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About 1912Staver

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  1. I am thinking it looks like one tired old Mopar. $1500.00 ? It might be worth a try. $3500.00, hard pass. Good glass ? The windshield is toast.
  2. I think buyers really like the format compared to say ebay. Quite a few cars from my general area have sold on BATover the last couple of years at prices that local buyers are unable to match. Often by a significant amount. Like I said a year or two ago , collector cars are leaving my area ; generally to the U.S. but also other destinations, in substantial numbers. A perfect storm of relatively low local incomes, a very high cost of living, and a relatively low value currency. The value of the Canadian $ is getting better . But the worsening cost of living is negating any relief t
  3. BAT can be a bit picky about what cars it will list. If not running it generally needs to be a reasonably unusual or often sought after by collectors car. The Bird would probably qualify, the Eldorado might be iffy.
  4. I would vote for the Pawnee Beige, especially as it is listed as opalescent. Greg
  5. What sort of weight are the 4 x 4" 's ? I have probably seen them at swap meets but no doubt walked right by them. Rules in the class I want to run the car in specify 5 1/2 " wheels max. So in most cases a aftermarket wheel. It's a popular class so lots of the much more common 4 x 3 3/4 pattern wheels out there. The 4 x 4 " pattern is far less popular and stems from the fact that way back in the early 1960's about the only off the shelf stub axle's available to the specialist race car manufacturers { Brabham and many others} was either the very undersize Hillman Imp part or the much
  6. I expect that bronze brown was a factory color. As to why owners feel they must mess with cars from this era I have no insights. Many misguided people out there. There are some decent , original cars out there. But a bit of a hunt these days I am afraid. I am not a huge fan of early post war cars , but certain ones are pretty nice. I can almost visualise my father as a young guy getting out of the one in the first photo. Except he had a 49 Monarch { Canadian Mercury } around 1955- 59. Greg Greg
  7. I also used Vega GT wheels on an Auto - X car. But I never broke any. To be fair it was a well developed : pretty darned quick, Bug Eye Sprite so way less " ground hugging weight " than a Sunbird. They were the only cheap , reasonably wide , 4 x 4" , 13 " wheel I could scrounge at the time. The Sprite is long gone but I still have one car that uses 4 x 4" ,13 "wheels . 4 x 4" , decent quality , alloy wheels are still quite hard to find unless you buy them new. Minilight { and their many imitators } and Revolution will sell you brand new ones, but I rarely run across reasonably priced
  8. The only 5 spoke 4 stud wheels I have are the ATS's on my Auto - X car. One of the few options in the reasonably priced category for a 1970's Formula car using outboard brakes. Found on a great many Formula Super Vees of this period. You can get custom wheel in any configuration these days, but I always look for low cost solutions . Not sure why ATS didn't make a 4 spoke version , but as far as I know they did not.
  9. More of my cars have 4 stud wheels than 5 stud Padget. I generally find the number of spokes should in most cases match the number of studs. Lots of nice 4 spoke wheels out there.
  10. I always thought the Hemi style scoop looked great. Even more so if the car was a genuine example. { Hemi Dart's as well }. The raised white letter tires I can also do without. As for steel or steel / alloy mixed construction wheel you either love them or hate them. Either 1 piece alloy or 3 piece alloy for me.
  11. Cars of all makes and models have been getting buried since the beginning of when cars first got old and needed to be disposed of. 98% of buried old cars are worth exactly the same as when they were first buried; less than the cost and trouble to take them in for scrap. But that still leaves a small few that are worth excavating and either salvaging or even in a few rare cases restoring. It's even remotely possible there is a buried Duesenberg or Mercer Raceabout buried out there ...somewhere. The trick is for someone to both find it and actually know what they have found. Hunting b
  12. I would say a Apperson Jackrabbit car is fairly desirable. But a single part like a fan is a rather different proposition. It possibly only fits a small percentage / production year range, of Apperson cars . And Apperson's in general have survived in relatively low numbers. So the fan seller needs to find that potential buyer that is actually in need of his fan, probably a long shot at best. A $400.00 asking price seems quite optimistic. I run into a very similar situation with parts for my Staver Chicago. Parts do turn up now and then . And prices tend to be all over the map. Sellers so
  13. Sounds reasonable. The pins on my Staver also show relatively little wear. It's the spring shackles that were quite worn on my project, otherwise most of the suspension shows little wear. I agree about the difficulty of lubricating , unless one just liberally squirts oil on the outside of the connection. If a bushing is used oilite material would be the way to go. But steel on steel may result in annoying squeeks when driving. I doubt anyone cared in 1910. Mechanical things made all sorts of noises in operation back in the day. Greg
  14. Joe, there's something I don't understand about the bushings you have installed. I would normally expect them to be something like bronze or even sintered bronze . But it appears you have used steel . So you still have a steel on steel connection. I am assuming the pin { bolt in this case, my Staver uses a very similar set up but with a regular pin , flat washer and cotter pin rather than a bolt } will of course be steel. Am I missing something ? Greg
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