Jump to content

1912Staver

Members
  • Content Count

    2,801
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,105 Excellent

About 1912Staver

  • Rank
    HCCA Member
  • Birthday 06/30/1958

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Langley, B.C. Canada
  • Interests:
    Brass era cars, Packard trucks, Vintage racing cars, Sports cars

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. It's not the ability to build battery's that will hold electric cars back. Or the level of technology imbedded in the battery. It's the scale of relatively scarce metals { lead , lithium } and elements { rare earths } that would be needed to make everything " clean power " and make all the vehicles " zero emission " . If transportation as we know it exists in the medium future it won't be battery powered or dependent. There just isn't enough raw material for that mass of battery's. I doubt near future tech can develop a type of battery that can fill the worlds power needs. Battery's are
  2. I get the impression a lot of the motivation of vehicle manufacturers towards promoting E vehicles are for the sales opportunity. Not to do their part in saving the planet. It's the battery raw materials that will limit how widespread electric power becomes. As the push for " clean " power generation intensifies the battery material ; either lead or other higher tech battery materials , will be the sticking point. And electric vehicles will be in direct competition with power generation for battery material. A whole lot of money will be spent , but as much or perhaps even
  3. I also hope to possibly own one one day. I somehow doubt it will go for less than $30 K but you never know. That would still put it in about the $50 K Canadian zone after all the border dust settles and therefore well beyond me, But hope springs eternal. Greg
  4. Well.. you did ask for advice. John Mereness is is very involved with cars of this sort and made a number of the same points as I have , but yes probably a lot more diplomatically. My basic message is find out as much as you can about exactly how Buick built this car in the first place. And aim to replicate that engineering and execution as closely as your resources permit. Buick's ; and Fisher body's, engineering was extremely good in this era. Make the best use of it that you can. They built hundreds of thousands of body's using this method of construction. By the time your car
  5. I never really considered the street rodder's solution to wood body problems on a on a car like a 90 series Buick. I was suggesting what would be needed to return the car to factory condition. There are always work arounds to serious problems if you are willing to deviate from original techniques and specifications . If you are just looking to make it drivable than why not ? Not so sure about the defeatist part however , just outlining how to rebuild a very complicated wood structure body and have things actually fit and function. GM didn't make any part of this body w
  6. One of the big problems with sedans this far gone is the lack of original wood parts for patterns. If the doors are going to fit correctly, open , close and latch securely the new wood has to be a 99 % at least dimensional duplicate of factory. Without more or less intact original wood to work from any wood worker you hire is forced to guess on many important dimension decisions. In the end things won't fit, doors will rub on the body, doors will fly open going over bumps etc. Any wood worker skilled enough to handle a job like this also knows this is a job to steer clear of . U
  7. They are possibly meaning Mercer " Raceabouts "specifically . It has long been suggested that a number of todays raceabouts started life as other less sporting models . Same situation with Stutz Bearcats. Greg
  8. I was very surprised by a" stock footage " scene in an episode I saw a couple of months ago. It was I think City Hall or a similar building and was very old. If you paused it and had a good look there were late 1920's / early 1930's cars in the parking lot. They were quite small as it was a distance shot but a far older piece of film than the show. I guess whoever edit's the show figured that no one would notice during the 3 or 4 seconds the clip was onscreen. Greg
  9. Sorry for the confusion, I meant in addition to the General forum post. Greg
  10. If you are posting about really early cars a similar or duplicate post in the Brass Era forum way down near the bottom in addition to a General post can't hurt. Greg
  11. The other way to tell a 1916 / 17 from a 18 or later is the shape of the rear door. 1916 / 17 had a slightly shorter wheel base and the rear door has a cut away curve for the rear fender curve. 1918 and newer have the full rounded rectangle rear doors and the single exposed hinge Greg
  12. If you do go the auction route I have a suggestion. Pull out all the early stuff{ pre 1920 } and advertise it on the forum. At auction there is a good chance it will simply sell for scrap unless you are very lucky in who attends the auction. All the larger wheel rims { over 21" } have a slow but steady market . I have a good catalog for rim I.D. that I could copy for you. Mid teens up to about 1930. Highly unlikely that anyone at an auction will pay more than a few $ for a unidentified rim but one at a time to someone who needs them they are decent money makers. Early car
  13. The right hand drive cars are McLaughlin's ; or at least McLaughlin built, so lots of small trim differences from Buick. They were possibly badged as Buicks depending on the marketing arrangements in particular export markets. Nickle plated steering column is normal on a McLaughlin. And it probably has right side shift like the red NZ car above. The single , lower rear , exposed door hinge is a give away . I can't think of any other car that has this arrangement apart from 1918 - 21, 5 pas. Buicks / McLaughlin's. Greg
  14. Possibly a bit better. but you are still feeding the restriction to spring movement into the front spring U bolt. Some of the post 1915 Stutz's mount them on the outside, and no doubt others as well. If nothing else the outside mounting would prevent knocking your knuckles on them when crank starting. Greg
  15. Any idea what the L head engine furthest away in this shot is ? The one with what looks like a section of frame still attached . What sort of a price ? Greg
×
×
  • Create New...