• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Hubert_25-25 last won the day on February 25

Hubert_25-25 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

746 Excellent

1 Follower

About Hubert_25-25

  • Rank
    1k+ Senior Member
  • Birthday 02/11/1960

Contact Methods

  • AIM

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Lake Jackson TX

Recent Profile Visitors

3,329 profile views
  1. You are in luck. I have that bar. In my search for the foot rest for my 1925 Buick I bought several and I kept getting closer to the correct one. I finally have the correct bar. I have these others that I will be selling. PM me and we can talk. Hugh
  2. I have a brand new set of clutch discs with instructions on how to install them. I had 5 sets made and one person backed out after the parts were delivered. I can even let you borrow the rivet tool if you promise to return it. I will sell it at cost. PM me if you are interested. Hugh
  3. These are mid 20's Buick ignition and light switch levers.
  4. The big book of Buick parts shows door straps for my touring car are made of Black Harness leather. So I bought some 1 3/4" wide leather that is just over 1/8" thick. Now I am not sure of a couple of things. I would think harness leather is on the thicker side of the leather spectrum, but you would not be able to fold this. The sport model straps are "Black long grain" and the strap is 1/32" wider. It is supposed to be stitched on the 2 sides which would suggest that perhaps it is made from thinner material than bridle leather so that it folds easier. So would these be made from leather that is 3 1/2" wide? Does anyone have any photos of original straps. What thickness or weight should I be using? I read that each oz of weight was 1/64". Should this be 6 oz leather? Also wondering if this is a wrapped and stitched part, if I should use some webbing or something else inside that would be better at taking stress than leather so that the strap would last longer and would not just snap when the leather wears thru. Thank you, Hugh
  5. I received the water pump shaft and impeller today. There is an error in the location of the transition of the original shaft diameters from .749 OD to .755 OD. The transition is almost an inch off toward the front of the shaft. The impeller is already bored to .755 . Only 1/4" of the impellor bore is sitting on the .755 shaft. This requires that I must put a bushing in the impeller. I could bore 2 ID's into the bushing. That would fix the impeller. Larry DiBarry also made a small .750 cut in the .755 part of the shaft for his seal to ride in. This is shown in the power point drawing that I made in the previous posting. I am now considering going with the KISS principle that Larry Schramm suggests. I would just clean the shaft length to one diameter .749 1) I do not want to heat the impeller in order to install it. I will never be able to get it off if I ever have to replace the front seal. If this were a shaft with nothing on the end, I would be better with it, but I don't think I could ever remove it if I had to. The picture below shows the parts on the shaft that will not come off until the impeller is removed. There is 2 inches between the impeller and all the parts. 2) Can I get away with a tight - almost a hammer fit on the impellor? 3) Would you feel comfortable with a 1/4" heavy duty stainless roll pin on the parts instead of the 1/4" taper pin? Thank you, Hugh
  6. Here is an interesting array of Standard switch faces in my collection. 1) The first is what was in my car. It just says Delco on the paper under the glass. 2) The second, and I have seen this in another 1925 model. It also just says Delco. In addition, it has the detents for the lights labeled. On the back it also has terminal number 2. As you recall from the 1st posting, terminal #2 is for the cars with combination starter generators, so Pre 1926 or maybe a carry over into 1926 and the #2 terminal was not used. 3) The third was labeled 1927 Buick in paint pen on the side of the housing. This now says Delco-Remy. They took the detent labels off. Maybe too much of a distraction for the day, like the pop up message that says "Keep your eyes on the road".
  7. William, There are 2 tabs on the back of each lever that hold the wavy plate in position when the lever is turned. I went to remove one of these older levers and one of the tabs broke off, so this extra lever I have is useless, although at least the lever arm is not snapped off. The bigger issue is that both the old lever OD is growing bigger, and the ID of the hole in the housing is growing smaller. Once your old lever is removed, you can wrap some emery cloth around a bolt and make the hole in the housing a little bigger. Bob's Automobilia sells handles for $18 each. Be sure to grease the hole before assembly. You can buy new handles and get the switch operational if the housing is not too overgrown. Next year when you decide to rebuild the housing, you can use the levers in the new housing. Check the operation of the levers each month as they could start to get tight and you would want to remove them before it is too late. Hugh
  8. Mike, There are a lot of bad vacuum tanks out there. The lid is pot metal. I would expect there are rings available. Consider calling 518-374-5078 I have one in another tank that I may be able to get out for dimensional purposes, but easier if you can find one from someone. Also, test the 2 valves in the lid. Use the vent tube in each connection. Use teflon paste on the threads. blow on or suck on the vent tube and see if the valves are seating. Hugh
  9. William, I am currently going thru my switches. I have rebuilt several of the switch lever sections, so this should help you. More to come on rebuilding and restoring the terminal backing plate. I do have a switch unit that I may part with, and maybe an old lever arm. We can PM regarding what I have. If you follow this procedure, it should help you get the switch back to working like it it is supposed to, as I wrote it so you could follow the orientation of the internal parts for assembly if all the parts were loose. Basically page 3 is what you need. Your best long term approach is to purchase 2 new switch levers and a new housing and build the switch up from your remaining parts. Hugh
  10. One more item. The lid only goes on one way - unless it has been put on incorrectly. The vent valve has a hole further out in the bolt pattern. There are 8 bolts, but 9 holes in the bolt circle. There is one hole between the holes on the lid and the tank and the gasket. The extra holes all need to match up when assembled. Hugh
  11. Michael, I wonder if your tubing is on the correct threaded hole in the top. The atmospheric vent is the threaded fitting closest to the edge. This has the brass ring under the threaded connection to provide a seat for the vent pipe. This valve is like a car valve. It seats in the down stroke. The vacuum fitting is closer in to the center of the top. It has a needle and seat like a carburetor. It seals on the up stroke of the needle. There is no ring under the threaded connection on the top. This is the threaded connection closest to the lid center is the one that connects to the intake manifold. Hugh
  12. William, This is what your gas gauge nozzle should look like. Perhaps the nozzle you have has been replaced and or installed the wrong way. Regarding gauge faces, These originally were very faintly etched. The only one available that I know if is about $235 and I show it above. Hugh
  13. William, You could try holding the float rod thru the fill nozzle, but I am not sure if you can reach it. You could also try assembling "the stack" of gaskets and glass, and then lightly hold it down while tightening the knurl nut. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the glass. I am reposting my tech note on the gauge installation, but I think I may have posted this before. Hugh