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Hubert_25-25 last won the day on July 10 2019

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About Hubert_25-25

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  • Birthday 02/11/1960

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  1. Ken, The 1925 Buick Standard Marvel Carburetor is a 1 year only carburetor. Your metering pin and metering linkage drawings are incorrect. I have 3 of these carburetors. The metering pin should have only a 2 on it. The metering link is stamped 168-4. Attached are the 2 drawings. Hugh
  2. 21" is 1926 to 1928 Buick. Master rims are 1/2" wider than Standard rims. If I were a betting man, they are likely Standard rims and someone has installed Model A tires on them because they would be plentiful and cheap. They could be Master rims as well though. Measure the width of the demountable rim. The 4" Standard Rim is actually 3 7/8" and the 4 1/2" Master rim is 4 3/8". Hugh
  3. Attached is a link to Gates hoses. They are listed by ID, length, and other end ID if this changes. You may be able to find a hose with 2 different ID sizes that fits your application. That would work better than what you are planning to do with sealant. https://assets.gates.com/content/dam/gates/home/resources/resource-library/catalogs/gates-molded-coolant-hose-id-guide_web.pdf
  4. Ken, There are 3 copper/asbestos gaskets that came from Olsons. This style does not normally need gasket compound if the surfaces are cleaned up real well with a razor blade. Given the location at the exhaust manifold, the sealant would need to be a high heat type. Not sure what that would be. I did not use any sealants, but I did clean the mating surfaces up real well. The vertical blanking plate is against the exhaust manifold, then the gasket, then the vertical riser. The horizontal blanking plate is against the carburetor, then the gasket on the top side of the blank
  5. Ken, It is important to have all 3 blanking plates installed that are in my slide presentation. You may have a pin hole leak in the tubing that is in the vertical section of the heat riser above the carburetor. That vertical riser has to be blanked off on both ends. Against the carburetor and on the exhaust manifold. The round blanking plate is just to keep heat out of the S shaped tube. I made the tail clearance on my carburetor just so light should pass. I thought .009 to .017 seemed rather large, but now I am second guessing the Marvel engineer. I bet I am abo
  6. Jim, 1928 was the last year listed in my book with a multitude of colors listed for hubcaps that matched the body colors. At some point I imagine black was the color for all the hub caps. Plated surfaces and even bare aluminum is not going to hold paint for very long without proper adhesion techniques like roughing the surface and using primers. They did neither of those with these older cars. Some of this paint just had to survive the showroom floor. I am under the impression that none of these came unpainted as there is not a part number available to order them unpainted. Hugh
  7. Jim, I do not know when they first started using primers, but that helped with paint durability and sticking to a surface. The mid 20's Buick headlight, tail, and cowl light rings were also painted black on top of the nickel - around the edge but you only find a few owners that know this detail and paint them as original. This period advertisement shows the bezel paint. The other thing to note is that in the large Buick book of parts, it lists the hubcaps by color and year. Dealers stocked or ordered colored hubcaps. They did not paint them at the dealerships. The photo of this book pa
  8. Is that cap aluminum or brass. Buick switched to aluminum in 1926. Brass is 1925 and earlier. The field around the Buick text is body color. The wheel was typically painted body color, except the demountable rim was plated or black.
  9. Rod, This will get you started. Can anyone provide the dimensions from a Buick Master Hand crank so that they are available as this question comes up frequently and I will add those dimensions to my drawing. Hugh
  10. Not Mine. All parts are Buick Master or 1924-6. Radiator and shell is 1928. The Cowl has the aluminum band between the hood and cowl so it would be 1924 - 6 or 1925 Master. The front fenders would be 1924 - 6 or 1925 Master due to the raised center. The Cowl is from a Touring or Roadster as it has the larger hole behind the cowl light hole for the windshield post. Likely little or no rust. located in Sanger CA. Contact is Kyle Sliger. PM me if you do not reach him thru his facebook marketplace ad. Hugh https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/105573366142264/search/?
  11. Ken, Thanks for getting another project of mine off the shelf and onto the car. This is my replacement for the air horn. The metal can that Larry showed in the advertisement is what was installed as standard equipment in 1926 when Buick went to triple filters (Air, oil, and fuel). I used a piece of .025 aluminum sheetmetal to make an adapter. Then I bought a UNI 601 1 3/4" x 2 3/4" x 6" air filter. Around $15. These have an internal wire spring to prevent collapsing. The hose clamp barely fits, but it does, and I can still get to the dip stick. With a little more effort, a per
  12. Dave, Can you provide a photo of each side of the engine. That may help with an ID of the year. The serial numbers for a 1923 start with 826497, so the body tag may indicate 1923. Not sure if that is a real ID tag. The car should have a engine tag and a frame tag. The engine tags start in 1922 with 767948 and 1923 starts with 890666. The serial and engine tags do not match. If you want to do the minimal, drain the oil and drop the pan. Clean out the sludge (which there will be). Put some oil in each cylinder thru the spark plug hole. From underneath, Wipe the
  13. Ken, Here are some replacement numbers for your air valve adjuster. Master Standard 1.194 = 1.150 1.535 = 1.765 in the center, and 1.600 along the wall. 1.920 overall length for both .383 = .105 .824 = 1.040 .906 = .865 So the air valve adjuster is the same overall length, but the Standard has more threads on the barrel. The depth is what is important then. The standard has a taper deep inside to keep the spring in the middle. So the overall depth of 1.765 is .23 inches deeper than your 1.535. For a Standard, the air valve is app
  14. Ken, This cut away drawing is pretty accurate to how the 3/4 floating axle functions. Standards have a 3/4 floating axle and Masters have a full floating axle so there are some differences. Buick used a plug instead of a grease zerk in the side of the hub. The grease would enter the hub, and it has to pass over a metal wall to get to the roller bearing. The axle shaft would have been installed dry on the hub. In the effort to put grease in using a zerk fitting, you can in the process get grease between the hub and the taper. This is not good. On the rear wheels, the hubcap sh
  15. Ken, At this point I think you overfilled it. Just keep an eye on the level after a couple of drives. It should begin to maintain itself at 1" below the fill hole. Keep the oil away from the brake bands as once oil gets on them it cannot be removed and the lining has to be replaced. Glad that you were able to go on a drive. Hugh
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