Hubert_25-25

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Hubert_25-25 last won the day on July 10 2019

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About Hubert_25-25

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  • Birthday 02/11/1960

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  1. When I installed the head on my 1925 Buick, I struggled with finding a cylinder head torque sequence diagram. I just found it in a 1926 Buick care and operations manual that I had shipped in from Australia. There are several versions out there that I did not agree with, and the later model straight 8 Buick is a very odd bolt tightening pattern IMO. Because of the unusual bolt spacing pattern on these 6 cylinder Buicks, they "paired" some of the studs in this diagram. The GM Export book also contains the patterns for Oldsmobile and Oakland. Hugh
  2. Rod, I replaced the 17 Head bolts with Studs. New studs are 5 ½” long. Old studs (and there were 2) were 5 ¼” long with ¾” of threads on the end. Common now is 1” of threads each end, so ¼” was added to the overall length to keep the studs flush with the top of the cylinder head nuts when assembled. Studs were ARP brand. Teflon thread sealant (for cylinder heads) was used. Part #ARP 070-100-9904 Using a toothpick I was able to wipe the inside of the threads in the block, and using a toothbrush I was able to get into the thread grooves on the stud. If you stay with bolts, consider Grade 5 minimum or Grade 8. I used Studs so that I would not disturb the thread sealant if I retorqued the cylinder head at a later date. Hugh
  3. Hi Kyle, We are glad that you found that can of oil and were able to lubricate the hinge on your laptop. We do miss communicating with you and hope you are well. The water pump shaft that you made for me is still working great. Hugh
  4. Rod, It sounds to me as if it is either your vacuum tank operation is not working properly, or more likely clogging of the screen on the fuel pick up line in the gas tank. The gas tank may not be clean as well. It may be that things work fine at idle. As fuel use increases with speed, then the fuel is starving getting to the vacuum tank . Then the vacuum tank runs dry. Then fuel usage is low again as the tank refills as you idle by the side of the road. You should look into how clean your gas tank is and consider pulling the tank filter to inspect it. There is also a drain plug on the gas tank and on the vacuum tank. If you can get them out, replace them with brass ones. There is a 3rd plug on the top of the vacuum tank. Next time your car stops, bring a quart jar. If you remove the vacuum tank drain plug, you should have about a quart of fuel in the tank if all is working properly. Bring a tiny funnel and some fresh gas to refill the vacuum tank. What you drain out may not be clean. If this were my car, I would go thru everything fuel related and ensure there is no trash anywhere and that all of it is in working order. Posting some fuel stuff for you to look at. If you don't want problems on the road, it is best to go thru all the components and ensure everything is sorted out rather than wait for the trouble to start. This is a procedure to walk you thru the process to rebuild the carburetor. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/322950-1927-buick-carb-removal/ This is what the fuel pick up screen looks like , below that is a vacuum tank rebuilding procedure. Hugh
  5. Barry, Olsons Gaskets and Egge Machine would be the 2 places I would contact first. Possibly Bob's Automobilia also. Hugh
  6. KHenry, Thanks for the photo and welcome. This should help you get started and give you some things to think about. Hugh https://forums.aaca.org/topic/337820-receiving-1926-buick-master-six-soon/?tab=comments#comment-2026214
  7. Ken, It is interesting that the needle does well at idle but not at speed. It may need a little breaking in. I would also suggest putting in a nitrophyl float. I do not believe replacement needles are available, and the seat is the float bowl. If someone knows otherwise, please enlighten me. Inspect the needle. It should not have a "ring" in the tapered point. If it does, you will need to have it turned to a smooth cone again on a very small lathe. If you are lucky and it is still a smooth cone, you can put just a spot of fine valve grinding compound evenly on the taper of the needle. Not too much. Follow the instructions below. I learned this trick from a friend that flies vintage airplanes. Hugh
  8. The 1922-1924 4 cylinder and 1923 -1924 6 cylinder used the bolt and collet as shown under the gear. It was also used in later years thru 1927, but 1925 to 1927 had the potmetal distributor bodies. Hugh
  9. I converted my cowl lights to turn signals. This is the 6 volt turn signal system that I added to my 1925 Buick. Most of the bulbs are LED. Hugh https://forums.aaca.org/topic/337486-turn-signal-addition/?tab=comments#comment-1969695
  10. Thanks for sharing your early Buick photograph. These are very hard to come by and that is neat that you still have the engine and serial numbers of a car that your grandfather owned. The Jaguar cars have a VIN registry and you can find cars that are adjacent to your car numbers. I do not know if Buick has any such registry. Many of these cars were registered by VIN and many others by engine number in the early days. Brian is correct on the year and model. Hugh
  11. Hi Tim, Welcome. Your car looks great. The distributor gear is on a collet and can be put in any position. There is a photo below. I have had mine slip as well and it has left me stranded. I was afraid to overtighten it. I am going to post my write up for you that should help. It is more than you need and the links may not work, but I think it will cover what you are looking for. Do you have the side curtains for your car? That is my most recent project. Hugh
  12. The advantage of the electric fuel pump is that it turns on when the ignition switch is in the on position. This will fill the float bowl prior to cranking the engine. My Jaguar has an SU fuel pump that clicks until it builds pressure. It builds pressure as the needle and seat begin to close as the fuel level rises in the float bowl. The clicks are rapid at first, and then more time between the clicks, then it stops clicking when the bowl is full. I listen to the clicks and when they stop I crank the car. With a mechanical fuel pump you will still be cranking with a no fuel situation until the bowl fills. If you are not worried about where the fuel evaporated to, just install an electric fuel pump.
  13. With no vacuum tank, that should be in your favor. I would install a low pressure electric fuel pump. When you turn the key on, it will fill the float bowl before starting if you wait a brief moment before starting to ensure the bowl is full.
  14. Either one will outlive you given the service it is in.
  15. You should be good for several days if not a week with modern gas if your carburetor is working properly. If I let the Buick sit for 2 weeks, I can tell that it is a little starved for gasoline at the start, but I can even go for a month and it will start. Just not on the first try always. Pull the choke when cold and that will increase the mixture during the start and increase the amount of vacuum to the vacuum tank which will bring gas more quickly to the vacuum tank. Here are some thoughts based on my 1925 Buick / Marvel. I have a vacuum tank only. No fuel pump. Lets start with where has the fuel vaporized to. 1) place an aluminum pie pan under the carburetor. Once you shut off the engine it should stay dry. Check it every couple of hours for liquid after turning the engine off. You may have fuel in the pan, and then it is evaporating. I assume the fuel is leaking out where the mixture packing is, and then it is evaporating off the ground. Buy some 3/32 graphite packing ($4 on Ebay) or $3 at your hardware store). Repack under the nut. You may get away with just tightening the nut. Note. You are not supposed to adjust the mixture with the nut tight. Loosen the packing nut, adjust the mixture, tighten the packing nut. Otherwise you could break the wheel off the adjuster shaft. The packing nut may just need to be tightened. If you decide to repack, mark the mixture wheel, count the number of 1/4 turns until gently seated, so that you can put it right back where it was after repacking. 2) With the car outside, you can remove the three bowl cover screws to observe the float level. Remove the bowl cover metal plate and look at the gas level in the carburetor. On my car, you can start the car with the bowl cover off. You should be able to observe how quickly the fuel level is being lost. 3) The photo show the carburetor and the low speed jet. The fuel level should be just below the low speed jet or fuel will leak out thru the air intake when the car is shut off. The level should still only drop to the level of the low speed jet. The packing nut is the next culprit to allow the fuel to drip out of the carburetor. You could also have a fuel leak on one of the other 2 gaskets under the bowl - like the inlet banjo and there is also a plug on the bottom of the carburetor as well. One more thought on starting after 3 weeks. The vacuum tank holds about a quart of fuel. As the level in the float bowl drops, the float should drop and the needle will raise off the seat and refill. It should continually do this until the vacuum tank is empty. So you are losing more than just the amount in the carburetor. Hugh