Hubert_25-25

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About Hubert_25-25

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  • Birthday 02/11/1960

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  1. Carl, The 21" wheel swap is what people did when 22" tires were no longer available. They took wheels and tires from 1926 to 1928 Buick Standard cars and put them on their 1925 cars. This was not Buick doing that. This was owners trying to keep their cars on the road. 1922 is the first year for balloon tires, and 22" size were only used on Pierce Arrow and Buick and a few small makers for 1925 only. That is why the original 22" wheels and parts are so hard to find. My car was registered by the engine number with the Department of Motor Vehicles in Texas. But official paperwork like yours from a museum should use the chassis number. The chassis plate is in the left front wheel opening attached on the side of the frame by rivets. It is near where the steering arm comes out thru the frame. We would really like to know what that chassis tag number is. You could use a piece of paper and do a rubbing of it. Hugh
  2. Carl, I don't know what information they gave regarding proof that the car was an S model. In the photo above, there is a lot of space between the rear of the tub, and the spare tire. The above photo looks like a Master model 55 Sports Touring to me. Attached is a 1924 Buick Model 55 photo (red car) and a 1925 model 55 (green). The Master sport touring were 128" wheelbase. The model 45 Master touring was on 120" wheelbase. The rear fender does seem to be further back on the sport models. You would need the longer wheelbase for the trunk rack. I also have this list of models. It shows the 1925 Buick 25S having the regular 114 3/8" wheelbase. If the 25S really used the 120" wheelbase, it would be interesting to know how the drive train was set up. You have no dual spare or trunk rack. We do struggle with what a 25S model really is. We can tell you that all regular touring in 1925 are Brewster Green or Black. The S is gray, but color is easy to change. If you looked behind the data plate on the fire wall, or the steering column support, you may find some original paint. So 501 of the Sport Roadster as well. Is the assumption that the sport model definition is the space for the luggage rack between the body and the spare tires? Hugh
  3. Carl, To begin with, lets start with the ID tag on the firewall. Larry saw this at the auction. It is stamped with 25, and then the S is engraved from what I understand. It would not have come that way. The S would have been stamped as well. I am curious as to what they describe that would make it a 25S. Only 651 S models made. I will look and see if I have any other information. Here is a little info on the 25S, and even that I am not sure if the frame size change is a correct statement. Doubtful you have a 120" wheelbase. In this photo, it does show a Master drive train since it has 6 rear wheel nuts and not the 12 that a Standard would have. Hugh
  4. Hi Marianne, That is a beautiful and rare Buick. Thanks for the photos. Once you have the clutch out, you can inspect the parts. I will email you 2 procedures. One on how to install the clutch which will also help with the removal. Another on relining the clutch discs. My recommendation is to order the (non asbestos) clutch linings from the US as these are already a proven good disc. I do not know if he will ship to Australia, so ask. That would be from Industrial Brake and Supply in Walton Kentucky USA. sales@indbrake.com I think you could also try to find someone in Australia that could make these. Use my dimensional drawings and get an estimate. The original are wide webbing with brass fibers formed into a circle, but they fail at the seam. These discs are much improved. For the steel driven discs, I have not made these, but I do have drawings and a way to have these made for you. You could make these locally, or industrial brake and supply could make. Whoever makes them will need a spider hub to build them correctly. I could mail a hub to kentucky and you could pay for the shipping and return if you had them make these discs. I was going to have some of these metal discs made, but Morgan Wright did me a solid and sent me a disc that worked. I had bought a few other clutches, but I kept getting bad metal discs in them. Hugh
  5. Please answer the following. Is your car a 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder? This eludes to the numbers of plates you will need. Have you inspected the clutch discs. The tabs need to be inspected for wear as too much wear and the tabs need to be repaired or the entire disc replaced. Clutch Driven Discs. The clutch driven discs are all steel with no rivet holes in them. They must be flat and the friction areas cannot be pitted, as this will put excessive wear on the friction material. Most people do not know the condition of these as they do not know how to pull the clutch apart to inspect. Sometimes the clutch gets wet and the friction material holds moisture, and this ruins the clutch driven discs. I did get a price to have these made by the person that made the friction discs. You could discuss having him make these, or you could make these local. You will need to send them the clutch spider hub if you want a good part made. I received a quote of $50 each for 10 items. Not sure of his price for smaller quantities. Same person that makes the clutch friction discs. Clutch Drive Discs. The clutch drive discs hold the friction material via rivets. These metal discs must be flat, but they can have a little pitting in them. They merely need to support the friction material. See this link and contact Industrial Brake and Supply. They can make parts and friction discs. Contact me if you need a spider hub shipped to them if you are not in the USA.. Hugh
  6. Carl, Can you post some pictures please. Also photos of your 25S. Always trying to learn more and we have very few photos of 25S models. Thank you, Hugh
  7. Are you looking for the metal plates or the friction discs? Hugh
  8. I have a rebuild procedure for that if you want to go thru it yourself. Please post a picture of your car and some notes about it on the Buick Pre War Technical forum. Hugh
  9. Use a modern timing light and power it using any 12 volt source (jumper wires from a car battery or use an alarm battery). Clip it on #1, advance the timing at the steering wheel, and you should see the flashes on the 17 mark on the flywheel. Vacuum gauges are around $20 on Amazon. It would be interesting to know what you get while cranking. Also be sure to hold the throttle wide open when cranking and using starting fluid if you really want to pull it into the engine and not just the carburetor. Hugh
  10. You want laminated safety glass for the front windshield and tempered glass for the side and rear windows. That is how it is done today. The font stays together and the side and rear glass shatter on impact. Make basic drawings and bid to several glass shops. There are no shortcuts. Minimum is the windshield replacement. Hugh
  11. I agree with JV, Also, buy a digital micrometer. They are around $25 these days. You will use it more than you know. Thread gauges are cheap too. I feel that you do not really know the ID of the hole. Look up tap sizes and you can figure out what is the next best size for the hole. Then buy a fine thread tap on Ebay and look at bolt depot.com or Albany county fasteners for slotted round head brass screws. Buy a tee handle for the tap. Get star washers for the screw size you are purchasing. Nothing sacred about an old odd ball thread. You can put a good modern thread into it.
  12. Ben, Do you know if your frame was drilled for Gabriel Snubbers? These are an early version of a shock absorber. These came on the expensive Buicks, but the frame was already drilled for them on all cars in 1925. I have no idea when the practice started. They may have only been on the front to start. By 1927 they were on all 4 wheels on a 1927 Standard. I am working on rebuilding a set for my 1925 Standard. It made a world of difference when I put shock absorbers on a Model A Ford. The old tires had flat spots too. It was not much fun to drive until we made these 2 improvements. The fact that 20-25MPH is all you feel comfortable doing is troubling. You should be able to do 35-40 MPH. - I agree with all that is written above. - My shop manual says to not grease the leaf springs. I think due to no shock absorbers, they have to work as dampeners too. - My rear springs are stiff to bounce, but the front springs are more difficult to bounce. Get a buddy and work each corner together to feel if you are getting movement. It will still be squeaky and you will hear a lot of pops with your open car, but you should observe some travel. If your motor is not in, you will need to wait on this. - Put your best rims and tires on the front. - Consider going thru the steering box. Mine needed to be completely gone thru, but I have a lot of confidence that it is in good shape now. Attached is a link to the procedure. Hugh https://forums.aaca.org/topic/318656-1921-touring-steering-question/?tab=comments#comment-1810311 Hugh
  13. I feel Por 15 is a top coat. I would prime and paint as suggested by trini. Then wipe it with fine steel wool just to lightly roughen the surface. Then apply Por 15. Por 15 is a rubberized coating. If you do not give it a good surface prep, it will peel right off like latex paint. Also, I have never been real fond of rustoleum. It seems like more of an oil based paint. My preference is 2 part epoxy primer and then acrylic enamel paint. That is what all the body shops will use on bare steel. The Por 15 will provide some protection from rock chips as it has a little flex in it. Hugh
  14. Thanks for posting these added photos. It also shows the difference in the running board trim that the larger 6 cylinder cars had compared to the 4 cylinder and Standard models. At the back of the running board, the smaller cars used an end binding plate. On the larger cars, the trim was mitered to resemble a picture frame. For those that do not know - this is a 1924-51A. The rare early Brougham with the oval rear back side windows and landau bars. The most expensive car in Buicks line up. That is a real interesting step plate and I have not seen that before. It would not surprise me if that was a Brougham specific item.
  15. Brice, Coker is good, and for 1 tube you can use them or any of the following. I shopped between Coker, Lucas, and Universal Tire during my purchase for 5 tires, tubes, and flaps. There was a significant savings when I compared the 3 of them. I gave all 3 the same list of parts I needed. Shipping made a difference too to the bottom line, so it depends on where you are located relative to their shop. I also thought Universal had a better flap as it was specific for my rim size and not generic. I also asked about DOT codes and all 3 offered the same date code for 3 year old tires that I was buying new. Keep in mind that my tires are a 1 year only size. The 1st year for Balloon tires and 22" rims were also only offered on Buick and Pierce Arrow and a few smaller known marques. Not a lot of demand for these. Grateful that they still make them. I kept pretty rough "rollers" on the car and I forced myself to delay the purchase of new tires until the car was ready to hit the road. Coker made his mark by buying the old tire molds around the world before they were sold for scrap. Hugh