy a beautiful, correct-appearing reproduction gas tank for any car I was restoring, there is NO WAY I would mess around with tank sealers of any type or brand name. Even the outside of these new repro tanks are beautifully galvanized (like OEM units), and will likely last a very long time on a seldom-driven collector vehicle. (And think about this...if you are restoring a car of the 1950's through 70' do you properly restore the original factory finish on the outside of the tank? Have it hot-tank galvanized? What would that cost?) Again, to each his own. But these new reproduction gas tanks for cars of the 1950's through the 1970's are really, really nice. And WAY cheaper than restoring a rusty old one...especially if you must do so repeatedly. 🙂 Cheers!
  14. My 1923 Hupp touring has always been an exceptionally good "parade car," in that it never overheats...even in slow-moving parades where cars must follow people or animals on foot. Yet that slow pace for extended periods has always been hard on the cooling systems for many old cars. So the first thing that came to my mind in looking at these photos was the bunting and signs which seemed to cover up the entire radiator front. Wonder if that caused a few "adventures?" By the way, I concur with cars being no newer than 1923 or so...although they could have been a few years old when the parade happened. My guess would be 1925. And I think Armistice Day is a very good guess. PS: I would love to have that "Zerolene" sign on front of that one car!!
  15. Welcome, Werner! Good luck to you with your Riviera project. I know what it's like to try and restore a car from a "foreign" country. I once owned a 1933 Adler Trumpf Jr, and I depended on folks I met by mail in Germany to assist me. Special clips for MOST body moldings of that vintage are usually fairly easy to find. You might want to contact Restoration Specialties, Inc. I am not personally connected with them in any way, but I do know some of the family there. Here is their website address: