Hubert_25-25

Tom, This is a drawing of the 168-4 metering pin link. I do not have the dimensions for the link used in 1932 for the series 90 Buick. Perhaps Broadstreet can make the correct one for your Marvel, or someone can provide the dimensional data. Hugh

Thanks all. Glad to be back. Internet went out again for a full day, but is back on now. Both sides of the street are getting filled between the ditches and the road with debris. Then these large double box trucks with a crane between, comes down the street taking these massive piles of debris away. I am just hoping that I can get all my stuff to the road before the heaving hauling ends. I am finally doing some small Buick jobs to take a break between chainsawing and lifting logs. Hugh

Bill, The 1927 Buick Master that I am working on has a grill cover. I took these photos to show how it is attached to the headlight bar. Then rubber stops are used top and bottom against the radiator shell so nothing is permanent. There is a local welding shop near me that could likely make this if they had a pattern, if you can't find someone. Hugh

It's been 2 weeks since Hurricane Beryl made landfall and I just had internet restored at the house. We took a near direct hit in Lake Jackson Texas. This is a screenshot of the storm path at 3:15 am. The path is moving north. This is a Cat 1 Hurricane, but we had the highest recorded wind gusts of 107 MPH. We lost power 15 minutes after I took the screen shot. We were without power for 5 days. Got lucky that a generator was made available on Day 4 and that allowed us to run a fan and a few lights. Frozen and refrigerated goods are all now disposed of. Next 5 photos are all shots just walking down the driveway and showing the impass by the downed trees. 4 large trees blocking the driveway. Lost 13 sizeable trees on the lot. Two were greater than 3 foot diameter and five over 2 foot diameter. All uprooted. The beautiful cedar tree by the entrance was split when a very large pine tree came down on it. This is the entrance to the property. These ditches are typically dry. There is a photo of the street in front of the house and you can see that it is blocked by a fallen tree. Two houses down where the power line croses the street, the poles are snapped off and being replaced. There are about 6 bucket trucks and several specialty pole replacement vehicles in this shot. The internet cable for the neighborhood was still on the ground after the power lines were fixed. People just drove over it until it was finally pulled above the street. No damage to the house and everyone is doing well. Just long days of yard clean up and trying to avoid being sucked dry by the mosquitoes. Still waiting in the queue for a crew with heavy equipment that can come in and address the large trees. 3 days after the storm, this is the sunset that we were given as taken from the dock behind the house. Hugh

Jim, Have you contacted Hart radiator to get a cost to put your tank back in order. They routinely fix rusted out gas tanks and then give a lifetime warranty. Located near Houston Texas. They did my gas tank. Hugh https://www.donhart.com/

Hoping that the damage is kept to a minimum. Need the rain but getting it by fire hose. A few hours ago, Lake Jackson was on the edge of the storm path. Now we have moved inside the path. The red dot is the hurricane center path. The red line is the Gulf Coast. Expecting winds of 43 MPH and likely higher. Grateful that this may only develop to a Cat 1 storm. On the "wet side" of the storm. At the same time 2.37 inches of water expected in one hour. The 2 hour forcast is 4". Daily total is over 7". Interesting storm, calm and then massive amounts of rain and high winds. Will provide an early update if power and internet last thru the night. Hugh

Larry, I could kick myself. A couple years back I did research this issue and the answer was a Voltage Regulator that James Peterson was selling. These are no longer available. Upon a lot of digging this week, I did come up with the following. https://modeltstarters.com/product/6v-model-t-voltage-regulator-no-ford-script/ There is also a long back story to the development of this voltage regulator. I am including this link for those that want to really dig into this issue. https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25609&sid=8536f8949858a5794f85a9564faefcae&start=100 So this should be a straight forward application. I did not see installation instructions so hopefully it is pretty straightforward to install. Adding a few circuits drawings and photos to help with understanding of where to make the connections. Hugh

These are the instructions for setting the caster from the 1925 Buick shop manual. The top slants back 1 to 2 degrees. Postive Caster. The thick side of the shim belongs on the rear. You could make the same early set up and use a bubble. With modern alignment equipment, I would go with how an alignment tech. would set the car up. That said, I have no shims, so I assume I am at 0 caster. I have not had any problems. Hugh

The separate starter generator came out in 1926 for Buick. So no older than that. It is a 115" Buick Standard because the head has a single outlet nozzle. The V groove pulley and no longer a leather belt - would suggest 1929. casting numbers starting with "19 could be 1928 or 1929, but I can not tell what part they are so I can't look them up.

When you get into the hub, I think you may find that the "grease port" is not very effective at getting fresh grease to the bearings. - I have seen front wheel seals blown out from over greasing. Then the grease moves down the inside of the drum and onto the outside and into the brakes. - I have also seen grease get there from over greasing the front brake pivot. So once the wheel bearing is exposed, look at whether you think the grease point in the hub is worth using. I have decided that it can do more harm than good. For instance - There have not been grease fittings on wheels for a long while. Even 60's cars, the process was to remove the wheel, remove the grease, and repack the bearing. For wheels at least, the train of thought was not to pump in more grease, but to pull apart, clean, and use new grease. Wheel bearings in the 60's were not repacked all that frequently. Maybe 10,000 to 30,000 miles? Modern synthetic wheel bearing grease is miles better than the old stuff. My advise is to repack the wheel bearings after disassemby and consider a repack after many miles. Hugh

More photos and notes from Vin. There are boxes of many other small parts. A few dozen Buick manuals. The engine is late 1922 and is more significant than the early 1922 engines,

1922 Buick Sport Touring and Sedan parts. Windshield frame, bumpers, motor, transmission, ring and pinion, spare tire carrier, muffler, many other parts Posting this for Vin Cassidy. vincent@cassidybros.com nine78-seven58-0834 Hugh

That looks to be the correct engine for a 1924 Buick 6 cylinder. 1923 was a cage valve engine. 1924 had the square intake manifold. 1925 intake was rounded. The engine tag is what is not matching up. Casting numbers on the block may be a better way to ID this motor. Looks like a neat Buick. Sorry about the yellow paint. Hugh

Larry, I was interested in this problem when I first read about it a couple years ago. My car was not running at the time but I was seeing good reviews regarding adding a voltage regulator to the generator. I think I probably need to order one of these myself. Hugh

I like leaving this post with the last photographs, but the story continues. Now that the top is finished, I need to transport the Buick to the owner. Folding the top is the best way to transport the car in an enclosed trailer. Sometimes an old car is too tall for many enclosed trailers. We also discussed that for parades, it's nice to have the option to fold the top. This requires additional pieces. The car needed top rests and a boot cover. Top rests come from www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com They are in Australia. The prices are AUD so don't get sticker shock. Do the conversion to USD. Do look at what they have as they are going out of business and they have some very nice stuff in the Buick and the Universal sections. The top boot is necessary as well, not only to keep all the top fabric from making a big parachute behind the car, but also to keep the glass back window off the spare tire to prevent breakage. www.antiqueautotophardware.com made the leather top rest straps and the leather pads. There is a deviation from normal on this top assembly. Normally all wood top bows nestle on top of each other. The front bow on this car is a little longer due to the top socket assembly that was available and not OEM. This required me to make two small straps that snap onto the top sockets at the top pivot point. This keeps the top bow in place since it can not rest on the stack of bows underneath it. As with all upholstery, I have to make a pattern. Not to difficult to make a bag. With the fabric installed inside out, it is not too difficult to tailor the size of the bag to what is underneath. Then the bag is turned inside out to check the fit. I also had to pull many areas to get good mark lines. This photo shows the 2 inch edge reinforcing like is installed on all tops and side curtains. This photo shows the leather strap and more of the top fitting. The seams are also double stitched as done when making a convertible top. This photo show the 2 straps on each side of the top boot that pull on the upper and lower sides of the boot to keep tension on it. They snap on the existing back curtain lift the Dot snaps.