Frank-BuickStd6

Thanks for all your comments. Larry - I would have been interested if I was in the US but don't think shipping the whole axle to the UK would economical for the parts I need.

Hi Edinmass, This is the best photo I have. On stripping I found various issues with the rear wheel on the shaft that broke like loose on the taper, bad key and keyway and poor threads in the axle nut. I thought this was the cause but very interested to hear more about clutch juddder and its effects as my car does does do this some of the time. I have only managed to drive it around 100 miles since I got it! Thanks, Andrew

Hi Hugh, Thanks for your comments, I actually put blanking plates in and also removed the oversize riser tube just leaving the shell of the riser. I ran the car and although it started and ticked over under load when driving it had no performance at all. I put it down to not having the riser tube in place to give a smooth airflow up through the riser and into the intake manifold. I reinstated the riser tube with the same blanking plates in and car ran OK again. Its on my jobs list to find some thin walled tube to replace the thick walled tube in the riser. Main priority at the moment is getting new half shafts and a pinion without chipped teeth for half shaft so I can get it back on the road! Andrew

Leif, Many thanks, will see what numbers I can find if any, and hope somebody might have some spare pinions I could buy. Andrew

Leif, Do you happen to have a parts book with pictures that lists the different part numbers as I could see if the number marked on the pinion is an original the part number? Thanks, Andrew

Hi Old26Buick, they are out of a 1927 Buick Standard 6 27-25. The only number I can see on them is as per the attached image which looks like 9863 but its not very clear? They have 18 teeth and I could measure some key dimensions for you to check against yours? Many thanks for your response as don't really want to put it back in unless I really have too. Andrew

Just removed the broken half shaft (see my previous post) and also found two chipped teeth on one of the bevel gears. Would anybody have one or know where I could get one from? Many thanks. Andrew

My newly acquired Standard 6 has just sheared the offside half shaft at the end of the splines in the diff. Just wonder if anybody has a detailed drawing as looking to get a pair made in the UK or any comments?

Peter: Many thanks for the information, great to see the after market specification sheet and an original replacement still in a box! Larry: Thanks for providing the spare parts list, very useful. I'm missing the choke return spring 24-63. I fitted the new float material and carried out the rebuilding of the carb today and the car runs very much better. Sounds as if it is running rich but will look at the plus after a good run out. It has the jet sizes in from the manual. I plan on finding some thin walled tube and fitting this in the future but at least I have the car running much better and can use it so I can get used to it. Thanks again for all the input, this is such a great resource for helping new custodians of Buick's.

Larry: Thanks for the photos most helpful. My venturi block seemed in good shape and I only filed the block to get some clearance not the vane. I hadn't thought about checking the idle jet was central in the hole, will do tomorrow. Should the jet top be flush with the top of the block? I still need to get the vane to be a better fit against the body as can still see gaps so thanks for the tip re emery paper.

Thanks for your comments and I have knocked the tube out of the riser. Will measure it and taper the ends to aid flow and re-fit while I source some thin walled tube. I found Hugh's superb carburetor rebuild notes and am steadily working my the way through them solving the issues at each stage of which there are many! Mine has an original venturi block which I have filed as the air valve was not shutting, but will look to obtain a new one in time. The new float material from Bob's has just arrived in the post so hopefully I can get the rebuild of the carburetor completed and see what difference that makes. Thanks again for all the input.

Just taken the heat riser off and the exhaust side has been blanked with a plate inserted against the flange so therefore not getting any exhaust contamination into the intake side, which some people suggested as to why the car is slow. It looks like it has a new thick walled tube up the riser. The OD is roughly 1.42" and the ID 1.17" This seems to restrict the air flow area by nearly 20% which will certainly make a difference. The bore at the throttle butterfly measures 1.43" so I guess somebody just found some tube to fit and pressed it in? Any thoughts or suggestions of what people have done? Many thanks.

Thanks for your reply and I will post in Pre War.

Just taken the riser off and the exhaust side has been blanked with a plate inserted against the flange so not getting any exhaust contamination into the intake side. It looks like it has a new thick walled tube up the riser. Should it be this thick as it reduced the bore diameter quite a bit or is this standard? Hope you can make out the photos.

I appreciate your point about stopping. Having ridden vintage and classic motorcycles all my life some of which have have simple push bike brakes, you learn to leave large gaps and develop a sixth sense of what people might do!