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Hubert_25-25

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Hubert_25-25 last won the day on July 10 2019

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About Hubert_25-25

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  • Birthday 02/11/1960

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    Lake Jackson TX

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  1. When I was going thru the front axle for my 1925-25, I found that the outer races required only a single adapter on the bearing race to make a modern roller bearing fit. For the inner bearing, I could not find a good replacement and I felt that I would need to make an adapter for both the inner cone and the outer race. What complicated matters was the oil seal, as this is part of the bearing and that would need to be designed into the adapter. Not a big job to do this, but something that would need to be done. I just happened to be able to swap enough parts that I did not have to replace t
  2. You should post your Buick questions on the Buick Pre War website. What came with the car would have been what is shown below. Sometimes these were drilled out and a motometer installed, or a person bought a dogbone with a motometer. As rudimentary as a motometer is, it is rare to have an antique car with no temperature indicator at all. Too easy to burn up a motor. It is easier to find the one that fits if it has a motometer and the motometer internal plate says Buick in it. There is not a new one available. The thread pitch is different for Buick even though th
  3. Rod, Thanks for those wiring diagrams. I did not have them. OB2, I find this 1923-24 wiring diagram a little easier to understand because the ignition switch looks inside like the diagram. There are 3 prongs on the ignition switch. When the handle is rotated "ON", 1, 2 and 3 are joined by the spider contacts. Use a volt meter or test light. even a 12 volt test light will work if a little dim. There are three 16 ga wires in your starter generator. One is on the post with the battery cable. Consider this power out. The other 2 are power coming in to t
  4. Attached is a link to help you with your floor and running boards. My boards were missing as well. Ash was used where sheetmetal was attached with nails. Easy to drive the small nails. For floor and running boards, I like using Oak. It is a little stiffer than pine (which is also a good choice) and it is easy to acquire locally. It does require predrilling of the holes for screws. Hugh https://forums.aaca.org/topic/324627-floor-board-and-running-board-mid-20s-buick-details/?tab=comments#comment-1861441
  5. David, The following photos from my friends 1923-39. May not have had ears on all caps. His note says "It was on the car when I got it, so as far as I know it is original to the car. It measures about 2.19” I.D. on the treads, 18 TPI." Hugh
  6. David, This is what the top clamp looks like that is correct for your 1922 Touring. I do not know yet if this is for the left or right side (43238 or 43239). I do not know if he is interested in selling, but I will ask. Hugh
  7. Ken, Your chassis plate starting with 150 tells me that it is 1926 as the 1926 Master engine numbers started with 145 1927 started with 169. 21" wheels started in 1926 6 acorn nuts on the rear axle says it is a Master. 120" wheelbase says Master The Brake adjustment with nuts on both sides of the adjuster started in 1926. For Buick models 40, 44, 45, and 47. Should be applicable to Buick Master 1926 and 1927 Hugh
  8. Same mickey mouse screw on gasoline cap for 1922 and 1923 Buick 4 cylinder. Perhaps someone may have a good photo for you. Probably not too difficult to make. It should have a tiny vent hole. Hugh
  9. Posting how to fold the top on a 1925 Buick. This would be the same process. A couple of thoughts about laying my top down as I have done this a couple of times. - one person can fold it. You have to straddle the front seat. Good to have another person or 2 around. - Fold the gypsy curtains in first. Maybe that is in your procedure as yours starts with #3. - The top sockets come close to the painted tops of the rear toneau and the rear doors while folding. See Fig 66. I put towels over them before I start, just to make sure that I do not scratch them. - Use the bo
  10. On the 1927 - There is no carb heat cable. There is a pull out knob which closes the choke. This will make the car run rich. Are you saying that the car dies when you begin to push the knob in, or take it off full choke? There is a lever for heating the carburetor that is below the choke knob. This should have no effect to the operation with modern fuels. So is it the lever or knob that is effecting the running?. I would suggest that the carburetor needs rebuilding. It is very likely that the venturi has grown and is effecting the air valve operation. Attached is a carbureto
  11. Barry, My suggestion is to not rely on the existing circuit breaker as it is not a resetable type. On these old styles, if you have a short, the points keep opening and closing and they never really disconnect the power. Everything stays warm until the battery juice runs out or the wires burn thru. Anything you do can be hidden behind the dash. On my car I installed a 2 fuse holder. One for the circuit and the other side for the spare. You can mount it on the gauge hold down bracket. They also now make automotive circuit breakers that are resetable like you have in your home.
  12. That appears to be the original Marvel Carburetor, but I am not the expert on 1932. I did write a procedure on rebuilding the Marvel carburetors if you want to put the car back as it left the factory. Hugh https://forums.aaca.org/topic/322950-1927-buick-carb-removal/?tab=comments#comment-1851489
  13. Since you are new to early Buicks, attached is some information to digest on these. I agree with Rod as the first thing you need to answer is if the engine rotates, then we will move to other areas. 1) Determine that the engine will turn over. Ignition off. In neutral, use the hand crank. Remove the spark plugs to make it easier to crank. Bump it gently at first. Watch the water pump shaft for rotation if the engine does turn. 1923 is still a steel camshaft gear which helps, but I would not force it. It should turn over fairly easily with no plugs in it. Do not force it.
  14. This should help you make a decision on which way to go. Hugh
  15. I would think that you do not have to pull the transmission for this repair. Just move the rear axle back.
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