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About Hubert_25-25

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  • Birthday 02/11/1960

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    Lake Jackson TX

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  1. Hubert_25-25

    Seat springs and frame reconditioning

    My seat springs and frame need some reconditioning. I don't think they were completely left out in the weather, but they were recovered at one time and the interior was leather and it is an open car. There is still a little paint in a few areas on some of the springs. So I have this spring assembly and I am afraid if I were to just recover it, it would squeak a lot. Looking for some advise on the best and cheapest way to clean up the frame and spring mechanism, and perhaps give it a little coating to preserve it. If I took it to a sandblast yard, that may work. It won't do a good job between the wire windings, so not sure if a very effective process. Maybe one of the brush on metal converters or Ospho would be best, but I would think that I should remove the bulk of the rust as well. I thought about putting a plastic liner down and setting it in water and doing some electrolysis method? It is not a small part. Any thoughts or experience is appreciated. Thank you Hugh
  2. Hubert_25-25

    New shop- now let's restore the 27 Buick

    Lenny, Airline Plating in Houston TX did my shell and my motometer parts. Attached are my notes on going thru the radiator and Shell. Also a technical article on going thru the motometer. When you are done you should think about installing a motometer antitheft device like they used in the past. Hugh
  3. Hubert_25-25

    1922-28 Buick Standard Front wheel bearing & lip seal

    This is an update on my front wheels and bearings. I have not been able to locate wheel bearings. I did find one NOS inner wheel bearing, but none for the outer wheel bearings. Fortunately I only needed one inner bearing and the conversion to a roller bearing here requires 2 bushings would need to be made . One place in Europe claimed to have bearings, but then I found in a search that this bearing house was a scam. So not too difficult to replace the front outer ball bearings with roller bearings. The old bearings races did take some persuasion to remove. These photos show the tools used to replace the bearings, and a drawing of the bushing you will need to have made for the outer bearings. I also installed Lip seals instead of using felt here, but the felt works fine in this application. I did have to use 2 wraps of electrical tape to make the lip seal fit snugly so that I could hammer it in. Hugh
  4. Hubert_25-25

    1920 Buick K45 project Pittsburgh PA craigslist

    He should say "stored on blocks" too, so that the potential buyers know the extra care taken to preserve the old girl.
  5. Hubert_25-25

    New shop- now let's restore the 27 Buick

    I envy your shop. The sheet metal looks real good to start with. You should have a really nice car when you are done with it. Take lots of pictures as you go and be sure to keep us posted on the progress. Hugh
  6. Hubert_25-25

    Tar Strips under Aprons and Hood sill

    Don, Brad, and Larry, Thanks for the advise. I am going to see if I can find one of your tar paper suggestions at Lowes. I think Buick did lay some of the painted surfaces together during initial assembly. I know that they did not use any fender welting in 1925. Not sure when the practice of using fender welting was started. I did buy some "asphalt treated webbing" for on top of the chassis, but I like the idea of using tar paper or the concrete barrier strip as substitute on top of the chassis because this is more like the original material, and also it will really flatten out if it needs to. Wanting something that will also not hold water. The other thing I was going to use is 3M strip caulk between the fenders and the body. We used to use this to make circles around tail light lenses and bolts to keep water out of the trunk, and you could remove the light later without any issues. I think this would be good as well between the hood sills and the front top of the running board aprons. The nice thing about strip caulk is that it will protect the paint and leave a very small gap between the parts. It won't hold water and it is easy to clean at the edge of the parts if it squeezes that far and you don't know it's there. Hugh
  7. Hubert_25-25

    LeRoi Engine For Sale

    My friend has this LeRoi engine that he would like to find a home for. He is cleaning out his machine shop. I know there are very few of these. I do not know what year this is or what it would have been on. Hugh
  8. Hubert_25-25

    keeping grease and oil out of tapered axles

    Thank you for all your good advise. It is interesting where Buick put the location of the grease fitting for the rear hub. It is shown in the drawing. The first time it is used it puts grease up against the shaft and hub. My suggestion is to not use that grease fitting, but to pull the wheel when it needs a re-grease and put the grease on the bearing where it belongs. I did think about putting a little silicone bead back on the shaft where I would think the inside end of the hub would be when installed. That would ensure that no oil or grease can move into the taper. I just did not want to glue the 2 parts together. And then I would have also managed to get a small amount of silicone on the mating surface which is something that I wanted to avoid. I will just assemble it dry and tight. Hugh
  9. I have a friend with a machine shop near Houston Texas and he is wondering if there is any interest in this 1949 Ford truck engine and drive train. Hugh
  10. Hubert_25-25

    1941 Cadillac engine for sale

    I have a friend in town who owns a machine shop. A person brought in a 1941 Cadillac engine years ago. After some time he decided to make a street rod and abandoned the engine block and heads at the machine shop. Wondering if there is any interest in this motor. Best Regards, Hugh
  11. So I've been reading - Now that will get you in trouble. What I read was to not grease the tapered shaft on a tapered hub. I am not sure if that applies to tapered hubs with keyways, but I think so and here is the set up. This is a 1925 Buick Standard. This is a "3/4 floating axle". The Master uses a "full floating" axle which is a little different. There is no seal to keep the rear axle oil or wheel bearing grease out of the hub. Attached is a drawing and 2 photos. So I have degreased the hub and the shaft, but I am not sure if that is really doing me any good. Is that the way this should be installed. The shop manual does not say to use grease. Thank you Hugh
  12. Hubert_25-25

    1922 Oil pan removal

    Mark, The mesh I have is made from .005 brass wire. It is 32 x38 wires per inch. The mesh size opening looks like .021 x .021. Strange that I can't seem to find a mesh like this. I think what you have found would work well. Hugh
  13. Hubert_25-25

    Spark Plug Wires

    I may just put heat shrink on the coil wire holder as suggested, but I did find this photo which shows the clip on a low mileage 1925 Standard model 28.
  14. Buick Pinstriped the wooden spoke wheels. Their pinstripe method for wood wheels with demountable rims appeared to be the spokes and the fellow. I don't know when this practice started and when it ended. Attached is how I pinstriped my wheels. I was easier to do this since I had the wheels off the car. Hugh