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  1. I confirmed what Jim said about cam locks in the side of the block, here is a Buick drawing section view from 26april1930 showing cam dowel locations and shouldering. Very cool!
  2. Welcome, I am pretty new to the forum as well. You will find many great resources and very helpful folks here. I think you will find the Buick engineering quite impressive, especially from a Ford POV. I grew up with mostly Fords, and I appreciate their disposable 'dime-a-dozen' assembly line approach, but there are quite a few things I have discovered in my short time of owning a 1930s Buick that impress me vs Ford. It will be interesting to hear if you find the same. Looking forward to your pics!
  3. That makes sense, as I looked closer, they are all along the entire pass side of the block and line up with the cam bearings. Who would've thought! I also found out what the flat casting is for just above the starter...looking up under the block it is an alternate location for a fuel pump (maybe same or similar as the 50 series). Inside the block there is a concentric recess hole about 1" diameter directly in line with the cam lobe for the fuel pump (60 series has the pushrod on the driver side) and a recessed thinner wall casting around the hole to accept pump mounting screws. Makes me wonder if engineers were considering either side of the block for fuel pump location.
  4. What series is the motor, I may be looking for 60 series, 272 cuin with 3-1/16" pistons. If its a 60 series, is it still available?
  5. Nice to be a part of the 32-67 club too
  6. I vote for evaporust when possible. I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't try it. But...make sure you clean it off while still liquid because it dries kind of like shellac after if evaporates.
  7. I found seeds in my 1932-67 water jacket cover area by cylinder #8 by the firewall.
  8. I have a 32-67, do you know if any dims on my sedan will be helpful? The car is fully assembled, so I don't have much access to the wood, but I can take a few dims under dash if it will help.
  9. I am sorry you have to navigate non-ethanol that way Mr. DuVal. Those of us in the upper midwest have a dichotomy with corn everywhere (heavy ethanol usage in the local pumps), but we also have a very heavy availability and use of non-oxy fuels. Since you brought up the topic of non-automobile, I use non-oxy in all my lawn and garden equipment, and after a heavy -20F winter, I can go to my chainsaw or mower in the spring and after only a few pull-starts, the motors rev to life. No carb work, no cleaning, just using the equipment when non-oxy is used. Its sad to say, but the ethanol proponents probably didn't consider quality of life for those of us focused on getting things done and enjoying life vs those who like to spend springtime tearing apart carbs and fuel systems in an effort to clean out the gummy winter ethanol residue (if it wasn't proactively run dry in the fall to prep for winter). I am personally not interested in unnecessary maintenance, and I applaud those who have time and enjoy fuel system maintenance, kudos to you, indeed! I am however very jealous of your VA winters and the nearness to the ocean!
  10. I always vote to use non-oxy (little to no ethanol content) when possible (and it is legal to use non-oxy in most US states despite the fact that non-oxy has less road tax than conventional gas). Ethanol is scientifically proven to be a bad/poor fuel for certain polymers and other materials commonly used in old and new cars. It also is unstable and gels when not stirred or mixed, and it lacks the latent heat energy value of crude-based fuel. Less joules per gallon in ethanol gas means you pay more for gas per mile, and if you do care about mpg, then that might be important as well.
  11. My hunch is that buick engineers were planning for a future something related to the oil system (filter maybe?) and they made sandcasts with some contingency ideas. I really have no idea, but it seems like something I would do for futureproofing, especially considering how much effort goes into the sandcasting process, and buick mgmt maybe wouldnt allow engineers to modify the design in the next revision, so the engineers added as much as possible with the 31-32 engines. But then more changes happened anyway in 1933....maybe a good reminder we dont know what the future holds, ha.
  12. It is the same function as a water hammer snubber for home water piping. It absorbs fuel line shock related to rapid changes in fuel demand. It can be located on the pump as part of the upper casting, or on the pump outlet line. Be sure to inspect the valve inside, and note the spring is very delicate and has a low spring force so it can be as responsive as possible to rapid changes to the fuel demand. Its low maintenance, especially if you run non oxy fuel. Inspect more often if you are running reg unleaded with gummy ethanol.
  13. I am trying to figure out why the 60 series 272 engine has this flat casting pad just above the starter motor, and why there are two small horizontal blind holes below the water pump location. Anyone have a guess? 50 series has fuel pump on pass side, so maybe buick was reusing casting form specs?
  14. Any chance you have, or onow where to find a 31-32 buick piston for the 272 engine?
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