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About Hubert_25-25

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    1k+ Senior Member
  • Birthday 02/11/1960

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    Lake Jackson TX

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  1. Hubert_25-25

    1928 standard - window shades

    Here is one windsheild sticker on Ebay
  2. Hubert_25-25

    Starter Generator clash with the sliding gear -pre 1925

    Brad, I hope to have plenty of good documentation for you when I am done. I don't know if you know the history of my 1925 Standard, but the previous owner bought the car in 1963. It was running at the time, but the guy wanted to restore it. He pulled the body off the frame. He had another Buick in his collection (1925 or 27) that was also auctioned off at the same time my car was. He was mainly into Model A Fords. Nothing was fixed other than the frame was blasted and painted and he did have some extra rear axle parts. The owner had an extensive collection of stuff when he passed away. All this went to auction about 10 years after his death. Someone put the body back on the frame with hardware store bolts, threw parts in buckets, put the engine on an old tire, stretch wrapped the parts, and made it look like a complete car. To the unknowing (me) 1926 radiator and shell, 1922 mud pan, Ford headlight lenses (installed backwards and upside down so you could not read the Ford Script), lots of wrong rims, etc. I thought I had found correct replacements for mostly all the incorrect items. I wish I knew who got the other Buick because we could make each other happy swapping each others parts back. The fact that it came with two 283 Starter generators (1925 Standard only) - both with Master starter pinion gears on the end is very ridiculous. Even going thru the SG rebuilding, I found several critical pieces missing when I started comparing what the parts book showed to what was in the SG unit. But starting out the day thinking I merely needed to install the SG unit with 3 bolts and finding out 2 days later what really was wrong is how this entire project has been going. Always an adventure. This is a photo of my car in 1963. That rear bumper did not come with my car. Another one did, and it did not fit, but it was in with the pile of parts. Also a photo of all the parts and the body picture used in the auction. Hugh
  3. Hubert_25-25

    1918 Buick tail light

    Morgan, The scroll work design on the nickel bezel started with the 1924 model year. My book shows that they used that lamp for 1924 6 cyl and 25-26 Masters . I would think also for 1927, but my book does not list 1927. The Standard cars did not get the nickeled trim ring on the tail light. Only on the cowl lights, and smaller diameter than the Masters. What does the other tail light look like? Maybe you can find a match? Hugh
  4. Hubert_25-25

    1918 E-49 clutch job

    Morgan, Those friction linings really look good. You should be able to burn some rubber at the stop light now. Hugh
  5. Hubert_25-25

    Starter Generator clash with the sliding gear -pre 1925

    Larry, You are better than Santa Claus. Everyone knows that he doesn't have any old Buick parts. That will make a world of difference and I get to pull the SG unit out again but I will be glad to do it this time. So I am also looking for a 13 teeth starter pinion gear for my spare SG unit. If anyone has an extra, it is the same for 1923 & 24 4 cylinder and 1925 Standard. The early 6 and Master pinion gears will not work, and apparently I have 2 of them if someone is looking. Hugh
  6. Hubert_25-25

    Starter Generator clash with the sliding gear -pre 1925

    So a little progress today. I took out the upper rear bolt cone bushing. I raised the rear of the SG unit just a little to keep the gears from becoming so tight. The front top bolt still has the centering washer so that is tight. The lower bolt is a regular bolt, so it is now tight. On the upper rear bolt I used a regular washer. Since the hole was built for a cone bushing, it is a little oversized. The flat washer is conforming to the hole some, so it is making a new cup washer that conforms to hole being just a smidge off center. I am calling this plan A. After doing this, my other option ( plan B ) is to put a shim on the rear of the resting block and put the cone washer back in place. The cone will seat on the bottom of the tapered hole . It all seems to be working under the Plan A method. Just wondering if I should switch it to the plan B method or leave it alone and try it. Hugh
  7. Hubert_25-25

    1918 E-49 clutch job

    Morgan, The old rivets that I removed were drilled deeper than the new rivets. This made the rivet more versatile and would do a wider range of length. You should have 2 lengths of rivets that came with the friction linings. Hugh
  8. Last year of the Starter Generator (SG) Unit, and I am beginning to understand why. I am trying to install the (SG) unit on the engine after a removal 55 years ago. The sliding gear moves to the rear when the starter pedal is pressed. The first gear it engages with is the starter generator gear, and then another 1/8" further movement and it begins to engage the flywheel. Without the SG unit in place, the engagement of the sliding gear with the flywheel works well. The problem is that the sliding gear shaft and the SG pinion gear shafts appear to be too close. There is a shelf that the SG unit rests on until you can get the tapered washers in place and begin fastening it down. I tried to show in a drawing where the metal is touching and where the locating cones are touching. There really is no adjustment to alter the centerline for the gears. As I begin to get close to tightening the centering cones, the shafts are tight against each other and the starter won't turn. The SG units are stamped "283" which is correct for the 1925 Standard. I have 2 SG units and they both do the same thing. I was wondering if anyone else has experienced a problem with these or would know of the best way to adjust this. On a positive note, I am developing great biceps from dragging this 60 lb unit in and out of the frame. Hugh
  9. Hubert_25-25

    1922 gear shift key

    Mark, The floorboard thimble is a finger hole in the drivers side floorboard on the open cars up thru 1925. There were made of pot metal so many did not survive. They did not always get reinstalled either if the floorboards were replaced. Greg Lange had made some replacements and currently has a mold. Hugh
  10. Hubert_25-25


    Terry, Before flywheel removal, rotate 1 and 6 piston to TDC and align the mark that is on the teeth side of the flywheel with the 1-6 line. My photo shows the 1-6 line, but it was not taken at TDC. What you should find is that one of the bolt holes is TDC. At least that was the way it was on my engine. This is the hole to punch and on the inside face of the flywheel. These are the punch marks I put on mine. You will have to really zoom in on the assembly, but there is green tape where the #1 top bolt is and these punch marks are below it. They are not necessary to punch, but useful and superfluous. (Ah, my chance to use a big word). When you have the engine balanced, they will balance the flywheel by itself, and the crankshaft by itself. This way you can use either flywheel. You still want the TDC mark of the flywheel to be on TDC of 1 and 6 which ever flywheel you use. Hugh
  11. Hubert_25-25

    1922 gear shift key

    Mark, Put penetrating lube on a couple occasions in the keyhole and it may need to sit for a couple of days. You may want to consider having a new key made in case that one breaks or gets a crack in the process. I would then put vise grips on the key and continue to rotate it back and forth gently. The vise grips are really just to make it easier to hold. It will eventually turn one way or the other, but it takes a lot of patience-not unlike loosening a rusty bolt. If you apply too much pressure in one direction you will likely break it off. Gentle nudging is what usually works. A quality key blank would be good to use if you can get one first. I really like to see the original linoleum and the original door panel and trim. Take lots of pictures as original photos are hard to come by. It is rare to see your floorboard thimble as well. If your door check straps are original leather, I would like to know the thickness. Thank you, Hugh
  12. Hubert_25-25

    Brian Heil Official Announcement

    Brian, Congratulations on your big day. Wishing you the best and that now you can take those really long Buick road trips that you never had the time for. Hugh
  13. Hubert_25-25

    1928 Buick spark control question

    Larry is correct. If you are hand cranking or using the starter, it is easier on the starter if you retard the spark. In the case of hand cranking, you really want the spark to be set to fire After Top dead Center. Once started you want all the spark to occur before TDC. The lever allows you to advance the spark for improved performance, and the mechanical advance allows some automatic adjustment for speed. Hugh
  14. Hubert_25-25

    Engine Analyzer for 6 volt systems...

    Interesting to see a 16 volt and 32 volt setting. Not sure what that would be used for back in the day.
  15. Hubert_25-25


    Larry, Really glad to hear that you have Buelah up and running. I wish I was close enough to go for a ride. The nuts used on the 1/8 and 1/4" tubing for oil/vacuum/and fuel lines are called "brass threaded sleeve nuts". I went looking for them the other day, and it took forever to find them without knowing the correct term. I think I found these with the search term "1/8 tubing sleeve nuts" Hugh