Hubert_25-25

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Hubert_25-25 last won the day on July 10 2019

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  1. Andy, Ben provided a link to a water pump rebuilding procedure. I have replaced the original procedure with one dated 11-5-19. You will want to use the replacement document as there have been significant updates to the procedure. Hugh
  2. If that were a Buick transmission, I believe it would say so on the side. On the mid 20s' Buick, the engine is supported at 3 points. At the front cross member, and the bell housing supports the back of the engine on each side. The transmission is held up by the bell housing. Without the bell housing, the transmission is only held by the torque ball and torque tube to the rear axle. This appears to have a support for the transmission. The rear axle design looks like a design used earlier than a 1925 by Buick. That transmission is 2 halves, and in 1925, it had a steel rear axle cover on the rear like a conventional rear axle. That chassis is also straight and does not have the "bump up" for the rear of the body, or the big steel plate at the back of the frame. Photo is a 1925 Buick Standard.
  3. There was glue used in the wood frame during assembly. I believe several sections were assembled and glued to be very rigid, and then the metal was installed over the rigid structure. I have a touring car and like many, the rain came in as the top and the rest of the car degraded. There are pieces that were definitely glued together and other places that were not. The glue did not hold up well with moisture. For example. The sills are made from 3 pieces - tongue and glued together. The wood piece that goes over the rear axle was glued to the top side of this sill, and the rear most board was glued to this. I do know that the door frames were glued together before fitting with wood. The doors are very weak when the glue breaks and that is when you see doors that are not pulling closed at the bottom when the top of the door is closed. Some of these parts like the doors are glued with the bottom "in further than flush with the door" so that the door always touches at the bottom first before the latch secures it. There are also places where the pieces should not be glued together. This is a snipet from my files showing how the body wood is assembled. The first 2 photos shows a splice that I made into the sill that clearly shows the glued assembly of the sills. In this case the sills were made from 3 long pieces and glued together to prevent warping. The reason I indicate gluing some pieces together first and then adding the screws later is because Epoxy is 100 times the glue of the day. If the Epoxy gets on the screws and cures, the screws will never come out. When using Epoxy, I glue and then add the screws after the glue has cured. Hugh
  4. Marty, Put a vacuum cleaner nozzle over the lock cylinder and use a large sewing needle. FYI, I have a "Large Sewing needle" that the thread end is wrapped in duct tape. It is a couple inches long and about 1" of the needle is exposed. I use this for a lot of things. While running the vacuum cleaner, Insert the needle into the key hole. You should be able to break up any dirt or determine if a key is actually broken off inside. If there is no key, it should be able to be inserted about an inch. Once you think it is cleaned out, then you can add some WD-40. - If there is a broken key inside, then a wide screwdriver should provide the leverage to turn the lock. The broken key should be pushing the pins in. Work it back and forth. - If there is no key in the hole, you should see that the needle will push the lock pins back, and they should spring return. There are at least 4 if not 6 tumblers in the lock. Work each one slow and easy starting from the top. Don't push it in so far that it will not spring back as you need that lubrication to make it all operate smoothly. One more item to do first. Take a small wire brush and clean around the lock barrel while vacuuming. Put WD-40 down the sides of the lock barrel. Consider putting a small hose clamp or duct tape on the lock barrel near the top. If the key moves, and the barrel goes all the way down, it will be nearly impossible to pull the barrell back up since things have not really been cleaned up. The long spring that will push the barrel up if there is not a lot of dirt in the parts. As long as the barrel is still high enough above the surface of the transmission cover, you can still grip it with channel locks. Hugh
  5. I would stick with the 6 volt. Save some energy and put some LED bulbs in if you like. There is enough capacity in the system for the CB and GPS. Use a 6 to 12 volt step up transformer as 12 volts is nice to have in the car. Make that feed a cigarette lighter outlet, then get a 2 to 1 splitter and you have 2 ports for 12 volts. I would also suggest a red top 6 volt Optima battery as a good battery to have.
  6. I like the glue the www.rotdoctor.com sells. 2 part epoxy. It is slow to set which I like. I also like his clear epoxy sealer for coating all the old wood. Also consider getting Q cells if you want to mix it with the epoxy. It makes a great filler that you can put tacks in. Q cells are by another company. They use it for repairing surf boards. I have used Max GPE with good results as well. Hugh
  7. Marty, Mine was a Yale and www.jessersclassickeys.com made a key from the numbers on a Yale blank and it worked. You may have a briggs and stratton key (as I see a B in a box on your cylinder) and did they get the numbers right? I would certainly put some "Lockease" into the key slot, Put a pair of vise grips on the key, and Gently (don't break the key)-work it back and forth and ensure it is all the way in the barrel. It took a bit of this action before my new key actually loosened the barrel. I also put penetrating lube around the barrel as that was pretty dry as well. Your lock looks very dry and surface rusted in place. There is a slotted screw in the side of the lock cylinder housing. Even if you remove the screw from the side, that will not free the lock cylinder. The slot in the lock barrel fits with the screw. The screw just limits the up and down motion of the lock plunger so that you can remove the lock or not raise the lock assembly too far during normal usage. I would talk to a lock smith to see if they could get the lock to turn first, especially since you have a key. If you had to drill the lock, you would go in thru one of the 2 holes on the back side of the casting that have plugs. The lower hole is the hole that locks the transmission in the neutral position. The upper hole is to hold the lock up so that it prevents the lock from dropping into the transmission. The pin has to be extended so that you can remove the key in either the up or down position. Consider also taking the top off the transmission if you had to, so that you could send it or take it to a lock smith that could get the tumbler to spin. Drilling out the lock would be my last resort. Please let us know if a locksmith can pick this lock and get it to spin. Hugh
  8. Mark, I sent you a note as well. This is how you remove the shifter lever from the transmission cover in 1925. In your case, I would drill out the 2 brass rivets on the name tag, and then see if you can get the cover to move up. I think you need to expose the shifting pin. Do you have a page from the book of parts that shows the shifter parts. Hugh
  9. The 1925 Standard parts book only lists 1 steering wheel 182365, so they were all black spokes in 1925. The 1927 steering wheel is a different number. The parts book looks like the spokes are not black.
  10. In 1925, the Standard touring steering wheel spokes were black. Hugh
  11. Rod, I am in the process of trying to put snubbers on my 1925 Buick Standard. 1) I would think that if you did not have all 4 snubbers, they would be more effective to have the 2 on the front of the car due to the mass. Maybe you have all 4? 2) The cost of replacement webbing is around $100 per snubber. There is around 6 feet of webbing material in that case. The replacement webbing is being made by sewing 2 pieces of cowl webbing together. 3) They fail at the outer end. I am going to see if I can remove 1 wrap of the webbing and get the snubber to work. The front has less travel than the rear. Maybe I can get away with at least not needing to replace all the webbing. 4) It is odd to see your snubber inside the frame, I thought these went outside. On the front they are on the outside of the frame. Hugh
  12. Thank you for posting all the great photos. That is such a rare car and in such good unrestored condition. What a time capsule. Looking forward to seeing your progress.
  13. All the old stuff is removed rapidly in China. The air pollution is pretty bad in China. They have banned all gas powered scooters in the cities and people have replaced them with electric scooters. Lots of electric scooters. To save energy 9 out of 10 will drive at night with their lights off so you have to be extra vigilant because you can't hear them either. Most of the taxis are on CNG. And when you think about driving, most of these drivers are recent drivers and have not driven their entire adult lives like us.
  14. I still like the RJ&L wire sets. I love the look of them. I did install a new set - and my old set only had 400 miles on it. Black 9mm. I am keeping it as a spare as I think it is still a good set. I got his last set from the black 9mm wire that he had in stock (after Hershey), so new sets would be using a new lot number of wire I would suspect. I wonder what they do to test the quality of the wire insulation. I love the spark plug end connection, but the other end is a common poor quality connector. To do it right, I would solder the brass ends to the cap end of the wire. You can see the arcing that I had. Maybe at least just solder the coil wire end as it see a lot more firing. This was the coil wire connector at the cap end and you can see where it was arcing at the point that pushes into the insulation. It removed the brass pointer. A good fix is to cut the insulation back about 1/4" and push the wire thru the triangular hole, then solder it onto the face of the connector. Also reposting a link of what I installed to keep any oil away from the wires that are behind the spark plug cover. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/337137-mid-20s-buick-keeping-plug-wires-clean/?tab=comments#comment-1965345
  15. Bill, That is really cool that you have those items. Let me remind people that Buick is hugely successful in China, and the Chinese love their Buicks. There is just very little history left in China. The cultural revolution was from 1966-76. The moto was to remove the Four Olds. The Four Olds were: Old Customs, Old Culture, Old Habits, and Old Ideas. Hugh