Jump to content

Hubert_25-25

Members
  • Posts

    2,703
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Hubert_25-25 last won the day on July 10 2019

Hubert_25-25 had the most liked content!

About Hubert_25-25

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lake Jackson TX USA

Recent Profile Visitors

6,248 profile views

Hubert_25-25's Achievements

10,000+ Points

10,000+ Points (6/7)

  • Well Followed Rare
  • Reacting Well
  • Dedicated
  • Very Popular Rare
  • Collaborator

Recent Badges

3.1k

Reputation

  1. That silicone will never hold up to the engine heat. Find the engine serial plate on the exhaust side of the engine block. Provide that number and we can tell you the engine year. A photo of the engine and the fire truck would be nice:-). This is the fuel preheat system. It is no longer necessary with todays fuels. It does require blanking plates in 3 places. You must blank off both ends of the exhaust flow in the vertical heat riser tube. You should remove the butterfly in the exhaust divertor and add that blanking plate in the divertor end, but this one is not as critical. Technically, if you blank off and seal both ends of the exhaust portion of the heat riser, it should not matter if the inside tubing has holes in it. You cannot have any leakage outside of the intake manifold. Solder or a high temperature epoxy would be a better choice to plug any pinholes in that inner tubing if you are not going to replace it. You should also look at the postings on Marvel carburter rebuilding - if you are still running an original carburetor. You should also do future posts regarding the engine on the Buick PreWar site. Hugh
  2. Some additional information on Buick Tools of this era.
  3. Following up and using another photo from Larry. Notice in the above photo, that the rubber mat is edged, so that diamond design was not just cut from a roll of material. It was a stamping or came out of a mold. What I find interesting from the photo below is that the rubber mat extends onto the vertical face of the fire wall. In this photo, another mat has been used on the angled and horizontal front floor.
  4. Gary, For a 1926 model 47, the front would be rubber mat. It would not be a ribbed rubber mat. I have seen photos of these. I believe it had diamonds in the pattern. It is no longer available. I do not know if this specification changed in 1927. Photo below is from 1926 Buick General Specifications. I do have access to the 1927 Buick General Specifications, but it is on microfiche and I would have to go the the library to verify if this was changed in 1927 to carpet. The last photos are an original 1926 model 40 interior. It appears that the headliner is installed, and then the wall panels with no windlace. Hugh
  5. John, From the Big Buick Parts book Rear wheel assembly, Natural Wood "1924 - 54 - 55- X54 - X55 sage brush green drum, sage brush green stripe on spokes, two orange stripes on sage brush green felloe. " Also used on 1925 (same as above). Pin stripe should be 1/8" wide. Spoke stripe pattern should be striped like this wheel. 1/8" mainly then flaring to 1/4" width. Felloe stripe gets 2 stripes in orange Hugh
  6. John, One of the issues you will run into with modern paints and colors is "pearl" and "metal flake" is in almost all new paints. All of the old paints have been reformulated (no one paints with lacquer anymore) So you want to find someone that has found the paint code for some of these old colors. 1924 had "Sage Green", but it was used on the more expensive Buicks. My car (1925-25) Only came in Black w/white pinstripe, or Brewster Green with red pinstripe. I like both. I do have the paint codes for Brewster Green - and Black is Black (if you know where to look). I also have the paint code for Cobalt Blue. What I like is that I tell people, in 1925, the Standard Buick touring car only came in 2 colors, and if you wanted a blue car, you bought another model. Also that the pinstripe was factory applied - not at a dealership. I think that is a piece of history. Oddly, I do not see 1924 model 45 in the list?? My choice, if I did not like either of these colors, is to stay period correct. I would go with Sage green (if you want a light green). I have attached a few photos. I think I got most of these from Larry DiBarry. I would look at how Buick pinstriped that color (in the big Book of Buick parts). FYI, the model 45 came with body color painted wood spokes. The expensive models received the natural color spokes so you have already made that upgrade. Notice how the color options grew as the years went by. 1925 was the first year for Buick to use Dupont Nitrocelulous Lacquer. Also you won't find a primer under this old paint so process and colors were very different. Just my opinion. Hugh
  7. I think most have done nothing. I have a 4.9 to 1 ratio like most of these cars. Are there even any gear swaps available? An overdrive unit installation would be a lot of modification. Hugh
  8. These are what the wiring connectors look like and the wiring harness. Are you planning to do armored cables? Look at what "Rhode Island wiring" offers. My wiring photo shows 3 harnesses in the set. Hugh
  9. Rod, Are you looking for part 115067 Rear Wheel bearing roller, wheel bearing roller Hyatt WRA210 1925-1926 std 6. 1927-1928 ser 115 1929 Ser 116 1930 ser 40 1931-32 Ser 60. Are you needing one or two? I have atleast one. Hugh
  10. Glenn, Sending you wood pattern drawings for the top wood bows. This link is basically what you will be doing if you take on this challenge of needing a top. This will help you understand all of the details and the parts that you will need. Hugh https://forums.aaca.org/topic/403118-no-convertible-top-no-problem-1920s-buick-missing-top-bows-and-sockets/#comment-2577976
  11. I am Currently working on a 1927 Buick Master. I had all intentions of making another aluminum hub with sealed bearings for the fan hub. So much so that I have updated my drawings with the dimensions so a person can make these hubs for a Standard or a Master. By the time I got into the cost of the aluminum and the machining, and the fact that the thing that I only really needed was to replace the felt seal with a modern lip seal, that is what I did. For Mid to late 20's Buick Master or Standard, the lip seal that you want is 19mm x 26mm x 5.5mm You can find these on Ebay for around $12. Look for a seal with the internal spring. I did rough up the outer side of the lip seal using coarse sandpaper. I cleaned the area with lacquer thinner where the lip seal replaces the felt seal inside the fan hub I used silicone to adhere the seal into the place where the felt seal was. Others have used black RTV sealant. I used a deep socket to hold the seal in place for 24 hours to let the adhesive dry. I made two new 1/64" paper gaskets for the fan hub. You can see the lip seal inside the back end of the fan hub housing. I filled it with oil and everything looks great. A big improvement over felt. Hugh
  12. Those push pins look correct. I can see them in the first photo of the 1926 model 40 with the original interior.
  13. Wilson, The length of the bolt without the threads is about 2 1/2" long. So the base of this triangle is about 5" long. Once you get behind the upholstery, you will likely see the outline of this in the wood, and you will certainly see the 4 mounting holes from the screws. The second picture is a similar hand fabricated bracket that is on the 1927 Buick that I am working on. This one has the top rest post that goes thru the sheetmetal rather than on top of it. Hugh
  14. Larry, Attached are the pages about setting the valve timing. The first 4 pages are from the 1926 Buick Export manual. In essence, valve timing is correct and checked by a) putting a piece of paper in the #1 inlet valve gap area where you check with a feeler gauge. b) Put slight tension on the paper. c) Another person Rotates the engine slowly. D) As soon as the paper is let go. Stop. The engine should be on the 1-6 line or less than 1 flywheel tooth width before (above) - the 1-6 line is just below the center mark in the timing window. I am also assuming that someone put the flywheel on correctly and 1-6 is TDC for the engine on #1. I have known engines to have been assembled with the flywheel on the wrong bolts. This is the page from the 1925 Buick export manual. Same instructions. So you can use what you know from your engines. This is the layout on my 1925 Buick Standard. I do not know if the teeth count is the same for a Standard and a Master, as the crank and camshaft gears are different sizes. The final check is the paper check on the #1 intake valve. Hugh
  15. Those straps are a really interesting approach. They are break over straps to limit the compression and still stay attached. There must have been some movement in the clamps to necesitate adding the strap.
×
×
  • Create New...