nzwookie

Hi guys. I have replaced the felt seals in my sheeder on my 25-25. I drilled out spot welds and welded the halves together as just couldn't weasel in my felt seals. I notice on the parts list there is also a felt seal for hub. Is this correct and necessary as all I could see was old material around bearing housing . Thanks!

I have a complete assm if still looking!

Hi all. Down the track I will need to find new wheels for my 25 standard. Slim chance of finding 22" x 6" tyres right? I am in New Zealand and still have plenty of tread on the old Lester white boys but they are perishing and the wooden spokes shrunk back on the rear wheels (managed to repair myself using water). Any advice appreciated. Pete.

Hi guys. I know this post is a bit like our cars and getting on a bit, but I have just had both rear wheels off my 25-25 to clean the diff oil off my brakes etc, I also failed my warrant of fitness due to a front wheel bearing. I tried a few bearing suppliers and one tracked two assemblies down from Australia! (NOS) I have just installed them in one wheel only. They cost me NZ$550 so not cheap but pretty lucky to find these!

Yes car is driveable. The taper was basically welded over time so took huge pressure to remove. Someone in the past had tried to remove wheel and probably stripped the factory hub threads and braised on a brass unit for the hub cap!

Sold now?

I think if I get a new float and spring I should be good. The teflon tape definitely made a big difference as was sucking air through there. Cheers Herbert.

Having had the carb on my 25 standard tourer off the car a dozen times with original float (dries and resealed) I was still having mixture problems..until I used Teflon tape on the main adjuster brass piece. I also found an original spring under the front seat! The old spring had been stretched. Vola! She's running great now with just a little choke. I also drilled main jet to 1.5mm..might try 1.6mm next.

Thanks Guys. Someone must have had a hard time in the past as the hub has brass threads brazed on. I had the correct puller but it actually stripped the brass threads, that is when I had to use 10 ton puller with bearing puller on hub. The metals had welded themselves together over the years!

I've had a hard time removing my rear right wheel. I ended up using à 10 ton puller with a bearing puller on the hub. Finally it came off when left under high pressure. I hope I haven't bent the axle! I need a new nut and waster and also the correct hub puller has damaged the brass threads on the hub.