Hubert_25-25

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Hubert_25-25 last won the day on February 25

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About Hubert_25-25

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  • Birthday 02/11/1960

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  1. Adding a valve will stop the fluid flow and then all you will have is heat conduction thru the closed valve which is minimal. Normally a valve is installed on the pump side of a heater core. If you have a leak in the heater core, the valve would minimize the pressure on the heater core.
  2. Here are the tire sizes used, but as stated above it is more about what is going on with the hubs and axles. Hugh
  3. Still working on how I really want to do my water pump - again. I could go back and just increase the tolerances on the bronze pump seal bushings after reinstallation, and hope for the best. I did purchase a different 3/4" reamer with an adjustable pilot guide which would greatly improve the chances of keeping the line boring correct on a bushed water pump. The spacing is too far apart for just a standard adjustable reamer. They say this style is supposed to be used when doing king pins as well. The Ford model A folks have a lot to teach us about why so many of their cars are still on the road. It's not just that they built so darn many, but they have been upgrading parts over the years as well to make them more reliable. Crazy difference in their world to get these 1/2" thick catalogs of parts for model A and model T cars - most every part available, and from multiple vendors. I then read this forum on model A leakless pump seals, and a couple of things struck me. It seems almost all of them use inexpensive neoprene lip seals, and there is also a real variety of bearing designs used. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18945&showall=1 Another thing that I find strange about my Buick water pump bushings is that there are no grease connections. I honestly think that the grease would wash away rather quickly anyway, but many other cars of this era have these. By the way, At max engine RPM (2800) the water pump spins at 4200 rpm. The fan spins at 5600 rpm. So I plan to only reinstall the bushings to use them for maintaining the end play on the impeller. I am also looking into doing a lip seal conversion and using ball bearings. The following shows the layout that I am working on. My pump has a packing nut on each side, and all this fits in the packing nuts. Hugh
  4. It would be easier if he got on to the Buick Pre War technical site. VCCA is nice, but if you want to get specific information on a particular make and model, it is always best to go to a more specific forum. Can you send him this link and we can give him the information that he needs. https://forums.aaca.org/forum/60-buick-pre-war-technical/ Hugh
  5. 75 miles on the Buick and I took it for a long drive (10 miles) to see how it would do with a little speed and distance. It would do 50 mph, but preferred 45 mph. I had driven it at 45 mph for a few miles a couple of days earlier and it seemed to run well. On the return trip I saw some spots on the windshield (my hood is not on yet). Then I looked down across the windshield and I could see antifreeze streaming out of the rear water pump packing nut. We pulled over. The bright finish from the packing nut was gone, and the paint discolored at the outlet threads. I tightened the nut a few turns. but that only slowed the leak to a smaller leak but would not stop it. We towed it home. I had spun the rear water pump bushing and the heat just melted the rear water pump seals. All that was left were the springs from the 2 rear lip seals. Upon disassembly, the front bushing was also spun as it came right out of the housing and was stuck to the shaft. The front seals had not gone yet. So, back to working on the water pump again. I guess the tolerances were too tight for the heat generated so next time I make the tolerances a little more sloppy - not sure what the tolerances should be other than I can make them less tight. There was just a little drag on the pump when you spun it. I am also wondering about the choice of bushing material. McMaster Carr sells several bearing materials. The original was some bronze (not oilite). These are SAE 660 leaded bronze. The note also says "they are sometimes called 932 bronze bushings". They also say "lubrication required" The oilite bearing is SAE 841 bronze. Under lubrication it says "SAE 30 wt". I will post my notes on getting these bearings off the shaft as well, as it was not easy. Hugh
  6. What RPM are you running at idle. You can really turn the engine speed down on these with the low compression engines. Mine will just lope. I need to put a tachometer on it, but it could be idling as low as 300 rpm and it registers almost nothing. At speed I am at almost 30 PSIG.
  7. I think the key to the JBWeld is getting the screw out before it hardens completely. Maybe practice on something first. Consider using a piece of allthread instead of a machine screw so that you could put a nut on the top if you had to.
  8. Larry, As always, thank you for your deep knowledge of Buicks. I have edited my posting. Hugh
  9. 1926 Buick Standard Radiator and Shell. I believe this will also fit the following with these known exclusions. 1924 Standard - I think this would fit, but we would need to talk. Will not fit 1925 Standard - Will fit as a complete shell and radiator, but the shell is "less flat" than used in 1925. The radiator inlet nozzle was enlarged in 1926 so a 1926 radiator will not fit in a 1925 shell. 1927 Standard - The shell is supposed to be the same as 1926, but the radiator has a thermostat. The shell is a good one and I do not think it will need much prior to plating. There is some seapage in the radiator in a few spots. It looks like it should work but may require some stop leak. That is what the radiator shop told me when I had them look at it. $450 Buyer pays shipping. PM me if you are interested. Thank you Hugh
  10. Morgan, Here is an idea on the cost to rebabbitt in 2018. Babbit work was done in California. Line boring and crankshaft regrind was done 1 hour away in Houston to save on shipping a crankshaft and block. They unfortunately never asked so, no shims were installed on the crank mains prior to the line bore, so I have none to remove later if I wanted to. Connecting rods do have shims. $ 852 Babbit on 4 main bearings $1022 Babbit the Connecting Rods $30 Shipping to California from Texas $41 return Shipping $225 Regrind crank shaft (1 hour away) $385 Line bore the block (1 hour away) $100 Shop fees and tax ------------------------- $2,655 If the babbits plastigauge as good, and the surfaces are good, I would consider to run with it. This is your call though. Cleaning the engine out and adding fresh modern oil will make a world of difference. It depends on the extent that you want to do the car and if you are willing to risk $3,000 that the engine is going to be OK. I was of the opinion that when you rebuild an engine, you do all of it. Now with the cost of babbiting getting so expensive, you have to really inspect what you have and make a determination. Hugh
  11. Here is what happened as time marched on in Buick land. Up thru 1924, the spark and throttle levers were on the right side of the steering column. In 1925 Buick moved the spark advance to the other side of the steering column when they went to the shorter levers. What did stay consistent is that rotating the spark lever clockwise advances the timing. What changed is that the advance lever location to set the basic time went from "all the way up" (pre 1925) to "all the way down" (1925 and later). I had copied 2 write ups on setting ignition timing from the forum. Both were written for Pre 1925 Buicks, and this was not stated. I struggle with a lot of this when I do postings, because so much is very specific to just a few years. Hugh
  12. The last owner of my car was a Ford model A guy, and he had my Buick because he like the look of the car. I wonder if he didn't set the timing up reversed on purpose to match the model A. I was the one that pulled the cross shaft apart, and I reassembled it the way I found it.
  13. Brian, Thanks for the added notes. Setting the initial timing at the non factory setting of 7 Before TDC follows more of the norm of other automakers and later engines. The throttle lever was replaced with the introduction of the bimetallic spring and automatic choke. The spark advance lever was replaced by the vacuum advance. Not sure if these disappeared from the steering wheel at the same time or even when. The vacuum advance will be delayed during cranking (depending on how fast the car starts) and under heavy load as the throttle going wide open will lower the vacuum . The 2 times that the reference guide suggests retarding the spark. I have a friend with a Ford Model A and he always retards the spark for cranking as he feels it cranks easier and less risk for kick back. He said he lost a starter motor from cranking his car with the advance on. Maybe it was a coincidence, maybe the Delco is a more robust unit? I have not noticed difficulty cranking if I forgot to retard the spark and just cranked it. Hugh
  14. Brian, I am wondering if there is something different between the large 1923 and earlier Buick advance levers and the 1925 and up small advance levers. Looking at the procedures that people have written about setting ignition timing, they start the procedures with "spark advance lever is all the way up". This is where you start on a Model A with the ignition timing as well. On a 1925 Buick, it is all the way down, or "full retard" for starting. This is where you find your idle timing marks. The factory flywheel mark is 7 degrees After TDC. I do plan to follow your advise and use 7 degrees Before TDC after I drive the car a little so that I can feel the difference it will make. There is more to the story though. First I had installed my advance arm on the end of the spark advance cross shaft pointing up. This is wrong. The problem with buying a basket case. The advance arm should point down. A) If you want to be like a model A, put the spark lever "up", put the advance arm pointing "up", set initial timing here. Pull down for more advance and ignore the arrow that says retard. B ) Factory set up. Pull the spark lever Down - Full retard. Install the advance arm point "down". Set the ignition timing here. Push the lever "up" to provide more engine spark advance. A and B both work, as long as you know that your cranking position is spark advance lever "up" using A and lever "down" using B. If your lever arm at the starter generator is correct, and you set the ignition timing with the steering spark arm in the "up" position as has been stated by others, then you retard the spark when you pull it down and this negates the effect of the advance weights and you get retarded or zero advance. Like the backwards shift pattern of the early Buicks, so goes the spark advance levers. There was no standard back in the day. Renting a car would be a very interesting experience. Hugh